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Has anyone mounted a Prismasonic CB100 projector mount to a Panasonic ae1000u? I'm having a heck of a time getting it to mount correctly and at 3 positions. If anyone had a picture or anything of how they did theirs, I would be most appreciative!


Wap
 

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Did you ever figure this out? I am considering purchasing this mount for my PT-AX100U/H-400M combo. If you didn't get an answer yet maybe this bump will help find one. If you did, well, has anyone used it with a PT-AX100U?


If not, does anyone have any good suggestions for ceiling mounting a PT-AX100U + Prismasonic H-400M lens? We have the Wii on our wish list this year but will need the projector ceiling mounted so we have room to stand up when using the Wii.


Thanks!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by waptap /forum/post/0


Has anyone mounted a Prismasonic CB100 projector mount to a Panasonic ae1000u? I'm having a heck of a time getting it to mount correctly and at 3 positions. If anyone had a picture or anything of how they did theirs, I would be most appreciative!


Wap

Hi,


You can use the long extension arm directly to connect both the projector body and the ceiling plate instead of the short arm. Doing so you can get rid of at least one short arm and thus get the needed space for the long arm.


Please look at example 2:

http://www.prismasonic.com/english/bracket.shtml
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang5o /forum/post/0


Did you ever figure this out? I am considering purchasing this mount for my PT-AX100U/H-400M combo. If you didn't get an answer yet maybe this bump will help find one. If you did, well, has anyone used it with a PT-AX100U?


If not, does anyone have any good suggestions for ceiling mounting a PT-AX100U + Prismasonic H-400M lens? We have the Wii on our wish list this year but will need the projector ceiling mounted so we have room to stand up when using the Wii.


Thanks!


Hi,


AX100 can also be mounted with CB-100. So far we have not faced any projector, which is NOT compatible with the bracket
 

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Here is my Panny 100, FE-1500 and Prismasonic mount...




and




HTH,

James
 

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Hello James,


Thanks for the images


Your mounting looks a bit personal to me. However, everything is fine if it works.

I would have set the other long bar from across the mount body to the center screw thread of projector body, thus replacing the pair of short arms. Doing so you would not have to stack the long bar and short bar as seen in the second picture of your reply.


Also if the short bar is extended it is good to use spacer under the extension rod.

(example 1) http://www.prismasonic.com/english/bracket.shtml
 

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Daniel,


Depends upon the mount and projector of course but here is how I connected my ISCO II with a Chief mount on the RS1.


Basically it is a 1/2" thick piece of oak cut to the width between the outer bolts that face up front the projector plate with two small holes for the inner bolts. On one of the inner bolts there is a recess for a nut to hold the oak/lens in place when the projector is removed from the mount.


Only thing that needs to be changed on the Chief projector plate is to put longer bolts on the plate to account for the width of the oak between the projector and the mount.


Cheap and easy.


Shawn

 

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Daniel,


The Chief mount is effectively two pices. It has the part which either mounts directly to the ceiling or is hung from a pole (call it part A) and it has the plate which is attached to the projector (part B).


The 1/2" thick piece of oak fits between part A and part B.


On the plate (part B) that is attached to the projector there are 6 bolts with thumb nuts which fit into Part A to hold the projector up. That is where the quick release comes from on the RPA mount. Those 6 bolts are replaced with ones slightly longer, they just unscrew from the part b and new bolts can be screwed in. The oak is cut such that its width fits between the outer four bolts in part B. With a tight fit there those four bolts keep the oak from moving horizontally.


You need to drill two holes in the oak for the inner two bolts of part B. If you left it like this when you install/remove the projector/part B from part A the oak/lens could flop around as nothing at that point is holding the oak from moving vertically. This is why I drilled a small recess into the top of the oak on one of the two inner holes to allow you to fit a nut down over either inner bolt to hold the oak in place without interfering with the fit of part a/oak/b together.. it needs to be flush.


After you have that you cut down the length of the oak board to whatever is appropriate for your lens/projector and then mount the lens to the oak itself. In my case I drilled a hole in the base plate of the ISCO II and drilled another hole in the oak and held the lens in place with bolt/rubber washers/washers/t-nut. By loosening that bolt the lens can be rotated as needed then tightened down to keep it from moving. The lenses vertical height and tilt is accomplished using the ISCO mount itself.


Because of the way the oak is sandwiched between part a and part b adjustments to the Chief mount (roll,yaw,pitch) are also applied to the lens as well.


Shawn
 

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gotcha, what was throwing me on the picture was the base of the Isco . I didnt realize that the base was on top of the wood. When I looked at the picture, it looked like a piece of wood on the projector and then some type of other material connected to the wood.


Now it all makes sense. That is great. I will make one of those
 
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