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Pulling XLR through smurf tubing

2255 Views 13 Replies 5 Participants Last post by ted_b, Jul 22, 2021

ted_b

Discussion Starter · Jul 13, 2021

I am finally ready to start cabling my new audio room (carpeting and finish work ended Friday). I put blue smurf tubes in the walls to facilitate pulling XLR and HDMI (already accomplished the HDMI but did it before ceiling went in, so had ability to literally shake the area of the smurf tube's flex/bend points and free up any clog). My longest XLR pull is 50 feet (up a wall, across the ceiling, down a wall). All that is currently in these three tubes (left rear surround, right rear surround, LFE sub) is the fish wire I sucked through when installing. Is this wire capable of pulling XLR or should I use the fish wire to pull through some nylon or stronger "rope"? And should I invest in cale pull lubricant or is there a foolproof nosecone I can use to make the XLR connector aerodynamic...at the head of the cable run? Maybe I'm overthinking this but hate to have a pull wire snap and be SOL. Thanks

Ted

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BIGmouthinDC

· #2 · Jul 13, 2021

I use the sucked in fish line to pull in a nylon parachute line.

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ted_b

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jul 13, 2021

Thanks Jeff, I will do that. Any tricks on wrapping the XLR connector to keep the edges from grabbing the smurf wall?

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gullfo

· #4 · Jul 13, 2021

normally you'd terminate the cables after the pull. using heat shrink tube over the end and trim it smooth plus ensure the rope is parallel to the end will make the pull much easier. if you are running multiples - i've recommend taking off the heads if you have them already and terminate once pulled.

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BIGmouthinDC

· #5 · Jul 13, 2021

I form a missile shaped cone at the connector with tape. But terminating the end after the cord is in place is a superior method.

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ted_b

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jul 13, 2021

I'll do the missile shaped cone. This is fairly high end XLR cabling that was ordered and terminated professionally, and I am not going to cut the ends off, unfortunately.

Headed to Home Cheapo to get paracord, thanks.

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ted_b

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jul 13, 2021 (Edited)

Brain fart...the other ends are 1/4" TRS (Coleman balanced multichannel switcher). THAT is the end I will pull....duh!! Got the paracord, will report back.

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ted_b

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jul 13, 2021 (Edited)

Well, it turns out that Jeff and Glenn were right; the TRS ends are too long (for a bend or two) and the XLR ends are too fat...and I stupidly picked 1" smurf tubing instead of something larger. I have a simple back up plan for the long opposite corner of the room (along the baseboard) but the shorter left back corner (across a door opening) may need to hide under an area rug, etc. Unless...I am going to be asking neighbors if any of them are good at soldering. The TRS end has a jacket housing that screws off, and the solder points are pretty accessible. But that's way above my pay grade!

Edit: Or I could buy a pair of these solderless screw on TRS plugs. Not sure how good they are. This is for serious multichannel listening (exaSound s88 to Coleman switcher to my surround left and right Aerial LR5s).

Amazon.com: 1/4 Inch TRS Screw Terminal Plug, Ancable 2-Pack 6.35mm Stereo Male Plug to Solderless Screw Terminal Block : Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

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ted_b

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jul 21, 2021

Although I ordered the Amazon screw-ons as backup I tried going TRS-first again, this time with the shell removed. The more flexible head allowed for better turns and I was finally succesful. Yeah! Thanks for all the help folks.

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RShlansky

· #10 · Jul 21, 2021

Not to torture you, but the professional soldering that is done for XLRs is very simple and a novice could handle and would be just as "professional". There is no magic here. There are three wires that are already tinned to be soldered after you desolder. The hardest part is keeping the pin assignments. Now that you took off the shell, all of the pulling stress has been transferred to the solder joint and pin insertion, rather than the wire cable clamp asembly. I hope that you do not have problems with those solder joints. Ugh, sorry for my 2 cents. Also, there is lube specifically made for pulling wires that does not damage the wire. Usually used for pulling wire in conduit for electric service. I know that you accomplished the pull, fingers crossed.

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squared80

· #11 · Jul 21, 2021

ted_b said:
Well, it turns out that Jeff and Glenn were right; the TRS ends are too long (for a bend or two) and the XLR ends are too fat...and I stupidly picked 1" smurf tubing instead of something larger.

I'm sure you'll figure it out. I also was going to buy the 1" stuff, but I read the entirety of "What I Would Do Differently Next Time" and that same issue came up quite a bit, so I went with the 2".

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ted_b

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jul 21, 2021

RShlansky said:
Now that you took off the shell, all of the pulling stress has been transferred to the solder joint and pin insertion, rather than the wire cable clamp asembly. I hope that you do not have problems with those solder joints.

Thanks. That is my only worry at this point, and I have two backups.....your optimistic post...and the Amazon screw terminals.

I figured at least the wire is pulled, and I'll have decent things to work with if I decide to desolder. Thanks again.
Ted

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RShlansky

· #13 · Jul 21, 2021

Sounds good, Just as an FYI, I had the same issue when I had to pull for my 4 atmos channels. You can buy the highest grade Neutrik connectors and Canare wire in different colors with labels for pennies compared to professionally soldered cables. There are a a bunch of youTube videos for how to untwist and solder the Canare wire that made it simple

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ted_b

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jul 22, 2021

Yes, thanks. All other wire pulled successfully (HDMI, Atmos pairs, etc). I will test the solder joints on the left rear TRS once all equipment is set up, then think about getting educated via YouTube on proper soldering if I need to go that route. You guys are great, thanks.

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