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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Edited 4.22.09

Before


Looking Toward the Front Wall





After









Audio

Triad Inwall Gold/6 LCR

Triad Inwall Gold/4 Surrounds (sides)

Triad Inwall Silver/4 Surrounds (rears)

Triad Inroom Gold Powersub w/RackAmp500 (2x)

Triad OmniRound6 (playroom ceiling speakers-2x)

Video

JVC DLA-RS20

Panamorph A480KIT

Chief RPA-233 Ceiling Mount

SmX AT Proline 130" wide 2.35:1

Samsung 46" A650 (playroom)

Monoprice tilt/swivel mount/3724 (playroom)

Electronics

Marantz AV8003

B&K Ref200.7S2

Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray Player (upgrade from Panny BD55 on 8.23.09)

Marantz IS 201 IPOD Dock (added on 8.23.09)

Insignia NS-R2000 200w 2ch (for playroom speakers)

Accessories

8 Berkline 078s-grade 4 leather

Middle Atlantic Slim 5 Rack BXBTB5

URC MX-980

URC MX-350 (playroom)

URC Base Station MRF-350

Panamax M5300PM Power Conditioner

Lutron dimmers controlled via URC

Monoprice HDMI splitter/3049

Monoprice HDMI cables

__________________






Ok guys, here are the details:


-14x20 dedicated room (though can extend to 14 x 30) in basement (yet to be finished) mainly for movies

-steel column right smack in the middle at 16', 2 other columns right around 20' that can be hidden in the back wall or keep them and extend room to 30

-seating will be 8 Berklines, front row IOIOOIOI, second row on a riser with IOIOI pole IOIOI


Dealer Equipment Suggestions (though not purchased yet)

Sharp XV-Z20000

Stewart 100" fixed

Marantz SR 8002

Pioneer Elite BDP-95HD

B&W 804S-fronts

B&W HTM3S-center

B&W CWM800-4 in walls

C&W ASW825-sub

Monster HTS 5100


My questions are:


1) Many have suggested going up to 110". I'm not sure whether the Sharp will allow that since I have to hang right in front of the column. I think throw distance is at least 13.5'.

2) Others have suggested JVC RS2 instead of the Sharp. Very different technologies. I have read the reviews, some that compare even, but any comments appreciated.

3) Better acoustically to have 14x20 or 14x30?

4) Dealer suggested Control 4 remote but I really can't see paying just under a grand for a remote. Seems like a complete waste of $. Thoughts?


Any comments or even general thoughts appreciated. I will post pictures of the development once we actually choose a GC!
 
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Well, the product page for your projector is here:

http://www.sharpusa.com/products/ModelLanding/0,1058,1771,00.html


It looks like they recommend a throw distance between 13' 5" - 18' 2" for a 100 inch screen so you would be in a good sweet spot if you kept the room at 14x20. I suspect you might have to ceiling mount the projector right in front of the pole at 16', but you'd want to work that out with the GC or whoever is helping you design the space. One of the best things you can do is go find a local A/V or big box store that has a 120inch screen somewhere (or a friend that might have one) so you can see if the size difference is important to you.


Here's a room size calculator that might help you as well with the size and dimensions you want...

http://www.cinemasource.com/articles...des/modes.html
 
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Just a heads up not to get taken by expensive cable snake oil salesman.


You should be able buy ALL the speaker wiring and interconnect cabling for $300 or so. Get familiar with monoprice cable prices.


Also If you are paying MSRP for Projector, Screen, and Electronics you are leaving a lot of your money on the table.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I do realize that we are definitely paying a premium by choosing to go to a dealer. While we're not paying MSRP, I can still certainly get much better pricing via online vendors. However, I need someone to do all the installing, wiring, calibrating, etc so I just chalk up the extra cost to having to go that route.


Our wiring estimate was 1,800 - 2,300 so according to your estimate we're getting taken to the bank.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by queendvd2 /forum/post/13136285


Our wiring estimate was 1,800 - 2,300 so according to your estimate we're getting taken to the bank.

It is hard to know what they have included and everyone needs to send their kids to college, you are just helping.


If this is new construction and just the one room, HT wiring (excluding electrical) is 1/2 day job before the walls are closed in plus cost of materials and another day when all the equipment is installed and everything is hooked up.


Make sure they are putting in a big conduit from the equipment stack to the projector location to facilitate any future change out of cables.


You should realize that this forum is most often frequented by the DIY enthusiast who do their own wiring and a lot of the construction themselves. If this is a "checkbook only" project you will pay a premium but have more time for other things or for earning the money to pay for the project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's just for the hardware. Labor is 100/hour...sigh. Unfortunately, the DIY route is not an option as I lack the knowledge/time and my husband is not the handy type either. But a home theater is what I have wanted for years. Now that I've committed by buying theater chairs there's no turning back



By the way BIG, awesome theater. I checked out your thread and already got some ideas from your pics. It seems like everyone just creates their own HT threads. Is there one sole thread that just has pictures of everyone's final product?
 

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Well I see you got in on the power buy so that is one good buying decision.


here is a good thread to get pointed in the right direction it's the master "show me your" thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=978755


Also have you thought at all about soundproofing and acoustical treatments so that the coin you are going to be spending on sound will sound great and SAY IN THE ROOM?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/13138306


Well I see you got in on the power buy so that is one good buying decision.


here is a good thread to get pointed in the right direction it's the master "show me your" thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=978755


Also have you thought at all about soundproofing and acoustical treatments so that the coin you are going to be spending on sound will sound great and SAY IN THE ROOM?

Yes, actually I did momentarily think about special soundproofing treatments and just figured it would really jack up the costs of the room. Already, the equipment/install cost is way over what I had estimated. But I will take a peek at some threads to educate myself some more. As everyone is well aware, it's tough to draw the line in the sand of when to stop because obviously this can get pretty crazy.


What height did you use for your riser?
 

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Mine happens to be 7 inches but it should be a tad higher.


To calculate the riser height you can use the formulas in this thread. Where you plan on hanging the screen and the size of the screen makes a difference.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=505237
 

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As for screen size I have 100 and it's one of the first things I'm going to change. When viewing DVD movies in the 2:35 format the image is too small.


It might be worth your while to take the time to read the "what I would do different thread" to learn from all our mistakes:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=855958
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, I think if the projector can facilitate, I will go with the 110".


I did read several pages of the what I would do differently. I plan to read more when I have more time on my hands. Definitely have learned a lot already by reading through some.


By the way, just showed my mom your theater and she was like WOW! Now that's a great kitchen/theater!


Do you think I'd be better off with 14x20 (recall I have a steel column right smack in the middle at 16') or with a 14x30 (but will have 2 additional columns left and right after the second row that would have been hidden in the 14x20) and throw in something else like a small bar-lilke area. Acoustically, does it make a big difference?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by queendvd2 /forum/post/13139814


Do you think I'd be better off with 14x20 (recall I have a steel column right smack in the middle at 16') or with a 14x30 (but will have 2 additional columns left and right after the second row that would have been hidden in the 14x20) and throw in something else like a small bar-lilke area. Acoustically, does it make a big difference?

Thanks for the kind words. I need to point out that my 7 main speakers in the 7.3 system cost less than one of your B&W 804S's. I'm just jealous.


I would like to see a floor plan of the whole basement before I would comment on whether it makes sense to add more space at the back. You also have to ask yourself how often will you use that extra seating and what do you give up to get the space. Having poles in the middle of a room is a real negative and might take points away from a future valuation.


As for acoustics that is beyond my capability to comment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok, let's see how this goes. Here are a few pictures of my basement. Sorry about the resolution and awful composition. I had to keep cropping the original images in order to meet upload specs. The red steel pole is the pole at 16'. The cut-out straight ahead is where the fixed screen will be placed. The second photo shows the view looking at the HT from the side. The second furthest red pole is the one that will be right smack in the middle of my theater. The wooden poles on the left (near the burner/heater) are right at the 20' where I can either make a back wall or extend to 30'.


The next two images are my crude attempt at a floor layout (cut in two pieces to again meet upload spec requirements). The square boxes are my chairs. The 'S' means steel pole and 'W' means wood pole.


The remainder of my basement will just be an open (albeit pole-challenged) play area for my kids and a full bath.



 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I also neglected to mention that after I re-sketched my floorplan it dawned on me that extending out to 30' may not even be an option because my second row of Berklines run 145'' (out of 168'') so that only leaves me with 23" not including the steel pole.
 

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hmm lot's of issues.


First just a FYI, you can create a free photobucket account, upload images as is (no downsizing) , copy the ......{/img] link into the body of your post and like magic the photo will pop in.


Looking at what I can see in your photos and sketch it's not clear about how you are providing access to all the mechanical equipment.


Those two wood posts seem inconsistent with the metal beam and lolly columns. I wonder if they were added as an afterthought to cut down on the floor bounce above. If the answer is yes you might be able to move them back or even eliminate with some other measures. How old is this house? What part of the Country?


If you have the time to make a sketch of the entire basement showing how the room fits into the total space that would help us all provide you some feed back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have a full sketch but again the space limitations crippled me. Have to look into that photobucket. I will scan at work as a pdf so that way you will be able to see in one piece.


Yes, you are correct. Those lolly columns were indeed put in after the fact due to floor bounce. Even though the original owners put them in I'm very reticent to remove them because the floor span is quite long. In some places we can probably rearrange some but those in the HT space likely will stay. I'd rather not have the bounce on the main floor.


I wasn't sure where to place all the AV equipment-whether to create an in-wall (back) shelf space or just store somewhere in a closet. I have to keep around 18" open-air on the side for my burner/heater/oil tank/electrical box so I have some space there too.
 

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Some more thoughts and questions.


For me the most logical place to put your equipment would be either a bump out rack or closet along the heater wall, near the first row. But it's not clear how you are providing access to the equipment (Boiler, Hot water, Tank) . Building codes generally require so many inches of space in front and to the side of the equipment for maintenance purposes and a pathway large enough to remove and replace the largest piece of equipment. I'm not sure if the oil tank requires a pathway.


The back would work but is more inconvenient.


Now some questions. How are you planning on cooling and heating this room. Looks like you have hot water heating. Don't see any AC. It's not uncommon for a theater room to need cooling when it is full of people and the projector is throwing off heat while the rest of the house needs heating.


You will also need some ventilation for your equipment if it is in a closet.


Will look for your floor plan later today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
We will have a closet by the electrical panel (facing theater screen-door will be on the left side). Access to the burner/heater/oil tank will be via a double door in the back. Don't worry, we're leaving plenty of clearance (don't remember exact specs but enough to get oil tank out if necessary) to access and get at appliances.


We have both hot water heater (will create another zone for the basement) and central air. To be honest, I did not think I would need to create an a/c zone for the basement. Is that a big mistake? Does the projector actually give off that much heat?


Ok, hopefully the pdf attachments give a much better picture than my earlier cropped up jpgs. Again, the floorplan is my crude mock-up. Nothing is really to scale. The total basement space runs approximately 1,500 sq. ft, with the theater taking up about one-third of the total space. Thanks.

 

Floor Plan.pdf 30.23828125k . file

 

Basement Pic (Side view).pdf 68.87109375k . file

 

Basement Pic (Potential Screen View).pdf 21.501953125k . file

 

Basement Pic (Facing Stairwell).pdf 65.484375k . file

 

Basement Pic (Facing Stairwell # 2).pdf 74.3369140625k . file
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm not so sure the bump out on the side (where the appliances are) would work because I would be worried about clearance for my oil tank. Possibly we could have it right near our electrical panel (which we will have a closet door) which is to the left of the screen. Maybe a movable rack hidden inside the passage way by the circuit board? Do you think that would work?
 

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Near the breaker panel could work.



How big a theater could you fit in if the screen wall was where the oil tank is. I'm sure you thought about different scenarios, I'm just double checking all your options for avoiding a metal support pole in the theater.


Also in the last picture, just so you know, there are other options available to stiffen that floor and you could remove those 3 wood columns if you wanted to put the theater there.


If you want, and you have a chance measure the size (height) of those floor joists, are they 12's (11.5) or what, measure the span without that after thought of that mid span support, and measure the spacing between joist. I will look up the engineering recommendations in a reference table to see what you are dealing with.
 
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