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I did some fiddling and reading and I am starting to be convinced it has to be my active HDMI cable causing my issues (after my receiver was updated). So I ordered one of these last night: https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=301&cp_id=30101&cs_id=3010101&p_id=31013&seq=1&format=2 It's a Fiber Optic HDMI cable. This comment kinda gives me the hint that I'm looking for


These fiber optic cables are not cheap at all. Even the most expensive active cables are a third of the cost so there has to be a reason they are selling. I just got lucky to order one when the 40ft was on such a huge sale.

I can't reiterate enough how night and day the color saturation and depth of the blacks (with zero discernible black crush at all) and the highly saturated whites didn't have any of the white crush issues. This was what I needed to see to know for a fact it isn't the projector but some "digital" issue of sorts to oversimplify it all. And it just seems to match my senses that it is the cable even though it is a brand new active high speed HDMI cable.
The fiber optic HDMI cable didn't change the behavior at all. I bought some movies I already own so I could do some A/B comparisons and now I have figured out the true source of my troubles. I just didn't see the pattern before even though it was right there for me to see.

My problem is the Plex client on the Roku Ultra. The same movie played in Disney+ and Vudu on the same Roku Ultra looks fine. So this never was related to the projector. I really appreciate your help with this.
 

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This is an older video but I just ran across it. It's a brief comparison of the UHD60 and the UHZ65 (both with early firmware):


 

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The fiber optic HDMI cable didn't change the behavior at all. I bought some movies I already own so I could do some A/B comparisons and now I have figured out the true source of my troubles. I just didn't see the pattern before even though it was right there for me to see.

My problem is the Plex client on the Roku Ultra. The same movie played in Disney+ and Vudu on the same Roku Ultra looks fine. So this never was related to the projector. I really appreciate your help with this.
Just for some feedback for everyone here. I have fixed a lot of problems but not 100% yet. I found that active cables were jacking up the HDR signal. When I switched to offensively priced passive HDMI cables the HDR was gorgeous. I'm still having an issue with stupid long HDMI handshaking times whenever something changes leading to long periods of black on the projector. Is it normal for the projector to have really long black periods whenever something changes with the HDMI signal?

I just wanted everyone to know that passive cables seem to be the fix for suspected HDR problems. And I have bought a lot of cables to test this theory and that seems to be the magic trick.
 

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Just for some feedback for everyone here. I have fixed a lot of problems but not 100% yet. I found that active cables were jacking up the HDR signal. When I switched to offensively priced passive HDMI cables the HDR was gorgeous. I'm still having an issue with stupid long HDMI handshaking times whenever something changes leading to long periods of black on the projector. Is it normal for the projector to have really long black periods whenever something changes with the HDMI signal?

I just wanted everyone to know that passive cables seem to be the fix for suspected HDR problems. And I have bought a lot of cables to test this theory and that seems to be the magic trick.
My UHD50 can take ~10-15 seconds to switch into HDR mode.
 

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Just for some feedback for everyone here. I have fixed a lot of problems but not 100% yet. I found that active cables were jacking up the HDR signal. When I switched to offensively priced passive HDMI cables the HDR was gorgeous. I'm still having an issue with stupid long HDMI handshaking times whenever something changes leading to long periods of black on the projector. Is it normal for the projector to have really long black periods whenever something changes with the HDMI signal?

I just wanted everyone to know that passive cables seem to be the fix for suspected HDR problems. And I have bought a lot of cables to test this theory and that seems to be the magic trick.
What cable did you end up getting? I'm running into similar issues with my UHD60.
 

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Just for some feedback for everyone here. I have fixed a lot of problems but not 100% yet. I found that active cables were jacking up the HDR signal. When I switched to offensively priced passive HDMI cables the HDR was gorgeous. I'm still having an issue with stupid long HDMI handshaking times whenever something changes leading to long periods of black on the projector. Is it normal for the projector to have really long black periods whenever something changes with the HDMI signal?



I just wanted everyone to know that passive cables seem to be the fix for suspected HDR problems. And I have bought a lot of cables to test this theory and that seems to be the magic trick.
Passive cable works good if you have a short distance from your source to PJ. I have to run roughly 40ft from receiver to PJ, so passive is no go. I am using Cabernet from Monoprice. It works great

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What cable did you end up getting? I'm running into similar issues with my UHD60.
This is what ended up working for me. I tried a ton of active cables. One of which was $250. This is what is working for me. I'm sure there are active cables that will work.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/rocketfish-24-4k-ultrahd-hdr-in-wall-rated-hdmi-cable-black/3699003.p?skuId=3699003&ref=212&loc=1&extStoreId=1102&ref=212&loc=1&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=CjwKCAjwgdX4BRB_EiwAg8O8HeVXGowmO26k_SpHii9QPCHD5g0CJE5d5EKm6VtZoX7GXFVsNwWIfBoCVxwQAvD_BwE
 

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Hey just curious if anyone has dialed in an HDR game playing config they are really happy with for the UHD60? I'm currently tweaking what I have been using to see if I can get a better image specifically form HDR gaming on PS4pro. This is for single player games, so the input lag is so far a non-issue even with HDR on.

This is what I am currently trying out for HDR games... Ghost of Tsushima at the moment.
These are based on Mojo's HDR setting that I use most of the time for shows/movies.

Display Mode: HDR
Wall Color: Off
Dynamic Range: HDR Auto / HDR Picture Mode Standard (a little too much detail lost on Bright)
Brightness: -1
Contrast: 0
Sharpness: 8
Color: 16
Tint: -2
Gamma: 1.8
Ultra Detail: 1
Dynamic Black: On
Brilliant Color: 9
Color Temp: D65
Color Gamut: Cinema
CMS: Defaults
Color Space: Auto
RGB Gain/Bias Settings:
Red Gain: -4
Green Gain: -1
Blue Gain: 12
Red Bias: 0
Green Bias: -1
Blue Bias: 2
 

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Just purchased a pre-owned UHD60 from FBM and should be delivered Friday. My current setup is a Benq HT2050 ceiling mounted at 19.5 feet onto a paneled white wall at 200 inches diagonal image size.

Will I need to move my mount back to achieve the 200 inches diagonal with the Optoma? Am I correct that the projector is capable of going up to 300 inches screen size? If so, can it throw a 200 inch diagonal without losing much of what makes it a great projector at smaller screen sizes?

Finally, my ceiling mount is rated for 30 pounds. The project is 16 pounds. I suppose I'm good there.
 

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Just purchased a pre-owned UHD60 from FBM and should be delivered Friday. My current setup is a Benq HT2050 ceiling mounted at 19.5 feet onto a paneled white wall at 200 inches diagonal image size.

Will I need to move my mount back to achieve the 200 inches diagonal with the Optoma? Am I correct that the projector is capable of going up to 300 inches screen size? If so, can it throw a 200 inch diagonal without losing much of what makes it a great projector at smaller screen sizes?

Finally, my ceiling mount is rated for 30 pounds. The project is 16 pounds. I suppose I'm good there.
Using calculator from Projector People, you can only get maximum at 193 inches with your throw distance at 19.5 feet and 1.6x zoom

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Using calculator from Projector People, you can only get maximum at 193 inches with your throw distance at 19.5 feet and 1.6x zoom

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Thanks for the help and the reference URL. That's an excellent resource. The 193 is fine too. I don't have a fixed screen, its just an 8 foot tall wall at the end of the room. So, according to that calculator at 8 foot height and 16x9 diagonal, the max screen size is 195" diagonal so its fine.
 

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These are based on Mojo's HDR setting that I use most of the time for shows/movies.

Display Mode: HDR
Wall Color: Off
Dynamic Range: HDR Auto / HDR Picture Mode Standard (a little too much detail lost on Bright)
Brightness: -1
Contrast: 0
Sharpness: 8
Color: 16
Tint: -2
Gamma: 1.8
Ultra Detail: 1
Dynamic Black: On
Brilliant Color: 9
Color Temp: D65
Color Gamut: Cinema
CMS: Defaults
Color Space: Auto
RGB Gain/Bias Settings:
Red Gain: -4
Green Gain: -1
Blue Gain: 12
Red Bias: 0
Green Bias: -1
Blue Bias: 2
Thanks, I'm going to start with these and see how it looks. Dark room, night viewing only for me. Mostly 4K streamed movies and content.
 

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I am going through the firmware update process right now. My projector has C10. I did not know that they were going to send me a paid shipping label to send my projector in to have the firmware updated. That was a nice surprise. I hope it is not gone too long...it's weird not having a projector. I was not unhappy with my projector, there was nothing really wrong. I just wanted to get the firmware updated before I ran out of it being under warranty.
 

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Just hooked up my UHD60 for the first time, Apple TV 4K, Netflix 4K HDR enabled with a 1 foot length $9.99 "4K" HDMI cable I just ordered from Amazon. The HDMI is connected to the "HDCP 2.2" enabled HDMI port on the UHD60 (that's the only one that supports 4k HDR, right?)

With ATV's "match content" and "match frame rate" turned ON, I'm getting sync issues galore with Netflix 4K HDR content. The picture, when its on, stays locked for about a couple seconds, then I see a flash of yellowish static every 2-3 seconds, like a pattern. Switching the HDMI cable to one I have currently running 4K HDR from an ATV 4K to my TCL 55" HDTV it can't even lock on the signal. The cheap Amazon cable at least does that.

Switch back to the cheap Amazon 4K HDMI cable and back to same, then eventually, it loses sync completely and the "no source" popover appears and I have to exit out of Netflix to get a picture again.

If I turn off ATV's "match content" and "match frame rate", the issues go away but so does the pop of HDR. Image is washed out and obviously not HDR.

I suppose this new "4K" cable is not up to 4K HDR? Or do I have bigger issues?


Assuming its the cable, this one says its rated for HDR atleast ((4K 60Hz HDR,Video 4K 2160p 1080p 3D HDCP 2.2) Should this one be OK or can someone recommend another?


Surely I don't need fiber. The ATV is sitting on top of the projector so the HDMI is less than 1 foot in length.
 

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I had my UHD60 Calibrated by an ISF certified technician today, both SDR and HDR profiles:

Images 8195-8205 are HDR settings, 8206-8216 are SDR 'user' settings:

HDR UHD60









SDR UHD60







Damn shame these images weren't uploaded here to the forum. They are all gone now. Anyone have them archived can upload them here?
 

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Thanks, I'm going to start with these and see how it looks. Dark room, night viewing only for me. Mostly 4K streamed movies and content.
Cool, Yeah those settings are where I'm leaving it for HDR game playing, so far it's been working out really well. The settings I had for movies where I a little different but I admit I've been too lazy to change it back for a couple shows and it was still pretty good. :)
 

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If I download a 4K Netflix, Prime or Apple TV rental advertised as "Dolby Vision" but not "HDR", and since the Optoma only supports HDR and not DV will the Apple TV 4K send HDR instead of DV? Are all DV titles downsampled to HDR for non DV enabled display devices like the Optoma uhd60?
 

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If I download a 4K Netflix, Prime or Apple TV rental advertised as "Dolby Vision" but not "HDR", and since the Optoma only supports HDR and not DV will the Apple TV 4K send HDR instead of DV? Are all DV titles downsampled to HDR for non DV enabled display devices like the Optoma uhd60?
DV is just another version of HDR. For the scenario above Apple would have to have the HDR10 version besides the DV in order to work. But if they claim it's DV, not sure if the HDR10 version is also available.
I don't think DV can be downsampled to HDR10. DV is HDR with metadata for each frame, similar to HDR10+. HDR10 just has the accumulated metadata for the entire movie (top and average nit value).

 
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