MoneyMINTR,
This oxidized copper is indeed a problem if you attach a cable to a binding post with this "cupric oxide" already present on the wire.
But, if you strip back the insulation and expose clean shiny copper wire and then tighten down the binding post on this fresh area you are essentially creating an air tight crimp at the "point of contact" between the wire and binding post.
This area will remain a good joint indefinitely, just as a crimp will remain a good joint even if all the wire around it oxidizes. It's only the joint contact that is important, the oxidation on the rest of the cable is of no concern other than it may be unsightly.
Now if your inclined to remove that wire from the binding post at a later time, you have compromised this seal and you really should strip back to new wire again.
This is kind of annoying, so if you're the kind of guy that removes his speaker wires very often, then I would recommend soldering or crimping some banana plugs on the ends.
brucek
This oxidized copper is indeed a problem if you attach a cable to a binding post with this "cupric oxide" already present on the wire.
But, if you strip back the insulation and expose clean shiny copper wire and then tighten down the binding post on this fresh area you are essentially creating an air tight crimp at the "point of contact" between the wire and binding post.
This area will remain a good joint indefinitely, just as a crimp will remain a good joint even if all the wire around it oxidizes. It's only the joint contact that is important, the oxidation on the rest of the cable is of no concern other than it may be unsightly.
Now if your inclined to remove that wire from the binding post at a later time, you have compromised this seal and you really should strip back to new wire again.
This is kind of annoying, so if you're the kind of guy that removes his speaker wires very often, then I would recommend soldering or crimping some banana plugs on the ends.
brucek
