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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Most of you will know but there is a flagship receiver forum
http://pub106.ezboard.com/faussiedvd...icID=407.topic

,which equally has excellent threads. The following review has been posted there originally three days ago, by myself, of course. I thought, I'd make it accessible to the AVS users, as you guys have helped me so much putting together my HT. Thanks.


I actually own a 49 TXi and I have done about 200 hours of research on the diverse forums before buying my hometheater equipment. One of the things that bothered me most, was that you never know how reliable the info is because you don't know the people and their equipment or room. So I will give you a little introduction, thus you know what I am talking about. If you find that too much just read the actual review at Looks and built.


I've been a high-end stereo freak for 15 years while my ears are still 30 years young and trained by many classical and jazz concerts while I spared them discos. My room is roughly 3500 cb.ft. and my speakers are set-up minimizing room effects by calculation and measurement and then fine tuned by ear. I am a vinyl and tube lover. I will explain my gear a little for those who don't know these devices to better assess what I am used to and not to show off, there is worse than me.

My stereo amp is a German (as myself) Emitter 1 HD by Schaefer. It is one of the world's best integrated amps and you should check it out at www.asraudio.de .My version is of totally transparent acrylic and not brown as the one on the site. The main speakers are Jamo Oriel. They have the famous Dynaudio Esotar tweeter, an Eton midrange (they make the midrange for Avalon) and Scanspeak bass chassis. The impedance is 6 ohm and the sensitivity is 87db. The Surrounds are Phasetech Teatro Tripoles and an Earthquake Supernova Mk IV 12 subwoofer. cables are mostly MIT and there are custom built power cords and a Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner.


Looks and built

Esthetics are disputable but I think it looks great. Glossy front panel finish is the next best thing to polished steel and as good as chrome. Finger prints are easily wiped off with a microfiber cloth w/o smears. The units display is big, very readable and can be dimmed and turned off. This seems to sound slightly better but I haven't had the time to blind a/b this detail. The three button design is a wonderful implication of the "Form follows function" rule. It's built to perform. Weight doesn't really mean better quality the TXi's outer shell is as stiff as a coffin, if you know what I mean...Nothing moves inside or outside. Weight does mean that you have to take care when you lift it alone if you have a back problem. Two nice touches: A motor controlled door would be fancy but if the TXi could not break your back, the motor still could break, and you are man/woman enough to open a little door, aren't you? Binding posts are gold-plated, individually isolated and could be more generously spaced. Especially because the cable inserts are diagonal and therefore difficult to reach. The second nice touch is a plastic foil between the binding posts. This way, if ever there's a stray wire, it won't short the amp.


Functions and features:

Download the manual if you want even more details. It is really well done and easy to grasp. So I'll only write about the most important things imho.

I-Link: I don't use it but as far as I know it is the Texas Inst. version and conform to the standard, hence not proprietary as with the denon-link. The question of what is downconverted and what not is actually still puzzling me. If you have a high-end SACD or DVD-A player you might still get better sound over 6 good analog cables.


Video upconversion: Simple. Tried and worked. Also tested the component from DVD directly to PJ and found no discernable difference as compared to routing it through TXi.


Soundmodes: All the latest, lovely formats and options are there. Supposedly even the tunable Prologic II, if anyone knows how to access it please let me know. as long as the DVD is properly flagged and you have set the TXi to "Standard" and 7.1 (which also works for 6.1), it will automatically select the right format. In this config. it also autom. creates an extra back channel to turn 5.1 source material into 6.1. Probably one could turn that off by telling the TXi that you have a 5.1 system, but why would you do that? It works well. From there you can add THX processing on top of practically everything even DTS. The DSP Pioneer modes are not bad at all. As apurist I thought this kind of stuff was BS. I was wrong. Personally, I find most of them enjoyable; no trade-off compared to the sanctified dolby and dts modes. Two of them are particularly useful for me. The "Adv. Concert > Classical" mode is great for classical radio and especially orchestral music. Listened to Ny Phil. at Avery Fisher Hall live and was stunned. You can even adjust how pronounced you want the effect of the DSP modes to be. The "Adv. Cinema > Drama" mode is enhancing the dialog (or rather its understandability, don't expect Blade to become intellectually challenging. If it is for you and you have read until here... that's great you're making progress) while explosions and lion roars don't suffer. Only the Jazz mode is awful. Listen to Diana Krall or Ella and have the entire ensemble in the center speaker...Whose idea was that? I'd like to give the engineer a stern talking.


MCACC

Automatic calibration. You REALLY want this. If it was the same engineer as the one who did the Jazz mode, he is a fantastic engineer but just hates Jazz. It really does work. It is very precise. I measured it. The speaker distance is precise to 1/10 of a foot. There are three settings for the MCACC that you can change on the fly to compare. There have been many questions on this, so I hope I can shed some light.

1. OFF. It still does all the measuring autom. yet you can either set the MCACC to OFF or change EACH parameter manually. You can also decide to never use it, and calibrate everything manually from scratch. When it's off, it still uses the speaker distance and channel level measured during the first automatic calibration (of course, you have to connect the micro and push a button, it doesn't go all alone even if you don't want it to). It just doesn't try to match a certain EQ curve but still compensates for room acoustics I believe (I think so because you can have it on in Stereo mode and Front Ch. Align.) I want to see a non-acoustic engineer do that with simple Radio Shack meter.

2. The AIR curve is supposed to match your speakers and acoustics to those of the AIR recording studios in London. Anyone here who knows why they picked this studio? I never really use it because in my room and with my main speakers it is fairly close to the third mode but not quite as good.

3. Front Channel Alignment is the real treat. It matches your system to your room, compensating for nasty reverbs etc. AND it matches your surrounds except the sub to your main speakers' tonality. This means you don't necessarily have to have a totally homogeneous system and still get a coherent sound character. After all, you like the sound of your mains and would probably like to have them six or seven times.

Custom settings: I didn't try those yet but probably will. Looks easy enough. My first question was what is the COPY function for. The manual is not quite clear on this, I find. Well, you copy one off the first two curves into a custom memory. The original curve rests untouched where it is. Then you use the copied curve as a starting point from which you tweak and tweak and tweak and... messed it up? No problem, your original curve is safe and sound. Erase the failed attempt and try again. The work of a genius. Some people might wish for more than two custom places but I think it's enough.

A good application would be as follows. If you mostly listen and watch alone and have perfect conditions, like chairs and reflective couch tables pushed out of the way and only your own absorbing body in the listening chair. The fridge and A/C as noise generators are turned off and you're sitting right in the sweet spotte. Enjoy!

But then, of course, you want to show off your installations to your audio or videophile or other friends. A/C and fridge are on for obvious reasons, many more absorbing bodies, more furniture and no one actually sitting in the sweet spot. Here's the solution: Invite some really tolerant friends or audiophile freaks and use them as dummies. Set up the scene, put the micro in the middle of the audience, so that everyone's distance to the virtual sweet spot is minimized. Now, measure with Auto Cal. Don't worry the test noises are loud but nothing like the explosions in Pearl Harbor. Within five minutes you got the perfect set-up for your crowd. Drop in a movie and reward yourselves. The friends are gone. The MCACC scheme is now occupying the main spots in your memory because you measured with it. You simply copy the one you liked best (remember you have the choice between AIR and Front Ch. Align.) to Custom 1. Then you recalibrate everything with Auto Cal. for your reference single settings. The next time your friends come over, you simply switch to Custom 1 and are ready for the movie. The best thing is that Custom 2 is still free to tinker with it.


Remote:

Everyone says this remote is great. Some even considered using a Pronto and then preferred to stay with the TXi remote because it does a nice job. It does indeed, just keep in mind a few things. It is definitely a two-hand remote with a horizontal lay-out. It is also a device based remote and it only has one screen per device, so your DVD remote cannot be completely copied as far as I know. When you are not using the built-in codes there might be a trick to combine buttons from different devices into one single screen. This is often referred to as "punch-through". The most important one is already integrated. That is the master volume control and mute are automatically assigned to the hardbuttons. That means while you are on a DVD screen, the cursor hard buttons will control the DVD's menu and the volume control will adjust the TXi. On the right hand side there is an extra row for your TV’s most important functions which are also always available without changing the screens. If your other devices are also Pioneer, this is the default for the remote and you don't have to do anything. Very well thought out, isn't it? The screen is very good to read and backlight more than sufficient except the fluorescent device buttons. Touchscreen feel and sensitivity are very good. You won't need the supplied stylus unless you wear boxing gloves. Battery consumption seems to be ok. NiMH accus for your remote save time and money, plus they are environmentally friendly (I'm German, remember?). IR range is also good but interestingly the TXi seems to have a smaller receiving angle than the DV-47a that stands beneath it. One must point quite directly. I might be finicky but the volume control over the remote, although in very fine steps, is not fast enough to quickly turn down the volume in an explosive scene for the neighbor’s sake. It changes noticeably faster over my programmable remote.



Sound:

Saving the best for last. It sounds terrific. If I weren't so spoiled by my integrated amp, which ranks within the best of the world including Accuphase, Gryphon, Mark Levinson, Rowland, I'd probably find it totally sufficient even in Stereo mode with music. By the way, there is a stereo Direct mode that bypasses the digital gimmicks. Compared to the Direct mode the normal stereo mode only reaches 60 % of its potential.


One big plus of the 49Txi is that it does have a Phono input. So you can use your record player directly without an additional phono pre-amp. This makes the TXi an elegant all around solution since it even includes quite a good tuner section.


I have not listened to the two main contenders, i.e., the B&K 507 and the Denon 5803. Maybe they are even better in stereo music. In fact I find the 507 quite nice in regards to features and looks but haven't had a chance to listen to it. Anyway, my guess is that if your main speakers cost less than 2-3k, you won't really be able to appreciate the probably marginal difference. Besides, the room and speaker calibration feature will probably make the entire set-up sound better because we all know how important room and speaker placement are.

One of the assumed characteristics, I say so because it seems many people only report on what they have read on the forums and not heard with their ears, is, that the Pioneer sounds bright. And, as usual, much depends on your listening environment and preferences and choice of music. I love vinyl and my amp and Cd-player (Rega Planet) are known to sound rather warm and musical than cool and analytical. Someone wrote the TXi has got the bloom of good tubes. I don't think so. When I first plugged it in and turned it on I said: They are right, it does sound bright. But then I know that you have to give the equipment a chance to break in. Mine has around 300 hours now and the brightness is gone. What stays is an amazingly low noisefloor. That's a very good sign and an important technical point. I have a friend who is a recording engineer from one of Europe's best school's. When he saw my stereo amp, he turned it up all the way and then listened to the tweeters (No signal, just listening for the amp's noisefloor). I have the impression the TXi is even quieter. That means that treble detail and low level info really stand out nicely compared to other equipment. If one were to combine it with B+W or JMlab speakers in an acoustically hard room, it might sound too harsh for some. So, if you are not a super vinyl cum mellow tube sound freak (if you are you most likely have a separate stereo system anyway) the Txi will be not too bright. I'd say it's more suited to European listening preferences, with its detailed open sound but your own ears must judge. All the other criteria like straight frequency range, spatial rendering, neutrality, stability, homogeneity, timbre are high-fidelity in the very best sense. I say hi-fi because hi-end stereo gear usually has more soul and musicality to it, at the price of neutrality. The only thing I've ever heard that was totally natural, true, life-like and beautiful was Goldmund from Switzerland. The stuff is as outrageously expensive as Krell and ML top-ends but is in my eyes even better. To come back to the real world of the TXi, I'd say it performs probably on the level of a 2-3k stereo amp (integrated or combo) with music. This seems realistic, given all the extra budget for R+D and the extra amp channels plus THX licenses and so on. Hence, it's worth its money soundwise even as a stereo music only unit. If you consider the sound for movies I prefer it to all the sound systems of the local (Austin, TX) mulitplex cinemas. The only better sound I've heard was in some high-tech theaters in Paris, and Paris is known to be the place where they show the most (greatest number of different films) movies and the Parisians are crazy for cinema.


Conclusion: Formidable looks, features galore (ok, a second component out and Dolby headphone would have been nice), built like a tank, great sound, upgradeable etc. C'mon, what do you want? For those of you who own one, you probably agree with what I said.

For those among you who try to decide between the BK 507, the Denon 5803 and the 49TXi, you will rarely get the chance to listen to all three of them under the same condition, thus the sound decision is the hardest to make. But one is inclined to suppose that, at least for surround, all three of them are excellent. Built quality should equally be a non-issue. Power might be an issue and then again not. What is he trying to say, this guy is complicated?!

If your room is anywhere under 10.000 cb.ft., your speakers are closer than 30 ft to your ears, the speakers aren't insensitive as plastic buckets and your ears aren't either, then you'll have no problem with the Pioneer. I suggest not going to the max. volume anyway because your ears will be damaged before your speakers.

But there is not only the max. power output issue but also the stability into low ohm loads. There are reports of people, very few, whose 49 TX (not TXi) shut off at loads under 4 ohm. Read the test in SGHT. They tried it real hard. A fuse blew (that's better than the speaker, plus they didn't try with a speaker because only the very, very expensive ones can withstand such high power, they tried with a resistance). They tried it again after having replaced the fuse and it was fine even over 200 watts. Therefore, if you fear having problems with it, only buy from someone where you can return it, if it doesn't work, but don't pass along this opportunity for a great product. Or use the unique MCACC feature in the pre-pro and buy an extra amp for the main and or surround channels. For the money you save compared to the B&K and Denon, you can choose a nice power amp of corresponding quality.

This said, be reasonable. Assess which features you really need and use. Study the manuals beforehand. Are they easy to understand, are all your questions answered? Finally, go out and look at each model. Try them out. You will have to use it every day so the ergonomics are a huge factor. If your wife/ husband cannot use it, there is risk of frustration and veto on your next purchase. Also try out the remote extensively. Buy a good DVD-A or SACD for reference and take it along, as well as some of your fave CDs and DVDs. Be irrational after all that. When you still can't decide, pick the one you find better looking. (This is how men usually decide in the first place. But, of course, the fact you are reading this, shows you also worry about the profound character before you fall in love.)

Still can't make up your mind? Take one last advice (you must have figured by now that I used to work as a prof). Buy the cheapest model of the three. At this level, extra money is better invested into the PJ (you don't need to shell out a thousand dollars for a Greyhawk screen, if your PJ has a good contrast ratio (800+)), or into speakers or DVDs and other source media.

To all those who reflect on buying gear from Krell, Tag, Meridian etc. and still are wise enough to get informed before they pull the thick wallet; whatever your other components are (eg. Logans, Snell, Wilsons) give the TXi a try and half of the money I saved you to me. For the rest, make a nice cruise with your wife. If ever you get dissatisfied with the TXi, upgrade to a Meridian system (still the reference in HT use I think) and make the TXi the heart of an overkill bedroom system or give it to someone you really love. Everyone happy!


Comments on this review and especially impressions from other TX/TXi owners are highly appreciated. Thanks for reading all of this.
 

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Till I read the whole thing at the 49tx forum and want to thank you for taking the time to write all this. It was a very good review, with a lot of details.


Daniel Smith
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, Daniel!

I noticed you were one of the most active members with the best posts, so it's particularly appreciated. It sure took a lot of time but nothing in comparison to the hundreds of hours I researched. So thanks to everyone on these two forums, you helped a lot. My HT gives me great pleasure everytime I use it.
 

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Till,


Nice review, thanks. I have some questions:


1. Does MCACC adjust the unamplified Subwoofer/LFE output as well? (I take it there's no amplified subwoofer output?)

2. Does Pioneer include firewire drivers for WinXP? (I think it would theoretically be possible to use the 47Txi as a sound-card for HTPC..) I guess the only thing the firewire input is used for is to connect the 47ai DVD player? Does the firewire input support all audio modes from the 47ai? Or is it only for SACD/DVD-A?
 

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Quote:
2. Does Pioneer include firewire drivers for WinXP?

(I think it would theoretically be possible to use the

47Txi as a sound-card for HTPC..) I guess the only thing

the firewire input is used for is to connect the 47ai DVD player?
There's no drivers for WinXP that I know of. Most likely

because of copy protection requirements for DVD-A and

SACD. The only format that's in the clear is plain old

44.1/16 PCM from regular CD's. So HTPC to 49TXi could

be done, but would be limited to 44.1/16 PCM. Not too

appealing for most.

Quote:
Does the firewire input support all audio modes

from the 47ai? Or is it only for SACD/DVD-A?
All audio modes are sent over 1394 including AC3, DTS,

MPEG-1 and MPEG-2 audio. For SACD, the DSD bitstream is

sent (encrypted) over 1394 (no conversion to PCM).


Ron
 

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Thanks Till. Is it really true that the DPL2 adjustments still aren't supported? DocDVD claimed they were but that was before he had thoroughly tested the unit. Nobody else has been able to find them and Doc seems to have disapeared from the internet without his long-promised review. What about the 45? Does it have the adjustments for center width, panorama, etc?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ron (dr 1394) is THE expert on all digital format hightech questions as you will soon notice. Trust what he tells you. By the way Ron, are you doing that professionally? Moreover, there's no Cd-rom with software whatsoever included with the TXi.


There is no amplified sub-out. MCACC takes care of speaker distance (delay) and channel level but does no sub EQ. There are quite a few bass limiting and cross-over options though. They also work when you use the multichannel input, that is they are your bassmanagement for DVD-A and SACD. A propos, I have just tried Allison Krauss on 2ch SACD on the 47A. Nice clean sound, good sound staging, everything you get from a really good redbook cd, too. But no transcending vinyl experience.


As to the DPL II, please, if anyone finds how to adjust it, let us know. I almost know the manual by heart. It isn't even mentioned. But is it important. Proper speaker placement and room tuning seem to be more promising for good sound.


Won't have net access for a week or so. See y'all then.


Till
 

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Quote:
By the way Ron, are you doing that professionally?
Yes, I'm a staff engineer at the company formerly known

as C-Cube Microsystems (now LSI Logic). My current

job is writing 1394 driver code, 1394 protocol stack

code (including 5C) and silicon verification of this

device:

http://www.lsilogic.com/techlib/mark...no_arch_pb.pdf


Previously, I used to design MPEG-2 systems (PCI encoder

and decoder boards) at a little company called Optivision.


Before that, I was a consultant at C-Cube and wrote

microcode for their early MPEG-1 and MPEG-2 encoders.

That was in 1993 to 1995, so you can see that I've

been in the MPEG biz for a while now.


I got a Pioneer DV-47Ai to test with for two reasons:


1) To see if they were using any "proprietary" protocols

for 1394 audio. I was very happy to find that the entire

Pioneer 1394 audio implementation uses all standard (and

open) 1394 protocols. Even their "PQLS" rate control

scheme is using a standard 1394 protocol.


2) For my (Domino) 1394 silicon verification.


I'm trying to convince my boss to buy a 49TXi, so that

I can see the rate control protocol in action with

my bus analyzer.


Ron
 

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Hi Ron,


Thanks for the info on PQLS - that's the one that had me worried. I think it's just amazing how Pioneer nailed the entire interface first time out. Especially considering the mess Denon is in with their digital audio interface. Your boss shouldn't have to buy a 49TXi - Pioneer should GIVE you one to play with, IMO. Keep up the good work, my friend.


Austin

Quote:
Originally posted by dr1394
I got a Pioneer DV-47Ai to test with for two reasons:


1) To see if they were using any "proprietary" protocols

for 1394 audio. I was very happy to find that the entire

Pioneer 1394 audio implementation uses all standard (and

open) 1394 protocols. Even their "PQLS" rate control

scheme is using a standard 1394 protocol.


2) For my (Domino) 1394 silicon verification.


I'm trying to convince my boss to buy a 49TXi, so that

I can see the rate control protocol in action with

my bus analyzer.


Ron
 

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Quote:
As to the DPL II, please, if anyone finds how to adjust it, let us know. I almost know the manual by heart. It isn't even mentioned. But is it important. Proper speaker placement and room tuning seem to be more promising for good sound.
Yes, it's important, at least to me. Not including the ability to fine tune the width and depth of the soundstage is a major oversight in a "flagship" product.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Catapult,


of course, it is a pity that this function is missing. Personally, I hardly ever use Prologic anyway. Hence it doesn't matter to me. To be honest I didn't quite understand the use of it. It is for two channel sources, right? So, I guess it is very important for the 99 % of Americans who own a TV set (probably people who own the 49er even have several TV sets). I don't even own a TV and if I look at the program and what I'd have to pay to get it I'd much rather rent DVDs for the same amount every month and watch exactly what I like, when I like and in the quality I like. But that's a whole other topic, of course.


Here's the good news. After being sent out for repair, then lost and then replaced with a new unit, I got the 49 TXi back. I now use it with said integrated amp (you really must check this one out, see the link in my review above) to drive the main speakers. Very good sound and I didn't have to break in the 49er's amps.


To all those who are still undecided whether they should buy this piece, read my review again or drop a question in this thread.


Looking forward to your comments on your experience with this receiver especially if you use the pre-outs.


Till
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by dr1394
I'm trying to convince my boss to buy a 49TXi, so that

I can see the rate control protocol in action with

my bus analyzer.

Ron
Ron,

Tell him that it will sound better then Anthem with modification :D I am not kidding here, I'd spent a lot of time looking at 49TXi scematics, and I had been surprized as you did with the protocol, how good are elements used in it ... in I/V Vishay Dale (1% low noise metal film resistors with non-magnetic end caps for good high frequency response and low crosstalk. Pure copper leads), Elna High Grade Audio capacitors where necessary, Hi-End DF1706E digital filters, working in software mode, PCM1704 Sign Magnitude DACs (actually one of the best available), power supply connections separated for each DAC chip by LC filters, etc. ... it is not easy to find such stuff in much more expensive devices ...

Here are the results of measures in Direct mode (processing part):

Frequency response (from 40 Hz to 15 kHz), dB: +0.06, -0.26 Very good

Noise level, dB (A): -84.4 Good

Dynamic range, dB (A): 84.2 Good

THD, %: 0.0085 Very good

IMD, %: 0.065 Good

Stereo crosstalk, dB: -85.8 Excellent

And I don't understand why catapult needs the adjustment of soundstage, as it will mess the phase image of the original source (with TA by MCACC) ... Hi-Fi (not even Hi-End) means "high fidelity" :D. Don't forget, the main format in 49TXi is still Ultra THX 2 with THX Music, which is trying to restore the multichannel image as it had been planned by the audio engineer ... the soundstage width adjustment here will be funny ;)


P.S. Yes, and thanks for the nice review, Till :)
 

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Gordon,


I never did get my boss to buy the 49TXi. The 55TXi that I did the 1394 rate

control analysis on recently was bought with my own funds. At $1200, it was

within my personal science experiment budget. If the Denon DVD-5900 was a

bit less expensive, I'd get one to see if it really does/does not work over

1394 with the 55TXi.


BTW, my home audio setup is an ancient Sony XA-20ES CD player fed directly

to a pair of Audio Electronic Supply SE-811 SET amps (with the SV811-3 DHT

triodes replaced with SV572-3's biased to a dull red on the plates).


Ron
 

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Ron,

For sure it is not possible to buy each new device to test it. And I really appreciate your support of our AVS database knowledge. I'll give you an idea how to make 55TXi MUCH better, it is really easy and just requiring good soldering skill. Please note, that main chips in it are the same (except of ADC, but it is still pretty close - AK5380 vs AK5383 in AVM20) as in Anthem ... so we have some good opportunities.

Concerning your home setup - we need to change the situation :D. I will keep it in mind.


By the way Denon (actually D&M holding, as they need your skills for Marantz too) has to hire you (with the right salary so you will be able to afford 49TXi :p or better 59TXi and give them an idea how to make stuff correctly :cool: ) ... that will solve their i-link problems for sure, and in the future as well ... just take a look here:
http://www.audiovideoexperience.com/...lectronics.htm
Quote:
IEEE 1394 Firewire prepared DSP section, interface panel
They planned it for 5800, and where is it now for 5803? Then, we know how i-link had been implemented in 5900 :(, and as Ron showed to us, there was nothing too serious to do for that, just needed to use correctly the standard protocol ... :mad:
 

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Quote:
And I don't understand why catapult needs the adjustment of soundstage
Geez, picking on me again, eh Gordon? :D


Sounds like you don't use DPL2 very much with stereo sources. Personally, I like it a lot. Jim Fosgate thought the adjustments were important enough to optimize speaker placement/room variations that he included them when he invented DPL2. Even the cheapest Pioneers have them now. But, with the 59's inclusion of DPL2x (presumably with all the adjustments) that's all old news so we can move on to bigger and better things.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by catapult
Geez, picking on me again, eh Gordon? :D
Well, assuming that you are rarely wrong ... :D
Quote:
Sounds like you don't use DPL2 very much with stereo sources. Personally, I like it a lot. Jim Fosgate thought the adjustments were important enough to optimize speaker placement/room variations that he included them when he invented DPL2. Even the cheapest Pioneers have them now. But, with the 59's inclusion of DPL2x (presumably with all the adjustments) that's all old news so we can move on to bigger and better things.
Yeah, I am not using DPLII so much, I LOVE my STEREO mode now :) And before I used 7-ch mode more then anything for stereo.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Gordon McGregor
Ron,

For sure it is not possible to buy each new device to test it. And I really appreciate your support of our AVS database knowledge. I'll give you an idea how to make 55TXi MUCH better, it is really easy and just requiring good soldering skill.
Gordon,


I've been soldering for 15 plus years (worked as a maintenace engineer for a TV station). I hated replacing surface mount chips, but other than that I'm willing and able. Are these directions and parts #'s going to be on your website or can I get them now?


Thanks,

Patrick
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by avaholic
Gordon,

I've been soldering for 15 plus years (worked as a maintenance engineer for a TV station). I hated replacing surface mount chips, but other than that I'm willing and able. Are these directions and parts #'s going to be on your website or can I get them now?

Thanks,

Patrick
Patric,

The part #s will be at the website, it will not be difficult to get them from well-known suppliers. I intend to explain the whole process and how I had been able to get the results. I am not going to hide the idea, make the mod more complicated and charge more for nothing. Actually, if one can do the job by himself, he will be able to decide if he wants to donate anything for the future upgrades development or not, depending of the final results and his valuation of the difference in sound quality. I want to make this stuff as fair as possible, keeping in mind that tweaking is always a compromise because one cannot exchange all elements and schematics to the best ones, but it is the most effective results/cost solution (to get the best possible sound quality for less possible price).

I know that this is not a usual tweaking business approach, but my wish is to make more people happy with their stuff's sound quality (i-link equipped at first, due to the quality of transmitted through it signal) and get the reasonable support from them (reasonable from their point of view, not mine) instead of making money by marketing ...
 
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