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Discussion Starter #1
I have found contradictory advice on the proper way to use twist-on connectors with RG6 cable. Would like to know answers to the following:


1. Should one peel back the braid or cut it off?

2. Does one also peel back/cutaway the foil as well?


Originally looked at: http://www.swhowto.com/CoaxStrip.htm which shows eliminating the foil while other sites show to keep it.
 

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I'm sorry to avoid your question but I wouldn't use twist ons at all. Compression fittings are probably the best but tools are expensive. Crimp ons are very good and the tools don't cost that much. Just don't use the stamped steel type crimpers.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf
I'm sorry to avoid your question but I wouldn't use twist ons at all. Compression fittings are probably the best but tools are expensive. Crimp ons are very good and the tools don't cost that much. Just don't use the stamped steel type crimpers.
The question wasn't really about twist-on's and was more about stripping coax...
 

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Thats why greywolf said he was going to avoid the question. For the most part its folding it back a bit, you could cut it off and I dont see it being a problem as long as it isnt too much of a length, and/or makes it too thin so the f connector is loose. But most of the time its folding it back. And yes compression connectors are much much better, youll need a compression tool (40-50 dollars), and a coax stripper (10-15 dollars), and of course some f compression connectors, you can find all of this on partsexpress.
 

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I found that in practice, it was more of a mechanical issue than electrical. If at least one of the 2-3-4 layers of shielding is making good contact with the shell of the F-connector in any way, the center conductor is the proper length, there are no stray braid wires to short out, and the dialectric (the white inner material) is flush with the inner rim, the connector will work well electrically. The real consideration is how strong is the connection (i.e. will it pull off with too little force?), or will it degade over time due to environmental issues.


Personally, I leave the innermost foil intact, so it slides up INSIDE the inner barrel of the F-connector, and then fold back the remaining layers, but it depends on the tolerances of the cable and connector. Crimp and compression types fit "perfectly" this way when paired the correct cable type, e.g. quad shield. Twist-on types may need more prep fussing as they are kind of generic for any type RG-6 cable.
 

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New guy here - I'm noticing that the compression fit Leviton F-connectors for RG6 quad cable are *very* tight, and allow very little space for the extra shielding/foil to fold back over the outside of the cable.


It doesn't seem to matter, though, as the inner "barrel" actually digs into the middle layers of shielding/foil, making what I assume to be a very good connection.


While the tools *are* expensive, it's a very solid connection. When the stuctured wiring is completed, testing will tell me for sure, I suspect.
 

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Check out your local Home Depot and see if they've started carrying the Data Shark line of wiring tools. My Home Depot has the coax compression tool for $17. Compression tools are not that complicated or high precision so it's not that surprising that a tool can be sold for so little.


As far as cable shielding and connectors, I think Satori is probably right. Unless you need the absolute best performance, you can ususally get away with a sloppy installation and still have the connection work.


If you want to know the right way to put on a connector, go to website of the connector manufacturer. They will usually have a data sheet with all the cutting dimensions and procedures to put on a connector so it will perform well under lab testing. There are all kinds of tiny little things going on in high performance connectors that require tight tolerances. But for home use, a few extra dB of return loss won't hurt you.


From one who has done BNC, N, UHF, SMA, and F connectors.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwarner
From one who has done BNC, N, UHF, SMA, and F connectors.
What? No DIN connectors? How do you terminate your 1 5/8" coax?
 

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Compression fittings are the only way to go. I would not use anything else. You can pick up the compression tool, stripper, and a bag of fittings for around $100 (a good one). This will make very clean and perfect fittings.


How many do you need to terminate?


Ronnie
 

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chiltown,


I'm guessing that you may only have a handful of connections to do which is why you are considering twist ons? They would be my absolutely last choice for an F connector. They are hard to twist on and then they don't stay on the cable over time. I went through that phase of using cheap and simple too.


If you want to get by with the minimum investment, crimp on connectors like they sell at Radio Shack will get you by. You can use a pair of pliers to do the crimping. But squeeze hard enough to get the crimped part to sink into the cable jacket to make sure it stays. The cheap $6 hex crimp tool they sell will do a more reliable job if you're willing to invest in that. I try to leave the foil on and fold back the braid for those crimp connectors. You want the connector inner sleave to go under the braid to ensure a solid shield connection. If the center insulation won't fit without peeling off the foil, go ahead and peel it. You'll scrunch up the foil when you push the connector on the cable but make sure the inner sleave of the connector gets under that braid. The sleave will take over the shielding job that the foil was doing and give you an adequate connection.


Of course, go for the compression connectors if you can.

Quote:
What? No DIN connectors? How do you terminate your 1 5/8" coax?
I press fit it into hecklers where the sun don't shine. :eek: :D
 
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