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Do you prefer the white or black housing for the Optoma CinemaX P1/P2?

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Got the AEON CLR 120" screen up today... wow what a great picture. Funny enough I installed it upside down at first... that was disconcerting. But after the flip. Love the picture! This is from the P1. This image is of a twitch stream I pulled up simply to get something with some color on it. The blur you see is due to the camera and not the screen itself. I'm setting up the P2 to test now and will post some images once it's configured.

View attachment 3039545
I had the same problem with my 120" Aeon CLR Elite Screen and I have to hang it upside down with the Elite Screen logo hanging upside down on the left upper corner. I am too lazy to fix it. I did follow the installation instruction video too. LOL.
 

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Grandview Dynamique

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Grandview Dynamique is .4 gain and not for most people to put it lightly. You're sacrificing 50% of the possible nits for a 50% lower black floor versus a .8 gain screen.

With a P2 You're likely going to see 130 calibrated nits with a 120" screen at .8. With .4 it's only 65 nits. You can get an idea what this would look like by selecting 50% brightness.

Foot Lambert calculator:

Foot Lambert to nits:

I'd only recommend .4 gain CLR in a light controlled room ( Where you can benefit most from a lower black floor.) AND and IF no HDR or 3D usage.

@USTGuy advice is skewed and based on his 100 inch screen of which he does not even utilize the entire screen. Even if he was he'd be getting 90 calibrated nits and if closer to 90 inches he's getting 113 nits which is closer to what you'd get with a .8 gain at 120 inches.

Bottom line: .8 is more versatile and will suit most people using a UST.
 

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Grandview Dynamique is .4 gain and not for most people to put it lightly. You're sacrificing 50% of the possible nits for a 50% lower black floor versus a .8 gain screen.

With a P2 You're likely going to see 130 calibrated nits with a 120" screen at .8. With .4 it's only 65 nits. You can get an idea what this would look like by selecting 50% brightness.

Foot Lambert calculator:

Foot Lambert to nits:

I'd only recommend .4 gain CLR in a light controlled room ( Where you can benefit most from a lower black floor.) AND and IF no HDR or 3D usage.

@USTGuy advice is skewed and based on his 100 inch screen of which he does not even utilize the entire screen. Even if he was he'd be getting 90 calibrated nits and if closer to 90 inches he's getting 113 nits which is closer to what you'd get with a .8 gain at 120 inches.

Bottom line: .8 is more versatile and will suit most people using a UST.
I went from 1.1 screen to Grandview 0.4 and I can't agree with what you say. But then again I'm no expert so I only go by what I see

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I’ve had the p2 with the 120” Grandview screen up now for a week or so. It’s OK, but I’m a little disappointed. This is my 4th projector, my last was a Sony 1080p in a light controlled room. i moved and did not have a place for a theater room, so I placed this in the family room. While there is no direct light on the screen, during the day its kind of hard to watch. Definatly not a TV replacement.

it is better than the Sony it replaced, just expected a little better. Maybe I should have gone with a smaller screen. Also my Grandville screen had a few marks in it, I’m probably the only one that will notice, but at $1600 I would expect better.
It's probably your screen gain that is at fault here.
 

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It's probably your screen gain that is at fault here.
I had it projecting on a light gray wall before the screen showed up. It is definatly better than that.

Its not bad, I think that the hype that it is a TV replacement is a little to much. Like I said, it’s OK, just not wow during the day. We are going to put up some better blinds and that should help. It looks good in the evening.
 

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I would never consider this or any other projector for bright room viewing, that's what TVs are for.
Even UST ALR screen manufacturers usually admit that although their screen material offers a slight edge for daytime viewing it is still not even close to TV quality for daytime viewing

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I’m streaming using a fire stick. Don’t know if that makes a difference. It didn’t work using the cable box and I didn’t bother trying to get it to work.
 

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I guess the description was incorrect, as it said it was for UST. What screen would you recommend?
from the website description "Projector Screen is compatible with Short-Throw and Standard Throw Projectors ". The key phrase is the "short-throw", but the P2 is a ULTRA short throw projector. For UST, you need the specific type screen with microscope saw-tooth layer that blocks light from above. Unfortunately, because of the special design for the ultra short throw, this type of screens doesn't do well to block ambient light from other angles, which make UST during daytime viewing become pointless -- meaning the standard throw projector paired with good ALR screen will do a better job for ambient light environment.
 

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Ordered the P2 yesterday to replace my 3yr old Xiaomi Mi laser UST. Am also interested in recommended calibration settings.
Have had mine a day now. Still plenty of tweaking to do but so far so good. Am using it with my 100” 0.8 gain PET ALR from XY Screen (same screen I had with my previous Xiaomi Mi Laser UST). Am impressed. Did some basic calibration just based on my eye and personal judgement (waiting for some recommended calibration settings from the professionals!). The Hobbit in 3D? Yes, excellent with deeper blacks than the Xiaomi. Then tried the 4K of Lawrence of Arabia from my Oppo 203. Completely blown away by that. This to be fair is my first experience of HDR 4K so I guess I’d be fairly easily pleased. But nonetheless the quality is so good. What I am really loving is the P2’s handling of 24Hz frame rate material. I have PureMotion turned off and the effect is gorgeous. Any of the PureMotion settings make films to ‘soapy’ in my opinion.
 

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How was the Optoma ALR101e? Saw it went on sale for $499. It seems to go on/off sale quite often.
I like it. It is way better than a regular screen during the daytime. I can enjoy it during the day but yeah P2 performs better at night. They SmartFIT worked great. Not sure if I am losing resolution by doing the smartfit. I didn’t notice any loss of quality. I really like P2 and ALR101e. My experience is limited to only few projectors but I like UST for my setup. The speaker is ok and definitely usable without a sound bar.
 

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I would never consider this or any other projector for bright room viewing, that's what TVs are for.
Even UST ALR screen manufacturers usually admit that although their screen material offers a slight edge for daytime viewing it is still not even close to TV quality for daytime viewing

For me it is enjoyable watching 100 inches in the living room even with lots of light with P2 and ALR101e. I have 60” 4K tv In the same room but the 100 inches does make a huge difference in enjoyability. Based on what I see, ALR101E makes a huge difference. It is definitely worth the $500. My next purchase will be ALR 120”. Hopefully price will be in same range sometime in the future.

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from the website description "Projector Screen is compatible with Short-Throw and Standard Throw Projectors ". The key phrase is the "short-throw", but the P2 is a ULTRA short throw projector. For UST, you need the specific type screen with microscope saw-tooth layer that blocks light from above. Unfortunately, because of the special design for the ultra short throw, this type of screens doesn't do well to block ambient light from other angles, which make UST during daytime viewing become pointless -- meaning the standard throw projector paired with good ALR screen will do a better job for ambient light environment.
I thought the ALR screen designed for UST mostly reflects light coming from below only.
 

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Discussion Starter #157
Also curios to know why P2 is still cheeper given that it's a new unit and the P1 is no longer in production? I would think that they would drop the P1 price down to clear stock and then only sell the P2. It's a normal strategy to have the old model cheeper than the new one!. Perhaps the quality of materials in the P1 is better afterall ?
P1's were pretty much sold out before the P2 was announced. Optoma stopped shipping P1s a couple weeks before they dropped the news on the P2, likely to ensure that they were sold out to prevent the price drop.
You may find a dealer with P1s in stock however looking to discount.
 

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Discussion Starter #158
Key word launched. It was originally announced for a lower price but due to tariffs it was raised at the last minute. This is in no way Optoma's fault, in fact the price hike wasn't even enough to cover the tariffs so that was more money lost.

I think the second price height was a combo of tariffs and the virus. Optima didn't want to jack up the price too much for people who had pre-ordered (speculation). I'm sure extra precautions that needed to be taking for manufacturing also added to the cost plus the number of units Optima could manufacture.

All in all it seems like the P2 is cheaper to manufacture than the P1 (once again pure speculation). I think the smaller eight segment color wheel is probably cheaper to make. Even though it's better on paper. I would like to compare with my own eyes but that's not happening anytime soon. There's no way switching one HDMI 2.0 port to 1.4 cut cost by much. To my knowledge those are the only two differences besides the color.

The tariffs haven't gone away so something about the P2 was more profitable to Optoma, hence the quick switch over. I can't think of any other reason why optimum did this. They should have given two months notice to let people know. I'm wondering if they were even making money on the P1. It's not like Optoma is LG or other UST projector manufacturers that have other products to help with the cost. They only make projectors.

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I think they learned a lot from their run with the P1 (except preferred housing color) and have ramped up manufacturing according to the proven demand to drive costs down. It is also likely less profitable from a % standpoint for most dealers than the P1 was as well, again to keep the price point lower.
 
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