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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,


I'm very interested in the Pioneer Kuro Plasma televisions and looking for a 50 inch model. There is a $1,000 price difference between the elite and non elite model and I was wondering if you thought it was justifiable and is there a noticeable difference in picture quality between the two. Also is the sound quality identical?


Thanks
 

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If you plan on getting calibrated for sure yes! It also depends on budget but many will tell you even out of the box they can tell the 111 is better plus there is a AVS special on them in the AVS classifieds thread for AVS members. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks.


Hey I can't seem to find that special. I looked in the AVS classifieds and I only see three plasmas and a person just looking to trade theirs for another model.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dools767 /forum/post/15457429


Thanks.


Hey I can't seem to find that special. I looked in the AVS classifieds and I only see three plasmas and a person just looking to trade theirs for another model.

Look under "specials" in the AVS classified section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks. If you remove the side speakers on the elite model will you still have audio? In other words is it built into the bottom etc. I think it looks better without the speakers.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dools767 /forum/post/15458956


Thanks. If you remove the side speakers on the elite model will you still have audio? In other words is it built into the bottom etc. I think it looks better without the speakers.

Nope; if you remove the side speakers, you'll have, well, no audio. If you want the bottom speaker, you should go with the non-elite 5020. If you get the elite, you could use a separate audio system and keep the speakers off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It would be nice to see a Pioneer Elite 111FD for $2500. If it were that price, I'd buy it.

For some reason that television isn't as discounted as the 5020 is on some websites.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dools767 /forum/post/15460498


It would be nice to see a Pioneer Elite 111FD for $2500. If it were that price, I'd buy it.

For some reason that television isn't as discounted as the 5020 is on some websites.

It might be because it is the best reviewed tv in the world and as such demand is sky high?



Just sayin....
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dools767 /forum/post/15460498


It would be nice to see a Pioneer Elite 111FD for $2500. If it were that price, I'd buy it.

For some reason that television isn't as discounted as the 5020 is on some websites.

That would be poor business marketing. Elite is marketed to the highest end. Heavy discounting would devalue it.


The Non-Elite Kuro can be made to compete on price against the other manufacturers without a need to devalue the Elite.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well the price of the Kuro is in light of the economy and the fact that Pioneer isn't selling these. I'm not sure what price Pioneer sells to Kuro resellers, but these businesses need to sell these televisions as well. Considering that you can get a Non Elite Kuro that has a regular price of $3500 for $2200 I can't see why you can't get a comparable discount on the Elite Kuro. If you want to keep the price high to keep the Kuro valued than you should do the same for the non elite model. The non elite is still a Kuro.
 

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Elite sets are not huge volume mass market targeted. They are the best fp display but many people are happy with less than that and would find it hard to tell the difference. For those videophiles who can they either pay the elite premium or get as close as possible for less ...5020. Makes good sense to me. No different than high end audio rigs. You pay a premium for improvement above a certain level and always have.
 

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OP that question has been asked soo much, but here is what chad had to say,


TO ELITE OR NOT TO ELITE, THAT IS THE QUESTION........




I originally bought the 6020 (same as 5020, just 10 inches bigger),

And after having it for about a month or two, I decided to sell it and get the PRO-151FD (same as Pro-111FD, just 10 inches bigger).


There were many reasons I had for getting the elite.


My best advise would be to get the elite if you can afford it.

But if you get the Non-elite instead, Don't Fret! The non-elites are awesome and very similar.

Basically, they are the same panel. Its just that Pioneer put a settings lock on the non-elite.



Here is my earlier responce to this issue:


Quote:
Originally Posted by chadmak09 /forum/post/14378957


Guys,


I have been getting alot of PM's from people who are stuck between the non-elite (5020/6020) and the Elites (PRO-111FD / PRO-151FD).


This is because I have had the PDP-6020FD for about a month or so and decided to sell it and buy an elite Pro-151FD.


The PM's I get are all about the same. What are the differences, and is it worth it.


I have compiled the list of differences (settings / features).

(I probably have forgotten a few things so please let me know and I will add it to the list if I did.)



So here is my answer:


Elite (111/151 OR 5020/6020)?????


It depends on what kind of person you are really to choose between the elite and 6020.


If you want the best color accuracy possible and like to have a number of settings at your disposal, then the elite is for you.


If you are the type of person who wants great color depth, black levels, contrast, not the best color accuracy (but very good),etc. and doesn't place alot of importance in being able to tweak the set to perfection, then the non-elite is for you.


If you think that you may be one of those who doesn't really want to dial in the picture and will use optimum mode most of the time, Then go with the non-elite.

IMO, If you are going to use optimum mode as your main setting then you do not need the elite because the non-elite also has it (just without the color sensor).


Here are the settings/features the Elites (111/151) have:
Settings:


1. Brighness

2. Sharpness

3. Color

4. Contrast

5. Tint

6. A/V selection (Optimum/Performance/PURE/Movie/Sport/Game/Standard)

7. Pure cinema selection (Film mode ON/OFF, Text optimization ON/OFF)

8. Intelligent mode (OFF / MODE1 / MODE2)

9. DRE (Off / HIGH / MID / LOW)

10. BLK LVL (ON / OFF)

11. ACL (ON / OFF)

12. Enhanser mode (1 / 2 / 3)

13. GAMMA selection (1 / 2 / 3)

14. Color temp (Manual/LOW/Mid-LOW/Mid/Mid-High/High)

15. CTI (ON / OFF)

16. Color management (R / Y / G / C / B / M)

17. Color space (1 / 2)

18. 3DNR (OFF / HIGH / MID / LOW)

19. Field NR (OFF / HIGH / MID / LOW)

20. Block NR (ON / OFF)

21. Mosquito NR (OFF / ON)


Features:


1. Color sensor (not availible with non-elites)

2. Backlit remote (not availible with non-elites. But you can order the 151 remote from Pioneer and use it on your 6020)

3. Elite color filter. (not availible with non-elites)



Here are the Features/Settings the non-elites (5020/6020) have:
1. Brighness

2. Sharpness

3. Color

4. Contrast

5. Tint

6. A/V selection (Optimum/Performance/Movie/Sport/Game/Standard/NO PURE MODE)

7. Pure cinema selection (Film mode ON/OFF, Text optimization ON/OFF)



So the big question is does the 6020 have enough settings/features for you?


Either way you go you will have an awesome set.

The 6020 is beyond words, but the elite breaks all boudaries IMO.



So it is really up to you if the price difference is worth it. In my case it was.


-Hope this helps you. Let me know if you want more info!


-Chadmak09




RED=ELITE BLUE=NON-ELITE
 

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Is repairing a cracked Kuro 60" model screen possible, or does the whole thing have to be replaced? i.e. expensive?


someone on ebay has several of these for sell under $1k, tempting IF something like a Window Crack repair stuff would work on it. Big IF
 

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I'd expect that it goes well beyond simply "fixing the glass", you know, considering plasma is a gas that is (I believe) stored between the two glass panes. If there's a crack, how do you know you have any plasma left in the set?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solo4114 /forum/post/15611761


I'd expect that it goes well beyond simply "fixing the glass", you know, considering plasma is a gas that is (I believe) stored between the two glass panes. If there's a crack, how do you know you have any plasma left in the set?

from reading, I beleive the Kuro is a solid piece of glass so more expensive to replace, probably over $2k.


I think the auctions claim the TV's turn on, they want $900 bucks for them though. May be worth it at half that, if you are positive that it can be repaired resonably...and if you want a 60" Kuro too of course.
 

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check rules in my sig please


Thanks
 

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^^^ my apologize... slipped my mind in the excitement of my new purchase yesterday
 
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