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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | 6.1.4: B&W 802D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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Thanks Don! Sony suggests to replace the bulb:(
Sony always suggests this no matter what the problem is.
What I suggest is buying a cheap light meter and measuring your bulb life so you know how the bulb is doing. Then when yo have any issues you can get a quick measurement and know where you're at.

I use this meter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005A0ETXY

To measure lumens, I put the meter on the center of my screen facing the projector, put the projector into high lamp, dynamic iris off, and display a pure white image. Measure in lux. Then repeat for low lamp.

Then you do some math to convert your lux to meters.
The math is: ({Lux Measured} / 10.76) x ({screen width in feet} x {screen height in feet})

A new 665ES bulb will probably see something around 1600 lumens high, 900 lumens low.
 

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Cinema Film2 Bright Cinema
Lux measured 92.6 120

Lumens
133 Inc scren) 453 587


Bright Cinema I got about 587 Lumens, which is too low for a projector like this :(
 

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Greetings,
I sent my unit in to United radio for a warranty fix and they replace the whole light unit.

however my IRIS is not working, can someone please send me a picture of their IRIS up close through the lens?
I am wondering if it looks the same as mine

thanks

Keith
 

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Hey guys! I recently acquired a 665es that does not power on. Im trying to locate the source of the problem. Does anyone have a diagram or schematic for this unit? I see a few cords unplugged inside the unit and want to make sure everything matches up
 

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Anyone has any ideas how to install latest firmware ( only apple products at home) to make sure it works? Or is it PC only download?
 

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Anyone has any ideas how to install latest firmware ( only apple products at home) to make sure it works? Or is it PC only download?
You can install the latest firmware for the 665ES with a Mac, but only if you use an emulator, e.g. VMWare Fusion, Parallels, etc. or run Windows 10 under bootcamp on your Mac, and format the flash drive as FAT32. If you do that and place the firmware package update at the root level of the flash drive it will work fine. The problem with using a Mac to format the flash drive, even formatting it with FAT32 on the Mac, is that it places hidden Apple files on the flash drive which cause the Sony 665ES to reject the firmware update.

Tom
 

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Ok, Sounds complicated. LOL. I have PC at work.
Anything special I need to do? I downloaded the file folder that contains the file on USB stick. The projector wont update.

You can install the latest firmware for the 665ES with a Mac, but only if you use an emulator, e.g. VMWare Fusion, Parallels, etc. or run Windows 10 under bootcamp on your Mac, and format the flash drive as FAT32. If you do that and place the firmware package update at the root level of the flash drive it will work fine. The problem with using a Mac to format the flash drive, even formatting it with FAT32 on the Mac, is that it places hidden Apple files on the flash drive which cause the Sony 665ES to reject the firmware update.

Tom
 

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Ok, Sounds complicated. LOL. I have PC at work.
Anything special I need to do? I downloaded the file folder that contains the file on USB stick. The projector wont update.
If you have access to a PC, then format your USB drive as FAT32. Follow the directions on Sony’s web site and make sure the firmware update is installed at the highest (root) level of your USB flash stick. If the projector still will not update, try a different USB stick. The procedure is not complicated, but you must follow Sony’s instructions exactly and some USB sticks for whatever reason do not seem to work.
 

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Thank you very much! I will try that.



If you have access to a PC, then format your USB drive as FAT32. Follow the directions on Sony’s web site and make sure the firmware update is installed at the highest (root) level of your USB flash stick. If the projector still will not update, try a different USB stick. The procedure is not complicated, but you must follow Sony’s instructions exactly and some USB sticks for whatever reason do not seem to work.
 

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When streaming movie from Apple TV in 4K I get HDR in my calibrated Reference and User modes.
But when I play something from Amazon Prime ( Hanna ) or Netflix - I have to switch to non HDR mode ( like TV or Bright Cinema ) as the picture becomes overly saturated and red.
Anyone knows if I'm missing something?
 

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When streaming movie from Apple TV in 4K I get HDR in my calibrated Reference and User modes.
But when I play something from Amazon Prime ( Hanna ) or Netflix - I have to switch to non HDR mode ( like TV or Bright Cinema ) as the picture becomes overly saturated and red.
Anyone knows if I'm missing something?
In the setup of your Apple TV make sure that you have Match Frame Rate and Match Resolution turned on. Most movie content is 24 fps and the Apple TV will send this as 24 fps to your 665 and it will play fine with HDR since 24 fps 4K + HDR is within the 10.2 Gb bandwidth of the 665. However without turning on Match Frame Rate and Match Resolution on your Apple TV, the streaming content from Amazon and Netflix is sent at 60 fps and will be beyond the bandwidth of your 665 to display properly. Also make sure that you have HDR on the 665 set to Auto. If you are in doubt about what is being sent to your 665, go to the "info" in the 665 menu and look at the frame rate and resolution. HDR on the 665 must be at no higher frame rate that 24 fps and the resolution must be UHD for HDR content. Note also that when you select streaming content on Amazon or Netflix pay careful attention to whether it says UHD or not. Amazon, especially makes it confusing because a lot of their streaming content is posted at both 4K UHD and HD. You must select the 4K UHD version to get HDR.

Tom
 

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Im trying to do panel alignment for my sony 520es / 665es projector and i can’t seem to align the blue lines completely. I already tried with shift and zone but can’t get the blue lines to align properly. Is my projector already deffective or is it normal?
 

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Im trying to do panel alignment for my sony 520es / 665es projector and i can’t seem to align the blue lines completely. I already tried with shift and zone but can’t get the blue lines to align properly. Is my projector already deffective or is it normal?
Hi.
You cannot adjust the blue panel. Only the red and green in relation to the blue.

I suggest resetting the alignment in the user menu and then waiting for an hour or two for the projector to warm up properly before performing any alignment.

Try to avoid using zone alignment if at all possible.

Can you post some pictures of what you are seeing?
 

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Hi.

You cannot adjust the blue panel. Only the red and green in relation to the blue.



I suggest resetting the alignment in the user menu and then waiting for an hour or two for the projector to warm up properly before performing any alignment.



Try to avoid using zone alignment if at all possible.



Can you post some pictures of what you are seeing?


In my menu I can adjust the RED “R” and BLUE “B” lines. The Green line is fixed as far as I remember.

Why is it not recommended to use “zone” alignment? What if the “shift” wouldn’t make all the Red and Blue lines aligned?

I will try to do it again and let projector warm up first. I think I was not able to do this before. Thanks for the inputs.
 

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In my menu I can adjust the RED “R” and BLUE “B” lines. The Green line is fixed as far as I remember.

Why is it not recommended to use “zone” alignment? What if the “shift” wouldn’t make all the Red and Blue lines aligned?

I will try to do it again and let projector warm up first. I think I was not able to do this before. Thanks for the inputs.
Sorry, I meant the green panel.
using zone alignme t can cause all sorts of processing anomalies and can break one to one pixel resolution. so avoid if at all possible.
There are a couple of service menu tweaks you can do if you cannot get the R&B aligned satisfactorily.
Be aware it will never be perfect either. Such is the nature of three chip designs.
Also bear in mind what you are seeing may be chromatic aberration from the lens, not misalignment.
Let us know your got get on and pics would help if possible.
 

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I have a very odd issue with my VPL-VW665ES and I'm not sure what to do. Basically, if I leave the unit plugged in after shutting it down (red light stays on), it will get to a point where I cannot turn it on at all - not with the remote or the power button. Unplugging it and even leaving it unplugged for 10 minutes or more then plugging it in won't resolve the issue.

However, if I unplug the unit after use and then replug it in the next time I want to use it, it will go through it's couple click startup sequence and it turns on every time. I've verified this over several weeks now after spending countless hours of frustration not knowing that the above steps could be used as a workaround. I even sent the unit in once to Sony under warranty before I knew this and of course, they just plugged it in and said it looks fine. I didn't know at the time it would need to stay plugged in to produce the issue I was having.

So my questions are:
1) What is going on?
2) Is it safe to just live with the inconvenience of having to unplug it after use so I don't have to send it off again?
 

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haven't checked in this thread in a long time.

I just replaced my bulb for the second time. I know the specs say 6000 hours but twice now the bulb shows obvious low brightness after 4200 or so hours. Probably because I use it on max brightness for all UHD and 3D content. Low brightness for all TV channels.

I buy the bare bulb and install it in the lamp assembly as that is much lower cost.



TaurineFueled- My guess is that the projector is in protection mode due to heat. It wants to keep the fans running to cool things down ( flashing green light ) If you unplug the projector after shutting it off the fans do not run and heat can cause damage. I operate my 665 on a UPS that prevents it from going out during a power outage. It's big enough to run the projector for 30 minutes at full brightness. Plenty of time to power it down normally.

It's a bad idea to kill the power to the projector without letting it run through it's cool down period, I believe. I've heard of other projector owners using a main power switch to shut things down. Some components should be left plugged in, such as the satellite receivers and DVR's in addition to the projector. Another thing to check is if the projector's vents are blocked with dust. This can lower fan efficiency and cause heat buildup.

You might also consider reflashing your firmware with the latest updates. I recall there were two? updates I did on my projector.
 
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There is always power to the projector and I know what you are talking about - in fact I now wait until that completes and the flashing green light turns red and the fans shut down before pulling the plug. The light when it won't power on is red and sometimes you will hear something trying to click when you hit power, sometimes nothing. Randomly I'll also get the two red light blinking, but that's very intermittent... however no fans are running and this could be after days since it was last turned on. All I know is if I leave it plugged in, I can expect this to happen everytime - it started intermittently over months and now it's consistent. I'm contacting Sony now as well... I think I'm on one firmware before this latest one, but I might try the newest one after seeing what they say.

haven't checked in this thread in a long time.

I just replaced my bulb for the second time. I know the specs say 6000 hours but twice now the bulb shows obvious low brightness after 4200 or so hours. Probably because I use it on max brightness for all UHD and 3D content. Low brightness for all TV channels.

I buy the bare bulb and install it in the lamp assembly as that is much lower cost.



TaurineFueled- My guess is that the projector is in protection mode due to heat. It wants to keep the fans running to cool things down ( flashing green light ) If you unplug the projector after shutting it off the fans do not run and heat can cause damage. I operate my 665 on a UPS that prevents it from going out during a power outage. It's big enough to run the projector for 30 minutes at full brightness. Plenty of time to power it down normally.

It's a bad idea to kill the power to the projector without letting it run through it's cool down period, I believe. I've heard of other projector owners using a main power switch to shut things down. Some components should be left plugged in, such as the satellite receivers and DVR's in addition to the projector. Another thing to check is if the projector's vents are blocked with dust. This can lower fan efficiency and cause heat buildup.

You might also consider reflashing your firmware with the latest updates. I recall there were two? updates I did on my projector.
 

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Sorry, I meant the green panel.
using zone alignme t can cause all sorts of processing anomalies and can break one to one pixel resolution. so avoid if at all possible.
There are a couple of service menu tweaks you can do if you cannot get the R&B aligned satisfactorily.
Be aware it will never be perfect either. Such is the nature of three chip designs.
Also bear in mind what you are seeing may be chromatic aberration from the lens, not misalignment.
Let us know your got get on and pics would help if possible.

See attached photos. So i reset my panel and tried to adjust with SHIFT. I cannot get them to align properly, blue and red are still way off.

Should I use “ZONE” alignment to make it as close as possible?

Any way I can fix this? Or is my projector bad already?






 

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See attached photos. So i reset my panel and tried to adjust with SHIFT. I cannot get them to align properly, blue and red are still way off.

Any way I can fix this? Or is my projector bad already?






Thanks for posting those up.

That looks like bad physical alignment to me. Not going to be correctable from the menus as the lines are not even parallel.

Is your unit still under warranty? How long have you had it?

Even if it is not under warranty it may still be worth contacting your dealer or Sony Prime Support directly.

My guess is they would want to swap the entire optical block as they don't tend to root around to realign stuff like that. If paying for such, it will be expensive. Probably replacing your projector would be more cost effective, expensive. :eek:
 
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