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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. Yes, I'm a total nO0b, but I figured I would try to make my first post a helpful one. I did a lot of research on this site and others before diving in to making my first projection screen, and I have to thank all of you for helping me avoid a lot of pitfalls I would probably have run into had it not been for you sharing your experiences. Anyway, here's my contribution to the forum (albeit a small one).

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphot...16021/size/big



I was worried about using wood because the consensus seems to be that it's flimsy and won't hold it's shape too well over time, but I didn't trust myself working with aluminum as others on here have. So, I used 1X2 cleats to brace the screen, and one in the middle to prevent the frame from sagging. My roommate and I just finished this yesterday, and I gotta tell you, it's pretty damn sturdy. Anyway, hope this helps all of you out there. This forum has been a real treat to read and I am glad to now be a part of it.


-Austin
 

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I have a similar frame without those extra brace pieces and it very much wants to twist. I made the mistake of covering the wood pieces with velveteen before joining them so that my fabric corners would look nice. Well they do, but now that the cloth is tight, it has this structural twist problem...


If I anchor all four corners to the wall. it would work fine. However, I'd hoped to be able to suspend it from a ceiling and have it pulled up flat when not in use. Any thoughts on a bracing system that'd not be so bulky (or heavy)?
 

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If you're looking for lightweight and non-bulky, you could give heavy picture wire a try. You would have to anchor it tightly at each end, but it might provide some twist prevention for very little bulk and weight.


Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I covered mine in felt before squaring them up and didn't really have a problem. It twisted a LOT before I reinforced it and now there's little twist if any. Also, I was concerned about it losing it's square properties over time and sagging in the middle with no support. That's why I reinforced it the way I did. To be honest, it only added about 5-7 pounds to the total weight. I would say the thing weighs right at 25 pounds give or take.


To give you an idea of what you'll need and the weight, here's a parts list:


14 - 1X2X12" long pine board (3 for each corner and 2 in the middle - top and bottom)


1 - 1X2X51" long pine board (actual screen height for me is 45", so it's 52" with frame)


38 - 1.25" long screws


As you can see I think the added weight isn't the enemy here. I would say more should be concerned with the fact that you can no longer flush mount the screen. For me it didn't matter since it's hanging in my garage from the 2 door guides.
 

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With a wood frame, does it matter if you miter the corners or butt join them? Since you are covering with black fabric, it would not be a visual problem.
 

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Dick,


After building one with mitered corners, I'd say the ease of butt joints will outweigh the slight aesthetic gain of miters. While people are surprised that I built it when they see it with light on before a show (that says as much about what they think about my talents as well as how slick and pro it looks ;) ) I think that's the only time someone would notice the joints as it's not visible from the seating.
 

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I understand what you were trying to do with the diagonal bracing at the corners but the major flaw is the single screw at each end. This still allows for pivoting. A single 1x4 placed on a diagonal with 2 or 3 screws at each end will help with both racking and twisting. Of course, you'd have to cut that 1 x 4 at a 45 degree angle to keep it from sticking out, but no big deal.
 
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