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This is working as designed. For accuracy of image, you set it to Medium. If you care more about blooming, you want it set to High.
I agree, it's probably as Sony intended.

I would also add that Medium is the setting you want to choose for the brightest HDR. If you have letterbox bars on a movie and notice too much flashlighting from the corners of your tv, or the bars seem too gray, then that might be the one time to go ahead and use High (but I usually don't).
 

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Luckily I don't notice blooming even on Medium, just sometimes larger black patches exhibit that ever so slight backlight glow, but even that's only noticeable in a completely dark room. I just find it strange the High setting screws with the white color balancing and not just brightness...

P.s. I'm just being nit-picky, I still love this set and think it's one of the best you can get at this price!
That's why the settings are there, to adjust to your liking.
Knowing what the 'right' settings are supposed to be is good... But if you prefer something different, then it's your choice.

Know back in the day the 'right' brightness and contrast made for a pretty dark picture... Usually ended up cranking them up a couple notches (way down from torch mode, but still up from calibrated).
 

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Guys i have a really bad feeling about this 4k 120HZ issue. When i updated my TV a few weeks back manually the patchlog said:

„activates support for 4K 120Hz“

Now it says

„activates support for 4K 120Hz signals FOR PS5“
There may be a glitch or two when these gaming systems come out. What do you all think?
 

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Anyone else experiencing random reboots, frozen screens, and clicking noise from time to time after the update? Driving me nuts on my 2 week old TV.
 

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I wish they would figure out the motion bug !
Put motion and other settings on AUTO. This TV has great motion interpolation which is AI enhanced. There is no blurry trails nor soap opera effects like on older TV's. It works great and I leave it on.

I agree, it's probably as Sony intended.

I would also add that Medium is the setting you want to choose for the brightest HDR. If you have letterbox bars on a movie and notice too much flashlighting from the corners of your tv, or the bars seem too gray, then that might be the one time to go ahead and use High (but I usually don't).
There is no difference HDR brightness in medium or high backlight setting. I measured with my X-Rite i1 Display Pro. Same 600-700 nits on my TV. If you want higher HDR, you set the contrast enhancer to high and max out the other settings.
 

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Anyone else experiencing random reboots, frozen screens, and clicking noise from time to time after the update? Driving me nuts on my 2 week old TV.
On the TV go to Settings > Remote Control > RS232 > and change the type to "serial."

TV will reboot and that should solve the random power ons. There is a bug with the TV and it defaults to HDMI and Off doesn't seem to work.
 

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On the TV go to Settings > Remote Control > RS232 > and change the type to "serial."

TV will reboot and that should solve the random power ons. There is a bug with the TV and it defaults to HDMI and Off doesn't seem to work.
I dont have these in my settings

I don't have that setting either i have EU model i found some rs232 settings in different location but it had only hdmi and off no serial option and it didn't help with clicking when changed to off.
 

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I don't have that setting either i have EU model i found some rs232 settings in different location but it had only hdmi and off no serial option and it didn't help with clicking when changed to off.
Same, i toggled off to see if any difference. Will update.
 

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Same, i toggled off to see if any difference. Will update.
You can try enabled Simple IP Control > ON (or something similar) to see if that helps. Similar function to the RS232 function.
 
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European models have the settings here:
Settings -> Watching TV -> External Inputs -> Advanced Settings -> RS232 Control (Off or HDMI)
 

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SNIP-
There is no difference HDR brightness in medium or high backlight setting. I measured with my X-Rite i1 Display Pro. Same 600-700 nits on my TV. If you want higher HDR, you set the contrast enhancer to high and max out the other settings.
Sorry but I have to disagree on this. This might be true full field but using contrast checkerboard measurements or in real scene content where dimming zones are involved in keeping blacks "black" the ALD Settings of High clamps down on brightness. For example, the attached HDR video scene of the egg at the16 second mark demonstrates this to the eye easily if you toggle between High and Medium. When measured, you'll find that High drops the peak highlight on the egg by @18%, 219 nits down to 178.
 

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You can try enabled Simple IP Control > ON (or something similar) to see if that helps. Similar function to the RS232 function.
Toggled simple ip on still got the clicking noise.
European models have the settings here:
Settings -> Watching TV -> External Inputs -> Advanced Settings -> RS232 Control (Off or HDMI)
Yes i found the RS232 options on eu version but we are missing the serial option which has said to help with clicking the hdmi and off option doesn't help with that. If you were just telling where the options were then yes they are there.
 

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Vincent posted a new video and made another comment about making a video with Sony's statement, I wished he'd just release it already XD
 

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Vincent posted a new video and made another comment about making a video with Sony's statement, I wished he'd just release it already XD
It's annoying, and it makes me think it's bad news. You don't delay good news in today's society.
 

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That's why the settings are there, to adjust to your liking.
Knowing what the 'right' settings are supposed to be is good... But if you prefer something different, then it's your choice.
The great news is, if you copy your original settings down, you can always go back to were you where.......
 

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Sony 65x900h, Yam RXV6A, Klipsch RP8000F, RP504C, RP500SA, RP600M, SMSL SU8, MD THXAAA789, SennHD6XX
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So I'm trying to compare some hdmi cables (recently received some zeskit cables) and I'm having trouble figuring out how to get the sony tv to confirm it's receiving a dolby vision signal.

I'm playing through an nvidia shield connected directly to hdmi4. I have the external inputs set to enhanced mode, with the setting selected for dolby vision of course.

In the nvidia shield, display preferences, I normally have it set at the dolby vision 4k mode where it was 60hz or 59.940hz, and I've tried the 23.976 as well. Same thing, I'm not seeing dolby vision logoed on the tv.

The dolby vision chameleon video at Dolby Trailers – ATMOS, Lossless TrueHD 7.1, AC3 5.1 always looked a little funny to me in the box where dolby vision was selected, the colors always appeared really saturated. I just didn't worry about it, movies looked fine.

Since I'm scrutinizing video quality of cables, I wanted to confirm the tv was receiving a dolby vision signal. If I press the display button on the remote, I never see anything mentioning dolby vision. Just hdr10.

I also notice there's a sharp snapping sound coming out of my speakers whenever I stop playing the video, and the color of the chameleon changes briefly, whenever I'm exitting the video.

I'm really dubious about these zeskit cables right now, but I'm curious if there's a dolby vision related setting I'm missing?
 

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rtings has updated the tv review with the HDMI 2.1 retest. 4k @ 120hz 6.7ms lag and 1440p 120hz is still showing N/A
this is the most important part (besides them confirming 6.7ms lag at 4K-120):

"The Sony X900H supports most common resolutions, except for 1440p @ 120Hz. It properly displays 4k @ 120Hz and doesn't skip frames. Chroma 4:4:4 is supported at all resolutions, and only requires that you be in 'Game' or 'Graphics' mode. However, text still looks a bit blurry with chroma 4:4:4 at 4k @ 120Hz, as you can see in this photo "


so rtings confirms some blur at 4K-120
 
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