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Thank you for your reply,
See attached image with just white background.
Regards
I know this is old, but had almost the identical issue (small fibre-like shadow with refraction pattern) with my Optoma projector (different model) and managed to fix it, so this may help others. The good thing about Optoma is that they seem better than most at sealing the light engine, so as long as you don't see anything with a black screen it's not on the dmd chip. The only part that's exposed to the outside world is the end of the light tunnel, which is just behind the color wheel. This tunnel is terminated by a piece of glass, and a tiny strand of something on this can produce the above effect. The fact that increasing fan speed caused it to flutter also indicates it's in the bay where the bulb is.

To fix I used a bulb blower to squirt a few jets of air parallel behind the color wheel and across the end of the light tunnel. The good thing being that it's not possible to blow anything into the projector, it's sealed by glass here. On my model I didn't even have to take the lamp out, but you could remove it and cover any intakes, although the lamp housing itself does a pretty good job of doing this and you're also not blowing in their direction. Of course, there could be a failure elsewhere, but worth trying if anyone experiences this with any dlp projector, only takes a minute.
 

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Your BD player and/or receiver might be overheating. Make sure that the BD player (and less likely the receiver) has lots of clearance between it and other components and has some clearance below it. If you have a fan, put it on low and blow some air on the BD player and see if this helps.
Thanks for the suggestion. The components have plenty of clearance and air space. I recently replaced the LG 4K Blu Ray player with a Panasonic DP-UB150 4K Blu Ray player and the same thing happened at around the 1 hour mark of a brand new 4k disc.
 

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Thanks for the suggestion. The components have plenty of clearance and air space. I recently replaced the LG 4K Blu Ray player with a Panasonic DP-UB150 4K Blu Ray player and the same thing happened at around the 1 hour mark of a brand new 4k disc.
That probably indicates a disc error or a problem with your receiver. I'd try the fan to rule out overheating.
 

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UHD50 and Roku Premiere 4K HDR settings.

I just purchased a Roku Premiere streaming device and after some experimentation these seems to be the optimal settings for HDR on my 145in grey screen:

Roku: 4K HDR 30HZ,
UHD50 HDR DR = Bright, Gamma = Video

The UHD50 reports HDR 8bit 4:2:0 (or sometimes 4:2:2) BT 2020

Roku: 4K HDR 60hz is reported as HDR 10bit 4:2:0 BT 2020 but the resulting image is too dark.
 

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my unit has has a issue when it does not turn on, sometimes I see a faint light and here fan noise, then turns off and I turn on a couple of time and then I hear the pixel shift noise\buzz and see the optoma logo on screen and then it starts working. Any ideas??
 

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YCBCR

4:4:4 prefered but this will depend on the frame rate and you may need to decrease it to 4:4:2, or 4:2:0 to avoid the 18gbps bandwidth limit.

12Bit preferred, but again you may need to go to 10bit to avoid bandwidth issues.
Hey, thanks again for your advice. I had a quick follow-up question on color/sampling settings and how to choose between 4:4:4 at 8 bpc vs. 4:2:2 at 10 bpc. From what I've read, it is generally better to pick 10 bpc and use 4:2:2, but the exception is when using a PC. Since I'm gaming from my PC to the UHD 50, would it be better to do YCbCr 4:4:4 at 8 bpc or downgrade to 4:2:2 and use 10 bpc? Assuming both are viable and don't tax my frame rate or anything like that. Thanks again for your input.
 

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Hey, thanks again for your advice. I had a quick follow-up question on color/sampling settings and how to choose between 4:4:4 at 8 bpc vs. 4:2:2 at 10 bpc. From what I've read, it is generally better to pick 10 bpc and use 4:2:2, but the exception is when using a PC. Since I'm gaming from my PC to the UHD 50, would it be better to do YCbCr 4:4:4 at 8 bpc or downgrade to 4:2:2 and use 10 bpc? Assuming both are viable and don't tax my frame rate or anything like that. Thanks again for your input.
These are valid 4K/HDR signals:

 

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Hi,

Has anyone shared your settings for black room viewing? The brightness, contrast, gamma, etc?

I tried several adjustment and my eye don't seemed to be so discerning somehow during adjustment. Something still seemed to be missing.

Maybe someone shared theirs before but I can't seem to find it.

Would anyone mind sharing what is your best calibrated settings so I could try to duplicate and see if it works in my viewing environment?

Or if there is a thread for this, appreciate a redirection if possible.

Thanks bunches.
 

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Hi,

Has anyone shared your settings for black room viewing? The brightness, contrast, gamma, etc?

I tried several adjustment and my eye don't seemed to be so discerning somehow during adjustment. Something still seemed to be missing.

Maybe someone shared theirs before but I can't seem to find it.

Would anyone mind sharing what is your best calibrated settings so I could try to duplicate and see if it works in my viewing environment?

Or if there is a thread for this, appreciate a redirection if possible.

Thanks bunches.
I would suggest using a simple HD calibration test such as:


for HD sources. For HDR it's going to depend on source content. I would leave most settings at default but set colour temp to D65 and vary the HDR Dynamic Range from Bright to detail to suit content, and gamma from 2.2 to 1.8 or video.
 

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Dear all,
since i did read the posts here, i also would like to update my UHD300X with the UHD50 C07 firmware.
Unfortunately the link to the download is not working anymore.
Is there maybe somebody left here, who could pass this firmware update to me? I really would be very happy for it.
Thank you all in advance.
 

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I would suggest using a simple HD calibration test such as:


for HD sources. For HDR it's going to depend on source content. I would leave most settings at default but set colour temp to D65 and vary the HDR Dynamic Range from Bright to detail to suit content, and gamma from 2.2 to 1.8 or video.

2.2 gamma? Isn't that gonna be a little washed out?
 

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I feel like if you’re super concerned about picture quality and settings then maybe you should have bought a more expensive projector...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
You are kidding right? So if you get a cheap one you don't calibrate?

And if you get a SUPER expensive one, then only you calibrate? Really?
 
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