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Hello everyone, I think too much time has passed, we need a PETITION to make pressure on Optoma and have a decent support and firmware updates for this kind of expensive videoprojectors. I am owner, and these bugs are annoying me each day.

So I've just created this petition on change.org here => http://chng.it/vz9cVn54QY

I copy this message in the others main sites of owners that I know ( reddit, and passionhomecinema uhz65ust topic comments )

We need 5 signatures for this petition to be public : please join if your are interested, and share the petition link.

If >20 signatures, I will send it to Optoma for action.
I have cut Optoma a little slack. Tariff's right before release and Optoma didn't even raise the price to match the tariff's so auto loss out of the gate. Then covid. Optoma makes projectors and some screens. To my knowledge they do not have the resources like LG, Samsung, Sony, ect.. like appliances and all other electronics so I get it. With that said the P2 getting firmware software BEFORE the P1. If they stop putting out updates while continuing to release for the P2 I'll sign.

Optoma was obviously losing money on the P1. It's really the only explanation from announcing the P2 and cancelling the P1 without even notifying authorized retailers who still had orders to fulfill. I could be wrong but I think the smaller six segment color will is cheaper even though it produces better colors.

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Hello, another subject for compatible HDMI receiver : who have a HDMI receiver that works well with his Optoma P1/UHZ65UST ? I would like to change my old Yamaha RX-V640 (no hdmi) to a new one.

Question 1 : What receiver that works well / do not works with this projector ?
Question 2 : Does HDMI Auto LIP Sync works ? ( I'm currently adding audio delay with Kodi on my HTPC )

My main usage :

Thanks :)
The HDFury Key fixed ALL dropouts. there's something up with the EDID on this projector. Even with the minimal EDID correction on the key model I never had any snow or dropouts again ever and I still haven't till this day. I would look at the arcana as it does LLDV. I actually upgraded to the diva so I have an AVR key that was used for 2 weeks to sell if you're interested




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Does your receiver have ARC, or better off eARC. The HDFury Key fixed ALL dropouts. there's something up with the EDID on this projector. Even with the minimal EDID correction on the key model I never had any snow or dropouts again ever and I still haven't till this day. I would look at the arcana as it does LLDV. I actually upgraded to the diva so I have an AVR key that was used for 2 weeks to sell if you're interested




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Additionally almost all HDMI 2.1 receivers on the market today have issues with either HDR or VRR due to the HDMI chipset. there are only like one or two models that do it right that don't cost 10k. Save some money and buy an HDMI 2.0 b receiver, preferably with eARC. You'll save yourself a lot of headaches and money. If you need Atmos you really do need the right speakers to get the full effect. Most audiophiles recommend a 10.2 setup and while I think that's way over a kill I do believe some ceiling speakers would be best for the object oriented sound

HomeTheaterReview's AV Receiver Buyer's Guide (November 2020 Update)

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1: Honestly, i think as long as your receiver supports HDR / HDR Passthrough and is 4k (or higher) capable you cant really go (very) wrong. Chose a receiver that fits your requirements in terms of how many Inputs and what kind of speaker setup you have and what 3D Audio Format you want to use (if at all). I am using a Denon x4400h and there is not much negative to report for my use case. Go with your own requirements and your budget. Also some AVR's are a bit better suited if you also listen to a lot of music, again a question of your needs. If you never plan to drive very large or a lot of speakers, there is usually not that much of a difference between models (i.e Denon 1200 vs. 4200)

2: Mixed bag for me, i noticed lip desync mostly if pure motion is enabled, it was very annoying and most attempts to fix it were only partially successful. I admit i did not spent much time investigating further, i went with disabling pure motion and force source to correct output format - i.e switch so 24h output instead of scaling to 60fps.
Are you sure. Any receiver usi g the Panasonic hdmi 2.1 chipset is fubar'd for gamers, period. There are a few models but they use a different chipset than the Panasonic


If you don't game then it's not an issue if you have a display with EARC or there's other solutions but if you're a gamer it's too much of a compromise to spend that much money on something that simply doesn't work as advertised

After a bit more research it appears the way the PS5 implemented VRR then it still works but the Xbox Series X will not work with pass through you have to use eARC from your TV.

I'm waiting until 2023 when the refresher consoles are out but actually do the HDMI 2.1 spec and all this mess is behind us because we're at a point where displays can't handle the gaming features on these new consoles. Mini LED and another new tech by samsung sound promising but Samsung will probably be coming out with a display in 2023 (QNED) that can do extreme brightness while getting OLED blacks with zero risk of burn in. Now the price could be ridiculous so I'm just going to wait as mini led is seeming like 82 to 3-year solution. Even then it's extremely expensive, go look at the ASUS 32-in monitor. The specs are ridiculous but it's still ridiculously expensive and it's not a gaming monitor. It's geared towards video editing


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Are you sure. Any receiver usi g the Panasonic hdmi 2.1 chipset is fubar'd for gamers, period. There are a few models but they use a different chipset than the Panasonic
No, hence i wrote and recommended to go with the requirements. IIRC the chipset issue you point out is specifically only affecting 4K120, so not all gaming scenarios apply here, talking about future proof or being ready for the newer consoles, there you are right. However this chipset issue affects a lot of AVRs currently so technically the only reasonable recommendation would be "wait for next revisions". However if only light gaming or full-hd is the target for the OP and if he cant or does not want to wait, it really doesn't matter as much.
 

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No, hence i wrote and recommended to go with the requirements. IIRC the chipset issue you point out is specifically only affecting 4K120, so not all gaming scenarios apply here, talking about future proof or being ready for the newer consoles, there you are right. However this chipset issue affects a lot of AVRs currently so technically the only reasonable recommendation would be "wait for next revisions". However if only light gaming or full-hd is the target for the OP and if he cant or does not want to wait, it really doesn't matter as much.
HDMI 2.1 is just a huge mess. Both consoles can't do the full bandwidth. When the first HDMI video cards came out in September that did full bandwidth cost quite a bit more than the series X. I knew there were going to be compromises but that one was big to me. I wish display makers used display port. HDCP is useless and can be ignores various ways. It's waisted money.

I see lawsuits if there aren't already. I saw people complaining that there games didn't look any better on 1080p displays and I get not everyone It is tech savvy but come on. Then complaining that you needed expensive displays. Honestly, Right now a gaming monitor would be the best those are obviously smaller. They figured all this out years ago with PC gaming. AMD and Nvidia worked with game monitor companies to make it work. There is currently one commercial display that can do all the new features (lG CX), obviously not cheap but not crazy expensive. I would really like to see this monitor in person even though it's not a gaming monitor. QNED sounds amazing but I have doubts samsung can pull it off due to them being software control freaks which It's why none of their displays do Dolby Vision. It has to have a dedicated ship in the display to do it and Samsung won't allow it.

Even at this price no HDMI 2.1
ProArt PA32UCX | Monitors | ASUS USA


EDIT: I totally went way off base on this thread so I'm done with my rant. Back to P1
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The HDFury Key fixed ALL dropouts. there's something up with the EDID on this projector. Even with the minimal EDID correction on the key model I never had any snow or dropouts again ever and I still haven't till this day. I would look at the arcana as it does LLDV. I actually upgraded to the diva so I have an AVR key that was used for 2 weeks to sell if you're interested




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Thanks, I didn't knew about these HDFury products. The "dr-hdmi-4k" key seems to be a possible correction if any dropouts bugs are remaining .. after the next firmware that Optoma will send to us, because of the petition :)
 

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Hello everyone, I think too much time has passed, we need a PETITION to make pressure on Optoma and have a decent support and firmware updates for this kind of expensive videoprojectors. I am owner, and these bugs are annoying me each day.

So I've just created this petition on change.org here => http://chng.it/vz9cVn54QY

I copy this message in the others main sites of owners that I know ( reddit, and passionhomecinema uhz65ust topic comments )

We need 5 signatures for this petition to be public : please join if your are interested, and share the petition link.

If >20 signatures, I will send it to Optoma for action.
Hi, I've signed the petition.
I just discovered that Optoma removed the P1 projector from their website.
What kind of after sales support this is?
After releasing a buggy product with promised of firmware upgrades to resolve it and .....boom!!! Bye bye everyone!
 

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Hi everyone, 65 signatures in the petition, it's not a little anymore.

Still waiting for Optoma answers, the support's case numbers are : #00381130 (optoma us/uk) and #00381131 (optoma fr)
Maybe a good news : a new user "Optoma Official" has joined this forum 5 days ago, and wants to get in contact to discuss the issues. I've just answer this account with my contact, to start exchanges. To be continued. 🤞🤞🤞
 

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Hi everyone, 65 signatures in the petition, it's not a little anymore.

Still waiting for Optoma answers, the support's case numbers are : #00381130 (optoma us/uk) and #00381131 (optoma fr)
Do you know if the following issues are addressed in the support case and petition:

1. EDID issues: constant connection issues. Some people have to use HD Fury to correct EDID connection problems. I have this issue all the time.
2. HDR issues associated with Dynamic Black. Image brightness looks great for 30 seconds to a minute and then becomes dull. I've noticed that regular HD content looks brighter and sometimes better than UHD HDR content.
 

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I feel like optoma is big enough and has a reputation in the industry that there is an expectation for them to support their products which is one reason why people paid a premium. I have a VAVA and even with them being a small newcomer to UST projectors have gotten several firmware updates in the last 2 months to improve user experience. It's kind of disappointing IMO if Optoma is prioritizing support for the P2

I have cut Optoma a little slack. Tariff's right before release and Optoma didn't even raise the price to match the tariff's so auto loss out of the gate. Then covid. Optoma makes projectors and some screens. To my knowledge they do not have the resources like LG, Samsung, Sony, ect.. like appliances and all other electronics so I get it. With that said the P2 getting firmware software BEFORE the P1. If they stop putting out updates while continuing to release for the P2 I'll sign.

Optoma was obviously losing money on the P1. It's really the only explanation from announcing the P2 and cancelling the P1 without even notifying authorized retailers who still had orders to fulfill. I could be wrong but I think the smaller six segment color will is cheaper even though it produces better colors.

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Do you know if the following issues are addressed in the support case and petition:

1. EDID issues: constant connection issues. Some people have to use HD Fury to correct EDID connection problems. I have this issue all the time.
2. HDR issues associated with Dynamic Black. Image brightness looks great for 30 seconds to a minute and then becomes dull. I've noticed that regular HD content looks brighter and sometimes better than UHD HDR content.
FYI, they consider #2 expected behavior/working as intended. I requested a 'static black' option - because whatever the setting is the first 30 seconds, always looks better than anything else.
 

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Do you know if the following issues are addressed in the support case and petition:

1. EDID issues: constant connection issues. Some people have to use HD Fury to correct EDID connection problems. I have this issue all the time.
2. HDR issues associated with Dynamic Black. Image brightness looks great for 30 seconds to a minute and then becomes dull. I've noticed that regular HD content looks brighter and sometimes better than UHD HDR content.
Hi,

1. Yes, the HDMI unstability issue is an issue I will talk about. But I don't know how to prove a EDID problem ? Does someone know how to prove that ? For example with a PC or a shield ?
2. Not yet adressed : I know that some reviews of dynamic black show these color problems, and I've noticed that too ( but i don't use dynamic black any more ). I note that issue too.

i've noticed in your signature that you have a Pioneer VSX-LX303 : does it handle automatically the audio delay ( aka "hdmi lip sync" ) ?
 

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Hi,

1. Yes, the HDMI unstability issue is an issue I will talk about. But I don't know how to prove a EDID problem ? Does someone know how to prove that ? For example with a PC or a shield ?
2. Not yet adressed : I know that some reviews of dynamic black show these color problems, and I've noticed that too ( but i don't use dynamic black any more ). I note that issue too.

i've noticed in your signature that you have a Pioneer VSX-LX303 : does it handle automatically the audio delay ( aka "hdmi lip sync" ) ?
I've had some lip sync issues depending on the content and in the beginning it was a problem. This applied to my Nvidia Shield and Blu-Ray Player; now it's pretty good. This has seemed to work for me:

  • Plex content: 23.98Hz
  • Hulu content: 23.98Hz
  • Amazon Prime: 59.94Hz
  • Netflix: 23.98Hz
  • YouTube: 59.94Hz

If I try Amazon or YouTube at 23.98Hz then I have sync issues. But once I start messing with refresh rates is when I start get to HDMI connection issues. I've learned I have to turn on systems in a specific order for it to function correctly. But to fully answer your question, there was sync issues, but they've since been resolved and I didn't have to offset anything on my Pioneer or any other device.
 

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I've had some lip sync issues depending on the content and in the beginning it was a problem. This applied to my Nvidia Shield and Blu-Ray Player; now it's pretty good. This has seemed to work for me:

  • Plex content: 23.98Hz
  • Hulu content: 23.98Hz
  • Amazon Prime: 59.94Hz
  • Netflix: 23.98Hz
  • YouTube: 59.94Hz

If I try Amazon or YouTube at 23.98Hz then I have sync issues. But once I start messing with refresh rates is when I start get to HDMI connection issues. I've learned I have to turn on systems in a specific order for it to function correctly. But to fully answer your question, there was sync issues, but they've since been resolved and I didn't have to offset anything on my Pioneer or any other device.
Have you tried used the shields audio delay? That's what I did, under sound, advanced. Has a bouncing ball so you can adjust. I think I got mine on 8 or 9ms.

As for EDID issues. Yes I had huge issues. I bought a switch with an HDMI audio output for my non arc receiver. Ended up finally buying the HDFury Key as that switch caused more dropouts and snow. Even with their minimal EDID software, not one dropout or issue since then. If you just want to fix EDID, this will do it Dr HDMI 4K | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI

If you have ARC or eARC than I would definitely get the arcana for LLDV (low latency Dolby Vision) as it tricks the 4k player into thinking the P1 or 2 are DV capable, then remaps the color tones to HDR10 in sub 1ms. It still blacks out for a second when switching from SDR to HDR but there is no way around that.

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Got same problem with Pioneer amp and NVIDIA Shield.
Like I said before, same hdmi setting (12 ou 10bit on 4.2.0 @60fps) with my zidoo and BD player are working properly without any drop or snow.
For me snow is only with Shield on 12 bit and drop only on 10 bit.
NVIDIA SHIELD got wrong tone mapping on HDR and switching picture setting (natural, movie....) is doing no change.
It's same with fire TV since the last release and mibox 3. I think it's since Android TV 9.0 and P1 should update about this.
I'm looking for a new VOD box who's not using Android.
Someone got the P1 with Xbox one S or a Roku stick ?
 

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If can be useful, i'm really going crazy with my UHZ65UST, i don't know if is related with the EDID problem, but since i have the Xbox Series X connected to HDMI 1, all the preset, Cinema, Bright, User, etc had all the values everytime at 0 (Color 0, Contrast 0), if i change preset, the image change on screen but all the values stay at 0.

If i play a game, in HDR, than when i come back to the Home Screen of the Xbox, is all darker, and there is no way to come back in a normal situation, only if i continue to play HDR contents the image come back good.

Every day more problems.
Color bending, Upper left and upper right impossible to be focused together, Sound sometime don't work, 10 seconds to change display mode with the snow screen and no input in the meantime, rattleling sound sometime probably fro the color wheel.

I wait the end of the holidays and than i send back this ****.
 

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I feel like optoma is big enough and has a reputation in the industry that there is an expectation for them to support their products which is one reason why people paid a premium. I have a VAVA and even with them being a small newcomer to UST projectors have gotten several firmware updates in the last 2 months to improve user experience. It's kind of disappointing IMO if Optoma is prioritizing support for the P2
I'm starting to agree with you especially now that they're prioritizing the P2. COVID is no longer an excuse. People can write software and firmware updates from their home. Test on a P1 at home and have virtual meetings with others to discuss what needs to be done to address the issues on the P1. Optoma is not doing that and I am going to go back and sign that ticket because their lack of response in this thread or to anyone is pretty disappointing because I've never had an issue with Optoma before. I was cutting on some slack due to the tariffs and covid-19 but the time has come where they need to fix the issues on the P1 or they're risking a class action lawsuit.


Like the EDID issues posted by the previous poster. Yes, I got rid of them but I had to order an HD fury product in order to get rid of the EDID problems I had with both my shield and Xbox One X, I had tons of dropouts and snow with both devices. 14 months after release in two software/firmware updates. One was a day one update and there's only been one sense then.

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