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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am playing with an Ampro 3600p that is in excellent shape, no tube burns or wear.

I have got it basically setup and converged, but it is not quite as sharp as it should, or could be....also it is very dark.

I have to bump up my TheaterTek brightness to it's max, and increase the Ampro's brightness also to a very high point.

I am feeding it with HTPC,with Radeon vid card, set at [email protected], the feed cable is 20ft long...could it be that my HTPC's output signal strength is to low?


Another problem I'm having...when I try to increase the Horizonal amplitude (size) I get to a certain size and the picture starts to distort very badly.


Any ideas are appreciated, Kenny
 

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Kenny,


We were discussing the Ampro brightness issue in a recent thread. When I first got my 4200 three years ago it too was very dim. I played with the sub-brites and contrast pots on the rgb card to get a reasonable picture. I think you can do all that thru the remote on a 3600.


I recently got two "new in box" Ampro 2000G models. On both I realized that I had to be at 92% brightness on both to even see the Avia black level setup bars while looking into the crt's. These units are calibrated as they left the factory, so it seemed rather odd.


A little further research in the service manual revealed that the factory calibrated everything with a 1.0 volt video signal level. Since most of the video cards and line doublers put out a 0.7 volt level, you obviously start at a dis-advantage. An in-line amp with some gain would probably remedy the problem.


My 4200 has the same width breakup problem. It seems to be a function of scan frequency. If I watch a line doubled source at 32khz, I can go all the way to the sdge of the crt's. Around 48 khz I have to start cranking back on the width quite a bit. At 80khz, it's really cut back. I don't know what the problem is, but I would sure like to find out. I'd like to get this thing up to it's full potential.


Ray
 

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Hi Ray,


Kenny and I were just discussing this on the phone and had hypothesized about the video signal level. Thanks for coming in here and providing a little clarity to the issues. I have an interest in this as well because I will have my hands on a 4300 very soon.


--Jerome
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Jerome sent me the link to the thread about setting G2 on the neck boards...I may try that within the next couple days...for now increasing my TheaterTek Brightness setting has taken care of it. The Contrast seems to be ok as it is.

I'm seeing something else that is strange...this started latest night after the pj had been running for several hours. The internal crosshatch pattern's geometry doesn't match the HTPC with AVIA showing it's crosshatch!

The first couple hours the internal crosshatch gave me a good clean windows desk top...however later I noticed two corners that were way out of convergence...pull up the internal test pattern, everything looks great, back to the desk top, it's way out.

So I converged it using AVIA, and the desk top looks good again, but of coarse the internal crosshatch is way off???

This mourning I fire it up, just to see how stable it is...now the internal crosshatch geometry & convergence is way off, BUT the HTPC/AVIA crosshatch geometry is right on target???
 

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Don't make the same convergance mistake I did. I used to tweak it with the cover open and the registration board flipped up. Later when I closed it all up to actually watch something, it didn't look right.


I finally realized that the registration board steel tray has an effect on the fields around the crt's, thus impacting proper convergance. Now I always close the cover, and let it get to operating temp first.


Kenny, are you running the internal crosshatch at the same sync frequency as the HTPC? On my older Ampro's, it's a remote "4 Test" command to display the test patterns which are then locked to the sync freq of the external device.


Ray
 

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I was having the same problem with the picture breaking up when I tried to increase the width. You can use powerstrip to correct this. Play around with the front and back porch settings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi guys, back from a day away...

Ray, then I converged it the covers were closed down, my NEC does the same thing when it's covers are open, I'd think they all "misconverge" to some extent when the magnetic field is changed by opening access covers and what not. Andre has told me to use "4-test"...this is the sync'ed test pattern. I was just punching up "test"...new pj, new things to learn.

Thurman...exactly what does changing the front and back porch do? Can I screw up the pj adjusting this?

How do I know when I get it right? With the Blanking opened all the way up, I'm getting out of focus wrap around scanning of each horizonal line in the crosshatch pattern, will those disappear when I get the front and back porch set right?


Thanks, Kenny
 

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I have the same problem with wraparound when the blanking is opened up. It has been a while since I adjusted the porch settings and I don't remember if they affected the wraparound.


My problem was that I initially could not get my HTPC to fill the screen completely, but my 1080i source would fill it. When I started playing around with the porch settings, I could get a much wider picture.


While experimenting with the porch settings, I did have a couple of scary moments when the picture was all screwed up and I cancelled out of those settings immediately.
 

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That overlap is normal in the test mode. I have all of them do that. Just bring the blanking in until it goes away. It's much less disracting converging that way.


Curt
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Curt, is that overlap normal, I notice my XG also does it.

Is that the guns not shutting off all the way?


Right now the Ampro has plenty of Raster in the horizonal (side to side) but none showing vertically (top and bottom)

Perhaps front/back porch adjustments can remedy this.

I have an email in to ERV monitors to see if they can answer this question for me.
 
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