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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thanks for all of the info here that I've gotten from lurking. This forum is a great place to learn. I have a question though that I has hoping someone could help me out with.


I have a PT-AX100U with a burned blue out polarizer. It leaves a nasty yellow blob on the screen. I bought the service manual to help me replace it, and am really confused. The service manual as well as the parts store lists two part numbers for this part. TKGP5326 and TKGP5329. There is no identifying mark on the part, so which one do I buy? I'm concerned that there was a part change somewhere in there and the two are not completely interchangeable. Any ideas?


Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
To add insult to injury, I called the parts store and even they can't tell me which polarizer I need. They've forwarded the question to their research department and I'm waiting for a call back.
 

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Hi Koden,


I have the exact same experience with the nasty yellow burn and with the parts store unable to tell me which one I need. My father has the pt-ax100u and I have the pt-ax200u. If you hear anything post it up I'm definitely interested. If I remember correctly from when I checked into it one part is for canadians or something weird like that.


good luck,


-nines
 

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teec0046polarizing plate/in (b)107.80
teec0045polarizing plate/in (g)84.04
teec0044polarizing plate/in (r)79.52
tkgp5326polarizing plate/out (b)93.72
tkgp5329polarizing plate/out (b)87.88
tkgp0035polarizing plate/out (g)156.27
tkgp0036polarizing plate/out (g)156.27
tkgp5280polarizing plate/out(r)79.31
tkgp5281polarizing plate/out(r)79.31
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did finally get a call back from the "research department" and have my projector back to it's pristine original picture.


It appears that there are two sets of LCD panels. The service manual refers to them as combination1 and combination2. As such:


Combo1

Red: L5BDAYY00020 / (L3D07H-65G20)

Green: L5BDAYY00024 / (L3D07H-66G20)

Blue: L5BDAYY00022 / (L3D07H-65G20)


Combo2

Red: L5BDAYY00023 / (L3D07H-66G20)

Green: L5BDAYY00021 / (L3D07H-65G20)

Blue: L5BDAYY00025 / (L3D07H-66G20)


The tech said that if I had panel L5BDAYY00022, then I needed TKGP5326, and if I had L5BDAYY00025, then I needed TKGP5329. My blue LCD panel read L3D07H-66G20 (combo2), so I cross-referenced the numbers and ordered the polarizer. Thankfully I had the service manual which showed both numbers for the LCD.


I can take an educated guess that the second part number of each out polarizing plate is for combination2 of the LCD panels.


The panel itself came out pretty easy, I had to take off the thin metal "crop" plate which was glued on, then cut the polarizer off of the stickey pads it is mounted to (pried it off with an x-acto). I put the new polarizer on the same sticky pads and put everything back together. The burned plate has a big brown spot in the middle and obviously was the culprit. Definitely use tweezers.


I also replaced the in polarizer, the service manual calls it the incidence polarizer to try and fix this a couple months ago. This had a small deformation in the middle, almost like wavy glass. I don't think it was affecting anything much, because it didn't fix my problem. So yeah, a couple hundred bucks blown. The incidence polarizer is much easier to remove than the out polarizer, so I would check that first.


If anyone has any questions let me know.
 

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Man, your post is a life saver. I think I understand what to do.


I pulled mine apart and found the burnt polarizer...






So, let me ask you this; does yours work good now? I read something about lcd would need to be aligned if you mess with it. I pulled mine off, will it work correctly when I just pop it back in place?


Thanks

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Your link doesn't seem to work for me.


My projector works great now. No issues. The LCD block doesn't need to be aligned. It sits on a couple pins and can't be put in wrong. Don't touch the mirrors though, then are sensitive or so I've heard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The service manual is some help, but not necessary.


Once the case has been removed, there is a circuit board in the way. Several connections to it need to be removed before it can be lifted up. The LCD ribbon cables are tricky and need to be released from their connectors carefulley (the connector has a sliding part that will release the cables).


Really starting to wish I had taken some pictures, but a search on these forums should net you some.


Once the circuit board has been removed, you need to remove the LCD block. Both polarizers can then be accessed.
 

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Koden,


A follow-up thank you. After following the same process you described - to get the panel part, identify the polarizer part number, order, and replace the polarizer - I am back in business.


Your post was certainly a huge benefit to me.
 

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I have an Hitachi 50" LCD rear projection TV (model 50V500A) that has a burned Blue polarizer, and Hitachi doesn't sell them separately
. Can someone who has posted here in this thread measure the dimensions ( H x W is mm or inches) of their burned or replacement Panasonic polarizer ? ( "Koden" or "TXJoe" perhaps ?). Mine looks identical to the pic posted by TXjoe of his burned one. Same brownish tint and aspect ratio. Maybe I could use a Panasonic unit as substitute. Part # would be helpful as well. Thanks! Daveyj1
 

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First off, thanks for the thread, this has been very helpful to me. I've got several questions if anyone wants to chime in with some hints.


Which is the IN and which is the OUT polarizer? I'm guessing the IN polarizer is the one nearest the light source (lamp) and the OUT is further along the light path towards the LCD panels.


I have two problems with my image. One, a dark blob that fills %80 of the center of the screen. Two, yellowing in that same %80 area. I had assumed that a burned blue polarizer was the cause of both problems. I opened the projector and found the blue (OUT?) polarizer nearest the blue LCD panel had an obvious rectangular burn pattern. Looking at the other 5 polarizers I didn't see any blemishes. According to Koden's post I needed to order part #TKGP5326 as I fall under the combo1 category. The polarizer arrived last night and I replaced it.


After replacement the image was very blue and I still had the %80 dark blob. Everything was so blue I don't know if the yellowing problem had been resolved or not. I read in another forum that a blue image indicated the polarizer was installed backwards. I flipped the polarizer left to right and still had blue. I flipped the polarizer top to bottom, still blue. Flipped left to right one more time and still blue. So I have exhausted all possible orientations of the polarizer and still get blue (and the %80 blob). Anybody know what might be causing that dark blob if it's not the (OUT?) polarizer?


I compared the old and new polarizers and found the following:

Area of both the glass and polarized section of the new one is slightly less than the old one. Looking down the edge the new one has a raised polarizing film on both front and back surfaces while the old one seems to just have one side with raised film.


I'm starting to think I maybe got the wrong part. The thin copper colored ribbon coming out of the blue LCD panel says L3D07H-65G20. Just to verify I had not broken something I reinstalled the old burnt out polarizer and got lots of blue. Flipped the polaraizer left to right and I was back to normal (yellowed) colors. I'm now back to square one but at least I know I didn't break the projector with all my fiddling around.


My post is getting lengthy but I wanted to be sure I didn't leave out any details that might be a clue to what's wrong. In summary, did I get the wrong part? What are possible causes for the blob?


Any help is appreciated.



Thanks!
 

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Interesting! Sorry to say, I have no clue, but will be going down this road very shortly.


Sometimes the blobs are big dust bunnies.. but I'm pretty sure this isn't the case here and maybe the wrong part was ordered.


Please keep us apprised of the situation.
 

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Two questions:


About how many hours did you have on these projectors when the polarizers failed?


Approximately how much does a replacement cost?


My reason for asking is I have the same projector now at about 1300 hours. (It has had the bearing on the apature replaced) No immediate issues but have been thinking about replacment bulb costs vs a new projector? Considering polarizer concerns as another issue that may have to be dealt with in the future.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Cohen /forum/post/17879721


Two questions:


About how many hours did you have on these projectors when the polarizers failed?


Approximately how much does a replacement cost?


My reason for asking is I have the same projector now at about 1300 hours. (It has had the bearing on the apature replaced) No immediate issues but have been thinking about replacment bulb costs vs a new projector? Considering polarizer concerns as another issue that may have to be dealt with in the future.

Mine started about 3900 or so hours. But I run mine as you would a TV. Weekends it's on 15 hours sometimes at a time. Weekdays 6hrs or so.


Oh.. I forgot to say, mine is on the AX200.
 

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I believe the blob and yellowing started about the same time around 1700 to 1800 hours. At 2000 I reset the hours because it was automatically turning my projector off. I'm now at 800 hours.


The polarizers average $100 each.
 
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