[danjros]

OK, So i have the Panny 300 projected on a 101'' balckout screen painted with behr ultra white. Now I love the picture, but when there is a seen that is bright and also has some dark objects, the dark objects are extremely washed out....what I realized was that since all the walls are white they reflect a lot of light back onto the screen. Anyone know of a very cheap material that could be put on the walls to absorb light and not look like complete ****??


I know this is not exactly a screen question but I thought someone in this section may have similar problems.


Thanks

 

[WanMan]

Isn't this projector LCD? I think you might have to realize the limitations of your screen, the enviornment, and most certainly your projector's ability for black levels and contrast.

 

[CMRA]

Since I too own an LCD projector, the Z1, and suffered a similar experience, maybe I can help. Going from white to grey seems to help. However, if you get too dark a grey you'll end up crushing the whites and the colors become less vibrant. Black levels and shadow details, however, are enhanced. Reflected light back onto the screen is controlled. Then I discovered 'Misty Evening' grey. This color seems to champion the best of white and grey and seems well suited for LCD projectors. PM me if you want the details.

 

[Grandarf]




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(Scenes buddy not seens!!! )


[edit] fixdt ypo(s_.

 

[crazyone]

I'm painting my own screen tomorow, do you or anyone else know what code this color has? I have a Panny AE-100

 

[rrhomes]

Hancock Fabrics has a Crushed Velvet (Very Dark Red, Black or Very Dark Green) 56 inch wide by up to 50 ft long. 2 sections would cover your entire wall with only the over lap in the middle and it will hide itself very well. I bought this at a shocking $9 yard. It is awesome HT Stuff very HT looking and the crushed look(Basically a bunch of wrinkles) looks very cool. I got the Deep Burgundy as the red ads a little style and basically is almost black. I'm going to clip it with the metal ring and hang it when I want to the I can remove it in less than 60 seconds if I need or want to take it down. It some of the best HT Fabric out here, Cheap, Absolutely Beautiful, and did I say how Gorgeous it is , OH and it very light also it not a very heavy fabric and it's incredibly deep and beautiful, oh I said that already. This IS what your looking for. david

 

[Gordon Groff]

Quote:

Originally posted by danjros OK, So i have the Panny 300 projected on a 101'' balckout screen painted with behr ultra white. Now I love the picture, but when there is a seen that is bright and also has some dark objects, the dark objects are extremely washed out....what I realized was that since all the walls are white they reflect a lot of light back onto the screen. Anyone know of a very cheap material that could be put on the walls to absorb light and not look like complete ****?? I know this is not exactly a screen question but I thought someone in this section may have similar problems. Thanks

Good question (despite the spelling errors ). It's true - in a room with light walls, absolute black levels are more a result of the room than the PJ technology. Regardless if it's DLP, LCD or CRT. I have a very bright projector (PLV-70), a bright screen (DaLite High Power) and light walls. When there is a bright scene, there is almost enough light in my fully darkened room to read by. The white drivers in my mains when uncovered almost look like headlights . My blacks are okay, however because of the screen. The High Power screen boosts the direct PJ light and reduces non-incident light, so the contrast between light and dark parts of the image makes the blacks look black, even though I know they can't be. I had a big improvement in contrast and apparent blacks when I went from a matte white screen (DaLight HCMW) to the High Power.


So - either paint or cover your walls or get a screen with gain that rejects ambient.


IMO


Gordon

 

[JuKu]

Gordon, Spot on as for the contrast goes. However, the pj/screen combination may be too bright for the pj's contrast. Whatever the room color, the result of such combination would be a gray screen when it should be black, compromising the image of dark scenes. For example, on a night sky the stars should shine from black background, not grey. In those situations, the room has little to do with it.


(It was a big surprise to me how grey a 1400:1 contrast pj "black" actually is at 1000 lumens. I love the bright scenes, but I'm getting a grey filter to tame the darks. And I'm getting a 2000 lumen, 10000:1 contrast pj when those can be had for less than $10k. )

 

[Gordon Groff]

Quote:

Originally posted by JuKu Gordon, Spot on as for the contrast goes. However, the pj/screen combination may be too bright for the pj's contrast. Whatever the room color, the result of such combination would be a gray screen when it should be black, compromising the image of dark scenes. For example, on a night sky the stars should shine from black background, not grey. In those situations, the room has little to do with it. (It was a big surprise to me how grey a 1400:1 contrast pj "black" actually is at 1000 lumens. I love the bright scenes, but I'm getting a grey filter to tame the darks. And I'm getting a 2000 lumen, 10000:1 contrast pj when those can be had for less than $10k. )

Me too! Thankfully, that won't happen until well after I pay off my current HT excesses.


My (admittedly limited) experience has not verified the "too bright" issue. In fact, I've swung 180 deg. from that based on what I'm seeing. If anyone has a "too bright" setup, it's me. Small room, good light control, 106" High Power screen (2.8 gain) that almost fills the end of my 11' wide room and a PLV-70 2200 lumen PJ. Black star fields look black to me simply because of the brightness of the stars and any other objects in the scene. The only time I can see a failing in blacks is when I project a solid 0 IRE pattern. With any IRE pattern that has other IRE's on it, the 0 IRE resumes it's pitch black appearance. Black perception is all about contrast IMO. I started with a gray screen and got a big improvement in PQ, contrast, and apparent blacks when I went HighPower -after calibration. That big difference in calibration settings and PQ in my setup is what has put me into the "brighter is better" camp.


Gordon