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Discussion Starter #381

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatawan /forum/post/12216857


Dave:

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthr...lapsed&sb=5&o=


Mike has great sales at times, and even better advice. Sounds like you might have gotten your blades, but he has some great deals now(I got one for plywood), and ships quickly.

Hmm, nice prices. Maybe worth a return and re-order. Tough call, I am anxious to get this chore done. Flipside is I have tonight free, then booked until Sunday. . .
 

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Also, as for safety devices, I just got two of these:

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11506


I don't really care what it costs to keep my digits. So many people get maimed by saws and such. I know I have done some stupid things with power tools, but I am getting more careful as I age. You have your accident to make you seriously safety-aware. The board buddies posted before are also a good idea, with a hold down and an anti-kickback component to them.


I saw your OC703 pricing above--as a comparison I have some prices from my local supplier in Chicagoland, which is exceptionally cheap(as far as I could find)--this is for JM814, which is equivalent to OC703


2" unfaced-- $1 sq ft

2" faced-- $1.30 sq ft

1" faced -- $.90 sq ft


no 1" unfaced was available
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_pilgrim /forum/post/12210269


The mdf showed a few schorch marks. But really not too much. Really not too much. Should I get a better blade to cut the mdf better?

Hey DC - just finished doing the exact same cutting for my panels (although I used lumber vs. MDF) about 30 minutes ago, and I have an idea as to why your scorch marks are there at the ends....check your throat plate on the table saw - I found that mine was not perfectly flush, so that when the very end of the wood would pass the throat plate, it would 'drop' a couple thousandths of an inch and bind against the blade a little. I ended up shimming mine just a hair to get it flush, and the problem went away. I did also notice the bevel cuts were harder to push through as well - perhaps just because there is more material to chew through (plus my impatience to "get 'er done"
).
 

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Discussion Starter #384

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatawan /forum/post/12217411


You have your accident to make you seriously safety-aware.

I am not one to harp on it in person, but around these kinds of machine I am definitely a little paranoid.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatawan /forum/post/12217411


I saw your OC703 pricing above--as a comparison I have some prices from my local supplier in Chicagoland, which is exceptionally cheap(as far as I could find)--this is for JM814, which is equivalent to OC703


2" unfaced-- $1 sq ft

2" faced-- $1.30 sq ft

1" faced -- $.90 sq ft


no 1" unfaced was available

Good to know. You are just reminding me that I am delinquent to finish my estimate of what I need and place my order.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YW84U /forum/post/12217468


Hey DC - just finished doing the exact same cutting for my panels (although I used lumber vs. MDF) about 30 minutes ago,

Nobody likes a show-off.
.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YW84U /forum/post/12217468


and I have an idea as to why your scorch marks are there at the ends....check your throat plate on the table saw -

Thanks will do. I had to google image search to figure out that the throat plate was though. . . That is a logical reason, my assumption was it was my failure to apply consistent pressure while feeding the material.
 

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Discussion Starter #385
Got a later start tonight. Swapped out the blades for the 80T Diablo. Found a big part of the problem, the old blade was dull. I guess 150 cuts of 1/4" ply and 200+ cuts of 3/4" mdf were enough for the factory issue blade.


The new blade cut well. The bevel cuts still more effort than the straight cuts, but I don't feel like I am forcing it at all. Got 20 of my 200 cuts done before I decided to cut the night off.


Live and learn. Didn't expect that the blade would dull in a relatively short period (albiet with a good number of cuts). But what I read this morning showed that mdf is a real blade eater.
 

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Glad to hear you're back in the game! With a new blade, now you'll have enough kerf/sawdust at the end of this to sell to the neighbors for their gardens!



Looking forward to seeing the OC703 going up - I be staying tuned to your thread!


Cheers,
 

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Quote:
It was in the way of my push stick when vertically oriented

.


Yeah, this is always a problem with narrow stock. This won't help Dave any, since all of his stock is already ripped down to the width he needs. For anybody else looking at this problem, you might consider starting with stock that's twice the finished width. Rip bevels on both edges, and then set the blade back to square and rip it down the middle to get your finished pieces. The wider stock is easier and safer to handle when making those long bevel cuts.


Dave, cutting all of that MDF is proof that you're a seriously dedicated individual. MDF dust is awful! I don't envy you this next step!


-- Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #388

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightp /forum/post/12223358


.

Dave, cutting all of that MDF is proof that you're a seriously dedicated individual. MDF dust is awful! I don't envy you this next step!


-- Paul

I think my wife prefers to say I am a committed individual, or is it I should be committed - - something like that. Halfway into the mdf cutting experience I completely agree. The shopvac can't keep up the dust is a terror.


Interesting tip BTW. I started to use my scrap mdf as a push stick and its working well. I'll take some pics on Sunday when I am able to get back to work (booked up the next few days).
 

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I hate that stuff it's a toss up Drywall or MDF but nasty and hard to get the dust out of the air. Good to see your making progress.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_pilgrim /forum/post/12220431


Live and learn. Didn't expect that the blade would dull in a relatively short period (albiet with a good number of cuts). But what I read this morning showed that mdf is a real blade eater.

As you note MDF is known to just eat blades alive.
 

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Dave

Hows progress on the fabric frames going?
 

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Discussion Starter #392
Almost no progress. I have all my mdf cut into strips, and then life and work stepped in the way. My in-laws are visiting for another day, so I am hoping to get back in there on Monday and part of Tuesday (until our next houseguest arrives for a couple days).


I did take the plastic off the PJ for some demo sessions. Transformers on HD-DVD looks great (or at least the opening battle sequence did). As do some of the Pixar shorts on B-R.


Happy Holidays, all.
 

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Discussion Starter #393
Just got the official word that my company wants to promote me and relocate me to Pennsylvania. So we are going to have to sell the house and the theater.


Since the theater was only 80% done we are hustling to get it into a marketable condition. So no more fabric frames (we moved the mdf and wood to the garage over the weekend), some custom things will be scaled down.


Here is the plan to get to sale-able:


1. Paint the screenwall black (done)

2. Fill openings in rear soffit & paint black (half done, won't be a bass trap now)

3. Put finished coats of blue on the walls (half done)

4. Wrap columns in fabric

5. Frame tops of columns with vellum paper instead of frosted glass (tested, looks good)

6. Add baseboards and other moldings (cover staples, add bottom piece to crown)

7. Either - build fabric screen wall and use some of my SMX, or make a non-AT DIY screen (leaning towards the latter but will require some tweaking of the CRT PJ - which I stink at)

8. Carpet, add a love seat for staging

9. Watch as many movies as we can assuming we aren't busy with move-prep


Could use some input on #7 - I am kind of torn since the false wall is a big part of the clean look, but it might be a waste of the SmX since the next buyer might not want it, and the next theater might have a different screen size.


We really debated what to do on this move, but it is the right answer from a career perspective, and it fits in our lifestyle. We kind of mourned the loss of the basement because a lot of thought and effort went into it. Things will start picking up in this thread since I want to get my place sold (or sold to the company as part of the relo). It might take a while before build thread #2 starts.
 

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Man what a bummer, for me anyways. You're close and I was hoping to be there if you ever had meet. What a turn of events, especially with you being so close to the finish. Congrats on the promotion and best of luck with the move.


With number 7 you can get some of the Dazian Celtic cloth or you can get the AT screen material form SeymourAV if you want to hold on to your SMX. Good luck.
 

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Dave, congrats, though too bad on the loss of the hard work that went into this one. Of course, there's always 2.0, taking the lessons from this one.


I had a Parkland Plastic DIY in my first apartment setup, and it was great (and cheap/easy to build to boot!). Granted, it means you need to have visible speakers, but for most buyers, they won't even notice, and the few who do, you can tell them "well, here's a link to SMX screens for an inexpensive way to do what I originally intended for $XXX")


You could knock out a parkland screen in 3-4 hours easy, a little more if you go with flat black trim (which I eventually did).


If you don't have the false wall built yet, then DEFINITELY go with a DIY non-AT, for cost and speed reasons...
 

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Discussion Starter #396

Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 /forum/post/12724983


Man what a bummer, for me anyways. You're close and I was hoping to be there if you ever had meet. What a turn of events, especially with you being so close to the finish. Congrats on the promotion and best of luck with the move.

Yeah a bit disapointed it won't be all I wanted to be. But life is full of changes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sokoloff /forum/post/12725025


Dave, congrats, though too bad on the loss of the hard work that went into this one. Of course, there's always 2.0, taking the lessons from this one.


You could knock out a parkland screen in 3-4 hours easy, a little more if you go with flat black trim (which I eventually did).


If you don't have the false wall built yet, then DEFINITELY go with a DIY non-AT, for cost and speed reasons...

Thanks, it took a few days to get over the shock. This will be the second time this company has moved us, so I guess we should be used to it. But it will be worth it. 2.0 might be a 2009 issue.


I am vaguely aware of Parkland (I have seen wilsonart mentioned also). Any thoughts on a source for that? I am leaning towards the non-AT screens. We have a lot of other projects to do.
 

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Dave here are some sources for the Designer White from Wilsonart, I got this info a while back when I was contemplating screen material. You can order from HD and Lowes I believe but that can take longer than you want, they no longer have it in stock around here. Hopefully one of these sources has it close by for you.


Kitchen Tune-Up

2 Cherry Tree Drive

Norton , MA 02766

508-285-0000


Village Kitchen & Bath

86 West Main St.

Norton , MA 02766

508-285-2778


Mediterranian Kitchens

318 Manley St

W. Bridgewater , MA 02379

508-588-5498


Republic Supply

230 Bridge St.

N. Weymouth , MA 02191
 

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Dave,


Congrats on the promotion. Sorry about the HT, it was coming out fantastic. But like others said, look forward to HT 2.0.


As for the screen, no way you should go AT. I seriously doubt you'd get the ROI as I doubt the buyer will be educated on HT screens. God knows I didn't know anything about it until I started visiting here.


Let me be the first citizen of the Commonwealth of PA to welcome you. If you get the hankering for HT work, maybe you could come over help with mine :) I'm just finishing my soffit light tray and could use an experienced fabric guy.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_pilgrim /forum/post/12725889


I am vaguely aware of Parkland (I have seen wilsonart mentioned also). Any thoughts on a source for that? I am leaning towards the non-AT screens. We have a lot of other projects to do.


Heh. I know how that can be.


I ordered my Parkland direct from them, as I needed a 5x10' sheet. I'm not sure if they still do that or not (working for an integrated e-commerce and manufacturing company, I can't see how fulfilling small orders like that could possibly be worth their time...)


If you need 4x8' or smaller, people on the DIY screen forums swear that you can find appropriate material at HomeDepot or Lowes. I never looked hard, as I needed the bigger size. Next time I'm there, I'll have a look if I remember. (It seems like since we bought our "new" house that I might as well get my paycheck direct deposited at HomeDepot...
)


I had built a fairly ghetto blackout cloth screen originally, and wasn't satisfied with it, and don't think mine would have looked "right enough" for a home sale, but perhaps if more carefully done, it would be OK. I eventually put the blackout cloth inside of light-block curtains, so I can't offer it to you, but it's readily available at fabric stores.


The plastic is way easier though. If you hit a home store, look for something that's bright white but without any real gloss. Some texture (even like 80-100 grit sandpaper) is fine, but you don't want something with a lot of gloss, but rather a diffuse white. The Parkland was originally intended for laundry room type wall coverings. I'm virtually certain this is the product I used: http://www.waterproofpanels.com/polywall.shtml


I built a frame from 2x3 lumber, with luan plywood on top (obviously build this as flat/planar as you can!), and the plastic was contact cemented to the luan. A couple of French cleats on the back and some pine trim painted flat black on the front and I was done.
 
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