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I am very tempted to do this on my 141.


With controllcal can I do more then one panel?


On the guid is there a chance you can post pics of each screen shot of the sm next to the step?


Anyone know the voltage setting for the 141?


Do I have to do a complete reset to make this work or can I just adjust the volts?



Thank you guys for being patient. As you all know these are our babies. So I'm taking baby steps and asking questions so she still works when I'm done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShockFett  /t/1510500/reset-guide-pioneer-9g-kuro-take-2#post_24187815


Anyone know the voltage setting for the 141?
they should be the same but if you want to know you can check every one of them and write down the settings you have.


the ones you can write down is these

(they are all under the PANEL -1 ADJ (+) )


VOL SUS

VOL OFFSET

VOL RST P

VOL XPOPS1

VOL XPOFS2

VOL YKNOFS1 D

VOL YKNOFS3 D

VOL YKNOFS4 D

VOL YKNOFSA D

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShockFett  /t/1510500/reset-guide-pioneer-9g-kuro-take-2#post_24187815


With controllcal can I do more then one panel?
i have asked turbe if i can add the isf profiles to other kuros or if im locked to mine.

i have not got an answer yet.

but for rest to write commands and to get into the SM it must work with more than one kuro.

if not the program will be expencive in the long run.


we have three LX5090s for sale here in sweden for about 1000$ each

we also have one White KRP 500AW for 1200$

im thinking of buying two of them and fix them the way i have fixed mine.

i dont want to pay turbe 50$ for each kuro to get controlcal working

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShockFett  /t/1510500/reset-guide-pioneer-9g-kuro-take-2#post_24187815


On the guid is there a chance you can post pics of each screen shot of the sm next to the step?
yes i can but its not important to have pics of the sm if you follow the steps.

if you get lost in the sm just press SM OFF from controlcal and start again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShockFett  /t/1510500/reset-guide-pioneer-9g-kuro-take-2#post_24187815


Do I have to do a complete reset to make this work or can I just adjust the volts?
the reset itself only take 30 seconds if you write the commands fast enough so i dont see why you dont want to do it.

see it as a re calibration of the tvs voltage settings.

you get them back to where they should be.
 

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Ok thank you.



So the volts actually change as the hours increase? So by a reset they go back to hour 0? If so, I understand why the need for a reset.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShockFett  /t/1510500/reset-guide-pioneer-9g-kuro-take-2#post_24187968


Ok thank you.

So the volts actually change as the hours increase? .

no the dont so therefore it is not necessary to write them down.

the voltages in the menu doesnt change over time

its the meters that drives them that changes.


the reset resets the meters not the voltages.


but you can still write down the voltage settings for your elite

it should be interesting to see how much they differ from other kuros.


Edit:

my bad


it seemed from my previous post that the voltages changes after the reset but they dont.

you can write them down even after the reset

they are still the same.

corrected
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
one more thing ShockFett


the other purpose for writing down the voltage settings "before" you change them is to know what the stock settings where.

thats why it should be interesting to see if the elite voltages is different to the other 9g kuros.

IF the stock voltages differ to much then the NEW recomended voltage settings can be wrong for the Elites after the reset.


so do that

if you are going to do the reset
write down your voltage settings and post them here before you do the reset.

then we can decide if the recomended settings will work or not.


i hope you get it

its late here in sweden and i have worked graveyard shift


i believe Stu03 will correct some here when he wakes up..in a few hours
 

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I would like to do a reset to my 101, but I can't get my panel to connect with Hyperterminal. I have ControlCal, but it won't let me uncheck HEX input. I have been able to get KuroControl to work, but I only get text strings as a response, not sure how to display it on screen.


These are what my current values are for reference, it has about 9625 hours:


128 VOL SUS

113 VOL OFFSET

039 VOL RST P

085 VOL XPOPS1

063 VOL XPOFS2

138 VOL YKNOFS1 D

128 VOL YKNOFS3 D

149 VOL YKNOFS4 D

128 VOL YKNOFSA D
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pg_ice  /t/1510500/reset-guide-pioneer-9g-kuro-take-2#post_24188023


one more thing ShockFett


the other purpose for writing down the voltage settings "before" you change them is to know what the stock settings where.

thats why it should be interesting to see if the elite voltages is different to the other 9g kuros.

IF the stock voltages differ to much then the NEW recomended voltage settings can be wrong for the Elites after the reset.


so do that

if you are going to do the reset
write down your voltage settings and post them here before you do the reset.

then we can decide if the recomended settings will work or not.


i hope you get it

its late here in sweden and i have worked graveyard shift


i believe Stu03 will correct some here when he wakes up..in a few hours

Absolutely brother! Baby steps actually baby crawls lol! Thank you so much for taking time to help me, appreciate it. I love my kuros and don't want to destroy them.


The straight rs323 cable. From what I understand it's the same cable from old monitor pc connection? I have several old ones here.

Also can you adjust back some to stop the "black rain"? Does it effect anything else?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchPope  /t/1510500/reset-guide-pioneer-9g-kuro-take-2#post_24188049


I would like to do a reset to my 101, but I can't get my panel to connect with Hyperterminal. I have ControlCal, but it won't let me uncheck HEX input. I have been able to get KuroControl to work, but I only get text strings as a response, not sure how to display it on screen.


These are what my current values are for reference, it has about 9625 hours:


128 VOL SUS

113 VOL OFFSET

039 VOL RST P

085 VOL XPOPS1

063 VOL XPOFS2

138 VOL YKNOFS1 D

128 VOL YKNOFS3 D

149 VOL YKNOFS4 D

128 VOL YKNOFSA D

read the guide again

you must quit controlcal and start again without any profile loaded

then you can untick HEX input

you cant untick HEX input if you have a profile open such as the tv special profile.


ok thats interesting

i can see right now that some of them differs alot compared to my 5090

the ones that differ most is VOL RST P and VOL OFFSET.

but you dont change those after the reset so they should not affect anything.


i leave it to Stu03 to answer the questions about the stock settings for the Elites.

check with him later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShockFett  /t/1510500/reset-guide-pioneer-9g-kuro-take-2#post_24188053


Also can you adjust back some to stop the "black rain"? Does it effect anything else?

yes

just raise YKNOFSAD or YKNOFS1D (see wxmans post and his settings compared to the recomended settings)

i think he had some other issues with black blotches and black lag thats why he was forced to raise those values more.

i dont think the "black rain" was the main problem for him


the black rain is not affecting anything else except for entering the menus and when you change display ratio.

i have them also but they also brings down the blacks to the floor or more right to the basement
so they stay.

thats the trade off
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShockFett  /t/1510500/reset-guide-pioneer-9g-kuro-take-2#post_24188053


The straight rs323 cable. From what I understand it's the same cable from old monitor pc connection? I have several old ones here.

no thats VGA cables

rs232 looks almost the same but its not the same cable.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShockFett  /t/1510500/reset-guide-pioneer-9g-kuro-take-2#post_24188053



The straight rs323 cable. From what I understand it's the same cable from old monitor pc connection? I have several old ones here.

RS232 is a serial connection, only nine pins. VGA has 15. You need a female to female cable if you are going to use it with a KeySpan.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchPope  /t/1510500/reset-guide-pioneer-9g-kuro-take-2#post_24188049


I would like to do a reset to my 101, but I can't get my panel to connect with Hyperterminal. I have ControlCal, but it won't let me uncheck HEX input. I have been able to get KuroControl to work, but I only get text strings as a response, not sure how to display it on screen.


These are what my current values are for reference, it has about 9625 hours:


128 VOL SUS

113 VOL OFFSET

039 VOL RST P

085 VOL XPOPS1

063 VOL XPOFS2

138 VOL YKNOFS1 D

128 VOL YKNOFS3 D

149 VOL YKNOFS4 D

128 VOL YKNOFSA D

We need more of these settings thanks for posting them.


People posted a lot of their settings over two years ago when the red tint thread started then it practicaly stopped althogether.


All these default settings/numbers are exactly the same as my 500M (except for RSTP which is 13 i believe if i remember rightly)... These are identical to my default KRP500(A) also (except for RSTP again which was 18)which was afflicted with raised MLL and red tint before i fixed it eventualy.


I believe the main differences between the KRPA "tv" and the ELITE monitors and KRP monitors lies in the way their address set up driving/settings are set up differently to the tv's along with a couple of other minor but different nevertheless settings to be given the "monitor" label. These settings are found in the PANEL FUNCTION option. But I truly believe that the ADDRESS settings are truly only for plasma engineers. These are far more complex than the voltages we are playing about with and are very complex as to what they do and how and why.


Also a few things are very different in the PAN - 2 ADJ on the KRP monitor in stark contrast to the KRP tv media box version. ABL only one of quite a few.


Anyway...


On the second voltage page below YKNOFSAD... Starting with RESET1ST_KSB 128...Presumably all the numbers are 128 also same as here ? - i believe all of these are the same across all KURO models afaik.


Which reminds me - there are two voltages on that second page that had an effect on static misfiring on the KRPA. It's a long time ago now but it cleared a couple of small artefacts on white parts of the image like little blue lazy pixels and a few remaining static/flickering red/magenta pixels/misfiring. I believe the voltages were the Y SUS B and X SUS B.


But in reality i discoved the effects of these after about the third practice reset of the 500A...But by the last one i had narrowed it down to the four voltages on the first page (YKNOFSAD, VOL SUS, YKNOFS3D and YKNOFSAD) i have mentioned many times by now and didnt really have any need for these two voltages on the second page.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03  /t/1510500/reset-guide-pioneer-9g-kuro-take-2/30#post_24188505


All these default settings/numbers are exactly the same as my 500M .

then the recomended voltage settings after the reset should suit the Elites as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Stu03

i will get the KRP 600A next week to do the reset on.

how different is the servicemenu on those and yours compared to the 5090?


i can post the before and after blacklevels on the KRP 600 here

also how the reset went.
 

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After the reset, is it normal to have to raise Brightness from +1 to +4 in order to see all details near black?


Up until I did the reset nearly 2 weeks ago, I've been using ISF-Day mode, calibrated by the one-and-only D-Nice. Brightness in this ISF mode has been set at +1 in the User Menu, which is grayed out (I cannot change anything), and I've always been able to see details near black.


After the reset, details near black are completely blended into the "blackness" at Brightness +1 in all modes.


I cannot increase Brightness in the User Menu for ISF-Day (remember, it's grayed out), to see if I could raise the OLED-like black level a little, so that details near black become visible.


So, what I ended up doing was switching to Pure mode, and increasing the Brightness from +1 to +4, so that details near black became visible.


What I really wanted was to continue using my D-Nice-calibrated ISF-Day, but I have no choice but to "settle" for Pure.


Does any of this sound abnormal?


Does anyone have any thoughts on this?


Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn1  /t/1510500/reset-guide-pioneer-9g-kuro-take-2/30#post_24190274


After the reset, is it normal to have to raise Brightness from +1 to +4 in order to see all details near black?

Thanks.

gamma near black is probably higher thats why

you need to raise YKNOFS1D or YKNOFSAD


set brightness to where you had it a +1

put up the black clipping file that is all black i asume

start to raise only YKNOFS1D and see if the blinking bars starts to show up.


also keep an eye on the blacks with the 5% white window.

raising YKNOFS1D to high will change the blacks to dark gray.


what are your settings for YKNOFS1D or YKNOFSAD now?


wxman has his YKNOFS1D at 123 and YKNOFSA D 140

both higher than the recomended settings
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pg_ice  /t/1510500/reset-guide-pioneer-9g-kuro-take-2/30#post_24190342


gamma near black is probably higher thats why

you need to raise YKNOFS1D or YKNOFSAD


set brightness to where you had it a +1

put up the black clipping file that is all black i asume

start to raise only YKNOFS1D and see if the blinking bars starts to show up.


also keep an eye on the blacks with the 5% white window.


what are your settings for YKNOFS1D or YKNOFSAD now?
Thank you for replying.


YKNOFS1D is 112 (from factory default of 138).


YKNOFSAD is 148 (from factory default of 128).


I will follow your advice later on tonight when it gets dark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn1  /t/1510500/reset-guide-pioneer-9g-kuro-take-2/30#post_24190381


YKNOFS1D is 112 (from factory default of 138).


YKNOFSAD is 148 (from factory default of 128).

try to set YKNOFSAD at 128 first before the test and then only raise YKNOFS1D

i think you will se a better result then
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pg_ice  /t/1510500/reset-guide-pioneer-9g-kuro-take-2/30#post_24190470


try to set YKNOFSAD at 128 first before the test and then only raise YKNOFS1D

i think you will se a better result then
I am looking forward to trying that later on tonight. Thank you.
 
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