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Do you prefer the white or black housing for the Optoma CinemaX P1/P2?

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A couple of questions for this group: 1. Furniture, we are looking into Salamander Designs, anyone have any experience? Or what furniture would you recommend? 2. HDR settings?
Furniture setup for these UST projectors really is a PITA. The dinguses at these projector companies could really make our lives easier by adding a couple of speaker posts and allowing passive override of the onboard speakers to use as a center channel in a real 5.1/7.1 setup. Otherwise we have to figure out how to fit a center speaker into the mix, with a projector low to the floor and extended 2-3 feet from the front wall.


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Hi guys,

As an update I gave up on not using the geometric correction. My wall is wobbly and the screen itself is not really straight (really unhappy with my Hivilux screen), so getting things straight without using the software adjustment is... well... impossible.

I know for a fact that it's not a P2 issue since I manage a perfectly aligned 120" image in my bedroom's wall. But in the living room it's just impossible. So I'm stuck with 100+ms of input lag :confused:

I have also tested Dynamic Black in setting 1extensively, and it is really unusable due to how visible it is when it kicks in. I even see the pumping when the subtitles kick in during a dark scene, although this happens very rarely. I think the added luminosity from the subtitles makes it turn off, and then once the subtitles disappear DB kicks in again (my kids still need subtitles btw). I'm not sure why some people don't notice it, but it really ruins the experience for me. So it's always off.

Would I still get the P2 knowing this? Well, it would have made my decision harder to be honest, and I would probably have leaned more towards the Epson LS500. But despite not being able to use DB I'm really happy with the image quality and with how super quiet it is. It's become a great living room addition, everyone is thoroughly enjoying it, and guests are wowed at the image size and picture quality.

By the way, those of you planning for a tailor made furniture might want to first install the projector and then take measurements. My P2 sends the image somewhat to the right, so it is never centered, and from what I've read it's often the case. Also, the height and distance to the wall is not exactly the same as mentioned in the manual, it can vary from unit to unit. And since every millimetre makes a difference, planning ahead of receiving the projector is risky at best.

Actually, adjusting the screen height is the most painful thing about it if you have a fixed screen that doesn't allow for some flexibility (as is the case with my Hivilux, which I really do not recommend).
 

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Hi guys,

As an update I gave up on not using the geometric correction. My wall is wobbly and the screen itself is not really straight (really unhappy with my Hivilux screen), so getting things straight without using the software adjustment is... well... impossible.

By the way, those of you planning for a tailor made furniture might want to first install the projector and then take measurements. My P2 sends the image somewhat to the right, so it is never centered, and from what I've read it's often the case. Also, the height and distance to the wall is not exactly the same as mentioned in the manual, it can vary from unit to unit. And since every millimetre makes a difference, planning ahead of receiving the projector is risky at best.
Highly recommend the Grandview Dynamique screen line. Pairs really well with the projector. In regards to furniture, for now, I'm just using a cheap console from wayfair. It's not very nice, and I don't plan on keeping it forever, just until I find something better. I'll probably have to remount the screen, but that's not a big deal. Really disappointed with the furniture choices out there.
 

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Hi guys,

As an update I gave up on not using the geometric correction. My wall is wobbly and the screen itself is not really straight (really unhappy with my Hivilux screen), so getting things straight without using the software adjustment is... well... impossible.

I know for a fact that it's not a P2 issue since I manage a perfectly aligned 120" image in my bedroom's wall. But in the living room it's just impossible. So I'm stuck with 100+ms of input lag :confused:

I have also tested Dynamic Black in setting 1extensively, and it is really unusable due to how visible it is when it kicks in. I even see the pumping when the subtitles kick in during a dark scene, although this happens very rarely. I think the added luminosity from the subtitles makes it turn off, and then once the subtitles disappear DB kicks in again (my kids still need subtitles btw). I'm not sure why some people don't notice it, but it really ruins the experience for me. So it's always off.

Would I still get the P2 knowing this? Well, it would have made my decision harder to be honest, and I would probably have leaned more towards the Epson LS500. But despite not being able to use DB I'm really happy with the image quality and with how super quiet it is. It's become a great living room addition, everyone is thoroughly enjoying it, and guests are wowed at the image size and picture quality.

By the way, those of you planning for a tailor made furniture might want to first install the projector and then take measurements. My P2 sends the image somewhat to the right, so it is never centered, and from what I've read it's often the case. Also, the height and distance to the wall is not exactly the same as mentioned in the manual, it can vary from unit to unit. And since every millimetre makes a difference, planning ahead of receiving the projector is risky at best.

Actually, adjusting the screen height is the most painful thing about it if you have a fixed screen that doesn't allow for some flexibility (as is the case with my Hivilux, which I really do not recommend).
I have a temporary stand setup, which is 18.5" high and I was able to get the projector to be reasonably centered within the screen, but there are approximately 1" to 1.5" black borders around the projector and I can't get rid of the bottom border by lowering the projector so it means I need to get a 17" or lower stand, which was my expectation anyway. I have to say that the black bands serve almost as a decorate frame (which I didn't install on my GrandView because I gave up after 2 hours trying to make the pieces fit and it looks perfectly fine to my wife and me without the decorative frame). I was able to get rid of the "trapezoid" effect almost entirely and that was my main intent. I didn't feel the need to use geometric correction at all at this point. We'll see how close I get with the permanent stand we get.

Regarding Dynamic Black, we found it unwatchable and switched back to the Brightness 100% setting. The screen would lighten and darken in an unnatural manner and when darkened, the red tint of the faces would increase. I'm using the calibration settings on ProjectorCentral.com and am quite happy with them so far.

The only problem I'm left with is that occassionally when starting a new Blu Ray Disc, the image would be brighter on the right side of the screen compared to the left side and this break is exactly in the middle of the screen (almost as if there's a vertical line in the exact middle of the screen). Then somehow, by fiddling with the 3D settings (and I'm not watching 3D), it would correct itself and be fine for the entire viewing. I don't know if this is the HDMI cable (which I can't determine if it's ultra-fast or not) or the EDID 1.4 setting (I can't seem to get the 2.0 setting to work, which may be an indicator of the cable).
 

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@technomaget I've just found the calibration settings on ProjectorCentral for the P2, do you know if its possible to save multiple calibration settings?

I've just received my P2 a few days agoI'll have to play around with the settings , its interesting that Bright Room SDR has lower brightness than Dark Room SDR.. I cant imagine brightness set to -14 is going to be any good, when im finding -2 already very very dim .... waiting on an ALR which i know will help a lot, but a sample of XY's ALR is still quite dim
 

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@technomaget I've just found the calibration settings on ProjectorCentral for the P2, do you know if its possible to save multiple calibration settings?

I've just received my P2 a few days agoI'll have to play around with the settings , its interesting that Bright Room SDR has lower brightness than Dark Room SDR.. I cant imagine brightness set to -14 is going to be any good, when im finding -2 already very very dim .... waiting on an ALR which i know will help a lot, but a sample of XY's ALR is still quite dim
Yes, it saves the settings for each Display Mode (i.e. Reference, Cinema, HDR). I just watched the Avatar Blu Ray with the Dark Room SDR settings and it was absolutely stunning; and this was a blu-ray, not a 4k blu-ray. I did watch it on the Grandview UST 120" screen in a dark room, so I think the screen will help a lot. Regarding the settings, I can't really explain why the Bright Room SDR is much lower, so the only thing I can think of is that the Cinema mode is much brighter to begin with so you're comparing apples to oranges when switching modes. I have not tried the Bright Room SDR mode yet, but I may have an opportunity to do that tomorrow, but I have to say that the projector is very bright on the UST screen, even with some ambient light coming in.
 

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Hi.
Today I was asked to install "driver update" on my brand new P2 and after autorestart my projector falls into three red lights blinking state (lamp, temp, power) with no image and no way to interact with it.
Does anybody know what the problem is and how can I fix it?
 

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Hi.
Today I was asked to install "driver update" on my brand new P2 and after autorestart my projector falls into three red lights blinking state (lamp, temp, power) with no image and no way to interact with it.
Does anybody know what the problem is and how can I fix it?
That's weird. I don't even see that combination of lights in the manual. The closest is fan failed with red flashing power and red flashing temp, but there's nothing listed for red flashing Lamp.

Did you try unplugging it completely, waiting 30 seconds and then replugging it?
 

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I have a temporary stand setup, which is 18.5" high and I was able to get the projector to be reasonably centered within the screen, but there are approximately 1" to 1.5" black borders around the projector and I can't get rid of the bottom border by lowering the projector so it means I need to get a 17" or lower stand, which was my expectation anyway. I have to say that the black bands serve almost as a decorate frame (which I didn't install on my GrandView because I gave up after 2 hours trying to make the pieces fit and it looks perfectly fine to my wife and me without the decorative frame). I was able to get rid of the "trapezoid" effect almost entirely and that was my main intent. I didn't feel the need to use geometric correction at all at this point. We'll see how close I get with the permanent stand we get.

Regarding Dynamic Black, we found it unwatchable and switched back to the Brightness 100% setting. The screen would lighten and darken in an unnatural manner and when darkened, the red tint of the faces would increase. I'm using the calibration settings on ProjectorCentral.com and am quite happy with them so far.

The only problem I'm left with is that occassionally when starting a new Blu Ray Disc, the image would be brighter on the right side of the screen compared to the left side and this break is exactly in the middle of the screen (almost as if there's a vertical line in the exact middle of the screen). Then somehow, by fiddling with the 3D settings (and I'm not watching 3D), it would correct itself and be fine for the entire viewing. I don't know if this is the HDMI cable (which I can't determine if it's ultra-fast or not) or the EDID 1.4 setting (I can't seem to get the 2.0 setting to work, which may be an indicator of the cable).
Thanks for confirming the increase in red tint using DB! I thought I was going crazy :ROFLMAO:

I would definitely try a different HDMI cable to rule that out.

I haven't tried any SDR content for now, but cinema + gamma at 2.4 + power at 100% has been my favorite combo so far for HDR movies in a darkish setting (my living room walls and ceiling are different tones of white so I have a lot of light reflected everywhere even with the lamps off). I also reduced the sharpness to 5. The rest of the settings are unchanged.

By the way, totally unrelated but my Denon AVR has been giving me tons of issues with Spotify Connect since installing the P2. It worked fine with my TV, but now 98% of the time that I launch Spotify on my phone the AVR turns on but there is no sound from the speakers. It's probably ARC related, I just haven't figured out how.
 

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I just did the same firmware update. It should state somewhere on the screen that the lights will blink red for 30 min or so while the update finishes. Don't touch it until it's done. It should automatically just return to the single red light.

Hi.
Today I was asked to install "driver update" on my brand new P2 and after autorestart my projector falls into three red lights blinking state (lamp, temp, power) with no image and no way to interact with it.
Does anybody know what the problem is and how can I fix it?
 

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Thanks for confirming the increase in red tint using DB! I thought I was going crazy :ROFLMAO:

I would definitely try a different HDMI cable to rule that out.

I haven't tried any SDR content for now, but cinema + gamma at 2.4 + power at 100% has been my favorite combo so far for HDR movies in a darkish setting (my living room walls and ceiling are different tones of white so I have a lot of light reflected everywhere even with the lamps off). I also reduced the sharpness to 5. The rest of the settings are unchanged.

By the way, totally unrelated but my Denon AVR has been giving me tons of issues with Spotify Connect since installing the P2. It worked fine with my TV, but now 98% of the time that I launch Spotify on my phone the AVR turns on but there is no sound from the speakers. It's probably ARC related, I just haven't figured out how.
Yes, I figured it was the cable and replaced it with my older thicker gold HDMI cable and the EDID 2.0 setting worked with no problem and I was able to set the HDR settings.
 

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@technomaget I've just found the calibration settings on ProjectorCentral for the P2, do you know if its possible to save multiple calibration settings?

I've just received my P2 a few days agoI'll have to play around with the settings , its interesting that Bright Room SDR has lower brightness than Dark Room SDR.. I cant imagine brightness set to -14 is going to be any good, when im finding -2 already very very dim .... waiting on an ALR which i know will help a lot, but a sample of XY's ALR is still quite dim
@technomaget I've just found the calibration settings on ProjectorCentral for the P2, do you know if its possible to save multiple calibration settings?

I've just received my P2 a few days agoI'll have to play around with the settings , its interesting that Bright Room SDR has lower brightness than Dark Room SDR.. I cant imagine brightness set to -14 is going to be any good, when im finding -2 already very very dim .... waiting on an ALR which i know will help a lot, but a sample of XY's ALR is still quite dim
I think I read somewhere that the P2 does have trouble saving settings. I noticed that today when I switched to the Cinema mode and it didn't retain the settings I set. I'll see if it retains the Reference settings I set before when I return to that later when it gets dark.
 

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I just did the same firmware update. It should state somewhere on the screen that the lights will blink red for 30 min or so while the update finishes. Don't touch it until it's done. It should automatically just return to the single red light.
Thanks David, you are right. Updated successfuly after 30 minutes waiting.
Optoma guys should definitely update the P2 manual with this LED blinking state.
 

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Discussion Starter #335
Do they have a marketing website I could check out? Seems like their website's pretty bare bones.
wow, they used to have a pretty good website. I have no idea what's going on with it right now.
www.aegisav.com
 

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I just did the same firmware update. It should state somewhere on the screen that the lights will blink red for 30 min or so while the update finishes. Don't touch it until it's done. It should automatically just return to the single red light.
Yeah, there absolutely should have been an on screen warning.
 

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It shouldn't be dim. Make sure you don't have the screen material upside down.

@technomaget I've just found the calibration settings on ProjectorCentral for the P2, do you know if its possible to save multiple calibration settings?

I've just received my P2 a few days agoI'll have to play around with the settings , its interesting that Bright Room SDR has lower brightness than Dark Room SDR.. I cant imagine brightness set to -14 is going to be any good, when im finding -2 already very very dim .... waiting on an ALR which i know will help a lot, but a sample of XY's ALR is still quite dim
 

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Hey guys, I'm finding it nearly impossible to focus the upper corners simultaneously. If i get one in focus the other goes out of focus. Would tilting the screen downward slightly, help with this? We are shooting onto a 120" CLR screen. The image looks very crisp except for one of the upper corners, depending on which one is not in focus. Any tips? I'm ready to send the unit back for a replacement.
 

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Hey guys, I'm finding it nearly impossible to focus the upper corners simultaneously. If i get one in focus the other goes out of focus. Would tilting the screen downward slightly, help with this? We are shooting onto a 120" CLR screen. The image looks very crisp except for one of the upper corners, depending on which one is not in focus. Any tips? I'm ready to send the unit back for a replacement.
Hi Michael, I have the same thing and from what I could read it's relatively common. I seem to recall the Projector Central review also mentioning a slight loss of focus at the corners.

In my case the right upper corner is impossible to get 100% in focus, however since it's a relatively small area and the difference in focus isn't big, during actual viewing it is never disturbing (even when I tried looking for it).

I am sitting at almost 4m from the screen though, so if you are considerably closer it might be more visible (I guess?).

Regarding tilting the screen, I have tried doing that to fix some other issues I encountered and I didn't find it helpful.
 

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Hi Michael, I have the same thing and from what I could read it's relatively common. I seem to recall the Projector Central review also mentioning a slight loss of focus at the corners.

In my case the right upper corner is impossible to get 100% in focus, however since it's a relatively small area and the difference in focus isn't big, during actual viewing it is never disturbing (even when I tried looking for it).

I am sitting at almost 4m from the screen though, so if you are considerably closer it might be more visible (I guess?).

Regarding tilting the screen, I have tried doing that to fix some other issues I encountered and I didn't find it helpful.
Hey thanks for the info, would you mind positing a picture of your geometric correction screen? With the green grid? That is where we can really see the distortion. I'm wondering if ours is worse than normal. It's blurry to the point it ruins the picture in the area.
 
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