[misterchicken]


I'm in the process of identifying the proper mount for my projector (BenQ W1070).  It will be installed in a drop ceiling (2x2ft panels).

 

According to the BenQ website , I will need to have the center of the lens 5" from the ceiling.  I have a 120" fixed screen with felt frame that will be mounted on my wall which is 7' 10" tall and 12' 0" wide.  My plan is to mount the screen very close to the ceiling, since I've found this to be the best viewing angle, leaving about 5" between the top of the frame and the ceiling. 

 

Based on the lens needing to be 5" or so from the ceiling, it sounds like I'll need to mount the projector as flush as I can to the tile. 

 

1) Assuming I'm interpreting this correctly, does anyone see any issues with this plan? 

2) Additionally, can anyone recommend a mount (under $100) that would accomplish this task? 

3) I'm going to need some support above the ceiling tile, so I could use some help determining the best way to connect the projector to the ceiling while maintaining this 5" clearance for the lens.

 

Thanks!

 

 

[weaselfest]

a good way of tightly hugging the ceiling is moving your mounting point above the ceiling tile and dropping a 1 1/2" threaded pipe (ID) down through a 1 3/4" hole in the tile. Your local hardware store should have a number of different lengths of pre threaded pipe that can be painted whatever color matches best and flanges for providing a mounting point. Simply fur in a piece of dimension lumber above the projector mounted at an elevation that leaves the projector lens at the desired height. The biggest problem for your $100 budget will be the piece that adapts the pipe to your projector. Peerless, Chief and others make both "universal" and model specific mounting plates that attach to threaded pipe, but they usually start at around $100. This makes for a super clean install as long as you do a good job lining up the hole in the ceiling tile, but as tight as the projector will end up to the ceiling, you will probably need to be on a ladder to see it.

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

Depending on the mount you may need to recess part of the attachment bracket into the ceiling (Hole). Have you thought about lowering the screen a couple of inches?

 

[misterchicken]

Yeah, I could probably lower it another few inches and still be really happy with it. No reason for not having the lens shift button on. Would that buy me more wiggle room?

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

I tried and I'm not sure what that button does, it didn't change anything

 

[misterchicken]


Quote:

Originally Posted by weaselfest  /t/1521152/projector-mount-drop-ceiling-help#post_24444360


a good way of tightly hugging the ceiling is moving your mounting point above the ceiling tile and dropping a 1 1/2" threaded pipe (ID) down through a 1 3/4" hole in the tile. Your local hardware store should have a number of different lengths of pre threaded pipe that can be painted whatever color matches best and flanges for providing a mounting point. Simply fur in a piece of dimension lumber above the projector mounted at an elevation that leaves the projector lens at the desired height. The biggest problem for your $100 budget will be the piece that adapts the pipe to your projector. Peerless, Chief and others make both "universal" and model specific mounting plates that attach to threaded pipe, but they usually start at around $100. This makes for a super clean install as long as you do a good job lining up the hole in the ceiling tile, but as tight as the projector will end up to the ceiling, you will probably need to be on a ladder to see it.

Thanks, Wfest.  So, it looks I'll need to go up into the ceiling above the area where I'll be mounting the projector.  From there, I'll need to measure what length of pipe I'll need to connect the mount (leaning toward the Peerless PRGUNV for under $100) to the mount plate up in the ceiling area.  Assuming I mount the projector in a way where only a bit of the extension pipe is showing below the ceiling tile, the projector should be pretty flush with the ceiling -- a distance of about 8-9 inches from the ceiling tile to the center of the lens.  At least, that's what I'm hoping.

 

As for the outlet for the projector, any idea what I should be specifically asking the electrician to do?  I'd like power installed in either the same ceiling tile or an adjacent one. 

 

I was also likely going to have him fish my HDMI from the receiver (located below my projection screen) through the drywall and up to the projector as well.  I've got a 25ft HDMI and the distance up the wall (~7ft) to the projector (~12ft back above the drop ceiling) is about 19-20ft total.  Figured it was easier for him to do that than me.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC  /t/1521152/projector-mount-drop-ceiling-help#post_24445556


I tried and I'm not sure what that button does, it didn't change anything

I'm trying to understand what the lens shift allows me to do when it is mounted on my ceiling.  Does it help me if my projector is mounted 1) too close to the ceiling or 2) too far from the ceiling?  Anyone know?

 

[weaselfest]

Lens shift is a feature that provides the ability to make minor adjustments to the projected image position by moving the lens assembly inside the projector chassis, usually with less unwanted distortions than moving the entire projector. It gives you a little wiggle room in terms of correcting any misalignment of the projector with the screen.

As far as the electrical outlet, I would suggest locating it, if possible in the same tile as the projector mount, about 6-8" behind the pole, with another single gang low voltage ring next to it for a pass through wall plate for your HDMI cable. That way if you ever decide to remove the projector and any evidence of its existance, you only have to replace one ceiling tile.

 

[misterchicken]



Quote:
Originally Posted by weaselfest  /t/1521152/projector-mount-drop-ceiling-help#post_24448396


Lens shift is a feature that provides the ability to make minor adjustments to the projected image position by moving the lens assembly inside the projector chassis, usually with less unwanted distortions than moving the entire projector. It gives you a little wiggle room in terms of correcting any misalignment of the projector with the screen.

As far as the electrical outlet, I would suggest locating it, if possible in the same tile as the projector mount, about 6-8" behind the pole, with another single gang low voltage ring next to it for a pass through wall plate for your HDMI cable. That way if you ever decide to remove the projector and any evidence of its existance, you only have to replace one ceiling tile.

Thanks, W.  When determining the distance from the screen to the projector, I've heard that you don't want the manual zoom either all the way zoomed out or zoomed in.  I've heard you want it somewhere in the middle in case you need to make a little adjustment once the projector is mounted.  Is that correct?

 

[weaselfest]

Lots of opinions on this subject. Have you spent much time on the projector forums? The $3000+ one has several posts on zoom optimization. In general, closer gets you more brightness, further back gets you better contrast ratios. If you have some play in potential positions, you may be well served to setup the projector on a ladder and experiment.

 

[weaselfest]

another way to route the HDMI cable to the projector is to drill a hole in the board upon which you mount your pipe flange to enable a path down the pipe and out through the projector mounting adapter, thus eliminating another hole in the ceiling.

 

[BIGmouthinDC]



Quote:
Originally Posted by weaselfest  /t/1521152/projector-mount-drop-ceiling-help/0_40#post_24449097


another way to route the HDMI cable to the projector is to drill a hole in the board upon which you mount your pipe flange to enable a path down the pipe and out through the projector mounting adapter, thus eliminating another hole in the ceiling.

Yup

 

[Tfleming675]




I have a small power conditioner plug mounted above the drop ceiling. For wiring I have one HDMI and three Cat 6 cables. The Cat 6 is for future use. If I need to change the HDMI I can use baluns in the future. Run the cable now if you can. You can never have too much cable.

 

[misterchicken]



Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC  /t/1521152/projector-mount-drop-ceiling-help#post_24449450


Yup

Where is the outlet in that photo, BIG?

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

The romex connects with the power cord inside the metal down pole. The metal down pole serves the same purpose as a surface mounted junction box.

 

[misterchicken]



Quote:

Originally Posted by weaselfest  /t/1521152/projector-mount-drop-ceiling-help#post_24449097


another way to route the HDMI cable to the projector is to drill a hole in the board upon which you mount your pipe flange to enable a path down the pipe and out through the projector mounting adapter, thus eliminating another hole in the ceiling.

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC  /t/1521152/projector-mount-drop-ceiling-help#post_24449450



Yup

I went ahead and purchased the Peerless PRGUNV mount for about $100, and it's arriving tomorrow (Sat).  I was hoping to find some pictures or experiences from other people on here who have done something similar, but didn't have much luck.  I'm assuming I can screw a couple pieces of 2x4, and/or a small piece of plywood (any idea on thickness I'd need?), to some joists above the drop ceiling and attach the mounting plate to that.  Then, I can figure out how long an extension pole I'll need and run the pole through a hole I will cut in the ceiling tile.  Run the HDMI through the pole, attach the Peerless to the projector, screw the Peerless onto the pole, and we should be good!  What could go wrong?? 

 

[kevin g.]

I did what I think you are attempting...I have low ceilings in my basement so it was necessary to put my projector as close to the tile as possible. (no lens shift). My first iteration had the 2x4 measured to the backside of the tile, so I could screw the base of the mount to the outside of the tile. This was not optimal for my height, even though I liked the aesthetics a bit more. I raised the mounting point up inside the tile, and I cut the hole in the tile with a 3" hole saw. (It's much cleaner than I thought it would be...I have not had good luck cutting these cheap tiles from Lowe's and HD) to allow for some wiggle room.

 

[misterchicken]



Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin g.  /t/1521152/projector-mount-drop-ceiling-help#post_24451918


My first iteration had the 2x4 measured to the backside of the tile, so I could screw the base of the mount to the outside of the tile. This was not optimal for my height, nor the aesthetics. I raised the mounting point up inside the tile, and cut a bit larger hole in it, to allow for some wiggle room.  I cut the hole in the tile with a 3" hole saw.

Thanks, Kevin.  I'm attempting to do something similar where I'll have most of the extension pole recessed above the tile, with just a little showing.  Want to get it as flush as possible as well.  Not sure yet how long of a length I'll need yet. 

 

1) How did you connect the power for the projector?

 

2) Where are your AV (HDMI) and power wires on the room-side of the tile?  I can't see how you ran them in the pics.

 

[kevin g.]



Quote:
Originally Posted by misterchicken  /t/1521152/projector-mount-drop-ceiling-help#post_24451982


Thanks, Kevin.  I'm attempting to do something similar where I'll have most of the extension pole recessed above the tile, with just a little showing.  Want to get it as flush as possible as well.  Not sure yet how long of a length I'll need yet. 


1) How did you connect the power for the projector?


2) Where are your AV (HDMI) and power wires on the room-side of the tile?  I can't see how you ran them in the pics.

Routed as best I could in my situation. I have heavy duty Monoprice cables, and they do not bend the easiest. Breakout cables were purchased and attached, but wreaked havoc with my switching, and handshake.

 

[misterchicken]



Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin g.  /t/1521152/projector-mount-drop-ceiling-help#post_24452056





Routed as best I could in my situation. I have heavy duty Monoprice cables, and they do not bend the easiest. Breakout cables were purchased and attached, but wreaked havoc with my switching, and handshake.

Thanks.  I'm kind of a newb in this space having just purchased my first projector a month ago, but wanted to know more about how you have power running to your projector.  I thought I needed to have a separate outlet that was mounted in the ceiling tile, but perhaps their are other options that I'm not aware of?

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

A first timer is better off with an outlet mounted flush with the ceiling tile face. Really hard then to do anything against code.