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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am trying to make a screen and would like to paint it. The frame will be wood covered with velvet.


1. The projector is 14 feet from the screen

2. The screen size is 86"x48"

3. Color of walls - Beige


Thanks for the help
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raksun9 /forum/post/19548681


I am trying to make a screen and would like to paint it. The frame will be wood covered with velvet.


1. The projector is 14 feet from the screen

2. The screen size is 86"x48"

3. Color of walls - Beige


Thanks for the help

You cannot place the PJ that far back and stay within the screen size your designating. (..how high is your ceiling, BTW? )

The furthest back you can go is 12' 11" and you don't want to place the PJ at the extreme end of either mounting distance.


At a 14' throw distance the smallest screen you can get at full Zoom is 52" x 93" (107" diagonal)


Even at that size you'll still get 24 fls. The Optoma needs some help in the contrast Dept. so you'll want to paint up at minimum a Neutral Gray surface of no less than 1.0 gain.


Can you consider spraying? Is the wall surface in good, very smooth condition?


How good do you want that bigger image to look? I don't think anything you'll consider will disappoint, but some applications will exceed your expectations if you let them.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by raksun9 /forum/post/19552778


Thanks MM. The throw distance has been fixed at 12'6" and I am able to get a picture of 86x48.


Please advice on the Paint I would need. Thanks

Good man. The Optoma will do a good job at that image size.


Since your spraying, I'd suggest RS-Maxxmudd "Standard".

RS-MaxxMudd (for moderate ambient light)

16 oz. Delta Pearl Metallic #02601 (Michaels)

12 oz. Delta Silver Metallic #02603 (Michaels)

4 oz. Folk Art Champagne Metallic Gold #675 (Michaels)

7 oz. UPW Flat Interior Latex (Premium Plus Ultra) (Home Depot)

16 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish - Water Based (Home Depot)

12 oz. distilled/tap water**

**additional thinning with more water might be required for some HVLP guns...or the use of less water with others.


With this Mix, you should be good to go at Low lamp to further help with deepening those Black Levels.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/0



Good man. The Optoma will do a good job at that image size.


Since your spraying, I'd suggest RS-Maxxmudd "Standard".


RS-MaxxMudd (for moderate ambient light)

16 oz. Delta Pearl Metallic #02601 (Michaels)

12 oz. Delta Silver Metallic #02603 (Michaels)

4 oz. Folk Art Champagne Metallic Gold #675 (Michaels)

7 oz. UPW Flat Interior Latex (Premium Plus Ultra) (Home Depot)

16 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish - Water Based (Home Depot)

12 oz. distilled/tap water**


**additional thinning with more water might be required for some HVLP guns...or the use of less water with others.


With this Mix, you should be good to go at Low lamp to further help with deepening those Black Levels.

I just bought a Optoma TW775 for a large family room with some daylight. Am thinking about paint instead of buying a screen. Using long throw lens about 24 feet from my front wall. Is there a good paint for this?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sullivanjohnh /forum/post/19558430


I just bought a Optoma TW775 for a large family room with some daylight. Am thinking about paint instead of buying a screen. Using long throw lens about 24 feet from my front wall. Is there a good paint for this?


Yes. With that Atomic Laser Light Cannon and a Uber Dark Silver Fire 5.0 Screen (5 ounces colorant to prescribed Mix) you'd be able to give 'Ol Man Sol himself a real battle against intruding sunlight....and come away the winner.



Using Sintra as a Substrate, you can manage a 123" diagonal image (60" x 107")

or go directly onto a White base Wall to your own limit.


This saddles up squarely within the 160" Screens I recently did for some Rugby Clubs in "Merry Old", and all they had to use was 3500 lumens. (only)


However those were shorter throw Optomas using 15' throws.


Even so, they could easily withstand directed 500 watt lamps shining on them from just over 6' away and 5' above the Screen, and in the day, non-direct ambient daylight from a 40' long row of Windows & Doors didn't pose any issue at all.


You got me twitchin'.....
So OK...how big?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have all the paints and will start this morning. The two issues I now have are:


1. I will have to use a roller as the spray gun is too expensive.


2. The wall has some texture. The normal type when you paint a wall.


Should I sand the wall down a bit? Can I use a roller instead?


Please advice.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by raksun9 /forum/post/19562042


I have all the paints and will start this morning. The two issues I now have are:


1. I will have to use a roller as the spray gun is too expensive.

Really? $49.95 is too much for perfection? Well if that is your "final answer" you have to switch to RS-MaxxMudd LL, which is "roll-able" due to the use of a higher amount of UPW.

Quote:
2. The wall has some texture. The normal type when you paint a wall.


Should I sand the wall down a bit? *Can I use a roller instead?


Please advice.
*
I thought you just closed the Door on that subject? It's your decision, I can only advise as to what I personally know is "best".


Tape masking off the desired Screen area + at least 2" additional all around and lightly (...and evenly...) sanding the interior is and always will be a good thing to do. Bumps become hills when a High Contrast paint is used. Smooth is better. Much Mo' Bedder. Take the time to lightly sand the surface evenly until after wiping clean is feels slick. The final Finish Coats should be carefully applied with a very low nap roller, so as to garner as smooth a finish as possible.


I gotta say, (...and all of this is not specifically directed at you...) sometimes as people get closer to actually getting started, they tend to start rethinking what is necessary and make decisions not based upon good advice but rather the desire to exclude a step, an additional cost, or to shorten time frames. Now I can and do understand about "cost", being an avowed DIY'er (...every screen I make I do myself....) but in many things pertaining to "high performance" Screen Painting there are things that should NOT be compromised on.


You would be better off rethinking the rethinking and do things as are known to be optimal. A Big Screen can be righteous, or so very much less than hoped for. It does not take much fudging on any particular aspect of the build to have a overly negative impact on the final end result. In this case, wanting a high performance screen surface, opting out of a Spray application, and putting faith in getting a virtually perfect finish over a very large area. It can be done. But the reason I don't do it myself is that I started out doing exactly that...every time, decrying the need for spraying....but darn if I didn't have "issues" almost every time...in some manner or another....and I spent as much time "correcting" as I did "creating. Over that period I learned a lot...and yes, felt I could roll perfection when needed. I could help others who experienced the same "issues" (roller marks, texture, etc.) overcome them.


Then I sprayed a screen and all that stopped. Brothers & Sisters..., that's what it's all about....the process being easy and having a far greater assurance of success. That's a very good thing when the Mixes are High Performance oriented and the Screens are of prodigious proportions


That is why we/I go to the trouble (time) we do to educate and advise. It's all about helping people realize results they would not otherwise get on their own. Usually. Sometimes the learning reverses...I like that.



Of all the complaints (...a very crazy few though, % wise....) that come up after an attempt that has gone awry, 99% all involve a "fudge" or deviation from suggested method or materials. At least your "asking first", not waiting until the bitter end. So maybe there is still hope?



But as I said before, in the end the decision is in the hands of the End User / Member. But let me add this last zinger;


Ya just gotta know this. In many cases, I'd like to twist arms out of sockets, give a gentle smack upside a head, or shake sense into person who seems to fail to "get it". Not because I'm trying to exert my will (...that's been said before...
) but rather it is important to me to express what I know is to be important, and relevant to a successful conclusion. I've "been there...done that" a couple hundred times...so in that respect I do feel I can stress a few points. But even I can only repeat myself so often.


But never fear...so far I haven't found that limit....



MMan
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieBrotmafia /forum/post/19562812


Originally Posted by MississippiMan you don't want to place the PJ at the extreme end of either mounting distance.


Why is that?

Two very important reasons.

1. "Usually", the extreme ends of the Focal range of a lens will rob from or distort image quality. At the far end, the image loses brightness. Close in, resolution is "widened" and light uniformity might be compromised.


2. If you backed into or thrusting forward to the ends of your Focal range, you leave no room for Zooming adjustments to precisely frame your image within a screen. While this consideration becomes less an issue in the middle ranges, at the ends it means the PJ's location must be "exactly correct" as pertains to the distance from and the size of the Screen. That's a lot harder to do for the Noob...and quite frankly, even if the Lens on a PJ is a great one, I'm just not gonna make things harder for myself than necessary.


When those situations do arise where one must use those extreme ends, then the Screen's performance and/or placement as pertains to the PJ's location must balance well. Compromise can spell failure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was able to get my first painted screen up and going - it looks great.


Two things:


1. I will invest in a spray gun.

2. I will sand the surface down much finer that I did for this.


This is my 7th Projector install and I have used Durotherm, Parkland, BO cloth previously. I can clearly see paint is the way to go. The picture and brightness in a room with ambient light is fantastic.


Could someone point me to a calibration thread for an Optoma HD180 for the RS-Maxxmudd - Standard.


Many thanks in Advance
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/0



Good man. The Optoma will do a good job at that image size.


Since your spraying, I'd suggest RS-Maxxmudd "Standard".


RS-MaxxMudd (for moderate ambient light)

16 oz. Delta Pearl Metallic #02601 (Michaels)

12 oz. Delta Silver Metallic #02603 (Michaels)

4 oz. Folk Art Champagne Metallic Gold #675 (Michaels)

7 oz. UPW Flat Interior Latex (Premium Plus Ultra) (Home Depot)

16 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish - Water Based (Home Depot)

12 oz. distilled/tap water**


**additional thinning with more water might be required for some HVLP guns...or the use of less water with others.


With this Mix, you should be good to go at Low lamp to further help with deepening those Black Levels.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sullivanjohnh /forum/post/0



I just bought a Optoma TW775 for a large family room with some daylight. Am thinking about paint instead of buying a screen. Using long throw lens about 24 feet from my front wall. Is there a good paint for this?

Ok. Thanks.

For wall prep. Should i sand off the old texture or trowel on a new flat one. Sanding with a belt seems better?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sullivanjohnh /forum/post/19675309


Ok. Thanks.

For wall prep. Should i sand off the old texture or trowel on a new flat one. Sanding with a belt seems better?

You'll have to be very precise and use an easy touch with a "Belt Sander. A "Pad" Sander such as a "Mouse" type would be much better.


But yes...you should eliminate all texture. Save the Mud'ding for any gouging or excessively removed paint.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/0



Yes. With that Atomic Laser Light Cannon and a Uber Dark Silver Fire 5.0 Screen (5 ounces colorant to prescribed Mix) you'd be able to give 'Ol Man Sol himself a real battle against intruding sunlight....and come away the winner.



Using Sintra as a Substrate, you can manage a 123" diagonal image (60" x 107")

or go directly onto a White base Wall to your own limit.


This saddles up squarely within the 160" Screens I recently did for some Rugby Clubs in "Merry Old", and all they had to use was 3500 lumens. (only)


However those were shorter throw Optomas using 15' throws.


Even so, they could easily withstand directed 500 watt lamps shining on them from just over 6' away and 5' above the Screen, and in the day, non-direct ambient daylight from a 40' long row of Windows & Doors didn't pose any issue at all.


You got me twitchin'.....
So OK...how big?

Sorry I have been working out of country and have not been thinking about this for a while.


My Optoma is a tw 775.

So i have the projector running and the image size is now 130" diagonal on the rough textured wall. Need to get down to work on the paint. Will fill and sand now.

Earlier you recommended a standard mud mixture, but i don't know if you are suggesting to add Silver fire 5.0. I am a bit confused.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/19559049


Yes. With that Atomic Laser Light Cannon and a Uber Dark Silver Fire 5.0 Screen (5 ounces colorant to prescribed Mix) you'd be able to give 'Ol Man Sol himself a real battle against intruding sunlight....and come away the winner.



Using Sintra as a Substrate, you can manage a 123" diagonal image (60" x 107")

or go directly onto a White base Wall to your own limit.


This saddles up squarely within the 160" Screens I recently did for some Rugby Clubs in "Merry Old", and all they had to use was 3500 lumens. (only)


However those were shorter throw Optomas using 15' throws.


Even so, they could easily withstand directed 500 watt lamps shining on them from just over 6' away and 5' above the Screen, and in the day, non-direct ambient daylight from a 40' long row of Windows & Doors didn't pose any issue at all.


You got me twitchin'.....
So OK...how big?

should be about 110" diagonal.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan
Yes. With that Atomic Laser Light Cannon and a Uber Dark Silver Fire 5.0 Screen (5 ounces colorant to prescribed Mix) you'd be able to give 'Ol Man Sol himself a real battle against intruding sunlight....and come away the winner.



Using Sintra as a Substrate, you can manage a 123" diagonal image (60" x 107")

or go directly onto a White base Wall to your own limit.


This saddles up squarely within the 160" Screens I recently did for some Rugby Clubs in "Merry Old", and all they had to use was 3500 lumens. (only)


However those were shorter throw Optomas using 15' throws.


Even so, they could easily withstand directed 500 watt lamps shining on them from just over 6' away and 5' above the Screen, and in the day, non-direct ambient daylight from a 40' long row of Windows & Doors didn't pose any issue at all.


You got me twitchin'.....
So OK...how big?
About 130" diagonal. But which paint mix is best for the optima tw775? Room has some ambient light. RS maxxmud standard? What is uber dark silver fire 5.0?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sullivanjohnh /forum/post/19908109


About 130" diagonal. But which paint mix is best for the optima tw775? Room has some ambient light. RS maxxmud standard? What is uber dark silver fire 5.0?

RS-MaxxMudd is good for "moderate" ambient light.


The Silver Fire application is "dedicated" to providing exceptional performance in many varied levels of ambient light. To do that, one can add specific amounts of a darkening colorant to a Silvery White Base Mix. That's where the "number" comes in. SF 2.0 is a lighter Silvery Gray screen that uses 2 oz of Colorant. SF 5.0 would use 5 ounces of Colorant...and be quite a dark Gray in comparison.


Darker screens require more lumens, and you certainly have an abundance of that. But just the same, if your ambient light situation is not going to be extreme, RS-MaxxMudd can easily suffice, and it is a somewhat simpler and slightly less costly option.


Both apps require a good, clean, smooth white surface for a substrate. Both require spraying to achieve the desired results.


My actual recommendation would be either SF 3.0 or RS-MaxxMudd standard.

I mentioned SF 5.0 because with your PJ and that level of SF colorant, you could watch content in EXTREMELY high ambient light. But in actuality, you don't want to go any darker than absolutely necessary.


I gotta ask these next questions though.....


1. Why did you choose the TW775?

2. Were your mounting issues so grave you needed such a long throw?

3. Were you aware that the formatting of the TW775 is 16:10?

4. Were you aware that the resolution is only 1280 x 800, far short of true HD?

5. Your attempting to produce a 130" image with that lower resolution might work acceptably with HD content inputted, but anything else will be less than optimal at thaqt size.

6. The TW775 has excessive lumens, a short Bulb Life, and fairly low Contrast, so are you aware how those things will impact your future ownership?


Now nall of the above ...or any of the above does not mean dismissal of the TW775. But they do mean that you must allow for certain peculiarities and requirements. Ventilation for that Monster is important. There's more to consider as well...but lets not delve into those items unless they become relevant.


What's most important now is how your mounting it, how well does the 130" screen area fit your location with such a mounting location, how much ambient light will you actually be dealing with, and do you think you'll be upgrading that PJ in any near time in the Future?
 
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