Man, this is turning into a great thread!
I'm excited about the potential--and excited to see what the V1500 can do. I'm also excited that the result is pretty smooth from 20 down to 15hz (there's a dip in there--but it's pretty darn close).Glad you figured things out bud! Impressive output from the S3000i in your large room. Looks like 105 dB at 20 Hz and 110 by 22 or so! Duals of those should give you reference level, or close to it, over a pretty wide bandwidth.
Given your measurements, it's clear your AV7702 SW output is plenty capable of driving your SWs to full output. I therefore seen no benefit to either of us in measuring my unit.Would love to see your results and see how they compare to mine.
That's basically the exact impression I'm walking away with. The V1500 is an impressive performer for a $1k budget. The reality is that the S3000i is more expensive because it is a higher performing product.Although every room is different, it looks as though a couple of things are clear: 1) The S3000i is worth the price difference due to similar output around tune, stronger low frequency extension, and of course higher output above tune. 2) The V1500 is a good value for those that don't have the budget for the S3000i, and does have impressive extension for a ported sub.
Have to say, I am coming away quite impressed by the S3000i.
While I'm concerned about this as well, I don't want to jump to conclusions about what's happening here. I've collected as much data as I can and I'll give Tom a call today to chat with him.The area of concern is what it took to get each of these subs to proper output with a possible culprit being input voltage to the ICE amp. I have not measured voltage but according to the Datasheet, my Anthem MRX510 delivers up to 6V at SW output.
The lower measurement in my previous graph is around 95dB. I just looked back and realized that due to the legend size, the scale had jumped to 10dB instead of 5dB. I reposted a new version here.Can you post a comparison of FRs at 90-95db or so? They look very close, but wanted to get an understanding of their responses when in their 'sweet spot' so to speak.
Thank you; while I spent over a week in deep frustration, I have learned so much! This experience has been truly awesome.Nalthien I'm very impressed by your thread, your attention to detail and thoroughness has really turned it into a treasure chest of information worth paying attention to. Nice work nice comparisons.
Nice work. Now add another s3000i to smooth out the FR beside from the extra output and you will be golden.The lower measurement in my previous graph is around 95dB. I just looked back and realized that due to the legend size, the scale had jumped to 10dB instead of 5dB. I reposted a new version here.
Hi Brian--thanks for chiming in here! I'm excited to get my attenuators so I can set the subwoofer trims back to normal levels. Primarily, I want to be able to bump the trim up a little bit for source material that has lower volume on the low frequencies. At the moment, I'm worried if I dial things up at all at the moment that I'll hit clipping again.Sorry I am late to the party, but happy to see you figured out the solution and enjoyed the learning experience. There was never anything wrong or broken about any of the equipment or wires, but the gain staging of the system needed to be optimized. With the highish voltage available from the Marantz you were clipping the input on the sub and/or the minidsp. This was creating the distortion (clipping) you were hearing and limiting the maximum output of the system. The amplifier should be the first thing to clip, not anything upstream. The solution is move some gain from an upstream device, the AVR, to the downstream device, the sub. This is what using the Pioneer forced you to do. As you discovered, you can do the same thing with the Marantz by lowering the subwoofer trim and/or adding those RCA -12dB attenuators in line and raising the gain control on the sub to compensate. There is a lot of action in the first half of rotation on the gain control, so you might not have to move it much to get where you need to be.
Since my only good option for output was HDMI, I need the pre/pro in the mix. That said, I didn't add the MiniDSP into the chain until I knew what was going on. I don't have any EQ on it; simply using it for its -6dB attenuation.A few suggestions
1. When attempting to confirm speaker performance, use as simple a signal chain as possible. In your case, perhaps going directly from the headphone output of the laptop to the sub. Then add the minidsp. Then add the AVR. Then add Audessey,
I recommend this to everyone; it's something I learned being a software engineer for so many years. When in doubt, check and recheck your methodology for testing.2. Always test the tester first! And if at some point something does not seem right, Test it again!. Your moving the mic towards the speaker to see if the level would increase was a good idea.
The multimeter was worth its weight in gold as it led me to the solution. Best $25 I spent on this process--and now that I've shared that information around, maybe others can benefit!3. Use meters and ears. When they agree, you know you are not fooling yourself. A simple cheap multimeter like you now have is accurate enough at low frequencies to be a big help.
Thank you--and yessir!Your perseverance is admirable and your feeling of accomplishment at figuring it out must be very satisfying. Now go annoy the neighbors!