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hello, i thought i'd share my experience with fixing old rear pro sets...


i'm the second owner of my "lg 71sa1d-aa" set. i'm not great with electronics, but i do have a good understanding. i've had a few issues with the set, all of which i have fixed.


first of all, my set developed an arcing sound everytime i turned it on (some months after owning it.) while the set ran fine with no issues, i became curious... so one night i stood behind the rear cover and looked inside to see where this arcing sound was coming from. sure enough, it was coming from the lamp housing. it turned out the rubber sleeve that covers the wire from the ballast to the lamp was not entirely coverd. this meant the power coming from the ballast was jumping to the shortest point (which was the steel lamp housing.) simply pulling the rubber sleeve up entirely covering the wire fixed this arcing sound.


a few months later the set would randomly turn itself off and back on a few minutes later. i grew tired of this and decided to take off the rear cover and investigate. i found the wire from the power supply to the on/off switch was almost completely disconnected. simply pushing it back into place fixed this.


almost a year later the set would randomly turn itself off, but not back on again. having previously poked around i knew i was going in deep to find a fix this time. being optomistic and confident, i pulled out the entire projection housing and looked for burnt components. i spent a good 30 minutes looking and didnt find anything. being observant, the last time the set turned itself off, there was no lit up led's or internal fans turning. this gave me the impression the power supply was at fault. i followed everything from the wall socket to the power supply. i removed the power supply and saw some burnt solder underneath and decided i needed someone with more experience to go over the board to resolder anything that was damaged. i took it to my local tv repairer and asked if he could 'dry test' it for me. he wasnt as optomistic as i was about it being the fault of the set. it took a few days for him to go over it with a magnafying glass, but he found some bad/cracked solder around the high voltage mosfets etc. he resoldered them for me and was still certain the power supply was not at fault. cost me $30aud and some time to put everything back together. while i was at it i bought some anti-static cloths designed to collect dust. i went over everything including the three internal fans vacuuming/wiping dust off. i cleaned the very dusty lens with schwabs lens wipes. put everything back in and held my breath... over 30 hours viewing and not one sign of turning off!!


i cant describe how happy i am. the set cost me $900aud, $180aud for a new lamp and $30 to repair the power supply. overall the set has 4000 hours on it. i will do everything i can to keep this set running. i dont know what i'll do without it...


preventative maintenance from here on out. i'm sourcing replacement internal fans, replacing the bulb well before it's expected expiry date (i've read of lamps taking out ballasts), cleaning the dust filters every few months and powering down the set correctly (placing it on standby for 2 mintues and turning it off at the set and then the wall. this allows the fans to cool down the optics engine to prevent any burning of filters etc.)


having poked around i feel i can keep the set running for alot longer. it's a great technology (lcos) and definately dominates anything my mates are using, or whats available on the market today. i hope others are not giving in and trashing these sets for such a simple fix.


that's all for now. thanks for reading.


all the best,



regards,


justin
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Good writeup and welcome to the forums. I didn't know Goldstar sold LCoS sets, when did it come out?.

You are 'down under'?
 

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hello, thanks for the kind words.


yes, i'm from australia... is goldstar some alternate name for lg? the set was released in 2005. apparently the makers of the xd lcos light engine 'spatialight' could not keep up with lg's demand. the company wasn't doing great financially before the contract with lg and went bust not long after. i read that lg dumped these sets in australia and there werent many made. the person i bought it from was given it from lg as a replacement for his 60" dlp rear pro that stopped working. i can't believe such a great set can be overlooked and not re-made. i guess people arent interested in the bulkyness that is rear projection.


i bought a minty cine 9 a few months before i bought this set and haven't watched it once to this date. i've been advised not to run the cine 9 over 100" diagonal. watching a 71" screen everyday, the sound of 100" doesn't tickle my fancy anymore. like i said earlier, i wont know what todo if i can't keep this set running.


thanks for reading,



regards,


justin
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Goldstar is their actual name that was changed 10+ years ago to mean "Lucky Goldstar" i.e.: LG.
Quote:
i guess people arent interested in the bulkyness that is rear projection.
Yea, you can't hang it over a fireplace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
A member took the trouble to post his pic of what I assume is their 'green glob' problem. Correct me if that was a bad assumption;
Quote:
Originally Posted by provideo /forum/post/20939290

I'm trying to save a keepsake gift I received several years ago from a loved one. I have a Sony WEGA KDF-E42A10 that has developed the classic "yellow circle" in the middle of the screen. I tore down the optic block and discovered a "blister" on the little filter in front of the BL image panel. I've attached a photo to this post.


Would anyone out there have one of these sitting around or know where I might find one? Any help would be greatly appreciated and would mean a lot to my family.

Thanks,

Mike
 

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"rash of capacitor failures from the early & mid 2000's due to poor Taiwanese design"


Where does this bs come from? The Samsung DLP televisions use a Texas Instruments design and components that are manufactured in the USA and South Korea.


DLP was a transition technology bridging CRT and LED and as such it has its weak points in the use of a ultra high RPM color wheel and a badly designed and constructed light tunnel. Plasmas of the same era had even more problems though they have kept the AV repair shops in business.


Repairs if you do them yourself are going to cost $100 for the color wheel and $50 for a light tunnel. If you have a tech do it then add another $500. It may be worth considering replacing the set with a LCD TV as the 47" ones are selling for $700.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·

Quote:
"rash of capacitor failures from the early & mid 2000's due to poor Taiwanese design"

Where does this bs come from?

From dozens of reports, threads & articles on the subject. It's a well know fact. Do your research first. Just because you never heard of it, doesn't mean it doesn't/didn't exist.
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce /forum/post/20984649


A member took the trouble to post his pic of what I assume is their 'green glob' problem. Correct me if that was a bad assumption;

That's funny because my Wega has the same problem. I figure it's time for an upgrade so I was doing some research here on what to buy and ran into this thread!!
 

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hey bruce...


that picture you posted is what i fear will be the end of my lg set. something as small as an internal fan failure would cause this filter blob. also having the set too close to a wall would result in poor air circulation around the inside of the set. or simply not putting the tv into standby mode before powering down the set, which would turn the lamp housing fans off before extracting all the hot air from the lamp area.


on a side note, i sourced brand new replacement fans for my lg and theyre $50 (EACH!!) from a parts warehouse here in australia. these are your standard 80/120mm fans!! i simply cant find the same vol/amp fans around on the net though? anyone know of a good website or store? i refuse to pay this much, and continue to search...


may your tv set live forever
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
What voltage are the fans?
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·

Thanks to Low Tech for the following. Full thread in my 4th post:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Tech /forum/post/21279290


Ok, I had been testing my power supply mod to fix random power up issues. Parts list at the end.


I had noticed at times my DLP had powered on and off or just had the light flash without producing any picture or startup sound.


As of late I found that the power supply's heating up issue was because of the 12V 2.5A output was being consumed to the point of not keeping up with demand once fully warmed up.


The culperate can be easily found on the bottem side of the Main Board. If know how to solder components, the fix is about $30.00 for all the parts to repair your power supply and faulty main board components.


That is less than the cost of replacing both at over $325.00.


Samsung had used low cost filtering capacitors in the powersupply and revised a critical component change to the power supply in various areas.


What happens is a snow ball effect, filtering capacitor fail, causing higher spikes to hit and weaken the Metal Oxide Varistor at the end of the filtering stage.


The only way to know is to sniff for a slight oder of ozone or BBQ affect when the power supply has warmed up. Once you deturmine there is some oder. Power off and wait a few minutes before removing the power supply. The retangle box things are the poly film capacitors. They are along side the toroid (doughnut shaped) filters. Remove each one and look on the bottem ends for discoloration. Not all will be discolored but might as well be replaced as they have been stressed.


Once the Metal Oxide Varistor becomes too weak to filter, voltage spikes will be introduced into the output stage randomly.


Because of a design change to put the MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor) at the end not the begining near the fuse, and not to follow Fairchilds design guidelines in using proper filtering capacitors for the FSCQ0765RT TV switch to power the DC switched power to the main components.


As for the Main Board, this part is speculation about the parts used in the main board, but has truth to more low quailty parts.


There are two 470 Ohm 1/3w chip resistors powering a LM317 1A adjustable voltage regulator that is to deliver 6.3v to the main controller chip of the Main Board.


Mine were fried because of the voltage spikes, as they were used as surge protection. They were to fail like a fuse, but actually started to short out below the 150 ohm range. Thus over driving the curent capabilities of the 1A LM317 and making it unstable. Mine seemed to become damaged as once it heated up it ran into thermal breakdown causing more and more current to be consumed, and the 12v voltage from the power supply would drop. Because of the higher amount of current the power supply would heat up beyond its normal running temprature.


It was easy to spot without any tools, as it discolored the circuit traces at the resistors and made a blue tent, almost like someone marked the components for QC check.


==================================================


Ok here is what I accumulated for replacement to keep things tip top. Just because one component will fail, it is best to replace everything associated with the failed components function that could become stressed.


1x MM3Z8V2B - 200ma 8.2v Zener chip diode, location DZ209

1x LM317EMP - 1A adjustable regulator, location IC204

2x ERJ-P08J471V - 470 Ohm 1/3w anti-surge chip resistor, location R232 and R233


1x B32620J681J - 680pf film capacitor for PS, never was installed, location C8110, between main transformer and black heat sink.


3x B32620J471J - 470pf flim capacitor for PS, never was installed, location CS811, C823 & C827, all next to the rear heat sink back side.


2x V250LA40AP - 250 VAC / 330 VDC 6.5 KA MOV for PS and SPS, location GT802


4x V275LA20CP - 275VAC 5KA @ 473VAC 145J MOV, 1 @ location VX8015 and 3 optional for AC power receptical mod.


2x R46KI368000P0K - 0.68uf 275VAC Poly Film Capacitor, location CX8035 & CX8015


1x PHE840MD6680KD18R06L2 - 0.68uf 275VAC Poly Film Capacitor, location CX8025
pics removed from hosting site
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I just received a e-mail from Mitsubishi regard a class action lawsuit as follows concerning cap failures for V30 & V26 chassis;
Quote:
If you own or have owned any of the television sets listed below, you may be entitled to receive benefits as a result of the settlement of a class action lawsuit. Please go to http://settlement.mdea.com/ for complete details.


WD-52525

WD-52725

WD-52825

WD-52825G

WD-62525

WD-62725

WD-62825

WD-62825G

WD-52327

WD-62327

WD-52628

WD-62628

WD-52631

WD-57731

WD-57732

WD-65731

WD-65732

WD-Y57

WD-Y65

WD-73732

WD-57831

WD-65831

WD-73831


Further Qualification and Benefits

If you have one of the television models listed in the table above, please see the "How to File a Claim" document for more information on qualification and benefits.


Your Legal Rights and Options in this Settlement:
Do Nothing: You will be included in the Settlement and will receive the extended warranty benefit provided by the Settlement.
Exclude Yourself: You will not receive the full benefits provided by this Settlement. This is the only option that allows you to be part of an individual lawsuit (no class action) against Mitsubishi about the facts and legal claims in this case.

Be Heard or Object: Write to the Court about why you like or don't like the Settlement.

Go to Hearing: Attend a hearing before the Court about the fairness of the Settlement.


For more information regarding your options in this settlement, including pertinent dates, please see the "Notice" document ( http://settlement.mdea.com/Documents/notice.pdf ).


Full Details: please see the "Notice" document ( http://settlement.mdea.com/Documents/notice.pdf ) for the full details of this case. Excerpts as follows;

If a Class Members V30 chassis or V26 chassis television experienced a failure related to the performance of the original capacitors prior to September 30, 2011, and the Class member has not yet paid to have it repaired, MDEA will provide either (i) a repair at no cost to the Class Member for parts or labor or (b) the opportunity to purchase a 2011 Mitsubishi DLP television at dealers cost. Class members who incurred charges stemming from repairs to the original capacitors between April 1, 2011 and September 30, 2011 will be reimbursed for

the reasonable expenses (parts and labor) incurred for such repairs to the extent that such repairs have not already been reimbursed.



This email was sent by: Mitsubishi Electric Visual Solutions America, Inc.

9351 Jeronimo Road Irvine, Ca., 92618, USA
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·

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Hello all, just joined the posts and have a question. I have an HP Pavillion MD5880N DLP tv and all of a sudden the other day the bottom half of the screen turned into pixelated longitudinal rectangles. We were watching TV and all of a sudden, BOOM, there is the SNAFU. I was still partially able to see the "picture" behind it and the top half of the screen was completely fine. I took the back off (unplugged of course) to see if a fan was not working and everything I could see was fine, all of the fans were working and there was minimal dust. I did the "error code" check and it turned out fine. Checked the connections to the HDMI and Component inputs and got no change in picture. Interesting though that when I slowly pulled out the green component video cable (blue and red had no difference in regards to the problem) the screen went to normal for just an instant. I am confounded and don't want to pay anybody to just replace a component when I can do it myself. Any ideas? I have attached a picture of what it looks like. Feel free to email me at bacchus dot winez at gmail dot com. Thanks for any help you can offer! -z
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Something in the video processing chain of circuits as it only affects a portion of the image would be my guess. I'm sure HP would say a LE change out would be in order unless there is a service document on it.


Those were not a popular TV and guessing on it's age it might be hard to get replacement parts for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
No stickies anymore??


That isn't going to help all the one time posters that don't have a clue where to begin.
 
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Hey Bacchus,


I've got the same exact problem with my HP mD5880. Happened just a few days ago. What a coincidence that are TVs are failing the same way within months of each other. One other symptom that you didn't mention is that my white rectangles are visible even after turning the TV off. There is a shutdown period after pressing the off button where the lamp is still on and the fans are still whirring. Normally the screen is dark during this period but for me, the white rectangles are still there until the TV completely shuts off.


I wish I had a better idea as to where to look for the problem. The HP service manual only shows a main board and the light engine for controlling the image. The white color of the rectangles indicates a bunch of DMD mirrors stuck on. The "half screen" effect to me indicates a digital failure of some sort. I'm thinking something maybe in the addressing of the individual mirrors of the DMD? How is this done? I'm wondering if it could be something simple like a corroded connector carrying the drive signals. Worse would be one of an array of drive amplifiers.


I'm already looking at a new LED/LCD display but I may poke around the inside of my old HP like you before doing that.
 

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Hey all just chiming in here. I have a Mitsubishi WD-62628 that gave me some trouble when I got it off of someone (it was free no worries). The left half and only the exact left half of the screen was showing corruption where there were a lot of pink and green blobs of color. I started poking around inside and comparing to some parts online of some of the boards I noticed the ATI Xcellion (sp?) chip on mine didn't have a heatsink. Well... I put a large one on it and the problem went away for several months. Sadly though it popped up again the other day on me
I am assuming the main board 934C152004 needs to be replaced on it since I cant really do much with the chip that is bad past what I did to keep it cool. I tried to put a heatsink with a fan on it but still no luck. I lucked out and have a filler TV in place until I can afford a better one (a returned Westinghouse 55" 1080p 120Hz marked down to $270).


I seen a Used board on ebay for $125 but I was leery since it was used
and more than likely I'd be due for a new bulb soon enough.


Anyone ran in to problems like this? I thought about trying to do a reflow of that chip with some flux and a heatgun, or possibly even trying to protect the plastic on it and caps and stick it in the oven



Otherwise I might part it out if someone needs parts from it to repair theirs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
If there are any dead links, please bring them to my attention.
 
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Outside links confirmed and updated!


.
 
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