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I noticed that the loud (33db?) fan levels are equal to my ear both in the 3D setting and also when bulb setting is put into "standard" mode vs the low mode. Not sure if this is useful to anyone else, but had been a question of mine while back. I simply leave on the low mode which is so much more pleasant since I don't notice the subtle fan sound now.
 

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I've had this projector now for over one year. Have had no issues other than of my own error. Out of nowhere (I'm pretty sure vs. something I inadvertently did) I noticed now that both blue rays and television is now "clipped" on top and bottom so its essentially a vertically shortened picture. does fill across horizontally and otherwise looks normal. I first noticed watching blue rays that normally fill the entire 105" screen and then basketball games that clip the score, etc. Nothing looks "stretched" though. I'm asumming this must be easy fix somewhere in picture settings but I cannot for the life of me find the correction. Anyone able to help?


thanks!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by nystad  /t/1379900/owners-thread-for-mitsubishi-hc7800/330#post_24246832


I've had this projector now for over one year. Have had no issues other than of my own error. Out of nowhere (I'm pretty sure vs. something I inadvertently did) I noticed now that both blue rays and television is now "clipped" on top and bottom so its essentially a vertically shortened picture. does fill across horizontally and otherwise looks normal. I first noticed watching blue rays that normally fill the entire 105" screen and then basketball games that clip the score, etc. Nothing looks "stretched" though. I'm asumming this must be easy fix somewhere in picture settings but I cannot for the life of me find the correction. Anyone able to help?


thanks!

I'm guessing you hit the 'ASPECT' button on the remote. Mine's not on right now, but I believe mine is set to Auto.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by nystad  /t/1379900/owners-thread-for-mitsubishi-hc7800/330#post_24246336


I noticed that the loud (33db?) fan levels are equal to my ear both in the 3D setting and also when bulb setting is put into "standard" mode vs the low mode. Not sure if this is useful to anyone else, but had been a question of mine while back. I simply leave on the low mode which is so much more pleasant since I don't notice the subtle fan sound now.

If your theater room has controlled light level you should be able to do just fine in low mode. You will also get longer bulb life. The lamp is run at a higher power level in 3D or standard mode to make the image brighter to respectively compensate for 3D glasses tinting or high ambient light levels.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvh4  /t/1379900/owners-thread-for-mitsubishi-hc7800/270#post_23518217


I started noticing this issue. At times for like 2 seconds. The picture gets really choppy. It seemed like it happened on every puck drop during the hockey playoffs. I started noticing the choppiness or some panning shots and slow motion. This only happens watching cable. Blue rays and streaming are perfect. Comcast denies any fault. Any ideas?

hello there .. i got th same proplem u descripe here .. did u fix it ?
 

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Is there anyone making the custom dual IR/RF cables that WichitaT and mstarks3d had? I've been trying to track one down but have had no luck so far.


Thanks!

- Berbs
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustmeF  /t/1379900/owners-thread-for-mitsubishi-hc7800/180#post_22496112



I tested the glasses,

the blue fringing is Crosstalk,


the solution is simply to connect the glasses to a computer,

adjust the bottom slider about 40 clicks to the left, and voila... no more crosstalk.

Leave the top slider as it is


just put a movie at pause and adjust the slider til the picture looks good.


btw. putting the sync at reverse, helped with my problem :)
My current setting is 

on 7800D: 3D sync: Reverse

X104 - 3D Sync protocol: LG

Close Delay: -40

 

I'm still having good amount of blue ghosting (crosstalk). I've tried adjusting the open delay & close delay, but the crosstalk still exists. can someone help me with their settings. 
 

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Hi,

do you see any diffrence when adjusting the settings?



it is also very important not to use the auto recognise mode when turning on the glasses.





JustmeF
 

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Yes the size & position of the ghost image changes as I change the opening & closing shutter delay.

I've set the closing delay as -40 as you suggested in the forum, but crosstalk still exist.

I've tried diff settings. but not able to get rid of it completely.

 

Btw my sync protocol is set to LG & set to reverse. Even auto setting recognize as LG.

Samsung/Mitsubishi & Panasonic doesn't seems to be working
 

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I've read through a lot of the posts here and it seems like there is no off the shelf replacement for the original HC7800 glasses. I've found myself not using the 3D because the glasses are just so bad. Correct me if I'm wrong on a replacement pair. Willing to spend what it take to get something else but somewhat lost with the solutions being discussed. Already thinking about another projector.

Thanks!
 

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I've read through a lot of the posts here and it seems like there is no off the shelf replacement for the original HC7800 glasses. I've found myself not using the 3D because the glasses are just so bad. Correct me if I'm wrong on a replacement pair. Willing to spend what it take to get something else but somewhat lost with the solutions being discussed. Already thinking about another projector.

Thanks!
I think the issue is that Mitsubishi makes it difficult for you to use any other brand of glasses. Their 3D out port is 5 pin-based which means most 3rd party emitters can't run natively off of it without some sort of adapter.
 

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I've read through a lot of the posts here and it seems like there is no off the shelf replacement for the original HC7800 glasses. I've found myself not using the 3D because the glasses are just so bad. Correct me if I'm wrong on a replacement pair. Willing to spend what it take to get something else but somewhat lost with the solutions being discussed. Already thinking about another projector.

Thanks!
I think the issue is that Mitsubishi makes it difficult for you to use any other brand of glasses. Their 3D out port is 5 pin-based which means most 3rd party emitters can't run natively off of it without some sort of adapter.
The very inexpensive rechargeable Sony IR PS3 3D glasses work with the Mits 7900/8000, so maybe they work with the 7800. The Mits 7900/8000 has a button on the remote which cuts the IR signal from the emitter so you can operate other equipment. Just hit the button again and the emitter is reconnected.
 

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The very inexpensive rechargeable Sony IR PS3 3D glasses work with the Mits 7900/8000, so maybe they work with the 7800. The Mits 7900/8000 has a button on the remote which cuts the IR signal from the emitter so you can operate other equipment. Just hit the button again and the emitter is reconnected.
Interesting information so thanks for the replies. I wouldn't mind investing in a solution that needs to be modified if the success rate is high and the usability of the glasses are good. The original glasses work fine they are just way too heavy and the lens is way too small.

PS3: I have a pair of PS3 glasses somewhere so maybe I'll search for them and see if that would work. Haven't read anything about PS3 glasses and the HC7800 though.
 

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The very inexpensive rechargeable Sony IR PS3 3D glasses work with the Mits 7900/8000, so maybe they work with the 7800. The Mits 7900/8000 has a button on the remote which cuts the IR signal from the emitter so you can operate other equipment. Just hit the button again and the emitter is reconnected.
What is the label of this button on the 7900 remote? I don't think that 7800 has this functionality.

https://translate.google.ca/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cine4home.de%2Ftests%2Fprojektoren%2FMitsubishi_HC7800%2FBrillen%2FHC7800%2520Brillen.htm&edit-text=

The emitter shown in the above linked article for the 7800 looks identical to the emitter used for the 7900/8000. In the menu for the 8000 under 3D there is an option to use the Mits glasses or other glasses. I'm not sure whether or not the 7800 has that option.
The emitter and the 3D glasses, are exactly the same. But this option doesn't exist in the 7800 menu.

Me, as a happy owner of the 7800 projector, I have built the custom adapter from 5-pin DIN to 3-pin DIN and bought three pairs of Optoma 3d glasses. Great alternative to the more expensive and bulkier, but better 3d view, Mits glasses.
 

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What is the label of this button on the 7900 remote? I don't think that 7800 has this functionality.



The emitter and the 3D glasses, are exactly the same. But this option doesn't exist in the 7800 menu.

Me, as a happy owner of the 7800 projector, I have built the custom adapter from 5-pin DIN to 3-pin DIN and bought three pairs of Optoma 3d glasses. Great alternative to the more expensive and bulkier, but better 3d view, Mits glasses.
I wouldn't mind doing the same because my current glasses just aren't going to do. Is it laid out somewhere what to buy and how to create the custom solution? Not too worried about cost just want the best solution for viewing 3D on the 7800.

Thanks for the direction!
 
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