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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First, I am totally new to working with component systems as I prepare for my summer project. I have spent the last several weeks pouring over the posts about power conditioning and battery backups. Needless to say, there are certainly pros/cons on both sides of the equation.


So what I have decided is that I *DO* want to get a battery backup for my equipment. Power conditioning seems to be a nice to have, but the UPS is the important thing.


I have been trying to spec out how much wattage or VA I would need to make sure I have the right amount of protection for my equipment. Here is the setup I will be running come summer:
  • Pioneer Elite SC-27 (140W x 7 (20Hz - 20kHz, .09% THD @ 8 ohms, All Channels Driven)) - Driving five 4 ohm Triad speakers around
  • Artison RCC600 Subwoofer with 600W (1000W RMS) amplifier
  • Yamaha RX-V661 (90W x 7)
  • Verizon FIOS digital box
  • OPPO BDP-63 (35W)
  • Monoprice 4x 2 HDMI Powered HDMI Matrix (Power supply: 5V DC 2A Adaptor)
  • Nintendo Wii
  • Gefen Digital Component + Audio => HDMI converter box
  • Sony KDL-40VXBR1


From my reading, I know some of these components can be surge only, and some should be on the battery. So that leads me to the next set of questions:


1) What devices should be on battery and which shouldn't?

2) How do you go about estimating the right size UPS?

3) There's a ton of stuff on brands out there, been leaning toward APC and at one point from Belkin, but I understand Belkin is exiting the UPS market, so it looks like APC is the way to go, unless you all have better recommendations.


Please chime in and help! Thank you!
 

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Panamax has some new battery back up units. Battery back up is for things that need to save information before shutting down such as computers and things with memory, gaming consoles. Also projectors need a cool down period for the hot bulbs. If you are not worried about anything with memory you may not need battery back up. I have two Panamax units. An M-7500Pro on my main system and a M-5400PM on another small system. Both are great units.
 

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Moose & Squirrel agree, you don't seem to have any equipment with volatile memory. Why do you want battery backup?


Also, most battery backup systems are sized to allow a computer time to shut down without losing anything in RAM. A computer uses a miniscule amount of power compared to an audio system and especially a home theater. A 10 minute battery serving a computer would last a minute or two powering an entertainment system.
 

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APC and Tripp-lite both are well respected names in the high end computer network and data server center world. Belkin is purely a consumer brand.


Considering most a/v equipment uses transformer based power supplies ( not switching power supplies like computers ), you should look for a UPS unit than provides a pure AC sine wave output when on batteries. Cheaper units provide a stepped square wave which can cause problems with transformers and motors.


If you do not have fairly frequent power outages, lightning storms that knock power line circuit breakers out, or dimming/flickering lights, then you probably do not need a full UPS. An in-line "power conditioner" with full surge surpression may be a better choice.


APC makes the H15 conditioner and the S15 conditioner with UPS

Tripp-Lite makes a SMART1500LCD UPS and separate filters for coax and network cables. Their "power conditioner" only filters the AC line voltage, all other surpressors are options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the incredible help. I was under the impression that I needed a battery backup for some of my equipment, like the amplifier or LCD tv. I do have a projector, but it is only used for outdoor projection.


The voltage is relatively stable, although we've had a brown out once in 4 years, so I would call that extremely abnormal. Thanks for the advice and I will look into those suggestions.
 

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since you mentioned a "brownout", both the APC conditioners and SmartUPS units, as well as the smart series Tripp-lites, also sense and handle low voltage conditions and boost the output voltage back to 115/120 volts AC. Many consumer grade units from other manufacturers do not do this....they only address high voltage conditions.


It is really an eye opener at my semi-rural central Kentucky home when the summer air conditioning season begins. My APC SmartUPS 1400 goes into boost mode during the heat of the day when all my new non-farm neighbors crank up their AC units and the line voltage drops a full 10%. My unit is set a little tighter than the power companies +/- 10% variance, so the APC does get a workout on very hot days. Supposedly most modern electronics can handle that kind of voltage drop, I'd just prefer they did not have to.
 

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I could see running an LCD projector from an UPS, to ensure the fan doesn't suddenly stop cooling that hot light bulb when the power cuts out, but I don't really see a point for keeping anything else powered by battery to enable graceful shutdown of the system.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboRay /forum/post/18296708


I could see running an LCD projector from an UPS, to ensure the fan doesn't suddenly stop cooling that hot light bulb when the power cuts out, but I don't really see a point for keeping anything else powered by battery to enable graceful shutdown of the system.

The hard drive in the WII
 
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