[Fielding Mellish]

I am currently using a 120” diagonal screen, with a stretched artists canvas as a substrate. It is painted with Sherwin Williams ProClassic smooth enamel Natural Grey.


The slight sheen of the satin finish has created a hot-spot dead center of the screen that is not terribly distracting, but I would love to eliminate.


So here’s the question:


Can I use a spray can-based dulling spray or matte finish sealer to reduce the reflective glare of the ProClassic? Has anybody ever done this to successfully decrease a hot-spot problem?

 

[MississippiMan]

You would be better served by first trying to very lightly sand the entire surface using a Fine Grit Large Sanding Sponge (9" x 3" x1") found in the Drywall Tools section at Home Depot.


Use light, sweeping strokes.

 

[Fielding Mellish]

Thanks

 

[kludd323]

I used the same paint but in white and sanding doesn't seem to be working for me. The hotspotting on mine is so intense and grainy, the projection honestly looks worse than it did before I painted the wall. I can't comprehend how this paint could be recommended for a PJ. Is it due to using a high lumen, short throw PJ that causes it to get so bad?


Should I just try again with a flat paint?

 

[MississippiMan]

Satin should never be used....and the suggestion to do so showed how little the author really grasped the necessities and requirements of applying a correct, well suited paint to be used for Front projection. It was really more like being smply somebody starting from scratch and experimenting under the guise of supposedly being a authoritative source.


It amounted to the entire effort being nothing but misinformation and a obvious avoidance of other known and proven DIY methods. Far too many DIY'ers have suffered as a result, being steered down a wrong path toward poor results. ( Satin was only "ever" used back when PJs had less than 700 lumen output....and it still hot spotted. )


You both would be best served by sanding and resurfacing with SW Duration "Flat White" (...or light Neutral Gray...) Enamel as that would be the easiest, most assured fix.

 

[kludd323]

Alright. Isn't enamel still more glossy than plain flat paint though? Is there really any advantage to having gloss?


I'll consider the SW Duration, but I was looking at this one and wonder if it would work just as well?:

www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-Premium-Plus-1-gal-Ultra-Pure-White-Flat-Zero-VOC-Interior-Paint-105001/202761505

 

[MississippiMan]



Quote:
Originally Posted by kludd323  /t/1523454/painted-screen-and-hotspots#post_24553258


Alright. Isn't enamel still more glossy than plain flat paint though? Is there really any advantage to having gloss?


I'll consider the SW Duration, but I was looking at this one and wonder if it would work just as well?:

www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-Premium-Plus-1-gal-Ultra-Pure-White-Flat-Zero-VOC-Interior-Paint-105001/202761505

The advantage a Flat Interior Enamel has is it's more dense surface,which means it does not allow much if any light to be absorbed. As such, it does have a wee bit more reflectivity than a basic Flat White. What it does not exhibit is any degree of Glossiness. It's a Flat....not a Satin, Eggshell, Semi Gloss or Gloss paint.


Durability is also a side benefit.

 

[kludd323]

So the paint store says duration flat enamel is available only as outdoor paint and suggested duration extra white matte instead. Is that pretty much the same?

 

[ahajr143]

Duration Extra White Matte should be fine.

 

[kludd323]

Okay, thanks for the help.

 

[Fielding Mellish]

Mississippi Man, just wanted to update you... and thank you once again.


Repainted with the Duration Extra White Matte, tinted the same grey as my previous satin paint coverage. I also jumped up a shade darker, since my LCD Epson is a little lacking in the blacks.


The picture I had before was acceptable but never wowwed me. Not the same case, now.


Jaw-dropping image. No hot spots. Acceptable blacks. And definitely worth the effort of dismantling the screen and painting once again.


Much obliged.