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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. I've been lurking for a while trying to figure out how to proceed, but frankly, each day confuses me more.


I'm looking for a DIY solution for a Sanyo PLV-z3000 projector. Light-controlled room. 15' throw (could easily relocate to a 13'), 120" screen. Painted on wall. Have access to a sprayer, but prefer to roll.


Thanks for the help!
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcraigcx /forum/post/16934257


Hey guys. I've been lurking for a while trying to figure out how to proceed, but frankly, each day confuses me more.


I'm looking for a DIY solution for a Sanyo PLV-z3000 projector. Light-controlled room. 15' throw (could easily relocate to a 13'), 120" screen. Painted on wall. Have access to a sprayer, but prefer to roll.


Thanks for the help!


Well then, spray, don't roll....for all the right reasons and best results.


You can use just about any of the advanced Mixes that employ (...or seeming so....) metallic elements, though you'll want to keep to those solutions that hover between 1.0 and 1.3 gain, so you can also use the Low Lamp feature to assist in getting the best possible Blacks out of the Sanyo without using the Iris feature overly much.


The added plus will be even more extended Bulb life and a longer "as high Brightness as possible" as it ages. The Sanyo already has an extended bulb life on Normal, Low Lamp will increase that by almost 40%.
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcraigcx /forum/post/16953037



Is there a list with all the options and associated gains, or do I just keep wading through all the threads?

Well......you could. Some do, and then of course we read comments about "bleeding eyes'....."I'm more confused than ever."......"I can't decide."


The Sticky Threads at the Top of the DIY Screens Forum Thread page can give you some assistance as to knowing what sort of DIY Screens are out there, but it is a general depiction, and not "fact specific".


As far as "facts", there have been some considerable efforts to obtain and present Gain and Munsel figures, but none of it is what could be construed as being "verified' or "Independently validated" by neutral outside sources. Granted, they "should" be closer to fact than fiction, but one cannot take such efforts absolutely for granted or blindly accept them. They can be very useful, but they are not definitive.


I say "Neutral" because we all have our preferences and beliefs as to what makes a DIY Screen as good as...or better than other Screen examples, be they Mfg. or DIY. Comments AND published test results are all driven by some degree by motives and preferences, and unless a totally uninvolved party, capable of, and accredited as being a independent Testing Source does such testing, and provides the data, there can be no real assurances that what is posted is either accurate, done properly, or unbiased. All such privately contributed data in and of itself can be considered only a "guide" by which to help one peruse through all the "eye bleeding" information.


So OK. I'd be remiss not to admit myself that my suggestions and referrals are based on my own everyday use of the DIY Screen applications I advocate and build myself, and that I help others to "Do them themselves" by virtue of contributing my time to this Forum. Beyond that, and the few times I do offer comparative "Visual' tests, I make no effort to test, nor provide no test "Data". To myself, and a great many others, the results both shown by me and experienced by others speak loudly enough.


Things do change however, and a great deal of the discord that has existed between the two camps, (...to publish tests or not...) has created an environment that detracts from the overall purpose behind DIY'ism. Too often has "testing" has served to be a justification by some to discount the "viability" of applications that do not have such data to back up what is being experienced "out of hand".


I personally do not think that any tests results I provide would be looked upon any differently should I present such as backing for any reputed claims, so instead I simply leave the "judgments" up to those who decide to give my suggestion a whirl. If that changes, it will because someone who is unilaterally unbiased does the testing. Sadly though, when that has happened, even then those who were adversely 'reviewed' took offense and discounted the results as well. 'Tis the nature of things these days, and I wish earnestly that it could be different.


By far, the majority of NOOB DIY'ers are aghast at the reams of published information they have to delve into, should they want to make an educated decision. So "most" simply want someone to "Tell Them" what they need. Still others would never make any decision without such information being available. They are fewer in number...but adamant in their requirements and beliefs.


Make no mistake that those who advocate "Tested Applications" are not at all pleased if someone ignores such efforts they've made to justify their suggestions, and who then opt in for a DIY application that stands on it's posted merits alone. Therein lies the true reason for much discord.


So it has to be up to you, the end user...to decide how much effort to expend. It's mostly impossible to check out claims and results between the varying applications by asking for "opinions on another application" from the proponents of a dissimilar application without getting dis-allowances or even abject dismissals of the asked about Screen application. Sometimes, things get far too "personal" and that is saddest of all. Even worse...some Posters do exactly that sort of thing just to watch opposing viewpoints surface and the Fur Fly.



In all such things, usually those who feel the need to disparage someone personally to convince another to use their own suggestions are people to avoid. Those who discount outright all other applications save the ones they advocate usually have an agenda, be it personal or professional...to adhere to. Those who offer up advice and follow through with any help that is requested are the ones who really have the best interests of the DIY'er in mind, not any desire of personal aggrandizement or promotion of their personal choices.


It's hard not to favor one application over another, especially if you believe strongly in that application's attributes. But all the same, if one is to provide "Sage advice", one must also educate themselves as to every possible aspect and criteria that exists on the "End User's" side of the equation, then offer up both their best suggestion, as well as at least a couple other viable alternatives. Screen Size and varying Room criteria can narrow down the playing field to 2-3 choices, or even just a single choice...but usually the latter becomes obvious enough few will interject an opposing viewpoint. When such happens you have to accept the advice given as being correct...or just take a chance and go with your own decision.


As for myself, yes, I "personally" feel my experience gives me an edge on most others that lack such (..and some do not feel that way as well...) , and my advice will often be represented by such feelings. But in the overall outlook, I'm interested in what works best for a DIY'er on EVERY count....and that is what I've always been interested in. And I'm not alone in this belief either. You can readily tell who else feels likewise simply by the tone and content of the posted replies...so use your own judgment....do whatever amount of research you need to do to feel comfortable with any decision you might make....and if in the end an answer still escapes you....just post up requesting a definitive answer and watch the Fur Fly.



OK...I used my response to your second question to make statement. I do that sometimes. OK. Quite often.


Quote:
Thanks MM. Something like? S-I-L-V-E-R?

In your case, with the Z3000 and a 13' throw, S-I-L-V-E-R would seem best so that you could maintain effective brightness. At full lamp output you'd get 18 fl, so at Low Lamp, most likely 14-15 fl. The Sanyo will deliver it's best Contrast at Low lamp, and do so without over use of it's aperture features


You'd have to spray it. And use either a extremely smooth wall surface, or a sizable substrate such a Wilson Art DW, or lastic Signage Sheeting. Some could say that Wilson Art DW alone would be adequate...and in fact it would perform effectively on Full Lamp (15 fl) and adequately on Low Lamp (12-13fl) But it would not give you an ounce of perceived Contrast boosting, nor provide any additional leeway for eventual Bulb degradation.


S-I-L-V-E-R is an exceptional DIY Screen application, one that you could be extremely happy with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As OP, I appreciate both of your responses and have seen similar in other threads. Cleary you both have invested tons of time and energy into this topic and it is much appreciated by those of us (me!) who don't have quite the same passion as you guys. I'm confident the right solution is out there... I'm less confident that I'm going to happen upon in by myself, given the field of information is so vast. I appreciate the help narrowing down the options.


WB - what DIY solution would be recommended from your camp?


Thanks.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcraigcx /forum/post/16957450


As OP, I appreciate both of your responses and have seen similar in other threads. Cleary you both have invested tons of time and energy into this topic and it is much appreciated by those of us (me!) who don't have quite the same passion as you guys. I'm confident the right solution is out there... I'm less confident that I'm going to happen upon in by myself, given the field of information is so vast. I appreciate the help narrowing down the options.


WB - what DIY solution would be recommended from your camp?


Thanks.

I really don't have a 'camp'. I like to determine the right screen type and shade and then go from there.

Based on the parameters you provided, you're looking at around 11fL of brightness for a 120" screen. You're at the cusp of being too dim and definitely could benefit from a light screen, and possibly one with a little gain.


First I strongly recommend you to a baseline calibration to a white reference screen. This isn't as much work as it sounds because most people prime first anyway when they are painting. Kilz2 makes for a quick down and dirty unity gain 'white screen'. The reason I recommend this is so you can see how your projector performs under factory type conditions, and all the projector manufacturers I've spoken to all QC their projectors to a unity gain white screen. You really can't determine whether you improved things or not if you haven't seen the projector setup and calibrated to a white reference. Like I said, this really isn't that much extra work and in the end it gives you a frame of reference to compare things to so you know if you really did improve things or not.


That said, my recommendation is a white screen or an N9 gray, nothing darker than that. The Z3000 does not have separate gain and bias controls for each color, but there are adjustments in the advanced menu for professional calibration. This is one reason why I strongly recommend D65 neutral screens... if the screen is causing a color push on the projected image, depending on the projector and how bad the push is could mean it can't be compensated for. Out of the box the Z3000 tends to have a warm push to the image, so try to avoid screens that are already pushing red.


Since you want a painted option, that rules out laminate screens, although Designer White has a 1.24 gain, went up against the ST130 and meets your screen size requirements.


Painted options abound. Look for anything that is an N9 shade, some that come to mind: (in no particular order)
  1. OTS Neutral gray- Winter Mist mixed in the Valspar Signature Series Matte Finish
  2. CG IV
  3. SILVER
  4. Cream&Sugar


I'd have to go back and check where Mudd fell color wise, but that was also a different mix than what they currently are recommending. MM would have to provide you with that information.


From there I'd suggest reading up on the various method and maybe even ask people that have tried them. Some have actually tried several of the options listed.
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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I still present that S-I-L-V-E-R will offer you the highest degree of overall performance of the bunch with the fewest caveats to deal with.


You can calibrate to a unity gain surface, but the results won't offer you anything more than the noted difference in those settings compared to those needed to achieve the same thing after the next calibration...one that is specifically color neutral. That a difference might exist isn't the terrible thing it's alluded to be. On the contrary, such things are often an advantage when controlled and utilized properly.


Here's the truth of it. You need contrast help....so a white screen is not a consideration. Such a screen cannot do much else but be a reference that provides you with results that are not what you really want or need.
 
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