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OT- Laminate Flooring Installation

3059 Views 27 Replies 13 Participants Last post by tonybradley, Jan 3, 2009

tonybradley

Discussion Starter · Dec 28, 2008

Sorry that this is Off Topic, but I figured several of you would have experience laying Laminate Flooring.

I'm going to be installing Mohawk Laminate flooring in a bedroom this week and have a few questions:

1) I don't have a table saw now, but am planning on buying a cheap Ryobi 10" Table saw and a good Carbide Blade to cut the laminate. Are the blades in the Ryobi Table saws standard so that I can buy any brand 10" Carbide Blade?

2) The bedroom adjoins a hallway with Hardwood flooring. Should I install the Laminate Flooring in the bedroom so that it is perpendicular or parallel to the Hardwood in the adjoining the hall, or is this just personal taste?

3) To cut around AC Vent openings in the floor, do I cut it out as I go, or do I lay the flooring over the hole, mark it with a hole, and then cut it out? If I use a JigSaw, what type of jigsaw blade should I use to cut out the opening?

Thanks in advance.

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

jamis

· #2 · Dec 28, 2008

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonybradley /forum/post/15395833

Sorry that this is Off Topic, but I figured several of you would have experience laying Laminate Flooring.

I'm going to be installing Mohawk Laminate flooring in a bedroom this week and have a few questions:

1) I don't have a table saw now, but am planning on buying a cheap Ryobi 10" Table saw and a good Carbide Blade to cut the laminate. Are the blades in the Ryobi Table saws standard so that I can buy any brand 10" Carbide Blade?

Pretty sure that most table saws take standard blades. A table saw is a MUST when doing wood floors.

Quote:
2) The bedroom adjoins a hallway with Hardwood flooring. Should I install the Laminate Flooring in the bedroom so that it is perpendicular or parallel to the Hardwood in the adjoining the hall, or is this just personal taste?

I'd run it perpendicular to the existing hardwood for looks. Personal preference if you were transitioning to tile or carpet.

Just be careful if you run the laminate parallel to the door. Most laminate and engineered wood floors have a minimum width for their planks and you need to be sure the end plank will flow far enough into the doorway before you put your transition piece in (T-molding, door tread, reducer, etc).

Quote:
3) To cut around AC Vent openings in the floor, do I cut it out as I go, or do I lay the flooring over the hole, mark it with a hole, and then cut it out? If I use a JigSaw, what type of jigsaw blade should I use to cut out the opening?

I'd probably cut the planks before putting them down, but I'm sure it could be done either way.

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BIGmouthinDC

· #3 · Dec 28, 2008

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonybradley /forum/post/15395833

Are the blades in the Ryobi Table saws standard so that I can buy any brand 10" Carbide Blade?

I've never heard of a saw that didn't use standard blades. Get a fine tooth blade.

Scawt

· #4 · Dec 28, 2008

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonybradley /forum/post/15395833

To cut around AC Vent openings in the floor, do I cut it out as I go, or do I lay the flooring over the hole, mark it with a hole, and then cut it out? If I use a JigSaw, what type of jigsaw blade should I use to cut out the opening?

I did my floors earlier this year and put the planks down before cutting the holes. I measured the opening before putting them down, marked the plank with a sharpie, and then installed it. Be careful on the size of the opening, because once you click it in or finish the row, your measurement might be off by a little bit.

I can't remember the blade type on the jigsaw, but get one with a lot of teeth

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Hallow8

· #5 · Dec 28, 2008

I installed laminate not too long ago in my dining room. I had never done anything like this before and started in the corner (running perpendicular) to the kitchen laminate.

When it came time to do the register cutouts and weird angles, I just waited until I got to that point instead of planning ahead of time.

I also just used a jigsaw with a fine tooth blade, worked just fine.

Johnsteph10

· #6 · Dec 28, 2008

The answers here are spot on.

I've installed laminate flooring in a fair amount of rooms in the last 2 houses I had (both were fixer-uppers).

Just be aware of several things:

1. Measure carefully.

2. Use a high quality fine toothed blade (80 at least). If you have to cut a lot, don't be surprised if you have to have 2 blades. Laminate flooring is very hard.

3. Usually the planks have to be a certain width -- usually like 2 inches or more. Make sure you take this into account before you start as you might have to rip the first row to insure the last row is the minimum width.

4. Leave a small amount of room along the edge of the room for expansion -- especially now that it is winter.

5. Generally, you want to run the flooring so that natural light will show the seams the LEAST. Running it perpendicular or parallel to other flooring is just a preference.

6. Get a high quality backer/membrane to go underneath it. They are definitely not all created equally.

7. For registers/cutouts, lay the floor until you get to that area, fit the board in place, and then mark it for cuts. You'd be amazed at the differences that pop up when things are fitting into place.

8. Make sure the subfloor/concrete/whatever is absolutely clean. A small rock, etc, can play havoc with your floor.

I'm sure there is more but that's my stream of thought for right now. A properly done laminate flooring looks great and take quite a lot of abuse. I also think that they are more comfortable to walk on that hardwood floors.

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tonybradley

Discussion Starter · #7 · Dec 28, 2008

Thanks to everyone. I purchased an 84 tooth blade for a cheap Ryobi Table saw I also purchased. I also purchased a couple of 18 TPI and 24 TPI metal jig blades. Wow, those 84 teeth blades are PRICEY!!!!!

Iusteve

· #8 · Dec 28, 2008

Not to hijack here but I also am about to venture into the laminate world around a bar and want to know if I can use a mitre saw or not? And if so what type of blade? Carbide tip,diamond tip,etc?

cathead

· #9 · Dec 29, 2008

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve /forum/post/15399228

Not to hijack here but I also am about to venture into the laminate world around a bar and want to know if I can use a mitre saw or not? And if so what type of blade? Carbide tip,diamond tip,etc?

I used a mitre saw for my floor and just used the blade that came with the saw. I had no problems with splintering.

Johnsteph10

· #10 · Dec 29, 2008

As long as you use a good blade, a miter saw is fine as long as it can cut the width of the boards (a lot of time they are at least 6 inches wide)..

Iusteve

· #11 · Dec 29, 2008

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnsteph10 /forum/post/15400309

As long as you use a good blade, a miter saw is fine as long as it can cut the width of the boards (a lot of time they are at least 6 inches wide)..

I NEVER thought of that

!! I think my flooring is a little over 8" wide and my saw will only cut 8".....Now what do I do.....

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2

BIGmouthinDC

· #12 · Dec 29, 2008

Dude, you can't make long cuts on a miter saw. Is your room the exact dimensions of a multiple of your laminate width? You will probably need to rip the last piece to get it to fit when you reach the far wall.

Every DIYer needs a table saw in their arsenal of weaponry, Man up.

I view every project as an excuse to invest in tools that I don't have room to store.

tonybradley

Discussion Starter · #13 · Dec 29, 2008

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/15403042

Dude, you can't make long cuts on a miter saw. Is your room the exact dimensions of a multiple of your laminate width? You will probably need to rip the last piece to get it to fit when you reach the far wall.

Every DIYer needs a table saw in their arsenal of weaponry, Man up.

I view every project as an excuse to invest in tools that I don't have room to store.

For the longest time, I've used a circular saw (and DIY Guides) to rip boards, and it's time consuming. For the Laminate, I decided to buy a cheap Ryobi Table Saw for $109. Granted, I purchased a $64 84 Tooth Carbide Blade to use for the laminate, but it should make installation a little easier (I hope).

I think I'm going to lay the floor over the Vent opening in the floor, mark it, drill a hole, then use a jig saw to cut out the opening. I bought Metal Blades for the jib (18 and 24 Teeth per inch) as recommended by the associate. Hope that works out ok. What is the best type of Drill Bit to drill through the laminate, so I can use the jig to cut out the opening?

Iusteve

· #14 · Dec 29, 2008

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/15403042

Dude, you can't make long cuts on a miter saw. Is your room the exact dimensions of a multiple of your laminate width? You will probably need to rip the last piece to get it to fit when you reach the far wall.

Every DIYer needs a table saw in their arsenal of weaponry, Man up.

I view every project as an excuse to invest in tools that I don't have room to store.

Well I just recently added a real nice 12" compound mitre while building a massive deck around our pool so I didnt want to invest more $$ in a table saw right now as $$ is a bit tight but I may have to. I planned on ripping the last piece via circular saw but obviously table saw would be much easier. As far as the new tool I have no room for that is spot on here, if I had a table saw it would have to be stored in the bedroom

as the garage is overloaded.

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Johnsteph10

· #15 · Dec 29, 2008

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/15403042

Dude, you can't make long cuts on a miter saw. Is your room the exact dimensions of a multiple of your laminate width? You will probably need to rip the last piece to get it to fit when you reach the far wall.

Every DIYer needs a table saw in their arsenal of weaponry, Man up.

I view every project as an excuse to invest in tools that I don't have room to store.

Funny!

I always look forward to buying new tools.

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In2Photos

· #16 · Dec 29, 2008

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonybradley /forum/post/15403270

I think I'm going to lay the floor over the Vent opening in the floor, mark it, drill a hole, then use a jig saw to cut out the opening. I bought Metal Blades for the jib (18 and 24 Teeth per inch) as recommended by the associate. Hope that works out ok. What is the best type of Drill Bit to drill through the laminate, so I can use the jig to cut out the opening?

You are not going to cut the floor while still over the vent right? That would leave a big mess in your ductwork. Not good!

imprez25

· #17 · Dec 29, 2008

I've installed about 3000sqft of laminate and hardwood in the last 3 years, so I have it down to a science now. My biggest tool recomendations would be the miter saw and a table saw. You could get by with a basic circular saw or a jig saw (you'll need one of these anyways), but it would be a pain to secure your cuts.

Another suggestion is to not use a tape measure. I know it sounds crazy, but I have found that I do a better job when I mark each peice on the floor, vs measuring the distance then marking it on the board. This way I know it will fit without having to make multiple trips to the saw or worse yet, having to scrap a peice that I miss marked.

Scawt

· #18 · Dec 29, 2008

Quote:
Originally Posted by In2Photos /forum/post/15404013

You are not going to cut the floor while still over the vent right? That would leave a big mess in your ductwork. Not good!

It works fine, that's what vacuum cleaners are for.

Quote:
Originally Posted by imprez25 /forum/post/15404295

Another suggestion is to not use a tape measure. I know it sounds crazy, but I have found that I do a better job when I mark each peice on the floor, vs measuring the distance then marking it on the board. This way I know it will fit without having to make multiple trips to the saw or worse yet, having to scrap a peice that I miss marked.

x2, blue painters tape works good too

Iusteve

· #19 · Dec 30, 2008

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/15403042

Dude, you can't make long cuts on a miter saw. Is your room the exact dimensions of a multiple of your laminate width? You will probably need to rip the last piece to get it to fit when you reach the far wall.

Every DIYer needs a table saw in their arsenal of weaponry, Man up.

I view every project as an excuse to invest in tools that I don't have room to store.

Alright I bucked up and found a great deal on an entry level craftsman 10" table saw so I took the "new" tool plunge although I didnt want to I did. So the floors (when its time) will go down alot easier as soon as I figure out exactly what type blade I should use. I only have 150sq.ft. to install so it should be fairly easy with the right blade

tonybradley

Discussion Starter · #20 · Dec 31, 2008

My OSB board was glued and nailed to the floor joists. The rigid threaded type nails. There are no squeaks in the floor, and it feels solid. Is there any need to screw the floor down as well?

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

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