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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, I'm driving myself crazy so I was hoping you other Panny owners could help me. After doing the flicker adjustment and a slight defocus, I don't see any scanline artifacts. But then I bumped my pj and had to readjust the zoom, etc... Anyway, I decided I needed to redo my defocus. So I thought I had it the way I wanted it.


But then last night I fired it up to show a friend, and I noticed the scanlines popping up, and I thought I'd have to spend the next hour trying to get it just right. But when I went back maybe a half hour later to adjust it, I couldn't see any scanlines, even when repeating the same movie clip that I just saw it on.


So my question is:


Any thoughts on which percentage of the scanlines is eliminated by the flicker vs. the defocus? Is it 50/50 or does the flicker do anything at all and it's all the defocus? I was thinking that it was all the defocus until last night and now I wonder if it's the flicker, but it took some time for the panels to settle out after warming up.


I honestly can't see it at all when I look for it now, it's not because I'm engrossed in a movie, it's just not there. If it's the flicker that's getting rid of it, and I just need to wait for the pj to warm up, then great, I won't spend so much time trying to find the perfect defocus spot.
 

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I notice a HUGE reduction in scanlines after the PJ has been running for some time. I've also read that it's best to perform the flicker tweak after your PJ has warmed up. There must be some relationship between these things.
 

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does one have to do the flicker adjustment each and every time one warms up?? or just once?


(i don't have a 300 yet, but soon)...what is this scan line artifact anyway? can you describe what it is like?


thanks :)
 

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Jeff is correct, it changes as the projector warms up :)


There's probably a free running oscillator in there ;)


I'd say it's 66%/33% flicker/defocus, I wasn't really seeing them often after just the tweak, the focus kills them completely and of course the focus isn't affected by warm-up so in the first 10 minutes it's more significant then.


If you set the flicker adjust deliberately bad, it's scanline city :) If you set it really really bad you can get some amusing effects :D


Slateef, you only have to do it once, just do it after it's warmed up not when cold.


-- Jon
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I noticed last night that as soon as I turned the pj on and checked the flicker, red and blue were fine but green was flickering at my normal setting of 72 and I had to go down to 70 to get it to stop. But then after it warmed up, 72 was the correct setting. So from now on I'll just leave it at 72 and let it warm up before I start to worry about it.


DrewB, you won't see flickers, and if you do see scanlines, we can help you make them go away completely.
 

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slateef: the scanline artifact is seen as subtle horizontal lines that appear on every other row of pixels during vertical movement of the camera (pan) or an object in the frame. When the camera is panning slowly, the scanlines fill the entire picture and it looks like horizontal-only screendoor. I think some people call it "peekaboo screendoor" because it is only triggered by vertical motion. Some people only see it on certain objects, especially actors faces.
 

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errr doesn't sound very nice, especially in a close to 2000$ projector...having not seen it personally, just how bad is it? i mean is it very obvious (so that it interferes with the enjoyment of the movie)? and does this flicker/defocus tweak completely resolve this problem?


i'm trying to decide between the hs10 and the ae300....this may be one of the reasons i decide to go with the hs10 unless you can convince me otherwise! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
slateef, if you'll read my posts you'll see that I can't see it at all after the flicker and defocus. I think I just noticed it the other day because I started watching immediately after it fired up.


Also, I haven't seen the HS10, but if I'm not mistaken, it's not immune from this issue either. Plus you open up other cans of worms with the HS10, see the lamp problem threads.


But there is NO perfect pj, just like there's no perfect TV. You're talking to a bunch of obsessive perfectionists here, so you need to keep that in mind when we discuss "flaws" that most people would never notice.
 

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jacksonian,

How long is the "warm-up period"?
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by slateef
does one have to do the flicker adjustment each and every time one warms up?? or just once?


(i don't have a 300 yet, but soon)...what is this scan line artifact anyway? can you describe what it is like?


thanks :)
I've got 52 hours on my 300, and have never felt the need to do any special tweak or de-focusing.


Maybe I'm just not looking hard enough or correctly for these scan line artifacts, or maybe it's because I'm projecting on a white wall instead of a screen, but I think the picture looks amazing. I project an 8' wide picture, sit 14' back, and am happy as can be every time I fire up a movie.


Richard
 

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Thought I'd chime in here, as I've also posted before, the scan line artifact definitely lessens after the pj has warmed up. As Jacksonian points out this is easily demonstrated in the green panel. On first power up my green needs to be at 6E for no flicker, after about 20 to 30 min. it needs to be bumped up to 70. Sometimes I go as high as 71 but 70 seems to be just about right for mine. But I don't think it's completely related to the flicker adjustment. After about an hour the scan lines seem even much less noticeable and with the defocus will only pop out at me very rarely.


Slateef, I've seen the HS10 and with a perfect focus the same scan line artifact is visible but it is much less noticeable. This is an inherent LCD light engine artifact. The higher the resolution the better though. I was really wishing I had bought the HS10 for about 1 month after buying the L300U but the defocus really does help and I'm pretty happy now. Keep in mind that many people find that a slight defocus on the HS10 is also necessary to eliminate screendoor. I don't think you can go wrong with either pj.


Richard, congrats man. Glad to hear your enjoying your picture. Don't go looking for something you can't see, just enjoy.


Brent
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by BJM
I was really wishing I had bought the HS10 for about 1 month after buying the L300U but the defocus really does help and I'm pretty happy now. Keep in mind that many people find that a slight defocus on the HS10 is also necessary to eliminate screendoor. I don't think you can go wrong with either pj.
Brent!


Good to hear that you have settled in more with the PT-L300u!! I'm finally at the point that I no longer look for each little imperfection in the image. I just sit back and enjoy the movies! :)


I also went with a slight defocus. It seems to help. This setup should keep me satisifed for at least 2 years... hoping to skip the next generation and wait for the one after that.
 

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Thanks Sayer. Glad to hear your enjoying yours (not mine :)) as well. I know I'll eventually upgrade too but it'll probably be quite awhile.


Brent
 

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I visited Panasonic service in Finland on Wednesday. We compared my AE-300 to another AE-300 with PC via VGA and Bug´s life

DVD. The result was clear. My PJ had scanlines visible, another one didn´t. Not just after turn on neither after ten minutes usage. Mine had them visible all the time. So, there is some adjustment wrong inside my

PJ. The service guy thought that problem could be panels and their aligment, but let´s see, he promised to check it out

from manufacturer right after Eastern. I´m quite sure, it´s hardware based problem and hopefully repairable too !?


JJ
 
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