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Holy crap not, you are using a pistol polisher? They are great for small areas and door jams etc but I'm surprised you don't have a full 8".
Not, you should try out the mini woolys for your mini! They are fantastic for small areas. Also not sure if you use one but the blue pads are the compounds pads for the mini, tan is for glaze. Though you likely already know that and were glazing before the pic, just saying in case since the blue pads do twice the work in half the time as the tan with compound.
 

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Holy crap not, you are using a pistol polisher? They are great for small areas and door jams etc but I'm surprised you don't have a full 8".
Not, you should try out the mini woolys for your mini! They are fantastic for small areas. Also not sure if you use one but the blue pads are the compounds pads for the mini, tan is for glaze. Though you likely already know that and were glazing before the pic, just saying in case since the blue pads do twice the work in half the time as the tan with compound.
I have a full 8" electric one, but for little stuff like this I prefer to use what I did. I had the glaze pad on there in the picture. I have wool pads also, but I prefer the foam especially with the roundovers.
 

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Those speakers turned out great, nice workmanship. Your making me jealous. I plan to build a pair this fall. I hope mine turn out even close to this nice.
 

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Great job on the speakers. Look great and seems like a tremendous amount of work. I am also considering a piano or automotive finish but thinking of getting an auto-body shop to do it as I will not be able to set up a dust free room. I am hoping to find somebody to do it for $200-$300 but maybe I'm dreaming.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Great job on the speakers. Look great and seems like a tremendous amount of work. I am also considering a piano or automotive finish but thinking of getting an auto-body shop to do it as I will not be able to set up a dust free room. I am hoping to find somebody to do it for $200-$300 but maybe I'm dreaming.
I think you could find one to do it for that price. I would be worried about the seams though, a body shop would have no experience with wood. I would bondo and sand the box yourself until it's perfect then give it to them. Depending on the size I've heard of prices as low as $50.00 per speaker, I assume those were small speakers though.
 

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I think you could find one to do it for that price. I would be worried about the seams though, a body shop would have no experience with wood. I would bondo and sand the box yourself until it's perfect then give it to them. Depending on the size I've heard of prices as low as $50.00 per speaker, I assume those were small speakers though.
Yeah, I was gonna do the rough prep on my own to save money and probably good idea for the reasons you stated. Did you use the bondo just for defects, all over, or for the seems? If for the seems, how did you do that? I've read about seems showing through with MDF (both painting and veneer) but did not find a solution everyone agreed on that was reasonably simple to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Yeah, I was gonna do the rough prep on my own to save money and probably good idea for the reasons you stated. Did you use the bondo just for defects, all over, or for the seems? If for the seems, how did you do that? I've read about seems showing through with MDF (both painting and veneer) but did not find a solution everyone agreed on that was reasonably simple to do.
I used bondo on the seams, brad nail holes and any part that wasn't perfect. MDF is really smooth so it doesn't really need any on the flat surfaces. Just need to get enough bondo on there so it becomes perfectly smooth and flat after sanding and you can't tell where the seams were.
 

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Bassment,

Very, very nice work you did there.
Congrats and especially enjoy them!
 

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Matte Black DIY stands

Doing the stands a bit differentl











Flush trimmed the edges

So how did you get the tops and bottom attached. Center the best you can then glue and brad nail turn over repeat. I assume they are just 3/4" MDF? I need to go taller then the cinder block (26" total) and was think of using bracing at the top of the cinder block.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
So how did you get the tops and bottom attached. Center the best you can then glue and brad nail turn over repeat. I assume they are just 3/4" MDF? I need to go taller then the cinder block (26" total) and was think of using bracing at the top of the cinder block.
PL premium 3X construction adhesive. The MDF will break before they come off the cement haha. First I put the four pieces of wood around the sides of the cinderblock, just wood glued the MDF to each other with brad nails. Then for the top and bottom I sat the piece on the top of the block, centered it by using a ruler on all 4 sides, drew lines, then removed it, put construction adhesive on the brick and then lined up the MDF with the lines I drew and then put a couple brad nails in. Did the same thing for the bottom piece of MDF.

For the MDF around the sides of the cinderblock you could just make it longer than the cinderblock to the height you need. If you do this I'd glue the cinderblock with PL premium to the side pieces of MDF as well for more strength since your top won't be glued directly to the cinderblock.
 

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I really like your stands. I think I'm going to make some for my 1099's.

How much extra ledge do you have around the speaker? Anything you would do different.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Thanks. I have 1/8 of an inch on each side of the speaker. Make sure you put rubber feet on the speaker so they don't slide off. I rounded over both top and bottom edges of the top piece and the top edges of the bottom piece. Make sure to use a 3/8" roundover on 3/4" MDF. Only thing I'd do differently is I'd paint them with different paint. I don't even know why I bought the benjamin moore impervo it was like 28 dollars for a quart, it doesn't seem any different then normal paint.
 
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