Many years ago I thought this was the best speaker system for surround sound, but it may be different today. I always have had a hard time hearing the high end sounds and thought these were a very bright speaker if that's the right term for it which made them appeal to me. I always seem to have to crank up the volume to hear the highs and my wife was always telling me it's too loud. A local guy is selling a new system for $650 which I think is a pretty good deal, I think it's a series 3 because it has a powered subwoofer and the center channel speaker is a double cube, but I may be wrong. Do you think I should go for it or is there another system I should look at in that price range. Reviews seem to be mixed but that was based on the system costing $1000.
Opinion on Bose Acoutimass 10 series III
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Just a follow up to my question. They are willing to sell them for $550. Do you think the Bose would be the best sytem in that price range or what would you recommend? Please don't suggest a system in the $800 and up range since I am not into audio as some on this forum. I guess you can call me a noob when it comes to audio.
Joined
·
296 Posts
No, we would call you tone deaf.
![]()
No, we would call you tone deaf.
+1
campy, check out this thread. May help ya a bit......... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1050622
I apologize on behalf of AVS for that dickwad response from kansashick. Most here can be pretty darn helpful without being a jerk.
+1
campy, check out this thread. May help ya a bit......... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1050622
I apologize on behalf of AVS for that dickwad response from kansashick. Most here can be pretty darn helpful without being a jerk.
Joined
·
296 Posts
Give me a break, it was a JOKE! (note the smiley)
Give me a break, it was a JOKE! (note the smiley)
Joined
·
1,038 Posts
Well..if you want the truth..you can do much better than Bose when building surround sound system..
It's true today, and it's true 10+ years ago when Bose first introduced Acoutimass & Lifestyle series..
With Bose, you are paying mostly for the brand name & the small speaker appeal, never for pure sound & performance..
That been said, you are buying the system for you, not for members here..so if you like Bose & how it sounds, then it might be right for you..
It's true today, and it's true 10+ years ago when Bose first introduced Acoutimass & Lifestyle series..
With Bose, you are paying mostly for the brand name & the small speaker appeal, never for pure sound & performance..
That been said, you are buying the system for you, not for members here..so if you like Bose & how it sounds, then it might be right for you..
I know I will be the one that will have to make the decision, but if anyone can suggest another sysytem that is better sounding than the Bose I will look at them. I just remember them sounding good to me for home theater but to be honest I don't remember how they sound with music. Right now I have B&W 602 for the fronts and center and I find I have to play them very loud to hear softer sounds, and I remember the Bose to be very good in that regard. It may very well be my hearing but I am not ready for hearing aid. I just thought $550 for a new acoustimass 10 system was pretty good.
It's a GREAT price for that system. It's 50% less than the cheapest quote here on the internet.
You may want to check out that link I put up and look at the other systems within that price range and go out and start auditioning, but at that price, especially being that you liked them so much before, they may be your best bet.
You may want to check out that link I put up and look at the other systems within that price range and go out and start auditioning, but at that price, especially being that you liked them so much before, they may be your best bet.
Joined
·
296 Posts
Your 602's are pretty nice speakers. I seriously doubt that you will find the Bose to be an improvement. See this link: http://www.audioxpress.com/reviews/media/AX201DA.pdf
I think that there is little chance that the Bose will give you performance that comes close to the 602's. The 602 has a 7" kevlar bass / midrange and a 1" metal tweeter using the nautilus technology.
I think that there is little chance that the Bose will give you performance that comes close to the 602's. The 602 has a 7" kevlar bass / midrange and a 1" metal tweeter using the nautilus technology.
I wonder if there is something about the Bose that allow for soft noises/sounds to be heard well without blowing someone away when their is an explosion in the very next scene of a movie. Not that I've experienced this (from Bose or another) but I'm not sure what other reasons people have for not being able to hear the quiet stuff other than having the volume turned down so that crashes/explosions are ridiculously loud. I guess the other culprit could be the room or the speaker layout, either not having the speakers at (or pointed) ear level or having big cancellation + gain room issues (large peaks & valleys).
Good points, jnickrand.
Another possibility could be that when you were driving your Bose's, you somehow engaged DRC (dynamic reduction also known as light night listening control) that would limit the dynamics which would do exactly what you heard. And then when you hooked up you're 602's, you disengaged the circuit. Possibility, no?
Another possibility could be that when you were driving your Bose's, you somehow engaged DRC (dynamic reduction also known as light night listening control) that would limit the dynamics which would do exactly what you heard. And then when you hooked up you're 602's, you disengaged the circuit. Possibility, no?
Joined
·
2,653 Posts
JC.... the one thing about Bose Acoutimass.... that they do very well and the epicenter of their sucess really.... is they do a wonderful job of nailing the FR that our ears are the most sensative to. But, that's about it. So, do they sound great?
Sure they do.... as long as your happy hearing about 10% of the available recorded information. For example.... don't ever confuse their separate "box" as a "sub" woofer. There is nothing sub about it. Even calling it a bass module is being awfully kind.
It says a lot to me when as a dealer, you must set up your Bose demo display area TOTALLY apart from any other speaker demonstration area or you lose the "privelage" of selling Bose. The reason for that? They don't WANT any side by side comparisons of their products with anything else. Otherwise, the gig is up so to speak.
So, bottom line.... IMHO, they do a very decent job producing sound in a very narrow frequency band. One that our ears is most sensative to. But, their ability as a system to produce full range sound from 10 Khz down to 10 Hz or even a more modest 20 Khz - 20 Hz.... is non-existant.
So, really.... you need to decide where your priorities are with regard to the kind of sound you are looking for in your HT system.
Sure they do.... as long as your happy hearing about 10% of the available recorded information. For example.... don't ever confuse their separate "box" as a "sub" woofer. There is nothing sub about it. Even calling it a bass module is being awfully kind.
It says a lot to me when as a dealer, you must set up your Bose demo display area TOTALLY apart from any other speaker demonstration area or you lose the "privelage" of selling Bose. The reason for that? They don't WANT any side by side comparisons of their products with anything else. Otherwise, the gig is up so to speak.
So, bottom line.... IMHO, they do a very decent job producing sound in a very narrow frequency band. One that our ears is most sensative to. But, their ability as a system to produce full range sound from 10 Khz down to 10 Hz or even a more modest 20 Khz - 20 Hz.... is non-existant.
So, really.... you need to decide where your priorities are with regard to the kind of sound you are looking for in your HT system.
Joined
·
2,653 Posts
To try and answer your questions in order....
1.) Obviously, all "subwoofers" are different in their design and performance. Typically however, their ability to go deep (down to as low as 10 Hz or even farther) with any authority or output that low (say anything above 95 db's) increases with the amount you pay for the sub. IOW, a higher end sub (custom designed driver, thick heavily braced cabinet, custom designed plate amp etc) will play louder, at lower frequency levels, without distortion that a cheaply constructed sub (cheap driver, thin cabinet with little to no bracing, crappy plate amp etc).
The little Bose bass module has an 8" bass driver in a small box that struggles to get down to 35 - 40 Hz (if it even gets that far) with any kind of authority. There are tons and tons of "real" subwoofers that can play down to 25-30 Hz with some punch at prices WAY less than Bose.
2.) I'm not a dealer.... and only YOU can decide what is better for YOU by actually auditioning and listening with your own ears. I highly recommend keeping a journal and use the same reference material when auditioning speakers. You typically have a very limited auditory memory. But, if you write it down and be very descriptive of exactly what you hear, it will help you when you look back through your journal and compare what you've already heard to what you are currently listening to.
3.) The grab the remote to turn the volume up and down is a VERY common problem with HT's. Sometimes it has to do with a poorly recorded soundtrack on the movie (why in the world some engineers crank the volume of the "background" music so damn high is beyond me). And, positioning could be a small portion of the problem. However, the usual culprit of this problem, is a poor center channel. Again, as you get into higher end speakers, this becomes less and less of a problem.
For example, one center channel that is legendary in it's ability to make the remote grabbing a thing of the past, is AV123's RSC-200 or "Bigfoot" as it's comonly known. But, that center channel speaker costs what you have for your entire budget. My own AUDES Sentral center channel is also very, VERY good. But again, it lists for $599.
In some situations, the center channel is so bad, you are much better off, and will get a lot better sound from the middle.... if you shut the thing off entirely and go phantom center. Just select no center channel speaker on your receivers set up menu and it will divide the center channel information between the R/L mains.
4.) Well, those that know me, know how I feel about reading manufacturer's "specs." I've NEVER seen a spec on a piece of paper or a computer screen that I can actually hear. And, even if the specs were measured correctly (some manufacturers are very suspect at this), the speakers aren't going to measure the same in your own room anyway.... so I feel they are basically pointless. Except for possibly a VERY rudimentary idea of what a speaker may be capable of. But that's about it IMHO.
As for speakers being hooked up to high end components, I find that most dealers tend to hook up matching gear. While components will have less of an over all impact on the sound of your system than the speakers will, you usually won't find dealers using entry level components hooked up to high end speakers. Just as they typically wouldn't connect budget speakers to a Denon AVR 5808.
In the end, it's always best to make your final audition in your own home, on your own gear, with your own ears.
With your more limited budget, I might suggest you start out with spending that amount on a pair of R/L mains. Then when the budget allows, add a decent sub, then a center channel speaker and finally the surrounds. By doing this, you will end up with a MUCH nicer sounding system (hopefully), than blowing your entire budget on a complete package to start off with that is underwhelming and doesn't give you any real satisfaction. One, which you'll be itching to replace in very short order, and have to spend that amount and more all over again anyway.
To try and answer your questions in order....
1.) Obviously, all "subwoofers" are different in their design and performance. Typically however, their ability to go deep (down to as low as 10 Hz or even farther) with any authority or output that low (say anything above 95 db's) increases with the amount you pay for the sub. IOW, a higher end sub (custom designed driver, thick heavily braced cabinet, custom designed plate amp etc) will play louder, at lower frequency levels, without distortion that a cheaply constructed sub (cheap driver, thin cabinet with little to no bracing, crappy plate amp etc).
The little Bose bass module has an 8" bass driver in a small box that struggles to get down to 35 - 40 Hz (if it even gets that far) with any kind of authority. There are tons and tons of "real" subwoofers that can play down to 25-30 Hz with some punch at prices WAY less than Bose.
2.) I'm not a dealer.... and only YOU can decide what is better for YOU by actually auditioning and listening with your own ears. I highly recommend keeping a journal and use the same reference material when auditioning speakers. You typically have a very limited auditory memory. But, if you write it down and be very descriptive of exactly what you hear, it will help you when you look back through your journal and compare what you've already heard to what you are currently listening to.
3.) The grab the remote to turn the volume up and down is a VERY common problem with HT's. Sometimes it has to do with a poorly recorded soundtrack on the movie (why in the world some engineers crank the volume of the "background" music so damn high is beyond me). And, positioning could be a small portion of the problem. However, the usual culprit of this problem, is a poor center channel. Again, as you get into higher end speakers, this becomes less and less of a problem.
For example, one center channel that is legendary in it's ability to make the remote grabbing a thing of the past, is AV123's RSC-200 or "Bigfoot" as it's comonly known. But, that center channel speaker costs what you have for your entire budget. My own AUDES Sentral center channel is also very, VERY good. But again, it lists for $599.
In some situations, the center channel is so bad, you are much better off, and will get a lot better sound from the middle.... if you shut the thing off entirely and go phantom center. Just select no center channel speaker on your receivers set up menu and it will divide the center channel information between the R/L mains.
4.) Well, those that know me, know how I feel about reading manufacturer's "specs." I've NEVER seen a spec on a piece of paper or a computer screen that I can actually hear. And, even if the specs were measured correctly (some manufacturers are very suspect at this), the speakers aren't going to measure the same in your own room anyway.... so I feel they are basically pointless. Except for possibly a VERY rudimentary idea of what a speaker may be capable of. But that's about it IMHO.
As for speakers being hooked up to high end components, I find that most dealers tend to hook up matching gear. While components will have less of an over all impact on the sound of your system than the speakers will, you usually won't find dealers using entry level components hooked up to high end speakers. Just as they typically wouldn't connect budget speakers to a Denon AVR 5808.
In the end, it's always best to make your final audition in your own home, on your own gear, with your own ears.
With your more limited budget, I might suggest you start out with spending that amount on a pair of R/L mains. Then when the budget allows, add a decent sub, then a center channel speaker and finally the surrounds. By doing this, you will end up with a MUCH nicer sounding system (hopefully), than blowing your entire budget on a complete package to start off with that is underwhelming and doesn't give you any real satisfaction. One, which you'll be itching to replace in very short order, and have to spend that amount and more all over again anyway.
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!