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So it has to do with voltage changes also. I thought they had something to do with reset only. Had me a little confused since my kuro isn't reset.
By default, both display "adjusted" on all Kuros (even ones whose service menu hasn't been tinkered with). Since the memory slots keep track of different statuses that change over time i.e pulse meter, I bet both memory slots are updated in unison as the pulse meter changes, hence the "updated" indicator.

Not sure why the indicator for dig eep goes to "no data" during the "safe reset" process. Perhaps its data gets deleted and the current settings / statuses are stored in some type of RAM. Then, when you make a decision as to whether to keep the reset or revert, it either copies the current data from RAM to dig eep and backup (keep reset) or copies the data from backup to dig eep (revert).
 
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Where is VX2 in the service menu? Was reading something about green lag in this thread and it was said lowering it gets rid of it. Want to try it.

Is it in the same section as FS1 FS2 FS4?
 

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Where is VX2 in the service menu? Was reading something about green lag in this thread and it was said lowering it gets rid of it. Want to try it.

Is it in the same section as FS1 FS2 FS4?
I would say that's Vol Xpofs2. It's the only one that makes sense of all the technical names. But I'm pretty new to the SM.
 

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I would say that's Vol Xpofs2. It's the only one that makes sense of all the technical names. But I'm pretty new to the SM.
Thought that might be the one too. I’ll try it.
 

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Adjusting only the service menu white balance (RH down a ton, BH up a ton, ABL to 140, everything else untouched) I arrive at the following - many thanks to @makaveddie81 for the fantastic KuroCal:
3113106

3113107

This is half decent, it would seem... however, the greyscale under 20 IRE is heavy on red and blue. I have read a few times that the gamma RGB settings should always be moved the same amount. Why is that? Would it not make sense in my scenario to decrease red and blue at Gamma 10 by a click or two and leave the green?
 

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Tried lowering VX2. Does nothing for green lag.
 

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Adjusting only the service menu white balance (RH down a ton, BH up a ton, ABL to 140, everything else untouched) I arrive at the following - many thanks to @makaveddie81 for the fantastic KuroCal:
View attachment 3113106
View attachment 3113107
This is half decent, it would seem... however, the greyscale under 20 IRE is heavy on red and blue. I have read a few times that the gamma RGB settings should always be moved the same amount. Why is that? Would it not make sense in my scenario to decrease red and blue at Gamma 10 by a click or two and leave the green?
I've long favored adjusting the service menu white balance controls over the ISF ones because they are more precise and only BH and RH need to be adjusted to nail a neutral white balance. With the ISF controls you have jump back and forth between the high and low controls until you find a perfect balance.

Not sure if you did, but make sure to click the Apply Deltas To Remaining Tables button to apply the changes to all other drive modes after you're done calibrating the current drive mode.

As far as the readings under 20 IRE, it all depends on the meter you're using but I've read that consumer meters are not quite accurate at those levels. Plus, looks like you're using ColorHCFR and I can tell you from experience that, with the same meter, I get different readings between ColorHCFR and Calman Enthusiast. My readings under 20IRE in Calman Enthusiast after calibrating white balance via the service menu controls don't look nearly as bad yours. If I was you, I'd leave it alone and trust the Kuro's white balance controls/algorithms and chalk it up to a Color HCFR issue instead.

Did you try adjusting via the ISF white balance controls and see if they provided more balanced results?

3114060
 

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Tried lowering VX2. Does nothing for green lag.
Green lag on the 60s is due to the separation between S3 and S4 being too far off from factory default.
 

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Green lag on the 60s is due to the separation between S3 and S4 being too far off from factory default.
They’re at stock. I’ve always gotten green lag even when I first bought the kuro.
 

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They’re at stock. I’ve always gotten green lag even when I first bought the kuro.
Oh wow. Yeah, never seen green lag on stock Kuro before. Have you tried lowering/raising both VX1/VX2 in different combinations?
 

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Oh wow. Yeah, never seen green lag on stock Kuro before. Have you tried lowering/raising both VX1/VX2 in different combinations?
I only tried lowering VX2 so far. Nothing else.

Lowering rstp to 1 gets rid of it. You only see it slightly on black transitions. Further lowering voltages clears it completely.

Now that I have everything at stock, cause I prefer the better quality and dynamic range of the picture that I was talking about awhile back compared to going very low on voltages which affects the picture, I want to know if there’s any other way to clear it and what causes it in the first place.

Stock settings shouldn’t be having any artifacts. Unless my kuro was setup wrong at the factory.
 
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I played around with XPOFS2 on my reset 5020 and, just as I expected, raising it causes the green lag / sparkles on black that are seen when the same voltage is adjusted on the 60 inch sets. It had no effect on reducing magenta misfires on combi mask 6. I raised it 100 ticks. Given that your set seems to be a hybrid between a 50 and 60 inch set, I bet you also have the green sparkles / lag but just haven't seen them yet or are too focused on the white strobe area of combi mask 6 to notice them. Raising VOL SUS causes the sparkles near black on 60 inch sets, so the fact that you saw them after raising VOL SUS on your 50 inch set further confirms that your set exhibits some 60 inch behavior.

With actual, live content on the screen, (and with ALL lights turned off at night time) access the service menu and display combi mask 6. You will see green dots and lines on the black area of combi mask 6 that disappear after around 10 seconds or so. Now set your XPOFS2 back to default and they will no longer be there if you display combi mask 6 again with content on the screen.

Yes, one of the XPOFS voltages (which one depends on panel size) does change as the panel ages as per my pre and post reset voltage measurements, but the change was around 7 to 8 ticks on a 50 and 60 inch set with over 20K usage hours (yes I adjusted the service menu and measured the voltages to equate this) - which is not even close to the 100 tick adjustment you're making on your set. The change is so minimal that no one even bothers to adjust these and over adjusting causes the aforementioned green lag.

Just to clarify, on combi mask 6, by magenta misfires you mean single pixel magenta dots all over the scrolling bar, correct? Because the scrolling bar IS supposed to flash / strobe magenta / white all over. It's completely normal - the mask IS a scrolling bar that flashes magenta / white rapidly.

Now, if by magenta misfires you do indeed mean single magenta pixels all over the scrolling bar, then the fact that your set only needs a 30 tick increase in SAD (typically 50 or 60 is needed) to clear combi mask 6 of magenta sparkles is a clear indication that the misfires are not as bad compared to other sets and that your set will be fine after reset if you simply lower X/YSUSB and leave everything else at default. You're putting WAY to much focus on clearing a mask (combi 6) that has absolutely no bearing on content at the expense of causing artifacts on actual content. Trust me, combi mask 6 is the worst case scenario and most non reset sets misfire on this particular mask anyways with absolutely no ill effects on actual, real, live content.

What you need to worry about is clearing a white field by lowering X/YSUSB because misfires on that means that you will see them in bright content. This is why I suggested to go with ALL defaults, lower X/YSUSB until a white field is clear (looks like 125 is your go to value for that) and use content as your barometer, don't look at any other masks after adjusting X/YSUSB.

There has been tons of users who reset and all they needed to adjust was X/YSUSB - no artifacts on real content with a tremendous improvement in black level with absolutely zero red tint.

Remember, the sparkles near black is a clear indication that the panel is being over-volted (not a real word I know lol). The fact that you see them when raising RSTP as high as you are (or VOL SUS or SAD) to simply clear a mask that has no bearing on content should make this even more obvious. Why create new problems by trying to clear a mask that you'll never see again and has no effect on content? The only reason why I raise SAD on the 60 inch sets is because misfires / lag on combi mask 10 WILL show up on content and the only way to clear them is by either raising RSTP or SAD, but raising RSTP causes significantly worse red tint than when I raise SAD.

Try these values and watch some actual, real, live content and report back - ignore combi mask 6 or any other masks for that matter. I understand its your set and you're not obligated to do so, just trying to provide you with an alternative solution based on my experience and you panel's current reaction.

Vsus adjustment value 128
Vysnofs adjustment value 140
Vyprst adjustment value 18
Vxpofs1 adjustment value 85
Vxpofs2 adjustment value 47
Vyknofs1,2 adjustment value 143
Vyknofs3 adjustment value 128
Vyknofs4 adjustment value 172
Vyknofs1,2/3/4 adjustment value 128
XSUSB 125
YSUSB 125
If of all the masks, only the combo mask 6 has artifacts -then all the values after resetting can be left as default? My G8 and G9 after resetting have problems only with mask 6, so its readings can be ignored, and I will not see any artifacts on the real content? I talked to Patrick on this topic (I think everyone here knows him) and he wrote to me that without raising SAD to at least 168, my pioneer will show like ****, although I told him like you that mask 6 is the worst-case scenario. On the G9 without raising the SAD, I see black rain when switching from a static image, on the G8 there is no black rain on the default values.
 

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If of all the masks, only the combo mask 6 has artifacts -then all the values after resetting can be left as default? My G8 and G9 after resetting have problems only with mask 6, so its readings can be ignored, and I will not see any artifacts on the real content? I talked to Patrick on this topic (I think everyone here knows him) and he wrote to me that without raising SAD to at least 168, my pioneer will show like ****, although I told him like you that mask 6 is the worst-case scenario. On the G9 without raising the SAD, I see black rain when switching from a static image, on the G8 there is no black rain on the default values.
I still raise SAD on the 50 inch sets to at least 168 until combi mask 6 is clear. Otherwise, there will be black lag, dark splotches in a black field and "dirty" looking near black content. The only reason I suggested leaving SAD alone was because you mentioned raising it caused artifacts on content.

If you only see problems with combi mask 6 after reset, then leave everything else at default, lower RSTP to 1 and raise SAD until combi mask 6 is clear of magenta sparkles. You may raise RSTP a bit (or SAD a bit more) if you see bothersome black blotches on a full black field (I leave it as is).

The only two masks I check on the 50s are combi mask 6 to set SAD and raster mask 1 (full white field) to set X/YSUSB.
 
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