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When I click on a link to a product it goes to a page saying "click here to go to our new web page" but nothing happens after that.
 

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The fact that this is your 666th post makes me nervous for the Outlaw Audio website!:eek::D
This will be post 668:)


It's the devil in me that makes me post on this forum!


Why did I note the down site in the first place? I have a Garmin smartwatch and their site was down for days because of a ransomware attack and I feared for the worst at Outlaw.
 

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Anyone tried the new version of the 5000 amp with the XLR input added. Other than that, is there any other changes in, what they call, the 5000X model? And of course, price went up by another 100$ to 750$. I am curious as I am thinking of adding that to my setup. With tax and shipping added, it goes over 850$ new from Outlaw. Should I just look for a used 5000 instead and save couple of hundred bucks? Thoughts?
 

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Anyone tried the new version of the 5000 amp with the XLR input added. Other than that, is there any other changes in, what they call, the 5000X model? And of course, price went up by another 100$ to 750$. I am curious as I am thinking of adding that to my setup. With tax and shipping added, it goes over 850$ new from Outlaw. Should I just look for a used 5000 instead and save couple of hundred bucks? Thoughts?

What pre/pro are you running, if you have the ability for XLR connections I say go for it, I run the 7000X off my XMC-2 and the sound is friggin fantastic, for both 2ch use and surround, most of that is due to the XMC-2 but the 7000X amp is a very nice neutral amp allowing my system to sound excellent, I use the amp to power my 5 speakers in my main system and two outdoor speakers on zone 2.
 
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Good day everyone,

I have been doing research on the 7000x for a full 2 weeks now and was not able to find any solid reviews on youtube or any AV site, the only info I found was here in the forum and I'd like to thank everyone for their time in sharing their experiences.

I just ordered 2 of them and will be using them to bi amp my front 3 channels and single amp the rest of my 7.2.4 system. I will be using the Denon AVR6500H as a preamp only.

I was thinking of getting a Monolith 7X for my main 7 channels and let the Denon handle the overhead speakers, but when I did the math...(hear me out on this) it made more sense to get 2 7 channel amps for the price of one... and by bi-amping the front channels I end up with more power to them.... (260 vs 200 watts) I believe they will be more dynamic in fact. My front 3 channels are made up of the Polk Audio RT3000p towers and CS1000p Center.... (just refreshed the ferrofluid on my tweeters... and all 3 have Bash amps also) and all the other channels are RT series speakers. Room is 14 X 22 X 8.... I will update the results.

Again thanks everyone for sharing your experiences!

Ed
 

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Good day everyone,

I have been doing research on the 7000x for a full 2 weeks now and was not able to find any solid reviews on youtube or any AV site, the only info I found was here in the forum and I'd like to thank everyone for their time in sharing their experiences.

I just ordered 2 of them and will be using them to bi amp my front 3 channels and single amp the rest of my 7.2.4 system. I will be using the Denon AVR6500H as a preamp only.

I was thinking of getting a Monolith 7X for my main 7 channels and let the Denon handle the overhead speakers, but when I did the math...(hear me out on this) it made more sense to get 2 7 channel amps for the price of one... and by bi-amping the front channels I end up with more power to them.... (260 vs 200 watts) I believe they will be more dynamic in fact. My front 3 channels are made up of the Polk Audio RT3000p towers and CS1000p Center.... (just refreshed the ferrofluid on my tweeters... and all 3 have Bash amps also) and all the other channels are RT series speakers. Room is 14 X 22 X 8.... I will update the results.

Again thanks everyone for sharing your experiences!

Ed
I am running 2 - Outlaw 7000X’s with my Marantz 7703 and love how it sound! I bi-amped my front 3 speakers. I am running 7.2.4 in my room. I am very happy with how it sounds. I was running an Atlantic Technology 7 channel amp and a Parasound HCA1205 5 channel amp prior to switching to the Outlaw 7000X. I wanted to bi-amp again and use XLR. My system is very quiet now, it was before but there was a very slight hum.

I hope you enjoy your amps

Jeff
 

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Thanks Jeff,

It sounds like what I am trying to achieve... it's good to know you are happy with them.... Outlaw seems like a really good company... I ordered them today and they already shipped them within 2 hours.... excellent thus far!

BTW Jeff, did you have any of the "remote turn on" issues that have been mentioned in the forum? Are you using Mono 3.5mm leads?

thanks,

Ed
 

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Is there any proof that bi-amping fronts with an amp provides double the power to the speaker? In theory it might be true for the 7000X to output 260 watts via 2 ports combined, but does it really do that for practical purpose?
 

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Here is my humble opinion.... each amplifier delivers 130watts per "circuit" meaning that in my case... the woofer circuit will be driven by 130watts, while the tweeter circuit will be driven by 130watts as well...

For example a light fixture that has 5 receptacles each rated at 30watt lamp will deliver that wattage to each lamp... if only using one lamp you get only that much lumens.... if adding another lamp you add additional lumens..... both share the same power source and only deliver 30 watts and together place a higher load on the one circuit... now if you use 2 separate 30watt lamps on separate circuits the load will be lower on each circuit and light output quite possibly brighter... hopefully that makes sense...

In the case of the speakers... if delivering 200watts to the "joined" woofer and tweeter circuit the load presented to the amp is seen as one circuit.... so you are only delivering 200watts to all 3 speakers at once.....

Ed
 

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I am using the 3.5mm connection. The lights on my amps are always blue. I do not think they are turning off correctly when my processor turns off. I believe it should turn red. I just haven't taken the time to work on that. I know I should but have not.

You can not and should not try and connect both amp channels to one speaker without having the tweeter/mid separated from the woofers. That could and most likely would damage the amp. My speakers, which are the Energy Veritas 2.4's have both the tweeter and mid range separated from the woofers. I know the woofers eat most of the power. I did not do a blind test to see what the difference would be if I only had one amp channel going to the speaker compared to bi-amping it. My thoughts are, I have the extra amp channels so I am bi-amping my front 3. It may just be my non double blind tested perception but there is quite a bit more head room, the sound is cleaner and there is no buzz now with the Outlaw amps. It also might be that both of my other amps had been in for repair. The AT, went in twice. I had a couple of bad channels that had to be repaired. The Outlaw amps sound so much better than what I had before.
 
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Is there any proof that bi-amping fronts with an amp provides double the power to the speaker? In theory it might be true for the 7000X to output 260 watts via 2 ports combined, but does it really do that for practical purpose?
Active bi-amping it will--but passive bi-amping it won't

Active bi-amping means an electronic crossover must be involved, you can adjust the crossover point with switches, knobs or software and generally included adjustable filter slopes, filter types, electronic delay (for time alignment of the drivers) and different frequency points for you to choose from. Be aware that when going active bi-amping, you must remove the passive crossover so each amplifier channel directly drives the speaker driver. Active means it splits the frequencies before amplification--very common in pro sound and car audio, quite rare to see that ability in consumer grade speakers. Also be aware it is very easy to damage midranges and tweeters with active bi/tri/quad amping speakers so best to become very knowledgable about the speakers you are attempting to actively modify. Generally speaking it is a good idea to use adjustable limiters on the amplifiers to limit the amount of power going to the drivers, for example dome tweeters can't handle much power as is obvious by going to Parts Express (for example) and you'll see power ratings of 20 watts, 30 watts generally for dome tweeters. Usually, most consumer speakers use 1" voice coil dome tweeters and being so small, that naturally limits how much power they can withstand before burning the voice coil. Some domes can do 40 or 50 watts but generally are 27 to 30mm or larger which can create issues with beaming at the frequencies over 15KHz.

If you are talking passive bi-amping where you put a full range signal into a passive crossover--no, you won't "double the power" because passive crossovers don't work that way. You do get the ability to change how hard the tweeter, woofer or midrange is driven by adjusting the gain to different levels. This might do something if you want to do that but also changes the acoustic crossover point of the passive crossover. Depending on your speaker, this might makes things better but generallyy makes things worse. If you choose to not change the gains on the amplifiers, then you really don't gain anything but it does help heat up your room during the winter. For more information, look up more engineering related sites to explain how passive crossovers work, what they do, what they can't do and why it matters. Basically, real world you are adding additional speaker wire and can play with the gains--if that is what you want, go for it but it does not "double the power". To do that requires actively bi-amping but that does not "double the power" either because if the difference in power demands at different frequencies. Active is great because you can modify whatever you like, it gets rid of the power consumption of passive crossover components and l-pads and you gain efficiency IF you tend to use a lot of power. Very common in pro sound to go active for that reason--they wish to conserve amplifier power to prevent blowing breakers.

One last tip, if you choose to actively bi-amp your speakers by removing the crossover--most manufacturers will void your warranty so do that at your own risk! I have actively bi-amped my PA system back in the day and commonly bi/tri amped car audio installs but don't go active with my HT systems--well, I do because I use active subwoofers which technically is "active bi-amping" but I avoid that terminology to prevent confusing my friends/family.

Enjoy your amps! :)
 

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On the matter of "Bi-Amping"....

Active Bi-Amping as 18Hurts mentioned involves "Active" or electronically "live" equipment such as an electronic crossover that "lives" between your source IE "preamp" and your amplifier.... it takes the full bandwith signal from your source and crosses it over at your desired point before it is amplified and delivered to your speaker.

See this....
electronic crossover.jpg

Passive Bi-amping is done at the speaker terminal on your speakers. You know if you can bi-amp your speakers if you have this type of connection on it...
speaker terminal.jpg

As you can see there is a "Bridge" between 2 separate connections. One connection will go to the HI "tweeter" part of a Passive crossover inside the speaker cabinet (or a separate Hi Pass Crossover by it self) that is connected to your tweeter.... while the other connection will go to the LOW passive crossover inside your speaker cabinet.

Bi-amping then allows you to take 1 of the seven speaker outputs from the amp and bring the full bandwith of sound directly to only the low drivers and another full bandwith output to only the hi drivers. The passive crossovers inside your speaker cabinet will then filter out the unwanted freequencies and what you get.... as in my case... is 130W to the highs and 130W to the lows in each of my front 3 speakers.

It's not super simple but hopefully this makes it easy to digest....

Ed
 

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Is there any proof that bi-amping fronts with an amp provides double the power to the speaker? In theory it might be true for the 7000X to output 260 watts via 2 ports combined, but does it really do that for practical purpose?
So to answer your question clearly....

One hose brings 200watts of pressure... at the end of the hose you have a Y adaptor and 2 Hose guns..... if you only open one gun you get "all" the available pressure right?..... now you open the second gun while the first one is already open.... what do you see? the pressure on the first gun drops a little doesn't it.... now you have two hose guns open sharing the available pressure....

Now you have two separate hoses each with 130W of pressure and only one gun on each hose.... how's your pressure?

Does this make sense?

Ed
 

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I am considering dual Outlaw 2220s to power my F206 towers - any current owners of this amp able to give me your thoughts on how these perform for music? Thinking they will do well for home theater movies / TV and rock - curious if others have experience with how the clarity is with this amp for example with classical music - piano / strings. I am looking to use the external amps for Revel F206 towers for home theater use as part of a 7.2.4 system and also for 2 channel music listening. I am also considering a few amps from Parasound - 2250 v2 and Halo A23+ if any has listened to these and Outlaw, would love to hear thoughts. Thanks!
 

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I am considering dual Outlaw 2220s to power my F206 towers - any current owners of this amp able to give me your thoughts on how these perform for music? Thinking they will do well for home theater movies / TV and rock - curious if others have experience with how the clarity is with this amp for example with classical music - piano / strings. I am looking to use the external amps for Revel F206 towers for home theater use as part of a 7.2.4 system and also for 2 channel music listening. I am also considering a few amps from Parasound - 2250 v2 and Halo A23+ if any has listened to these and Outlaw, would love to hear thoughts. Thanks!
I'm powering a pair of f206s (and a c205) with an Outlaw 5000 and have been happy with the sound (AVR is a Marantz 6014). I've been listening to a lot more jazz with this setup, and generally listen to acoustic singer-songwriter type, more nuanced music.

Haven't compared with anything else so can't say better/worse, but I can say I'm happy with the setup
 

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So to answer your question clearly....

One hose brings 200watts of pressure... at the end of the hose you have a Y adaptor and 2 Hose guns..... if you only open one gun you get "all" the available pressure right?..... now you open the second gun while the first one is already open.... what do you see? the pressure on the first gun drops a little doesn't it.... now you have two hose guns open sharing the available pressure....

Now you have two separate hoses each with 130W of pressure and only one gun on each hose.... how's your pressure?

Does this make sense?

Ed
In simple terms, it does make sense. In actuality, I never seen a consensus on this issue. For example, even here the poster above you is saying passive bi-amping does not increase power to double. My Klipsch fronts comes with the dual binding posts as your pictures and it is probably for the reason you explained. While there is some benefit of providing bi-amp on the two set of posts by removing the copper plate and thus separating the inputs to different cross-overs (otherwise manufacturers would not give this option), I am not sure it is actually giving double the watt (130x2) to the speaker. I am not just convinced on your "doubling" part.

A speaker draws what power it needs from the amp based on how loud we want it to be. Its not the amp that is forcing power to the speaker, unlike your example of water hose. They are different examples.
 

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A speaker draws what power it needs from the amp based on how loud we want it to be. Its not the amp that is forcing power to the speaker, unlike your example of water hose. They are different examples.

Actually.... the amp provides the power as you raise the volume.... like the gun in the hose would control the pressure flow and max out at a certain pressure level so will your speaker... the more pressure available the stronger your flow.. it's physics.... available power/pressure over demand equals something or other right???? LOL

But what do I know....

I can't wait to actually report on the amps... they are due to arrive next Thursday and I will have everything ready for a quick hook up... so Friday I will post my initial impressions.... and will post some pics.. they're always fun...

Ed
 
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