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Discussion Starter #1
I'm seeing this unit pop up for sale. I will only use it for the FM Tuner and add a TT (utilize the CD or Tape inputs I have a phono pre-amp). (probly add a CD player.....tbd later)
It's a 5.1 ch system pre HDMI days with 120w x 3 8ohm and a sub pre out. But I just want a cool vintage integrated amp for music only and the meters are cool as sh** too!!
This was not sold in abundance during the 90's that I can tell.

Just looking for any thoughts and/or anyone's possible experiences with this unit.





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The power amp section of the SA-TX50 featured Technics' original Enhanced Class H circuitry to release high output and space-saving dimensions. The 5-channel system provided 120 W x 3 and 100 W x 2, and also solved the distortion issue common to conventional Class H systems. Furthermore, it met the surround sound requirements for Dolby Pro Logic, which specified "using the same speakers for the left, right and center channels and driving them with the same power level." The SA-TX50 was equipped with a THX audio decoder to offer the THX sound system developed by Lucasfilm Limited for home use. The SFC (Sound Field Control) allowed the sound field to be selected from seven types, such as Hall and Live House. It also reproduced surround sound from stereo sources that were not Dolby-encoded, such as CD.
 

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I'm seeing this unit pop up for sale. I will only use it for the FM Tuner and add a TT (utilize the CD or Tape inputs I have a phono pre-amp). (probly add a CD player.....tbd later)
It's a 5.1 ch system pre HDMI days with 120w x 3 8ohm and a sub pre out. But I just want a cool vintage integrated amp for music only and the meters are cool as sh** too!!
This was not sold in abundance during the 90's that I can tell.

Just looking for any thoughts and/or anyone's possible experiences with this unit.
I don't know it, but it looks very cool. What does it usually go for?
I see it has subwoofer connection, is it a pre-out? 2.1 is something I'm interested in lately. If that's something you'd be interested in, you might wanna check if it has any sort of crossover. Most of the old AVRs I looked at had a fixed 80-90hz crossover that gets activated when you set mains to Small.

Personally not too bothered with the vintage look but it does look nice. I got a cheap decent used BD player for CD duty. It's a lot cheaper than buying a CD player. I have an old CD player but it struggled reading some CDs. Second hand CD players are tricky as you can't really be sure how much juice they have left in them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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I see a few online for $899...not sure if that is overpriced or not. Technics has a beautiful integrated amp but its $2500 so that is out of budget for what I'm trying to do.
Just looking for the coolest looking vintage amp for my TT w/tuner is a plus...I have an old 2003 Onkyo pro scan dvd player I can use for cd...:)


https://www.technics.com/us/products/grand-class/stereo-integrated-amplifier-su-g700.html
Probably not too overpriced cause it has that vintage look everyone wants today. Also the THX certificate probably makes it interesting to some. Dunno. I'm too cheap to pay that for something for it's looks :D
Like Salk speakers which are obviously great speakers, but too pretty for me. I like understated things.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I see a few online for $899...not sure if that is overpriced or not. Technics has a beautiful integrated amp but its $2500 so that is out of budget for what I'm trying to do.
Just looking for the coolest looking vintage amp for my TT w/tuner is a plus...I have an old 2003 Onkyo pro scan dvd player I can use for cd.../forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


https://www.technics.com/us/products/grand-class/stereo-integrated-amplifier-su-g700.html
Probably not too overpriced cause it has that vintage look everyone wants today. Also the THX certificate probably makes it interesting to some. Dunno. I'm too cheap to pay that for something for it's looks /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
Like Salk speakers which are obviously great speakers, but too pretty for me. I like understated things.
yes I hear ya brother...damn hobby....lol
 

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Looks like no DD only Prologic, and too much$900 for this surround guy, but if you are going to use it for stereo only and like its looks, go for it, just have to make sure got bass management for stereo (can use sub for stereo).
 

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yes I hear ya brother...damn hobby....lol
Indeed. You pay a lot for looks.

I look at functionality first. For my cheap AVR search, I've made a list of what I need it to have (sub pre-out with at least fixed bass management, remote control, size that fits the shelf, A+B, phono stage etc). Ones that did not have those would not be considered. Looks are a close second though. If it looks terrible (condition and aesthetics), it's out. All my Stereo gear is black so I want it to be black as well. Silver would only be considered if I can't find a black one that fits.
 

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Those giant power level meters look cool. I wonder what they look like at night?
 
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My only inclination would be to ask - What can you get in a new Amp for $900?

True that is a very cool looking amp, and hard to duplicate for less than two or three times the price in a new Amp, but you still have to ask the question - What can I get, or what can I get New, for $900?

This springs to mind -

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_022AS801B/Yamaha-A-S801-Black.html?tp=34948

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_022AS801S/Yamaha-A-S801-Silver.html?tp=34948

Not exactly the same, but a nice NEW Amp for $899.

I'm looking through your post, and not really seeing any Question Marks, other than asking for people' opinions, and potential experience.

My opinion - Cool looking Amp - that should work well assuming the amp is in good working order and stays in good working order.

For what little it is worth.

Steve/bluewizard
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My only inclination would be to ask - What can you get in a new Amp for $900?

True that is a very cool looking amp, and hard to duplicate for less than two or three times the price in a new Amp, but you still have to ask the question - What can I get, or what can I get New, for $900?

This springs to mind -

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_022AS801B/Yamaha-A-S801-Black.html?tp=34948

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_022AS801S/Yamaha-A-S801-Silver.html?tp=34948

Not exactly the same, but a nice NEW Amp for $899.

I'm looking through your post, and not really seeing any Question Marks, other than asking for people' opinions, and potential experience.

My opinion - Cool looking Amp - that should work well assuming the amp is in good working order and stays in good working order.

For what little it is worth.

Steve/bluewizard

I am hunting a possible vintage integrated amp and/or vintage amp + tuner for a 2 Channel set up which will include my 1979 Technics SL5310 TT. (Speakers tbd later)

I am not basing this particular unit on looks alone (although it is one sexy looking mofo...lol). It's not true a 2ch, but it seems to fit my needs pretty much. Yes, I have looked at modern amps as well (I like the Rotel and Marantz and Parasound). As well I have interest in other older units such as Marantz, Pioneer & Sansui's from the late '70.

I just happened to see this one online and since it was from the 90's I am curious as maybe some of ya'll may recall using it and if the price tag seems appropriate.
Thank you for your time


Cheers
 

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90's is vintage? I suppose it is to some degree. A lot of disposable junk from that era though that's not easily fixed.

I don't like A/V receivers in a 2.0 or 2.1 setup as that's not what they were really optimized for. Not sure how that particular one sounds (it does look pretty cool), but I know that there were other Technics amps (slightly older, late 80's or so) that were 2-channel only that has that same basic look with the huge VU's (I had one, a Technics se-a70).

Honestly, I'd look into the 1970's for receivers/amps if you want better quality that's more easily fixed and will last another 40 years.

Or, save your pennies for the newer offerings that have VU meters. The Technics SU-G700 is actually one of the cheaper ones (but it does not have that vintage sound).
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
90's is vintage? I suppose it is to some degree. A lot of disposable junk from that era though that's not easily fixed.

I don't like A/V receivers in a 2.0 or 2.1 setup as that's not what they were really optimized for. Not sure how that particular one sounds (it does look pretty cool), but I know that there were other Technics amps (slightly older, late 80's or so) that were 2-channel only that has that same basic look with the huge VU's (I had one, a Technics se-a70).

Honestly, I'd look into the 1970's for receivers/amps if you want better quality that's more easily fixed and will last another 40 years.

Or, save your pennies for the newer offerings that have VU meters. The Technics SU-G700 is actually one of the cheaper ones (but it does not have that vintage sound).

That is my full intention to go with when I decided to build a vintage system...



again just seeing if anyone has had any experience or knowledge with this particular unit...
I've seen a few Technics SE-A5's for sale as well. I'm still shopping around :) The hunt continues!



appreciate input

cheers
 

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90's is vintage? I suppose it is to some degree. A lot of disposable junk from that era though that's not easily fixed.

I don't like A/V receivers in a 2.0 or 2.1 setup as that's not what they were really optimized for.
What would be a good solution for a 2.1 then?

The new and old stereo amps I looked at with subwoofer pre-outs, didn't offer bass management with a crossover. Maybe some do. Obviously I didn't look at all of them.
 

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What would be a good solution for a 2.1 then?

The new and old stereo amps I looked at with subwoofer pre-outs, didn't offer bass management with a crossover. Maybe some do. Obviously I didn't look at all of them.

You don't need a specific subwoofer pre-out. You just need a pre-out. Then you can adjust the x-over frequency on the sub itself.

All of my late 70's Marantz silver-faced "B" receivers have a pre-out that won't defeat the main amp (this is not necessarily the case in the earlier units).

Or if you have a sub with line-level inputs, just run it off of the other speaker channels on the receiver. So mains would be "1" and sub would be "2". Then you could just choose by the push of a button/twist of a knob.
 

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You don't need a specific subwoofer pre-out. You just need a pre-out. Then you can adjust the x-over frequency on the sub itself.

All of my late 70's Marantz silver-faced "B" receivers have a pre-out that won't defeat the main amp (this is not necessarily the case in the earlier units).

Or if you have a sub with line-level inputs, just run it off of the other speaker channels on the receiver. So mains would be "1" and sub would be "2". Then you could just choose by the push of a button/twist of a knob.
But the mains will still output in full range, no? It's not a deal breaker, just seems less optimal. High level inputs I know about, but not every sub have them. Some I was looking at didn't. Then you need to start improvising with gadgets and workarounds which I don't like

Sure, I would prefer a real Stereo amp with an easy sub option, but Stereo ones cost 3-20 times the price of an outdated AVR. For the unwashed (like me), I think it would be be more cost effective to get an old AVR for $50-$100 then a real stereo for $500-$1000. I have some speakers I repurposed and instead of selling them, I'm using them for a music only setup. I want to add a small sub, but I don't want this to turn into a $1000-$1500 spending to add a sub.
 

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But the mains will still output in full range, no? It's not a deal breaker, just seems less optimal. High level inputs I know about, but not every sub have them. Some I was looking at didn't. Then you need to start improvising with gadgets and workarounds which I don't like
Yes, they will still run full range. Not sure there's anything wrong with that though. It's 2.1 Stereo music, not 20Hz LFE from a Blu-Ray movie.

I don't know what's "less optimal" about it. Bass management on a 2-channel amp that's intended for music doesn't make a lot of sense. Most of the 2-channel amps that actually have a sub out still run the mains in full range.


Sure, I would prefer a real Stereo amp with an easy sub option, but Stereo ones cost 3-20 times the price of an outdated AVR. For the unwashed (like me), I think it would be be more cost effective to get an old AVR for $50-$100 then a real stereo for $500-$1000. I have some speakers I repurposed and instead of selling them, I'm using them for a music only setup. I want to add a small sub, but I don't want this to turn into a $1000-$1500 spending to add a sub.
Because typically stereo amps are built better than an AVR. With AVR's, a lot of the money goes towards licensing/software and what's left over goes towards actual hardware. With "dumb" stereo amps, all that money goes into hardware.

And on the used market, AVR's are somewhat looked upon as "disposable" because they get outdated really quick. What good is an AVR with an outdated HDMI standard or app controlled that won't work with the newest iPhone O/S? Plus any config usually means you have to hook it to a TV screen to see what you're doing.
 

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Yes, they will still run full range. Not sure there's anything wrong with that though. It's 2.1 Stereo music, not 20Hz LFE from a Blu-Ray movie.
I don't know what's "less optimal" about it. Bass management on a 2-channel amp that's intended for music doesn't make a lot of sense. Most of the 2-channel amps that actually have a sub out still run the mains in full range.
I'm not an expert in any way, my logic is if you add a sub it makes less sense to run mains in full range even in Stereo, as you'll have the mains and the sub pushing out some overlapping frequencies. I think it can also add to some localization issues too. Again, I'm not an expert.

Because typically stereo amps are built better than an AVR. With AVR's, a lot of the money goes towards licensing/software and what's left over goes towards actual hardware. With "dumb" stereo amps, all that money goes into hardware.
And on the used market, AVR's are somewhat looked upon as "disposable" because they get outdated really quick. What good is an AVR with an outdated HDMI standard or app controlled that won't work with the newest iPhone O/S? Plus any config usually means you have to hook it to a TV screen to see what you're doing.
Exactly, that's why an AVR is a cheap way to do it but not the best way to do it. An outdated AVR would be $50-$100, a decent but not super expensive Stereo would be $300-500 and up. It boils down to how much one needs. For someone who isn't after greatness but just want something decent, an AVR is cost effective way to get there. After all, a lot of people use an AVR to play both music and video, and don't have a dedicated stereo on top, so this isn't that different.


Very good point about the screen. I'm having that exact issue right now myself. I got an old AVR to try out, and no compatible screen to get to the setup menu. As I only need to get to speaker setup to set the Large/Small setting, I'm sure I can find a way. If not, I can probably just leave it as is. I haven't actually tried yet with a sub so I may face other issues I didn't expect.
The one I got is a Denon AVR-3801 from 1999, Made in Japan (some think the Japanese made ones are better built). I've been playing normal 2.0 with it the last days and it sounds fine to me. I believe it was a midline model in it's time.
I can't easily do direct comparisons with my older Naka Stereo so maybe it's rubbish compared to it. To me it sounds fine too.
 

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The mains should ideally be bass managed in stereo amps just as it is in AVRs. The reason they often lack this is because the market buying stereo amps often think digitization is "bad" and hardly anyone makes bass redirection circuitry in the analog domain anymore. That was how it was done in the 80's but there are still a few out there:


If instead you only have full range out to the mains you are stuck in a horrible situation with say a pair of speakers good down to say 40Hz. Now in order to not overlap the bass you are forced to set the subwoofer to reproduce only frequencies below 40Hz. Yuck. Complaints over versus doing it properly, i.e. with using bass management:

- the mains don't play any louder and the woofers start to flap/distort at the same bass boost level as they did without the added sub(s)
- the mains have no reduction in bass distortion nor woofer excursion
- the main amp is just as burdened as always so it doesn't play louder either nor run at a cooler/lower distortion level
- the whole perk of being able to place the sub were it excites the bass range optimally for the room gets thrown out the window since the sub(s) are only doing a tiny sliver of the bass. Content 40 Hz and above, which is most of the bass, still is done only by the main speakers and their location is dictated by where you want your left and right edges of the sound stage, not bass optimization.
- most of the time you can't even tell you've added a sub because a huge percentage of music doesn't even go down to below 40Hz so what was the point in spending all that money on the sub(s) in the first place?
 
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AVRs [at least from better brands like Denon, and Yamaha] do not have appreciably compromised sound quality if kept below clipping. That's just a pervasive audiophile myth. What they lack is power, especially when all channels are driven simultaneously, and low impedance output capability.
 

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Why are u looking for a 90's amp anyway, to be more era-closer to your TT? are we talking about that 70-90 sound, or are we talking about 70-90 looks?

Paul McGowan of PS Audio has a YouTube video that talks about a 70's piece of gear he loved and still does, but thinks modern electronics have more clarity vs 70s were more "colored."

For old power amps, u may to have worry about old/dried capacitors.

If TT is your main source, why not a nice tube amp? something different, then you can entertain your guests with the finer points of tubes :)
 
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