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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm thinking about doing some power conditioning for my CRT projector.


I'm considering a PS Audio Power Port as the power outlet and a PS Audio Ultimate Outlet as the conditioner.


Any experience with these products? Alternative recommendations?


Also, any recommendations as to the type of power cables to use between the Power Port and the Ultimate Outlet and between the Ultimate Outlet and the Projector?


Thanks for your advice.


Wayne
 

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Wanye, you'll get two camps here, those that believe in power conditioning and those of us that don't. I'm in the 'don't, it's a waste of money' camp..:)


Do a search here on the forum, you'll see a couple of flame wars that have happened this year that are interesting to read as both sides bring up some valid points (including some funny flames!)


Curt
 

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I think some of the best advice is to keep any cables as short as possible. There is just not a lot of "conditioning" you can do to a switched mode power supply. I DO however use an APC 2000watt uninterruptable power supply that ALL the video gear is plugged into. I find this to be the best real protection for the money. Also kind of cool when there is a blackout and you can finish your movie :)


Yeah... read the forum... there were some interesting ideas out there.


Marc
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Bryan, Curt, and Tinman.


I did do a search before I posted this question and I didn't come up with anything. I guess I'll need to get a bit more creative with my key words to find those threads that you mentioned.


Curt: I appreciate your position on this. I'm not in either camp yet. But I do plan to get the PS Audio "Ultimate Outlet," and when I do, I'll give an honest report. If I don't notice anything, I'm sure I can find a home for it in my audio system.


Thanks again guys.


Wayne
 

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I use a PS Audio P600 Power Plant to power my NEC XG135LC projector and all of my source equipment. The projector is too expensive of a piece of equipment to be fried by brownouts or surges and the like. All I get out of the Power Plant is perfectly clean regulated AC, which to me is worth it. Curt would be in the "it's a waste of money camp" because he is a guy who has thousands of spare CRT parts on hand and services projectors on a daily bases, I however, do not and care to spend my time watching movies and not fixing projectors...In the end, it is up to you.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Bradad
I ...... Curt would be in the "it's a waste of money camp" because he is a guy who has thousands of spare CRT parts on hand and services projectors on a daily bases, I however, do not and care to spend my time watching movies and not fixing projectors...In the end, it is up to you.
Curt is in the "it's a waste of money camp" because he's a highly skilled component level technician, who knows and understand the theory and technology behind a high performance switch mode power supply. Therefore the use of such device is a total waste of money, because the switch mode power supply in the projector does exactly what the PS Audio unit claims.
 

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Bingo!


Marc
 

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Well thanks for pointing that out to me, and thanks for making me feel like an idiot too. :(
 

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Hey, I feel like an IDIOT, too, for using two P600s in my system, including with my projector. With a 25' Granite Audio home theater power cord to my projector!!! But it sure looks good!!!!


Brandon, don't let them get to you!!! If you're an IDIOT like me I say you're in good company with a good picture!!!:D :D :D
 

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Well to be serious, what protects the power supply from an over or under voltage situation or from spikes and surges? Are you saying these power supplies have built in protection from that? I know someone who was selling an eleven(!) hour NEC XG110 a couple of weeks ago who went to do a setup to make sure everything worked fine and had a "spike" that took out the power supply! Brand new projector, hardly used with a burnt power supply all because of a line spike....How much are new NEC power supplies worth anyways? 5, 6k?


One other thing, I recall reading a post by another "tech" that posts here regularly that stated brownouts are one of the worst things that could happen to a projector.


You guys want to comment on this?
 

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You can get a spike/surge protector cheap that will do [email protected][email protected] You get a P600 if you subjectively find that its clean AC gives you better picture and sound. I find that in my system!!!


Also keep in mind price vs performance. You need to factor in extra bucks spent on accessories vs that extra money on a better projector = better picture. Me, first, I do often get reviewer pricing, and that helps some. MOst important, I like my Dwin HD-700 as its quiet and relatively small and easy to stay in calibration/adjustment, and with my tweaks and keeping the room dark and picture only 80" wide, with tweaks and color filtered lens, my picture is spectacular!!! But even if you believe in some of these tweaks, its still a money issue, too, as I said, as tweaks vs better component in the first place.


Note the Granite Audio power cord is a real winner. The 25' home theater cord is super bargain priced, and toroids each end filter out high frequency noise, which I find improves the contrast of my picture nicely. If you're interested in more info, as I often know where to get good deals, you can private message or e-mail me.


But remember, for most folks on a budget, heck, buy a refurbished projector from Curt, or someone like him, forgo the tweaks, and you still have a liveable picture you can afford.
 

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Thanks Mr. Parker!


ROTLFMAO!


I'm not going to to rehash some of the old arguements here, but I would offer this (and my math could be off)


1) Electrons travel the speed of light, 187,000 miles per second if I remember correctly.


2) Therefore, so do power spikes.


3) Most projectors and other electronic power cords have a 6' cord, assuming that you're coming straight out of a surge protector to the projector.


4) I believe a number of power protectors have a response time of 5 or 6 nanoseconds. I therefore also believe that in order for the surge protector to 'catch' these surges/spikes, they have to have an equivalent 22' of wire within the surge protector to drop out these surges. In addition, you'd have to have a 'sensing' unit at the 'front' of the AC input, and then the clamping circuit at the 'back' of the protector, with that 22 feet of wire inbetween.


If not, then I would think that the surge will go right through the protector before it even reacts.


Comments from the guys with the scientific calculators?..:)


Curt
 

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I use a 1:1 line isolation transformer for the whole system. And as stated above, an APC uninterruptable power supply. That takes care of the brownouts as well as severe overvoltage. A well designed switched mode powersupply can tolerate from 80volts to 160 without damage. The Transformer and UPS were both surplus at a total cost of $100. Since the price was right, I figure it can't hurt. However, any of the power conditioners that just use a coil, some caps, and some MOV's, are in my opinion a joke. They do NOT protect against brownouts or overvoltage. Also, the same filtering is already built into a "good" SMPS in the first place.

Ferrite beads can be fitted to an ordinary power cord. While I do not disagree with the concept of power conditioning, I strongly disagree that it has to cost a fortune. But I'm not here to argue. I use conditioning as a precaution, but sensibly priced.


Marc
 

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And Marc, you state your info and opinions tactfully, so that those of us who use more expensive AC conditioning/regeneration can read your post without feeling like IDIOTS. Thank you. And its good solid info on inexpensive protection - and some projectors, without power outage, may get memory values screwed up so this can help here, too, in those cases

(my Dwin doesn't seem to have that concern).
 

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Sure would like to know how that "high frequency noise" gets converted to DC in the switching power supply. I think I'll get my scope out and hunt down some ripple. Maybe if I drinks some ripple I'll find it.


The one thing I've noticed about HT gear and power sources is the best possible hookup is to use a 20 amp dedicated circuit to a UPS/Line conditioner for all gear, including the projector. An on-line UPS or a smart UPS is the best in that you are always getting AC from the UPS. This provides the ultimate in protection from sags and spikes. That is all a good line condition can do for equipment that uses switching power supplies. This approach also assures no ground loops.


The only thing left that can affect the quality of the picture or sound is the quality of the stuff you have plugged in.


... taking safety pin out of fire extinguisher
 

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Genmax, glad you know everything. I find that I have to demo stuff and use my eyes and ears to figure it out - so I guess you are way ahead of me cause you know it all up front. I wish I was so lucky. :D :D :D


I also have many dedicated 20 amp circuits in my home theater room, using PS Audio Power Ports both at wall outlets and in my two PS Audio P600s. The P600 I use for my projector also has plugged in my Dwin Transcanner 2 video scaler/switcher and an Extron S-Video switcher.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Steve Bruzonsky
You can get a spike/surge protector cheap that will do [email protected][email protected] You get a P600 if you subjectively find that its clean AC gives you better picture and sound. I find that in my system!!!
Yes Steve, I did find this. I originally had a P300 and found the results to using one with my front end equipment very positive. This is why I bought the P600 to use with my projector and gear. Also, the fact that my equipment receives perfectly cleaned and regulated power is alone enough for me to justify the purchase, besides the differences that it does make.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Steve Bruzonsky
Genmax, glad you know everything. I find that I have to demo stuff and use my eyes and ears to figure it out - so I guess you are way ahead of me cause you know it all up front. I wish I was so lucky. :D :D :D


I also have many dedicated 20 amp circuits in my home theater room, using PS Audio Power Ports both at wall outlets and in my two PS Audio P600s. The P600 I use for my projector also has plugged in my Dwin Transcanner 2 video scaler/switcher and an Extron S-Video switcher.


Well I did say "Noticed" ...
 

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I recently calibrated a Madrigal MP-9 9" CRT projector fed by a Faroudja DVP-5000. The owner had a dedicated 15 amp curcut installed from the breaker box directly to the projector using 10 gage romex. His electrician installed a PS Audio Power Port at the projector feeding a PS Audio Ultimate Outlet high current version. The standard IEC power cords were used. While doing the calibration I use the detail of the video noise in the picture to help in calibrating the focus. In this case the amount of video noise was noticeably lower than normal so much so that I mentioned this to the dealer. This video noise is can be seen as very small sparkles and small movement on vertical lines. I am not sure this noise could be seen from the seating position but I do like to remove any problems in the signal chain that I can. I did not remove the Ultimate Outlet and check the noise level without it. I cannot say the PS Audio parts were directly responsible for the low noise level I saw but on the other hand I do believe in using spec. grade outlets and plugs. The Ultimate Outlet is not expensive and your dealer may let you use one to check it's effectiveness.
 
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