AVS Forum banner

261 - 280 of 523 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,853 Posts
We had a similar problem (trying to fix an existing plaster wall). When we tried to roll the paint on, the existing paint came off and stuck to the roller. It was a mess.


A painter friend of mine knew exactly what the problem was and recommended a product called "plaster-weld" that you put on before the paint. Worked like a charm.


Tim
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,606 Posts
Discussion Starter #264

Quote:
Originally Posted by McCall /forum/post/0


It really sounds like the joint compound was NOT dry all the way through however long it had been drying You could try an oil based agent such as Bin or Kilz then when dry repaint but I would want to be 100% sure that compound was dry remember it is designed to go on very thin and when it is not it can take a LONG time time dry all the way through, also depending on your current atmospheric conditions in the room.

McCall - you called this one. We re-applied the JC sanded it, and let it dry several days. I was going to add the product Tim recomended, but didn't find it at Lowes, and the dealer locator was sparse on vendors by me, so we decided to paint it more time before online ordering what Tim recomended. Primer took to it 100% fine, and the subsequent paint too. Another playroom item knocked off the list.


In other news - been burning up the credit card the last few days (don't worry I pay in full each bill), table saw and rack shelves are on the way. Got good pricing for the rack gear from stayonline.com (beat nineteeninch.com for shelves where I got my rails and door previously) - and great service from amazon on the table saw (pulled me into a promo that came out a day after I placed my order, netting me a free cordless screwdriver). We should be finishing up the playroom and back in the HT soon.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,606 Posts
Discussion Starter #265
I was having trouble with my coax terminations, the connectors kept falling off. Very annoying. I posted a thread in the AV Distrib forum, and got some helpful responses. I took pics on each step, and some one else might find it a handy tutorial:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...php?p=11197788

Quote:
Originally Posted by fedders /forum/post/0


A couple of pointers:


1. Make sure you have the right connector for the coax. Match Quad (4 shields) connectors with Quad coax. Match dual (2 shields) connectors with dual coax.

Check


and check


Quote:
Originally Posted by fedders /forum/post/0


2. Make sure to prep the coax properly. roughly 1/4" to 3/8" of center conductor should stick out out of the white dielectric. 1/4" of foil on the dielectric should be exposed. All braid should be pulled back over the jacket so that all you see is the foil for roughly 1/4".

3/8" for the conductor, 1/4" for the foil (approx)


Quote:
Originally Posted by fedders /forum/post/0


3. Make sure to seat the connector properly. The end of the white dielectric should be flush with the inside of the connector where the threading stops. If you look at the end of the connector, you should see a hole in the middle that is smaller than the threaded part of the connector. This is probably 1/4" from the very end of the connector.

Set in place


Quote:
Originally Posted by fedders /forum/post/0


4. Before you compress the connector, make sure you do not see any loose braid strands near the center conductor. If the connector is seated properly and you are looking at the end, you should see the silver from the connector on the outside, white dielectric in the middle, and the center conductor on the center.


Quote:
Originally Posted by fedders /forum/post/0


5. Compress all the way. Make sure you are using a tool that is matched with your connector. Most compression tools are inter-changeable (in my experience), but some are not.

Rock and Roll


Quote:
Originally Posted by fedders /forum/post/0


6. If you've done all this and you are still easily able to pull the connector off the coax, you may want to look for a different brand of connector.


Hope this helps,


Carl

Doesn't separate!


And the [playroom] tv is working on my wire (the flash made a wierd pattern on the left of the screen, not seen in real life)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,611 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_pilgrim /forum/post/0


Also, Papa has a brand new funk:


Nice!!


I have the same system for the RG6 connectors as well. Works like a charm. My only complaint is that they won't fit the RCA compression connectors (at least the ones I have). Did you see any RCA fittings for the Ideal in your area?


The door on your equipment rack looks great. I'm thinking maybe I should have done that instead of the wood finish
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,606 Posts
Discussion Starter #268

Quote:
Originally Posted by strange_brew /forum/post/0


Nice!!


I have the same system for the RG6 connectors as well. Works like a charm. My only complaint is that they won't fit the RCA compression connectors (at least the ones I have). Did you see any RCA fittings for the Ideal in your area?


The door on your equipment rack looks great. I'm thinking maybe I should have done that instead of the wood finish


Thanks. Never owned a table saw, so I am still figuring out the ins and outs. It is slated for a lot of work cutting ply and MDF into the pieces needed for fabric frames.


I picked my compression tool at HD - I'll check on my next run to see if they have any RCAs.


Glad you like the way the door came out. Its a bit spendy (what isn't), but my wife kind of pushed for it since the rack is in the kids playroom. The benefit of a lock! Before I decided on that I was thinking wood trim too. Too much time in Bud's thread admiring the trim!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,606 Posts
Discussion Starter #269
Well. We reached 95% on the playroom tonight, and we can start to work on the HT again. In the last couple of weeks some more shelves arrived, and I started to rearrange and fill the rack. There are some open spots for the PS3, and DVR, but the amps, receiver, some blanks and the drawer (a 2U drawer for remotes and whatnot - really smooth) are in:


We also scouted some paint for the the crown. We tried a couple different combo's, but the one we like is a base coat of Benjamin Moore's "Stuart Gold" with their [expensive] metallic gold glaze on top. We are going to do the crown and most likely the curved soffit in the front in this color. The rest of the colors will be dazian expocloth (aka exposure) - black for the screen wall, under soffits and columns, and royal blue for the fabric frames.


Finally, Bryan Pape has given me my room analysis. It seems I have a ton of OC 703 to source, pick up and place. Should be a real difference maker though.


We are booked up the next couple weekends, so we will be trying to nibble at a few things in the evenings. First on the list will be patching all the holes the electrician left (suggestions? foam? caulk? something else?), smooth out some surfaces, run some of the wires through the conduit and move all the tools out of the playroom and into the HT (thinking of Bigmouth's rolling shelf idea). Fired up to get moving.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,606 Posts
Discussion Starter #273

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don_Kellogg /forum/post/11380552


Dave what are you powering with the XLS amps subs?

Haha - it isn't anything special - I have 5 ascend HTM-200's (their entry level bookshelf). The plan is to upgrade the fronts in year two, and run 7.1. I picked up the amps for to nothing during the rebate they ran last may, so they are overkill for now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,296 Posts
I see I'm pretty stoked my rack should be here soon, maybe this week ordered last Wednesday. I'm finally adding on the specd Equipment room and rear columns. I like the way your equipment rack looks, is it a slim 5 with a door?


How do you like those amps? I have two PB13 Ultras on order but I might want to put subs in the rear columns as well. The plan is to have 4-5 PB13 Ultras when it all said an done. But I would like to put subs in at least the rear columns. They will probably be DIY do to the size I need.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,606 Posts
Discussion Starter #275
My rack is just rails (~$50) and a door(~$300, gasp). The door is not spec'd for just rails (unless its less than 20 spaces).


Can't really review the amps (the speakers were in the attic until last night) yet. They are heavy SOB's, and I really like the integrated rack rears - shelves are expensive. I'll know more in the coming days as I finally start to set things up.


I made the purchase based on the comments in this monster thread (skip to the later pages, its huge):
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=418666


Getting the rack in is very satisfying. I have been watching your thread, good stuff there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,296 Posts
You know it's been really fun doing the theaters, this one is amazing compared to my previous two. I've learned so much along the way thanks to people like yourself. It seems like this project will never be complete, haha. I'm adding a baffle wall after the equipment room is completed I'll keep posting.


Thanks for all the wonderful tips and tricks.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,606 Posts
Discussion Starter #277
Carpet goes into the playroom tomorrow, and I am back in the HT building business.


First order of business - patching up the many holes my electrician cut in my DD+GG. Not entirely his fault since my lighting plans changed last minute, but he wasn't my most diligent of contractors from a sound isolation perspective.


What are you guys using for stuff like this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,111 Posts
Dave


Is it going to be seen? if not fill with caulk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,111 Posts
I think a big slug of caulk in there will have plenty of mass. You could also fill them and then place another piece of dry wall over the holes for good measure since it wont be seen
 
261 - 280 of 523 Posts
Top