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Discussion Starter #1
Hello. I have all my main “Screen Speakers and Subs” running off of 220V 60hz circuits and am wanting to get some quality power conditioners for these.

What type of conditioners are made for this type of application?

I assume I can’t just purchase units made for Europe which is ran at 50hz?

Can anyone point me in the correct direction please?

Bests
Alex


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If you need surge protection SurgeX has several different models, ranging from 10-30a, in both 120v and 240v, from best to worst:
https://www.ametekesp.com/surgex/axess-elite/axess-elite-220-240v
https://www.ametekesp.com/surgex/sequencers/sequencers-220-240v/seq-1216i-page
https://www.ametekesp.com/esp/next-gen/next-gen-120-208v

If you need regenerated-AC and blackout-prevention then something like this:
https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/ups/smart-app-online/ol3000rtxl2uhvn/

For really high loads, at some point it would probably be easier/more economical to just run a 50kW NG generator and generate your own clean power on-site.

Alternatively if you need to generate 200amps of "green" 3-phase power then you could get something like this:
https://www.inverter.com/50kw-pure-sine-wave-off-grid-solar-inverter
Not sure what the quality of it is... but they even have a 200kW model :eek:

Almost anything is "possible" I suppose... :)
 

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Hello. I have all my main “Screen Speakers and Subs” running off of 220V 60hz circuits and am wanting to get some quality power conditioners for these.

What type of conditioners are made for this type of application?

I assume I can’t just purchase units made for Europe which is ran at 50hz?

Can anyone point me in the correct direction please?

Bests
Alex


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Here is a new review of a power conditioner from Amir in ASR. Most power conditioners will likely have similar results. Bottom-line, power conditioners that claim to "clean up the power" just aren't worth their cost.

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/audioquest-powerquest-3-power-conditioner-surge-protector-review.14580/

Surge protection is another subject. Add a whole house surge protector in your service entrance panel as a first step. These whole house units protect all the electronics in your house, not just your AV system. Eaton and SquareD both make protectors that go into service entrance panels.

Add local surge protection to expensive and sensitive AV equipment. The higher-end SurgeX units are the best since they offer series mode protection. Buy used on EBay.

This subject has been covered hundreds of times on this forum. Do some searches.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here is a new review of a power conditioner from Amir in ASR. Most power conditioners will likely have similar results. Bottom-line, power conditioners that claim to "clean up the power" just aren't worth their cost.



https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/audioquest-powerquest-3-power-conditioner-surge-protector-review.14580/



Surge protection is another subject. Add a whole house surge protector in your service entrance panel as a first step. These whole house units protect all the electronics in your house, not just your AV system. Eaton and SquareD both make protectors that go into service entrance panels.



Add local surge protection to expensive and sensitive AV equipment. The higher-end SurgeX units are the best since they offer series mode protection. Buy used on EBay.



This subject has been covered hundreds of times on this forum. Do some searches.


Oh trust me I’ve searched and searched. Most of these devices like the one from AudioQuest that are marketed are not labeled as being 220V “60hz” capable. Most are either 120V 60hz or 220V 50hz. There are a few that are 50hz-60hz capable but not nearly as many.

Furman and PS Audio both have 50-60hz models but they are like $3000-$4000 once get up to the requirements of just one of my sub amps.

Maybe I should be seriously considering an EquiTech whole home 200amp panel clean power unit like in Rob Hahn and TheBland’s builds. Those are around $15,000 but cover everything. Heck I would need multiple of the 20-30amp units in both 110V and 220V so would reach that $15,000 with 4-5 “CHEAPER” units anyway. Might as well get a quality product built for industrial use at the start that will handle everything.

But that’s why I posted here. Maybe I have overlooked some cheaper options that actually do work with 220V at 20-30amps continuous.

Bests
Alex


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Discussion Starter #6
If you need surge protection SurgeX has several different models, ranging from 10-30a, in both 120v and 240v, from best to worst:

https://www.ametekesp.com/surgex/axess-elite/axess-elite-220-240v

https://www.ametekesp.com/surgex/sequencers/sequencers-220-240v/seq-1216i-page

https://www.ametekesp.com/esp/next-gen/next-gen-120-208v



If you need regenerated-AC and blackout-prevention then something like this:

https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/ups/smart-app-online/ol3000rtxl2uhvn/



For really high loads, at some point it would probably be easier/more economical to just run a 50kW NG generator and generate your own clean power on-site.



Alternatively if you need to generate 200amps of "green" 3-phase power then you could get something like this:

https://www.inverter.com/50kw-pure-sine-wave-off-grid-solar-inverter

Not sure what the quality of it is... but they even have a 200kW model :eek:



Almost anything is "possible" I suppose... :)


That’s the problem. I don’t know what I need lol. I know there are snake oil products but I also know that there are many issues with today’s thought that there aren’t artifacts that need to be removed from the signal, both within the .1hz-40khz FR and BEYOND.

I have a whole home simple surge protector at my second 200amp sub panel that is before all my HT stuff, both 110V and 220V. But that isn’t saying much. Placing a $250 surge unit before $100,000+ worth of equipment and saying that’s good enough is falling well short in your opinion as well as mine.

I’m fairly ignorant to electrical in general other than my two courses of the NEC that took in college back 15 years ago and some random basic electric classes. So I can’t say if I need multiple great surge protection units, multiple power regeneration/surge/filter/etc..., or if would be better off going with a whole home unit connected to four 200’ deep copper lined holes filled with special dielectrics like Rob Hahn and TheBland have installed. This unit here- https://www.equitech.com/productsold/wall-cabinet-systems/

Being that I need separate devices per circuit a panel system seems like the better option especially when adding up how many dedicated circuits would be needed. But, then whose to say that is enough and won’t need to add power conditioners that will provide exactly the correct voltage to each amplifier after the fact. I doubt the latter but my limited knowledge doesn’t provide a valid opinion.

I do believe that any device will behave at its most optimal levels when its operating at a steady voltage without fluctuations regardless of how well built it is.

I see the $2500 units similar to the cyberpowersystems unit you listed being a sound option but they add up quickly when talking 4-5 units. That’s getting really close to a 100-200amp panel from Equi tech.

I assume that cyber power model is the best unit you have found for the money? So figure ~$2500 per 16amps of 220/240 and very similar per 20-30amps of 110/115?

I would ask what you are running but even I can’t get that over the top ;-); although, I’m beginning to think EMP protection might be a good idea in today’s world affairs like for real. A carriington event is not out of the question at all with the approaching solar minimum either but I’ll just hope it hits somewhere far away lol. Not the correct mind frame I know but no way can I rip out all my wiring- maybe some of it but not all.

Bests options on a per circuit bases to proceed? I wish they made units with fewer outlets that were dedicated to just one piece of equipment being that us crazies use dedicated circuits for the appropriate amperage/power in the first place.

Bests
Alex


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Discussion Starter #7
I'm no expert on this, but what sort of conditioning do you seek?



Surge suppression

Noise rejection

Voltage regulation

UPS



There are inexpensive voltage regulators available. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-LR2000-Conditioner-2000W/dp/B00007FHDI


I’m not really sure being that I want constant voltage without fluctuations but also don’t need multiple outlets being that I have dedicated circuits for each amplifier pretty much. There are some smaller amplifiers that share 20amp 110V circuits but mainly speaking about 220V 60hz here and those amplifiers.

I use 220V here in the states for all the subs and screen speakers but they are even split on their own 20Amp 220V circuits being that they can draw that much power so to me at this time all I’m seeing as options are $2500+ units from a few different companies that provide steady power, supposedly filtered, and protections with multiple outlets that will never get used.

If that is my only option then I need to weigh those against a 100-200amp cabinet style unit like Equi tech produces is my guess but if there are other options I would like to know what they are.

Hope that explains my situation a little better.

Bests
Alex


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I would ask what you are running but even I can’t get that over the top ;-); although, I’m beginning to think EMP protection might be a good idea in today’s world affairs like for real. A carriington event is not out of the question at all with the approaching solar minimum either but I’ll just hope it hits somewhere far away lol. Not the correct mind frame I know but no way can I rip out all my wiring- maybe some of it but not all.
Ok, I think we can categorize this into multiple categories for ease of digestion:

1) Lightning:
There is no (practical) way to protect against this if the strike occurs near/on your property.
I mean we are talking upwards of millions of volts & millions of amps.
The only way would probably be an underground, grounded, whole-house generator (basically: getting off the grid.) i.e. NORAD

2) Surges/Spikes
This is what the SurgeX is designed to handle and does it well.

Example: APC AV15 vs SurgeX
(Hint: the APC blows up, and the SurgeX didn't even notice and cleaned it.)

Rated for 1000 strikes at 6000 volts and unlimited amps. Certified by UL/CSA and the Federal government for official-use. (SurgeX is legit stuff.)

For this reason, I have 7 SurgeX's in my house protecting my security system, fridges, network equipment, and AV equipment.

3) Power conditioning/RFI:
Generally speaking this is totally unnecessary and unneeded, especially if you live in a 1st world country (and you do.)

Every piece of electronics today (and especially high-quality AV gear) already rectify this to DC, and can handle the +-15% variance and related UL-passing certification.
Power "conditioners" are mostly snake oil. Yes they clean the power, but the power doesn't "need" to be cleaned. (Except for maybe an medical MRI machine, which has it's own filters regardless.)
You aren't doing open-heart surgery or keeping Google.com at 100% uptime. All you need is to protect your dollar investment. (Buy house insurance, with covered terms of theft/flooding/fire/etc.)

Now if you lived in Singapore or some place with known nasty-power, then maybe conditioning with a UPS would be beneficial here.

Chances are, if you don't live under a microwave tower, then you probably don't have any significant amount of RFI that you already didn't have all these years going into your equipment.

4) Blackouts/Brownouts:
The power is out.
To get it back on you'll need either: a generator or a solar system, or a short-duration UPS. Either line-interactive (cheaper), or Online (regenerative).

UPS's for low current loads, and whole-house generators for large current loads.

5)Carrington Solar Flare
A large swath of the grid will be down, possibly the whole planet, movies/music will quickly be the "least" of your worries vs food/water/sewage/gasoline pumps/NG pumps/electricity.

The SurgeX's with OV protection "should" offer some-level of protection against this. (The AX/AV/SX/SEQ/EV/NX/QC models.)
Quality UPS's "might" offer some-level of limited protection here as well.
Both certainly better than direct-wallsocket.

Some solar and generators will be fried, but most should be ok. I'd be more worried about your appliances prior to the switch-over, that's the real kicker... the standby juice will be on but the appliances might already be toast.

The scariest thing is, a Carrington event is only a mater of when, not if.
Maybe in our lifetime, and maybe not.
A lot of people will have a lot of e-waste post event, and electronic repair-services overwhelmed, appliances sold-out like toilet paper. ;)

6) EMP
Nothing stops this (short of a full-blown NORAD-grade faraday cage.)
Imagine a solar flare, but worse...
It travels through the air itself, it travels through the vacuum of space!
It fries electronics on BOTH sides of your whole-house surge suppressor, and point-of-use protectors.
It DIRECTLY zaps the devices, even if powered off/unplugged, upstream and downstream protection is mostly-useless.
It's the most devastating thing imaginable (by design/intentionally.)

How does NORAD resolve it?
An entire cave made of 1/4" steel, weld on all 6 sides, with diesel generators inside that shell, and a million gallons of fuel, enough to run 10 megawatts for multiple weeks. Fiber optic and replaceable wireless/sat antennas for comms.
Nothing us mere mortals can afford.

The best a civilian could do is a metal barn, or placing aluminium foil under your drywall, or EMF paint / combinations thereof.
But door seals, windows and ductwork will give you great hurdles to overcome. Possibly rendering it pointless if done improperly, sort of like soundproofing but different.
Large faraday cages can get expensive really quickly, small ones are cheap but limited by the small amount of protected space they offer.

If a cellphone and radio still works inside it, then it's definitely-not a properly sealed up faraday cage, at the very least.

In Summary:
The best/cleanest/most-reliable power... is off-grid power (i.e. solar and generators).
It puts the power in YOUR hands, you aren't relying on others to provide this juice.
 

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Just keep in mind that balanced 120v power is against electrical code for residential spaces (because it is an electrocution hazard.)

Also keep in mind that in America and Canada 240volts is already balanced power (i.e. split-phase).

In terms of groundloop hums, it is better to have multiple point-of-use isolation-transformers because then you are then taking advantage of leakage reduction, which you don't get by having everything sharing a larger iso transformer, EquiTech and the like.

In the event of a large solar flare, I'm not certain that isolation transformers will save you.
Isolation transformers are designed to be always-on, any large change in voltage of the primary will be copied over to the secondary until the primary wire burns out or the non-60hz magnetic field is stabilized, this is true all the way down to and including DC.

If for any reason the 240v AC grid starts fluctuating, up to say 500v for even a brief moment, the isolation transformer won't save you. Since it is 1:1, the same high-voltage will be on the secondary.

All pole transformers are already galvanically isolating, the primary and secondary are coupled only by their magnetic fields.
The same goes for all Class-A, A/B and H transformer-based amplifiers, that feature already exist in those products.

SMPS/Class-D on the other hand has no such isolation, they are directly grid attached and thus are the most vulnerable power supplies, those would benefit from being on a point-of-use isolation transformer to some unknown degree.
That said, many are universal power supplies and can already handle fairly large swings of voltage.

Just about all sound processors, DAC's, player and amplifiers have some-level of 170v rms or 300v rms MOV's baked-in, so most of them can tolerate small-scale surges and HF line noise.

Just about no products are designed for voltages well-outside it's operating range (it would increase costs/eat profits too much), that's the job of the dedicated surge-protector I suppose.
 

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That said, there was another AVS user about 6 months ago that mentioned that he had a lightning strike in his backyard. He was using a whole-house surge protector, 15a breakers, and various additional Belkin/APC/Monster surge protectors, and he said the lightning fried all of them, including the protected-side.

He had hung some flood lamps on some trees in his backyard, the lightning ran up the romex into his service panel, if I recall correctly.

Lightning pretty much does whatever it wants...even traveling through 2x4's, wood trees and air! (Not a conductor at 240v, but at a million volts everything conducts!)
 

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That said, there was another AVS user about 6 months ago that mentioned that he had a lightning strike in his backyard. He was using a whole-house surge protector, 15a breakers, and various additional Belkin/APC/Monster surge protectors, and he said the lightning fried all of them, including the protected-side.

He had hung some flood lamps on some trees in his backyard, the lightning ran up the romex into his service panel, if I recall correctly.

Lightning pretty much does whatever it wants...even traveling through 2x4's, wood trees and air! (Not a conductor at 240v, but at a million volts everything conducts!)
I don't care what you had in place in that event ( flood lamps in trees was opening the door to catastrophe) lightning is just primordial ! Funny you mention what it does to tress wood etc.. I have 2 large oaks in the front yard around 25yrs old at the time when a strike hit the bigger of the two and split the bark from the middle of the base down to the ground trowing bark 20+ft:eek: Lucky only thing took damage was my PC's mother board and graphics card but my Monster power center from back in the day saved my gear but lost its protection ability. I've since moved over to PS audio but the replacement monster still resides in the bedroom system.

Something will always be better than nothing in the end and just hope it never happens;)
 

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..............Lightning pretty much does whatever it wants...even traveling through 2x4's, wood trees and air! (Not a conductor at 240v, but at a million volts everything conducts!)
Amen, When Lightning strikes.........Lightning wins.


..................Something will always be better than nothing in the end and just hope it never happens;)
Yep, And a little luck never hurts when it does.
 

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Hello. I have all my main “Screen Speakers and Subs” running off of 220V 60hz circuits and am wanting to get some quality power conditioners for these.

What type of conditioners are made for this type of application?

I assume I can’t just purchase units made for Europe which is ran at 50hz?

Can anyone point me in the correct direction please?

Bests
Alex


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Hey there,

I'm going to cut straight to the point:

The ONLY and BEST power conditioning solution on the market is NOT something that will plug into any outlets, or give you any specific, single, point of use conditioning. All these suggestions about devices you use after an outlet and before your AV Components are ultimately useless. I have spent several years researching and experimenting with regards to power conditioning. At the end of the day there's only ONE product that yields a wholly effective solution:

Eaton Power Sure 800
https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/catalog/power-conditioners/power-sure-800.html

Anything less and you're paying money for nothing.

Long story short: Eaton produces the highest quality electrical components on Earth.
Eaton produces a full power/whole house/whole circuit panel solution to your problem. That product is the Power Sure 800 series. It is an isolation transformer/power conditioner with voltage sag ride through, liquid capacitors, true sine wave output, surge protection, etc, etc. It comes in any configuration that's needed, IE: Amperage/Voltage/Hz.

You might as well just use it for your whole house, or a theater specific sub panel and be done.
 
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I also have an Eaton UPS which I use for my mixing console when I'm on tour as FOH engineer. It has an integrated surge protection for the C13 outlets and a RJ45 surge protection. It prevents the desk from shutting down from voltage sag (dirty power isn't uncommon when you have like 100KW of lights in the roof of the stage) and keeps the console running for 30 minutes off the grid. I like it a lot. Haven't looked at the output with a scope yet, but I guess it's a nice sine wave and not a stepped wave like some of the no-name units deliver. Eaton produces all kinds of equipment and is often what you'll find in industrial installations, aka where it really matters.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey there,



I'm going to cut straight to the point:



The ONLY and BEST power conditioning solution on the market is NOT something that will plug into any outlets, or give you any specific, single, point of use conditioning. All these suggestions about devices you use after an outlet and before your AV Components are ultimately useless. I have spent several years researching and experimenting with regards to power conditioning. At the end of the day there's only ONE product that yields a wholly effective solution:



Eaton Power Sure 800

https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/catalog/power-conditioners/power-sure-800.html



Anything less and you're paying money for nothing.



Long story short: Eaton produces the highest quality electrical components on Earth.

Eaton produces a full power/whole house/whole circuit panel solution to your problem. That product is the Power Sure 800 series. It is an isolation transformer/power conditioner with voltage sag ride through, liquid capacitors, true sine wave output, surge protection, etc, etc. It comes in any configuration that's needed, IE: Amperage/Voltage/Hz.



You might as well just use it for your whole house, or a theater specific sub panel and be done.


Looks like the EquiTech unit I have linked above has more tech than this unit. Not saying the Eaton won’t help but just by glancing at the two it seems like the EquiTech is far superior, no?


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Discussion Starter #17
Hey there,



I'm going to cut straight to the point:



The ONLY and BEST power conditioning solution on the market is NOT something that will plug into any outlets, or give you any specific, single, point of use conditioning. All these suggestions about devices you use after an outlet and before your AV Components are ultimately useless. I have spent several years researching and experimenting with regards to power conditioning. At the end of the day there's only ONE product that yields a wholly effective solution:



Eaton Power Sure 800

https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/catalog/power-conditioners/power-sure-800.html



Anything less and you're paying money for nothing.



Long story short: Eaton produces the highest quality electrical components on Earth.

Eaton produces a full power/whole house/whole circuit panel solution to your problem. That product is the Power Sure 800 series. It is an isolation transformer/power conditioner with voltage sag ride through, liquid capacitors, true sine wave output, surge protection, etc, etc. It comes in any configuration that's needed, IE: Amperage/Voltage/Hz.



You might as well just use it for your whole house, or a theater specific sub panel and be done.


The EquiTech unit seems like it is capable of handling far more high power hungry circuits than this, right? I’m not all that savvy when it comes to electrical so always ask people in the know before I do anything.

The way I understand the EquiTech is that it can basically handle up to its stated amperage so say 100 amps worth of circuits whereas this particular Eaton only has minimal current capacity, right?


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Looks like the EquiTech unit I have linked above has more tech than this unit. Not saying the Eaton won’t help but just by glancing at the two it seems like the EquiTech is far superior, no?
The EquiTech unit is surprisingly nice, a creative solution, and is very similar.. but at first glance the Eaton PowerSure 800 series would still be king. Both are intended to do the same job, though in slightly different configurations. Honestly, I'm sure both would do one hell of a job. You'll pay between $1K-$10K for an Eaton solution, not sure about the EQT.

Here's the key differences I spot;

The EquiTech unit doesn't look to have any capacitors or SRT (Sag Ride Through) ability. This means that it can only output X amount, depending on the input power. It will maintain voltage, at the expense of amperage. Ultimately the Eaton will do the same, with one catch. The Eaton, because it has a bank of capacitors, has SRT. Sag Ride Through means that it can experience a total loss of power for a moment and still provide 100% rated Amperage and Voltage for that moment. It also means that it does not typically sacrifice Amperage to keep Voltage steady. It uses the capacitors to buffer, and will only sacrifice Amperage if that buffer runs out.

The Eaton has solid copper everything, with silver coatings here and there. This is the best conductivity out there. Not sure if the EQT unit has solid copper windings and connections, with any amount of silver coatings on end connections/etc, but it's worth knowing that the Eaton does.

Weight wise the Eatons are far heavier, and I'm sure that's because their magnets and windings are bigger. The magnet in my Eaton is 550lbs alone. For comparison an Eaton unit having the same output as an EQT unit outweighs the EQT by 437lbs to 385lbs. This might not seem like a big difference, but the Eaton is just the conditioner/transformer. The EQT unit is the entire breaker panel and everything else as well. The weight of the magnet alone is probably along the lines of Eaton - 400lbs.. EQT 290lbs. Eaton builds their boxes to accept a wide array of wiring configs, which definitely accounts for more weight too, while EQT simply posts this disclaimer at the bottom of their page.. "Though not recommended due to higher transformer costs and a much larger feeder from the house panel, Wall Cabinet Systems may be custom ordered with a 1:1 voltage ratio". Personally, I'd prefer a 1:1 solution. But, to each their own. Pros and cons to both ways.

The EquiTech "wall cabinet" solution is definitely a more instant/integrated solution.. as in it's a nice all-in-one isolation transformer/conditioner+circuit breaker panel. The fact that you just throw it up as a replacement breaker panel or sub-panel is attractive, and simple.

The Eaton Power Sure 800 comes in a variety of configurations, but basically the best configuration for a Home Theater setup would have an Eaton PS800 installed *after* your main electric service panel (With a meter in it) and before whichever sub panel goes to your home theater. You would choose your own specific panels to run for the meter panel before, and circuit breaker theater panel after... with the Eaton being a large, steel box mounted somewhere in-between and out of sight to do its work (Like in the corner of a garage). The pro to this is that you get to choose a high quality panel on each end of the system, ensuring total power delivery system quality. IE: You could use an Eaton CH panel at the beginning and end, a product offering solid copper connections with silver plating. You won't find that in any other panels (Typically other panels will use solid aluminum.. a far inferior product).

The Eaton having to be remotely located (to whichever degree you prefer) is more attractive to me because it's a safer solution. I know the science is all debatable right now concerning EM radiation, etc, but personally I would never want a large EM and transformer sitting behind my couch in my theater wall. I'd much rather have any potential health hazard further away, tucked into a garage corner or shed.
https://doctor.ndtv.com/faq/does-a-transformer-emit-any-harmful-radiations-6811

The EquiTech unit seems like it is capable of handling far more high power hungry circuits than this, right? I’m not all that savvy when it comes to electrical so always ask people in the know before I do anything.


The way I understand the EquiTech is that it can basically handle up to its stated amperage so say 100 amps worth of circuits whereas this particular Eaton only has minimal current capacity, right?
No, there's no real difference between them and what each can output. They can both pretty much handle any combination of input and output power. It's a little confusing because the EQT products comes with a circuit breaker panel already attached (With X amount of 20 amp circuits) whereas the Eaton doesn't because with the Eaton you purchase a separate panel to go after it (IE.. A 24 space 100 amp panel, 42 space 200 amp panel, etc) sized for that application. They'll both have the exact same amount of high current power available for your use at the end of the day, in similar configurations. Each one is basically custom built for whatever application you're using it for. So both the Eaton and EQT can supply 100 amps or more, or less to a theater.
 

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Here's an example of what the Eaton units are like, if purchased in this format. This is an 8KVA model that I have. The magnet assembly is probably 24" tall, and just as big a round. The steel transformer case itself is probably 30x30".

DSC04232.jpg

DSC04228.jpg
 

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Hello. I have all my main “Screen Speakers and Subs” running off of 220V 60hz circuits and am wanting to get some quality power conditioners for these.

What type of conditioners are made for this type of application?

I assume I can’t just purchase units made for Europe which is ran at 50hz?

Can anyone point me in the correct direction please?

Bests
Alex


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
For the best in surge suppression and noise reduction, check out Shunyata. They provide real specifications. I have recently ordered one.

https://shunyata.com/view-power-distributors/

For others feedback: https://www.audioshark.org/shunyata-research-78/

If you post your specific question at the above forum, you will likely get a response from Caelin who is the president and lead designer for Shunyata.

Good luck in your search!
 
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