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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need a projector to ceiling mount in a living room for big events when the 73" Mitsu is not enough. HD is a requirement and there is a higher than normal amount of ambient light. Other than that, I'm wide open. Any recommendations?
 

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Well paired with the proper screen, you might consider the Infocus SP7205. It is about the brightest HD2+ DLP projector on the market. It offers good contrast, good colors, quiet, small size, good feature set, and the price is a good amount lower than your budget (street price). Keep in mind however, that no projector performs that well in ambient light situations as the main problem is the washout caused by the stray light. You could buy a $100000 projector but it still won't fix that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. Is 1000 lumens a lot? Anyone else have any recs?
 

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Keep your eye on the new Canon SX50 as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
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Originally posted by Ursa
Keep your eye on the new Canon SX50 as well.
Although I'm not very educated yet on projectors, that seems the be an impressive unit at 2,500 lumens, 720p & 1080i, quiet fan (32db) and at under $4,000.


Any idea how much Keystone correction I would need if it were 15 feet from a 120" screen flushmounted on a 9'9" ceiling? (It was 10' until it was decoupled with clips and then double sheetrocked).


It claims a 100" picture size from only 9'8" and additional zoom range from .5X to 12X. That means I can go bigger than 100" right? Thanks folks.
 

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We don't have any info on offset of the PJ yet (do we?). It will definitely do the screen at that distance, and it may be that it will do your 120" screen perfectly ceiling mounted. Or it may need a slight bit of keystone adjustment.


Have to wait and see when we get a little more info on the thing. For you intended use, though, this would be a great solution. You may find your little TV falling into disuse after dark as well.


BB
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
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Originally posted by Brandon B
We don't have any info on offset of the PJ yet (do we?). It will definitely do the screen at that distance, and it may be that it will do your 120" screen perfectly ceiling mounted. Or it may need a slight bit of keystone adjustment.


Have to wait and see when we get a little more info on the thing. For you intended use, though, this would be a great solution. You may find your little TV falling into disuse after dark as well.


BB
Thanks! It's an amazing world when 73" becomes your "little" tv. I really appreciate the help.
 

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Yeah, I'd definitely give this Canon a look first, followed by the 7205 Jason recommended. 1000 lumens is not a lot where ambient light is present. But the current Canon is a 4:3 projector which means you'll want to incorporate a Panamorph lens in your setup, for even greater brightness.


Now when you say "big events" what do you mean? What will you be watching during those times? If mainly HDTV sports events, I wouldn't rule out the Sanyo PLV70 though it is a bit long in the tooth. It is definitely a light cannon. But if you're mainly watching movies, I wouldn't go for the Sanyo as it is weak in the CR department compared to the 7205.


Watch out, you may definitely decide to get rid of that small TV after you've experienced real big screen HT. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
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Originally posted by DanHouck
Yeah, I'd definitely give this Canon a look first, followed by the 7205 Jason recommended. 1000 lumens is not a lot where ambient light is present. But the current Canon is a 4:3 projector which means you'll want to incorporate a Panamorph lens in your setup, for even greater brightness.


Now when you say "big events" what do you mean? What will you be watching during those times? If mainly HDTV sports events, I wouldn't rule out the Sanyo PLV70 though it is a bit long in the tooth. It is definitely a light cannon. But if you're mainly watching movies, I wouldn't go for the Sanyo as it is weak in the CR department compared to the 7205.


Watch out, you may definitely decide to get rid of that small TV after you've experienced real big screen HT. :)
Does that mean the new canon is going to be 4x3? I assume the panamorph lens makes it widescreen, are they terribly expensive?


"Big Events" would be sports events in HD and maybe DVD's. You're probably right and I'll end up using it all the time.


Sorry, but what is the CR department?
 

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Panamorph lenses run between $500 to a $1K+ depending upon brand and location of purchase. Check the marketplace for used ones (I might be willing to cut you a deal on mine if I pass this little puppy up... ;) ), or check AVS for new ones.


CR = Contrast Ratio (typically on/off contrast ratio) - the ratio of the brightest light to the lowest light output of the projector (aka the difference between white and black, respectively). Beyond this definition you begin to invoke religious discussions when you try to map it back to picture quality (PQ).


Later,

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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Originally posted by Ursa
Panamorph lenses run between $500 to a $1K+ depending upon brand and location of purchase. Check the marketplace for used ones (I might be willing to cut you a deal on mine if I pass this little puppy up... ;) ), or check AVS for new ones.


CR = Contrast Ratio (typically on/off contrast ratio) - the ratio of the brightest light to the lowest light output of the projector (aka the difference between white and black, respectively). Beyond this definition you begin to invoke religious discussions when you try to map it back to picture quality (PQ).


Later,

Bill
Thanks Ursa. Since I don't have a religious eye for these things I stay away from those discussions. Does one only need a panamorphic lens when using a 4x3 projector to view a 16x9 picture?
 

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You don't specifically need it, it compresses the image so you keep all your lumens in the 16x9 image. However, you may also need a scaler to stretch the 16x9 image to the full 4x3 panel. Another $1-2K.


Another issue with a panamorph is I believe it drops you image down, which would mean even more keystone correction required. Unless you could use it upside down to eliminate offset already there. Anyone know why that could not be done?


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Quote:
Originally posted by Brandon B
Another issue with a panamorph is I believe it drops you image down, which would mean even more keystone correction required. Unless you could use it upside down to eliminate offset already there. Anyone know why that could not be done?
I'm sure I've tried it. I think it is just image distortion that keeps it from working well. My memory is that it was enough that nobody would want to do it.


I think it is fairly accurate to say that a Panamorph drops the image down, but it can get a little more complicated that this. For instance, in a ceiling mount situation it could drop the top of the image down while also raising the bottom of the image up (since it is reducing the height). Some of these 4:3 projectors have a feature where the 16:9 portion can be moved up or down within the 4:3 space and this gives quite a bit of flexibility. However, this feature is gone when you stretch the 16:9 image into the full 4:3 panel. Much of this comes into play if people are considering a High Power screen, since it is retroreflective and having the projector near the viewer gives the most gain. This is one reason that I felt that the HT1000+Panamorph didn't make a great combination with a High Power screen. The image offset with that combo (the HT1000 already had it's own built in offset) made it difficult to get good gain to the viewers.


In any case, hopefully this Canon has a feature for stretching things 33% vertically for use with a Panamorph, as the SX21 does.


--Darin
 

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A Panamorph (I don't know about the ISCO or whatevertheothercompanysnameis) does increase the offset. If memory serves, its an additional 6.9% of throw (not screen height). Thus, if you have a long throw, then you will have a pretty big offset using a Panamorph - even if the projector is pretty flat on its own.


As for flipping it, I doubt that would work given the geometry of the prisms involved. I think that would put the image hitting the surface of the first prism at the wrong angle for the lens to work correctly.


Later,

Bill
 

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Darin -


I read his post to mean his screen is mounted right up against the ceiling, so any increase in offset would be a problem for him whether it brought the bottom up or not. But maybe he meant the PJ was up flush with the ceiling. Derek?


BB
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sorry for not being clearer. The pj is flush mounted while the screen while be a drop down from in the ceiling.
 

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If you have some lattiitude in where you put the screen (up and down), then you are good to go with a lens (within reason...). I would recommend sitting tight, read-up on as many of the concepts as possible, and then make your purchase decision closer to the holidays (or after). There are several products out there that will make you happy; the question is which one!


Later,

Bill
 

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Do you have a back room behind your main rec room? If so you could cut a hole in the wall and mount this beast . It's big (40 lbs.) and loud but if it was in a different room and you used a grey screen (.7 or so gain) you would get some great benefits:


High resolution: 1366 x 768

Decent CR: 900:1

HDTV AR: 16:9

Two Lamps: More flexibility (one with lights out, two with lights on)

Super High Lumens: 4000! (with a grey screen and this much light, this would probably be your best chance at combating high ambient light).


Here is a review on projector central:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/sanyo_wf10.htm

Exact street prices aren't allowed on this forum but it should be under $10K with lens (they have swappable lenses to fit all installs) which is in your stated range.


Maybe you could get a demo or rental or something to test it out.... I've always been curious to see what this would do in an HT environment with a grey screen.

-Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Quote:
Originally posted by mpjohnst
Do you have a back room behind your main rec room? If so you could cut a hole in the wall and mount this beast . It's big (40 lbs.) and loud but if it was in a different room and you used a grey screen (.7 or so gain) you would get some great benefits:


High resolution: 1366 x 768

Decent CR: 900:1

HDTV AR: 16:9

Two Lamps: More flexibility (one with lights out, two with lights on)

Super High Lumens: 4000! (with a grey screen and this much light, this would probably be your best chance at combating high ambient light).


Here is a review on projector central:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/sanyo_wf10.htm

Exact street prices aren't allowed on this forum but it should be under $10K with lens (they have swappable lenses to fit all installs) which is in your stated range.


Maybe you could get a demo or rental or something to test it out.... I've always been curious to see what this would do in an HT environment with a grey screen.

-Matt
Wow. I do have a room back there where it's possible but it would be a 40' throw distance.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by DerekFSU
Wow. I do have a room back there where it's possible but it would be a 40' throw distance.
Actually, they do have a lens that will accommodate that throw! Check this PDF for the available options and you can look up the prices by their model numbers. Most have power lens shift, zoom and focus too!


The only problem I could foresee with that long of a throw is if you have a low ceiling, peoples heads might get in the way. If you have a higher ceiling and the lens has lens vertical lens shift, though, you might be able to do a flush mount with the ceiling. Enjoy your search!

-Matt
 
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