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I have the picture turned down to like 40 on all of the settings and the pixel orbiter on Auto. What else should I know about the first 100-200 hrs? Thanks
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legionfield /forum/post/14468824


I have the picture turned down to like 40 on all of the settings and the pixel orbiter on Auto. What else should I know about the first 100-200 hrs? Thanks


Keep it in Just or Zoom for all content, i.e. no bars.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fr. John /forum/post/14468865


Keep it in Just or Zoom for all content, i.e. no bars.

Thanks. Does it matter about the different picture settings(I have most or all of them at 40), or do I just need to keep them all at 50 and below? Thanks again. I'm full of questions.....
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fr. John /forum/post/14468307


I can't say much on the subject but the PS3 does an outstanding job of upscaling everything I've thrown at it. I think I'll do some Return of the King screenshots tonight for examples.

The only problem with that is the PS3 does not use the proper SD color matrix when upconverting, and since your TV will see it as a HD source, it won't switch it to the SD color matrix (in fact, it will even be greyed out, not even allowing a manual switch). So your greyscale will be significantly off.


I've heard some upconverters can do the proper color matrix, but I don't know which ones they are. I do know the PS3 is not one of them.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legionfield /forum/post/14469290


Thanks. Does it matter about the different picture settings(I have most or all of them at 40), or do I just need to keep them all at 50 and below? Thanks again. I'm full of questions.....

As did most others, I kept all my settings at 50 or lower for the first 100.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fr. John /forum/post/14469506


As did most others, I kept all my settings at 50 or lower for the first 100.

Thanks. What about temperature setting? Should that be cool, warm, etc? Thanks for your help.....
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fr. John /forum/post/14468377


Likewise. In fact BB had the 42" 85U "on sale" yesterday for nearly $500 more than the price I paid at Big River. I can't believe that place is still in business.

I too am mystified, especially given the generally low knowledge level of the sales staff at BB. I would have happily paid an extra couple of hundred bucks to buy my unit at the local Tweeter store during their recent Panny Plasma sale because I've never been lied to or fed misinformation there, and the staff have helped me make informed buying decisions in the past. But they didn't carry the 46" -- special order only -- so much of the practical advantage melted away.


I guess this is getting a little OT, so let me veer back to marginal relevance with a little rah-rah: I can't say how extremely happy I am with my 46PZ85U. To anyone worrying about whether they'll like the TV, I say: just go buy it already. You'll love it!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legionfield /forum/post/14468824


I have the picture turned down to like 40 on all of the settings and the pixel orbiter on Auto. What else should I know about the first 100-200 hrs? Thanks

Most people set the pixel orbiter to Force and 1 minute. I am not entirely clear on how Pixel Orbiter works -- and from perusing most of the threads on this very long forum, few people are. But that seems to be the general consensus.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric33 /forum/post/14470128


Most people set the pixel orbiter to Force and 1 minute. I am not entirely clear on how Pixel Orbiter works -- and from perusing most of the threads on this very long forum, few people are. But that seems to be the general consensus.

Thanks. How about video games? Is there a big risk of ir and burn-in?
 

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Anyone want to volunteer to comprise a FAQ for the first post?



Questions about IR, size 1/2, break in...etc.


That will help with all the repeat questions.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by LBFilmGuy /forum/post/14471891


Anyone want to volunteer to comprise a FAQ for the first post?



Questions about IR, size 1/2, break in...etc.


That will help with all the repeat questions.

I've thought about it but figured it's been covered so many times....


I'd be happy to do it, I don;t know much but this is a pretty no-brainer subject.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fr. John /forum/post/14472023


I've thought about it but figured it's been covered so many times....


I'd be happy to do it, I don;t know much but this is a pretty no-brainer subject.

LOL nice! I'd do it but I'm being lazy
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric33 /forum/post/14470128


Most people set the pixel orbiter to Force and 1 minute. I am not entirely clear on how Pixel Orbiter works -- and from perusing most of the threads on this very long forum, few people are. But that seems to be the general consensus.

see, if no one really knows how it works, why is that the consensus? wouldnt auto be the consensus?
 

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Panasonic Plasma PZ80/85U Break-In FAQ


PZ80/85u: FAQ Table of Content

1. What’s the difference between the PZ80u and the PZ85u?

2. Should I concern myself with a break-in process for this TV?

3. Is there a recommended setting for my PZ80/85u after break-in How can I go about optimizing my settings?

4. Should I worry about image retention or burn-in with this TV?



1. What’s the difference between the PZ80u and the PZ85u? Credit to Petrong1186 for this section & other contributions.

There are several differences between the PZ80u and PZ85u:

- The stated native contrast ration of the PZ80u is 20,000:1. vs 30,000:1 for the PZ85u.

- The PZ85U includes a PC (Mini D-sub 15-pin) input while the PZ80U does not.

- The 3rd set of additional inputs (a 3rd HDMI, S-video in, component video in and audio L/R in) is located in the front of the PZ80u as opposed to the side on the PZ85u.

- Because of the different locations of the additional inputs between the PZ80u and the PZ85u, and different locations of the internal speakers, the two units have different bezels.

A word about contrast ratios: While Panasonic states there is adifference between the PZ80u and the PZ85u many people claim there is no discernable difference between the two sets. Many here at the AVS forums attribute the difference in stated native contrast ratio to the C.A.T.S (Adjusts the brightness and gradation accordingly to optimize contrast) video-processing feature on the PZ85u. The consensus of professional calibrators who have calibrated a PZ85u recommend turning this feature off. UPDATE: Confirmed, the 85u is Native 30,000:1 with CATS turned off, see confirmation info here .

The PC input does not display at the native resolution of the TV. Because of this, many people choose to run their computer through a HDMI port in order to display at the native resolution of the TV. If you can live with a stretched out image, than the PC input may be enough for you. However, if you plan on watching HD content from your computer to you PZ85u, you will need to use an HDMI from computer to TV in order for the video to display at the native resolution of the TV.


2. Should I concern myself with a break-in process for this TV?

Panasonics official break-in info can be found here .


A more model specific regimen gleaned from this website follows:


First 100 hrs.:
Service Menu Time Counter instructions here .


Break-in DVD/SD card 24hr/day when your not watching TV, this makes the 100 hrs go by much quicker (get it here ). Using the SD version saves wear on your DVD player. Make sure to set the picture viewer to slide show with no time limit. Be sure to turn off No Signal Shut Off and No Action Shut Off under the advanced Set-Up menu if you are going to run the slide show.


Viewing:



Aspect: Just or Zoom (no bars)

Games: Keep it to a minimum (no 2+hours of same game, HUD, etc)

TV: Mix up your viewing to avoid long periods on the same channel with tickers or station logos

Don't leave anything Paused for extended periods (15 minutes is a good rule). Same with static images (DVR menu, etc.)
A word about bars: "Burn-in," and/or image retention (see below), is an uneven aging of the phosphors in a display device. Such uneven aging happens when bright, static images are left onscreen for an extended period of time, which can leave a visible "shadow" effect. In the context of bars, either vertical bars (4:3 content) or horizontal bars (typically any widescreen content of a ratio greater than 1.85:1), the lack of content in the bars area exempts these phosphors from being aged at the same rate as the phosphors in use. The general consensus is to avoid any bars during the initial break in period, i.e. the Just or Zoom modes recommended above. After this period however the consensus gets a bit less defined. The rule I follow, as do some others I believe, is simple, I watch pretty much all 4:3 content, even HD feeds, in Just mode, simply for the fact that most 4:3 content isn't typically critical or reference level material (there are of course exceptions to this, particularly many of the pre-Cinemascope classics) . I watch all widescreen content (1.78:1, 1.85:1, 2.20:1, etc) in FULL mode with bars, this includes both HD & SD content. I've yet to experience any IR.



Picture Settings:


Cinema mode

Picture: 50 or less

Brightness: 50 or less

Color: no matter

Tint: no matter

Sharpness: no matter

Color Temp: no matter

Color MGT: OFF

X.V. Color: OFF

C.A.T.S.: OFF*


Advanced Picture:


Video NR: OFF

3D Y/C: OFF

Color Matrix: HD

MPEG NR: OFF

Black Level: Light

HD Size: 1 (slightly overscanned)**

Pixel Orbiter set to Auto or Force 1


*The C.A.T.S feature in only available on the PZ85u

**A word about size 1 vs 2: This is only a concern with HD channels. Most OTA HD channels do not utilize full 100% pixel and therefore have color bars running vertically, usually on the left side (these bars can be pronounced or little more than a thin line). For this reason these TVs have the size 1 option which is very slightly "zoomed" in, it's about 97% of the image and gets rid of those annoying bars. When gaming and watching blu rays/HD DVDs one should always utilize the full pixel size 2 option for maximum resolution potential.


3. Is there a recommended setting for my PZ80/85u after break-in? How can I go about optimizing my settings? The simple, short, and easy solution is to use the recommended settings in the “ Panasonic PZ80/PZ85 Calibration Thread (Updated first post) ” thread. There you will find a series of recommended settings that members use on their PZ80/85u’s. At the time of this writing, the recommended settings are as follows. (Credit to bpmurr as these are his settings):


Here are my settings using a PS3 via HDMI with DVE Blu-ray and of course by eye. RGB is set to full on the PS3. I have not done anything in the PZ85 service menu.


Cinema settings:

Picture: +70

Brightness: +48

Color: +44

Tint: -3

Sharpness: 0

Color temp: Warm

Color mgmt: Off

x.v.Color: Off

C.A.T.S.: Off


Advanced Picture Settings:

Video N/R: Off

Black level: Light

HD size: Size 1


-----------------------


Standard: - Use for Bright room

Picture: +70

Brightness: +44

Color: +46

Tint: -3

Sharpness: 0

Color temp: Warm

Color mgmt: Off

x.v.Color: Off

C.A.T.S.: Off


Advanced Picture Settings:

Video N/R: Off

Black level: Light

HD size: Size 1


These settings were “calibrated” using a DIY DVD. Calibration is the process of adjusting a picture to comply with standards used in DVD and HDTV production. There are several calibration DVDs available on the market, each one having their own pros and cons. These DVDs offer an inexpensive and (relatively) easy way to improve the picture of your television.


You can also hire a professional calibrator to come to your house and professionally calibrate your television. These technicians use several tools to more accurately calibrate the picture of the TV.


For more information on calibration, please visit the “ Display calibration ” area here at AVSForums.


4. Should I worry about image retention or burn-in with this TV? After the break-in period, there is very little reason to worry about image retention or burn-in (IR/BI) on the PZ80/85u’s. With the advancement of plasma display technology, there is less cause for concern in regards to permanent (even temporary) damage to the screen. The following is a brief and concise description of image retention and burn-in.


IR (Image Retention): You may see some of this, especially in the first few hundred hours if you don't follow the rules (or even if you do follow the rules!). It is not permanent and quite reversible, simply run the white screen or a full screen show for a while.


Burn-In: NOT the same as IR. Permanent. Increasingly harder to produce as Plasma technology improves. Not really a concern unless you really abuse the set.
 

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Looks simple and to the point John. Very nice.


I think we should get a little more specific about the size 1/size 2 because that seems to be most confusing for some people.


First off, it is only a concern with HD channels. Most OTA HD channels do not utilize full 100% pixel and therefore have color bars running vertically, usually on the left side. That is why our TVs have the size 1 option which is very slightly "zoomed" in. It is about 97% of the image and gets rid of those annoying bars.


When gaming and watching blu rays/HD DVDs one should always utilize the full pixel size 2 option.
 

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I also think you might want to mention something in there about 4:3 usage and black bars. While you technically covered that by saying to jsut use zoom, i'm sure some people want to know what is good and bad during break (the presumption though is no/little black or even grey 4:3 bars) and what is fine afterward (some habe implied to keep the 4;3 bars to a minimum, and others have said for this generation you could use black bars and it would be very very hard to make it go out of sync).
 

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nice job john, clarifies I think everything new people need to read

Being new to plasma's here myself, I am very glad I found this site and you guys!

Picture is running great, can't believe how fantastic it is. I got a 50pz80u here.

I will try taking pics and posting them on here when I can.
 
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