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I know nothing about JTR
so I guess we can interpret your comments as uninformed. I appreciate most of your comments on the forum, but these ones seemed misplaced. I ran into the same problem as @hughhugh and decided to go DIY as well. I spoke with Jeff once over the phone and he offered multiple suggestions and options, but in follow up he didn’t respond to my email and I didn’t feel comfortable dropping that much money on him doing a custom designed build for me with the lack of communication. In speaking personally with parts manufacturers that have worked with Jeff they had nothing by great things to say about him. I got the impression that the demand is very high and he just can’t keep up. He keeps it a 1 man show and he seems to be doing just fine.
 

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I just could not let this go unanswered. I am not defending the reported lack of any replies to the OP. Something must be amis and I hope nothing bad has occurred in Jeff's life. However, having met the man "over many phone conversations and email exchanges" he is the exact polar opposite of the personality traits you have concluded must exist. Why take this leap, your posts are normally free of this kind of negative speculation.

Jeff is a one man show. He designs, hand builds and personally tests and tunes each sub/speaker to order. On top of that he does Shows and Expos. His products are incredibly highly rated. He is reportedly running in excess of 2 months backlog in orders and builds. Some things in life are worth waiting for. Up to the individual to decide what they are.
 
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so I guess we can interpret your comments as uninformed.
Yes you can, especially since that's exactly how I prefaced my comments: as conjecture and inference. :)

Conjecture and inference based on what I know other ID companies do as a routine and essential part of their business model, in order to survive as an ID business which relies on word of mouth and solid one-on-one customer service instead of mass advertising a la Bose. I'm happy to hear that my character speculations are completely off---but still, failure to respond over the course of say a week or two due to extenuating circumstances or overwork, that I think could be tolerated--but "over a month" as the OP reports??? I agree with @AdamG and hope that nothing catastrophic has befallen him.
 

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Jeff (along with another popular AVS sub vendor whose products are awesome and worth the wait) do seem to have occasions when demand outstrips capacity, which I suspect costs some sales. And I don't really blame people for moving on if that's the case. But, whatever. Jeff and the other vendor I am referring to are heavy hitters as far as the product they deliver and sometimes you just gotta wait if you want the goods. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #126
Yes, I understand. Its not an issue of being patience. I'm sure its worth it. The dedication from the owners of this group speak volumes.

That being said, I'm not waiting for the goods to be built. I'm not even on the production queue. Should there be a follow up/service question (not that I expect one), I dont want to be left standing in the cold (sorry if this is the wrong phrase...)

Anyhow, perhaps our path just hasnt crossed yet. The diy products seem to be sufficient for me and I'm actually looking forward to building those :D
Amazingly enough, although we have many different kind of wood, we actually dont have baltic birch here.
 

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Discussion Starter #128
@jjackkrash

Yes. I'm going with
LCR : model 1299
Surround : model HTM12
Atmos: model Volt12

I actually like model 1899 for the LCR but Erich of DYISG feels very strongly that I shouldnt :) , given my room size.

Since my original aim was svs, I hope this would be at least in between the JTR and the SVS. I'll just have to be content with that ;)
 

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@jjackkrash

Yes. I'm going with
LCR : model 1299
Surround : model HTM12
Atmos: model Volt12

I actually like model 1899 for the LCR but Erich of DYISG feels very strongly that I shouldnt :) , given my room size.

Since my original aim was svs, I hope this would be at least in between the JTR and the SVS. I'll just have to be content with that ;)
That set up would be sick with big subs. I'd take that set up over any speaker made by SVS without blinking. ;)


1899s are overkill, but sometimes there's no kill like overkill. :)
 

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@jjackkrash

Yes. I'm going with
LCR : model 1299
Surround : model HTM12
Atmos: model Volt12

I actually like model 1899 for the LCR but Erich of DYISG feels very strongly that I shouldnt :) , given my room size.

Since my original aim was svs, I hope this would be at least in between the JTR and the SVS. I'll just have to be content with that ;)
I have Volt 10’s, 8’s and 6’s. I use the 10’s as mains in my video game system, they are spectacular. I didn’t see Volt-12’s on the site, is that a typo or is Eric releasing these?
 

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Discussion Starter #132
@jjackkrash , we'll see. Crossing my fingers.
For subs I'm thinking on diy also (might as well). One driver that seems popular on the forum is the HST-18 from StereoIntegrity.net . I'm looking at these...
@raynist , you are right. My fingers were not agreeing with my brain. It should have been Volt10 :)
 

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Discussion Starter #133
That set up would be sick with big subs. I'd take that set up over any speaker made by SVS without blinking. ;)


1899s are overkill, but sometimes there's no kill like overkill. :)
Thats what I thought. But Erich seems to think that this is overkill-overkill. The distance wouldnt be enough for the speaker to sound good. So I'd be crazy not to listen.
I would have thought to just lower the volume if its too loud :) . I guess not.

The crazy part is it will probably be cheaper than the svs package I calculated. We'll see after I have the cabinet built.
 

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Thats what I thought. But Erich seems to think that this is overkill-overkill. The distance wouldnt be enough for the speaker to sound good. So I'd be crazy not to listen.
I would have thought to just lower the volume if its too loud :) . I guess not.

The crazy part is it will probably be cheaper than the svs package I calculated. We'll see after I have the cabinet built.
The 12's are plenty, I was just teasing. Erich won't steer you wrong. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #135
The 12's are plenty, I was just teasing. Erich won't steer you wrong. :)
:) haha, yes. I'd thought so.
Too bad the crossover for 1299 is not in stock. Currently trying to figure out if I can do it without the premade board. I suspect its just like lego...with a chance of electrocution.
 

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:) haha, yes. I'd thought so.
Too bad the crossover for 1299 is not in stock. Currently trying to figure out if I can do it without the premade board. I suspect its just like lego...with a chance of electrocution.
There will be lots of soldering.

I built the crossovers for my volt 8’s which were easy. The 1299 is probably much more complex.

I bought the pre-made crossovers for the 10’s and 6’s.
 

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Discussion Starter #137
There will be lots of soldering.

I built the crossovers for my volt 8’s which were easy. The 1299 is probably much more complex.

I bought the pre-made crossovers for the 10’s and 6’s.
Its been ages since I soldered anything. Would be much easier if the pcb board is provided. Less chance of making a wrong connection. But it looks like it'll be a while before they come back to stock.
(It says a set of crossover part only. On volt models it states "custom crossover board" in addition to crossover parts. So the pcb might not be included). :(
 

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Discussion Starter #139
Can I ask what the 40hz means for an amp spec that says "4 ohms 40hz" ?

I'm looking at
http://www.speakerpower.net

And the spec table says
Rated power 2 ohms 40Hz 1% TH= D+N
Rated power 4 ohms 40Hz =
Rated power 8 ohms=

This is to be used with either a dual 18" in a box
http://stereointegrity.com/product/hst18-18-subwoofer/

OR a single of 24" in a box
http://stereointegrity.com/product/hs24-24-subwoofer/

I havent decided which sub yet. But seeing a single 24" uses 2000W, whereas dual 18" use 4000W, I'm thinking dual 24" is where the value is for me.

Thank you for the feedback
 

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Can I ask what the 40hz means for an amp spec that says "4 ohms 40hz" ?

I'm looking at
http://www.speakerpower.net

And the spec table says
Rated power 2 ohms 40Hz 1% TH= D+N
Rated power 4 ohms 40Hz =
Rated power 8 ohms=

...
It means that the rated power output of the amp is determined using a 40Hz Sine wave input signal.

With that signal at the input jack, the amp is driven to 1% THD+N (a common definition of clipping) when hooked up to a dummy load of specified resistance (2Ω, 4Ω etc) to determine the minimum rated power output.
 
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