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Thanks. In my haste to post this morning, I forgot I actually have the 6010FD rather than the 6020FD. But I found other sources for the 6010FD boards.

However, I know from my previous repair experience that there are multiple versions of the boards. So I guess I'll have to pull it off the wall mount, crack it open, and see what I've got. Hopefully I still have the stand.

Just yesterday, my wife invited some friends over on Sat for a movie night. So she's already reading up on the latest OLED displays.
 

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Hi, Has anyone taken time to document best settings for use with Apple TV 4?

I wandered into the video settings options in ATV4 and now have it really washed out...YPBr versus RGBHigh/Low, multiple different supported options HDR/SDR, 60hz, 50hz.

Is there an optimum "Automatic" way to make my 5020 and the ATV4 get along?
never mind, found a useful video. Here it is for anyone else lining up the ATV 4K with Kuro.


its stunning how inky black the Kuro still is...
 

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Well I went and looked when I bought my 5020fd, apparently it was 2011. So going on 9 years soon. Gotta have at least 20k hours, it’s used 4-5 hours a night in my bedroom but has pulled many all nighters. Always been on power saver. I have started to get a few pixels that take a while to seem to warm up when I first turn it on (appear as blue when displaying full white). Otherwise it looks fine. I don’t even know if taking it off power saver would remedy the problem. It has lasted long enough to get me to the OLEDs. I will probably use it until it dies mainly because I don’t feel like moving it.
 

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Pdp5080-hd

Purchased 2008. Used as main home theater TV until 2017. Still soldiering on in the exercise room. Used with DirecTV, AppleTV, XBox in the past. Now just DirecTV and AppleTV (switching to YouTube TV currently). Probably good for many more years. The black levels are still incredible.
 

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What current market models, LCD, plasma (if any) or OLED models, beat the Kuros in terms of blacks, color fidelity , overall image and reliability?
 

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What current market models, LCD, plasma (if any) or OLED models, beat the Kuros in terms of blacks, color fidelity , overall image and reliability?
The top of the line flagship OLED models from all the majors (Sony, LG, Panasonic) beat the Kuros in terms of blacks, brightness, highlights, and contrast.

They also probably beat the Kuro in terms of color fidelity in a strict technical sense (meaning what a calibration meter measures, the measured color compared to the input signal). However, many people coming from plasma find the OLED picture to be somewhat "cartoony" and not as natural or cinematic as plasma. This is a pretty common comment.

Motion handling on OLED is awful. It's inherent in the sample-and-hold technology used by OLED panels, versus the impulse technology used by plasma panels.

EDIT: And in terms of reliability, nothing currently available holds a candle to Kuro. Those things were built like tanks. My daughter and her husband are still using the 5010 that I bought at Costco in early 2008, and it still works and looks great -- and we used it quite heavily before we passed it on. Televisions today are built with no concern for reliability and longevity.
 

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Better late than never I suppose. Upgraded the Panasonic 720p plasma in my home office earlier this week.



And what replaced the Panny, well another 720p plasma of course, my first Pioneer plasma, a mint PDP-5080HD which I scored for $60 per the below.



It's been sitting on my piano bench for the past few days. Jumped on Craigslist purchasing the below TV stand for $70 today.











Truth be told, I've been more than satisfied with the Panny. If it weren't for the fact it doesn't accept 1080p signals I probably never would have upgraded. The Pioneer of course accepts all flavors of 1080p. Pretty sweet. Great looking picture as well. The speakers are even decent. Color me impressed. And the icing on the cake, the serial port. Love me some serial control. Downloaded a copy of the service manual which includes all the serial commands. Well, most of them. The ones not included in the service manual I found elsewhere. Love having discretes for everything. My Pronto based remote control system is happy now. :p
 

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What HD Ready Panasonic Plasma did you own? Because even the 2008 PX8 could accept 1080p..

Congrats to your new collection of Plasma TVs.. I am still lurking for the 42inch variant of your Pioneer.. But they are rare in my country..
 

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What HD Ready Panasonic Plasma did you own? Because even the 2008 PX8 could accept 1080p..

Congrats to your new collection of Plasma TVs.. I am still lurking for the 42inch variant of your Pioneer.. But they are rare in my country..
I guess I do have a collection of plasma TV's now. :p My Panasonic is a TH-50PH9UK. It was manufacturered in 2006. Like I said, absolutely nothing wrong with it. Provides a striking image. I've just been longing for 1080p support in my home office (Zone 2) as everything out in the living room (Zone 1) runs at 1080p. It's been a pain off and on with the Panny only supporting signals up to 1080i. I had to set all my sources to auto-detect the supported resolution to accomodate and some things I had to just set to run at 1080i all the time. Things like my Apple TV 4K for instance would switch to 720p for the Panny (Zone 2), but not always switch back to 1080p for my Runco (Zone 1) front projector. I also have a dedicated HTPC that runs My Movies for Windows Media Center 24/7.



I'd been limiting my use of My Movies for Windows Media Center to Zone 1 (1080p) as Windows Media Center would often go to a black screen when I'd try to then bring it up in Zone 2 (1080i). I'd then have to grab my wireless keyboard and fight with Windows shutting down and restarting Windows Media Center. Total PITA. Guess those days are behind me now. The days of setting the HDMI output for my Onkyo receiver based on the Zone I'm in, those days are behind me now as well. Gotta love it! Prior I was sending the discrete for the Main or Sub HDMI output based on the Zone my remote was set to control. Pretty sweet being able to output to the Main and Sub HDMI outputs at the same time now, since both displays support 1080p signals.
 

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I still love my 111FD, but I’ve had vertical rows of pixels stuck on a a single color spanning the length of the screen for a few years now.

Kind of sucks cause I read through this thread and doesn’t seem like anyone else was as unlucky as me and are still enjoying perfectly working sets. I’d be in no rush to replace mine if it weren’t for these vertical lines. It started with just one, but over the last few years more have sprung up, all grouped together on the left side of the screen.

If there’s any hope at getting it repaired I might consider keeping it, but honestly, now that LG’s implemented some better BFI with the X line, getting a new OLED sounds pretty nice.
 

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I still love my 111FD, but I’ve had vertical rows of pixels stuck on a a single color spanning the length of the screen for a few years now.

Kind of sucks cause I read through this thread and doesn’t seem like anyone else was as unlucky as me and are still enjoying perfectly working sets. I’d be in no rush to replace mine if it weren’t for these vertical lines. It started with just one, but over the last few years more have sprung up, all grouped together on the left side of the screen.

If there’s any hope at getting it repaired I might consider keeping it, but honestly, now that LG’s implemented some better BFI with the X line, getting a new OLED sounds pretty nice.
Might just be an internal ribbon cable seating/re-seating issue you're having with your set. Maybe look into that.
 

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Kuro Mystique

I have never seen a Kuro in person. Is it really as legendary as people say it is?

I went from a 46" Panasonic TC-P46G25 plasma display to my current 65" Sony XBR-A9G OLED television.

Needless to say, I missed the boat on the Kuro (which I couldn't afford in 2009 as I was a poor University undergrad.:()
 

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Motion handling on OLED is awful. It's inherent in the sample-and-hold technology used by OLED panels, versus the impulse technology used by plasma panels.

EDIT: And in terms of reliability, nothing currently available holds a candle to Kuro. Those things were built like tanks. My daughter and her husband are still using the 5010 that I bought at Costco in early 2008, and it still works and looks great -- and we used it quite heavily before we passed it on. Televisions today are built with no concern for reliability and longevity.
Humm,
so if should you come from a Kuro and need to buy a new panel with no regrets, what would you buy?

Who knows if any unsold KRP-600M are still available somwhere....
 

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Humm,
so if should you come from a Kuro and need to buy a new panel with no regrets, what would you buy?

Who knows if any unsold KRP-600M are still available somwhere....
What would I buy, and what would I buy with no regrets, are two different questions.

There is nothing available that I would buy with no regrets. Heck, I had some regrets when I replaced my Kuro 5010 with a Samsung 64F8500 because I realized that plasma was going away soon, and if I wanted to go from 50" to 65" with plasma I had to do it soon, and Pioneer was no longer in that business. I really liked the 64" screen, and it was brighter than my Kuro, but even after being calibrated by Chad B it never had the natural, refined picture of the Kuro. When I see that Kuro 5010 these days (my daughter and her husband are still using it at their place 12.5 years after I bought it), I do a double-take because there's just something about the picture.

Another issue with OLED that I forgot about above is that there are NO, and I mean NO, OLED panels that are uniform, due to the manufacturing process. They all have visible banding and tinting. The banding is obvious at 5% - 10% gray, and the tinting can be noticeable on bright white fields. The only question is whether you get a panel on which these problems are visible enough to bother you in the content that you watch in your lighting conditions. I was lucky with my OLED; the tinting is minimal; and the banding and blotching, while obvious on a 5% gray slide, doesn't bother me in actual use with my content and lighting conditions. It's a "panel lottery". Not all are as lucky as me, some people have had to return two, or even return three, panels before they got one acceptable to them. In the OLED world, there's a kind of fatalism, "There's no such thing as a perfect panel".

There's a discussion here:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-oled-technology-flat-panels-general/2896737-oled-screen-uniformity-discussion-banding-vignetting.html

That thread is 3 years old, and has gotten extremely long, but skimming just the last 10 pages gives a pretty good idea of the state of things these days.

Edit: Yeah, this is a good page to start on:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-oled-technology-flat-panels-general/2896737-oled-screen-uniformity-discussion-banding-vignetting-300.html

The best alternative these days is a top-of-the-line OLED from Sony or LG or (if available in your country) Panasonic.

They all use the same panel, as OLED panels are only available from one source, LG Display. So the differences are in other features, processing, etc.

Panasonic supposedly makes very good OLED units, but they are not widely available.

Between LG and Sony, LG is less expensive, is better for gaming, has HDMI 2.1, has what some people think is a much better user interface, has a picture with slightly more "pop", but has somewhat inferior motion handling and upscaling. Sony is more expensive, worse for gaming, does not yet have HDMI 2.1, has a slightly more subdued picture, in 2018 at least had some issues with overly-aggressive ABL, but has slightly better motion handling and upscaling. They've been recently discussing it all here:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-oled-technology-flat-panels-general/3153578-best-65-inch-oled-tv-buy-today.html

When my 64F8500 died (due to sketchy Samsung quality, using ceramic capacitors that were not rated for the temperatures inside the unit, leading to Y-Sustain board failure), I had to move relatively quickly to keep the wife happy. I ended up getting the LG 65C8, due to the Sony's cost and (at that time at least) ABL issues. I sometimes regret not getting the Sony, because motion handling issues are a subjective thing that vary from person to person, and I turned out to be someone who is very sensitive to it.

I definitely regret giving up the plasma TV, except when I am watching something in 4K HDR or Dolby Vision. There really is something magical about HDR and DV.
 

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If you like the Plasma TV look, you have to stick with Plasma.. Only Plasma TV will give you that digital CRT look..

I tried a fancy 4k Panasonic LCD TV last year, the most expensive small sized LCD on the market in europe, and yess, there are many cons for lcd tech (power draw, brightness, no burn in, etc..) but it also made the strengths of Plasma so evident..

With the new consoles hopefully running at 60fps with all games on 1080p you get razor sharp motion. No modern display tech can compete.. These Plasmas have higher resolution in motion.. Just forget 4k.. it is great for Show Demos and PC (text, documents)

Uncharted 2 remastered for example was a VA Panel smearing mess in dark areas.. And with that same content you have banding issues with Oled.. Plasma just nails it.. You dont even see that these are challenging scenes.. So many Netflix series are shot dark with tons of shadow detail.. Like this one:

Banding with Oleds..
 
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