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Dave,


We used crown that was 3.5" tall and mounted it 5.5" down from the ceiling leaving 2" above. It worked perfect for the amount of light that it lets out onto the ceiling, which I estimate to be about 6" all around the room. I purchased the 1000bulb, clear rope lighting which pulls about 3W / foot. They custom cut the length for you. We installed a nailer around the room first with a 45 degree bevel in it and then just nailed the crown to the nailer piece. The painting came out amazing and granite install was done yesterday as well. I am going finish just about everything in the next 2-3 days, so additional pictures will be available by Saturday at the latest. Let me know if you need any other more detailed information about the crown lighting installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #142
Cherokee - thanks, great details. I'll be on the lookout for the finish pics. Not decided if I'll go with the tray or crown. Carpenter isn't back till next Wednesday (at the earliest), so I have a few days to get my thoughts straight.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog /forum/post/0


Ryan,


This is where I stand back and say "I shoulda...". I should have skipped the cans in the main ceiling in preparation for a star ceiling, but I tried to talk myself out of not doing a star ceiling. I convinced myself that I didn't want it, but after seeing Rubens, well, you know. So I think I'm going to end up building panels and will have to deal with the cans at some point. I also should have also moved the vent to the soffit but got lazy there too.


The only reason I put in the cans in the first place was that I had no good sconce space. In other words, couldn't line things up the way I wanted do to obstructions. I would have preferred sconces aesthetically as well.


I guess you have to play the room cards your dealt as best you can.


Bud

Thanks for the good advice Bud. I'm pretty set on the star ceiling, and it makes sense to forget about cans in the ceiling too. Right now my vents in the front can be either int he ceiling or the soffits. I was planning to leave the supplies in the front soffit (pointing down), and the return is below my rear soffit currently, but I have room to put it in the soffit and point it down or to the front of the theater.


I totally understand about making concessions for your room. I'm not thrilled with my HVAC trunks, but I was at least able to move part of the main supply trunk which makes for much better soffit story for the front 2/3 of the room.


-Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter #144
Ryan - you said you were looking at a false wall. Make sure neither the supplies nor returns get behind the screenwall or you will create one huge dust filter.


I was thinking star ceiling for a year two upgrade until I went CRT. Takes up too much real estate. Maybe I could do a "moon roof" or other detail one day. Low priority for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #145
Carpenter wants my column design.


They will house Ascend HTM-200 speakers (Dimensions: 11" x 6.5" x 6.375")


Here is what I came up with. I assumed a ceiling height of 7'3" below the soffit. But, I'd take the balance out of the 6' height.


I am thinking I might want to make the opening 18", not 12" as I drew them. There will be 6 columns total, two without speakers, which will just be solid. I am thinking MDF, stuffed with insulation based on everything I have read. I may trim out later with crown ir the like. I will wrap them in expocloth. Did I miss anything?


Basic design:
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_pilgrim /forum/post/0


Carpenter wants my column design.


They will house Ascend HTM-200 speakers (Dimensions: 11" x 6.5" x 6.375")


Here is what I came up with. I assumed a ceiling height of 7'3" below the soffit. But, I'd take the balance out of the 6' height.


I am thinking I might want to make the opening 18", not 12" as I drew them. There will be 6 columns total, two without speakers, which will just be solid. I am thinking MDF, stuffed with insulation based on everything I have read. I may trim out later with crown ir the like. I will wrap them in expocloth. Did I miss anything?


Basic design:

Post this Q over in the DIY speaker forum... there are some scarily advanced guys that will tell you the response curves of the enclosure (ignoring room effects) based on enclosure geometry and driver data alone...
 

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Discussion Starter #147

Quote:
Originally Posted by jtnfoley /forum/post/0


Post this Q over in the DIY speaker forum... there are some scarily advanced guys that will tell you the response curves of the enclosure (ignoring room effects) based on enclosure geometry and driver data alone...


Good idea!


Gave it a shot.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post10407712
 

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I just replied to your questions. I'm using the same surrounds as you and columns to hide them.


I couldn't answer about the response curve, but I was told it shouldn't impact it based on my discussion with Ascend and others.
 

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Discussion Starter #149
We painted (well primed) all weekend. Its a pretty big space, that basement.


We were advised to sand the plaster on the blueboard with these mesh sander things. We scared it in a few places since plaster would get caught in it increasing the grit. Not too thrilled about that.


Might take a day or two, but we will have pics soon.
 

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My wife has been after me to paint our living room so that's what I was doing all weekend as well.


As far as the scarring on the plaster you can quickly repair that before you paint by using some joint compound to fill in the grooves you might have created or even the ones that the plaster guy might have left behind. Just use one of the 6 inch compound trowels and get it as smooth as you can. Once dry I use a fine sanding sponge that you wet and squeeze out to keep the dust down. I did this to repair the many imperfections left on my walls from the original work done by the pros. Once sanded smooth just quickly go over it with some primer to then even off the surface if not the paint will take on a different shade. My areas came out perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #151
Thanks for chiming in Oman. I figured there was a way to fix it. But after a couple of long days, and realizing the problem wasn't going away with just primer you are in no mood to search for the answer. My wife is pleased that there is a straight forward solution.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_pilgrim /forum/post/0


Ryan - you said you were looking at a false wall. Make sure neither the supplies nor returns get behind the screenwall or you will create one huge dust filter.

That makes sense. My front wall (which I need to model out in SketchUp here in the next couple of days), won't have supplies behind it, but perhaps in either the soffit above the stage or in the ceiling up front of that. I'll include it in my model to help decide where I want them to end up.


-Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter #153
Well, spoke with the carpenter and we changed the soffit design for rope. Instead or a tray and lip we'll be going with crown.


Diagram in a minute. But my question is any suggestions for the staple to the fabric nearest the crown? The old design let me wrap around and in. I can think of two ways: 1. carpenter cuts to size, but leaves it for me to install on my own once the fabric goes up; or 2. I add a small piece of trim to the bottom of the soffit, essentially extending the crown downward with something like a baseboard shoe (is that the right description? I am such an ametuer). Any other thoughts to hide the staples? I am not worried about the staples by the wall, as the walls will have fabric frames go up, covering the staple there.


Thanks!


Here is the Diagram:
 

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Carpet tack strips on the wall and inside of the crown, wrap fabric around strips of cardboard, and press on to tack strip?
 

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Dave, (chiming in again without reading all the latest updates) whats the vertical piece of the soffit made out of? MDF, Drywall? You could wrap the GOM and staple to the vertical side assuming there is something there to hold the staple, crown over that. You just can't wrap more than an inch or so. If you did it this way, I'd leave enough GOM, then staple and trim the GOM back so the crown hides it.


The other thing to consider is the seams where two pieces of GOM come together. How are you going to handle that? I used the fabrictrack, but that adds 1" of depth, so you have to compensate for that. Make sense?


Bud
 

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Discussion Starter #156
Okay - here are post plaster pics - with some of today's activity.


Starting outside the theater, down the stairs. The notable thing here is to the right the plasterer's adhered plaster to the concrete walls (no framing, no blueboard) using some kind of bonding agent. Its the slowest to cure, but they did a good job:


Here are some pics of the playroom and spaces outside the HT, in the playroom. At the base of the stairs, the adjustable ladder used by my wife and I to prime the stairs and there are some lines up for a planned built-in bookcase:


Coming counter-clockwise, the electrical closet - still a bit chaotic there:


Continueing CCW, this is the corner diagnol to the stair landing, door it to the 3/4 bath:


Continuing CCW, on the left is a closet that will house my desk, as a built in. On the right we will put toy shelving - we are pretty pleased with the sconces :


Couple shots of the begining of the bath:




Continued in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #157
Here is the entrance to the H.T. - it is to the right of the desk/toy shelving area.


Here is the screenwall, from the door. No blue tape for the screen size up yet:


Same deal from the other back corner:


Here is the back wall:


The CRT mount (rods to be trimmed back)


Conduit to the PJ - remember that I had a problem with the pull string coming out - looks like I wasn't the only one. Who ever did it, hid the evidence. Glad I now know the Shop-vac technique:


Here is a wall plate I saw locally - might use it to cover my counduit in either the front secction or at the PJ:


Here is the EQ rack. not puunched through yet, but the 20 amp style outlet is in, designed for the panamax 4400 I got off e-bay (after Gary's sold instantly):


Can't make an omlet with out breaking some eggs. Electrician is a bit of a wildcard - shows up randomly, then forgot that the outlets go in the columns not the wall. So he made an outlet sized hole in my wall. Something to be fixed:


Another fix - smoke detector is where the back soffit will go. Whoops.


Its amazing how many details can be missed. Wish it was more DIY, so these could be prevented, rather than fixed. I am sure I'd make different kinds of mistakes instead. Cest la Vie
 

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Discussion Starter #158

Quote:
Originally Posted by jtnfoley /forum/post/0


Carpet tack strips on the wall and inside of the crown, wrap fabric around strips of cardboard, and press on to tack strip?

That might work. Based on Bud's comment, I have a little more thinking to do:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chinadog /forum/post/0


Dave, (chiming in again without reading all the latest updates) whats the vertical piece of the soffit made out of? MDF, Drywall? You could wrap the GPM and staple to the vertical side assuming there is something there to hold the staple, crown over that. You just can't wrap more than an inch or so. If you did it this way, I'd leave enough GOM, then staple and trim the GOM back so the crown hides it.


The other thing to consider is the seams where two pieces of GOM come together. How are you going to handle that? I used the fabrictrack, but that adds 1" of depth, so you have to compensate for that. Make sense?

I follow Bud, the issue is whether I DIY the crown, or let the carpenters do it as part of their finish work. I don't have the fabric on-hand (or the treatment plan), so they will be done and gone when I hang the fabric.


Your second point about seams is something I never thought about. Since I am going for fabric walls, it just wasn't an issue. Now it is. I'll get my thinking hat on.
 

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I used one piece one that I cut lengthwise and used each piece for the sides, that way I could minimize seams. My intention was to put linacoustic uner the soffits, so I built it out using 1" furring strips which coincided with the 1" track. Later, Bryan recommended I did not use linacoustic under the soffits, so I left the furring and just GOMed it. Using the fabric track for the seams helped big time. I may have some pics of that process.


Bud
 

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Discussion Starter #160
Okay - we came up with a staple hiding solution today. My carpenter is going to affix the crown to another molding, and just tack or screw it. When I get the fabric and plan together we will take it down from the molding, staple away, and then re-attach it with glue and the whole nine yards. He wanted to spare me the misery of crown, and felt this was the best way. Hope it works.


For seams, I need to figure out if it is price prohibitive, but I am leaning towards just running the fabric length-wise with the soffit. Expocloth comes in 48" widths, so I should be able to get two 17" wide soffits bottoms per length if I halve it and trim to need. We'll see I guess.
 
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