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With the help of some of the experts on this board I bought a Sony 34hs420 a few months ago. I have been very pleased with it...I spend most of my time playing X-Box and watching SD and HD programming.


I got the feeling a couple of weeks ago that my picture settings could be improved, so I ordered the Avia calibration disc.


I went through all the test patterns, but one test in particular worried me. The brightness test consisted of a half gray/half black screen with faint white bars moving back and forth on the black side. The idea is to adjust the brightness to a point where the left moving bar is invisible and the right moving bar is just barely visible.


I completed this test successfully, but it required me to turn my brightness up to about 85% or so. Is this a problem? I love this tv, so I really don't want to burn my tube out. The picture on the screen definitely looks better now, but could it be too bright for the tv to handle?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kurtz2188
With the help of some of the experts on this board I bought a Sony 34hs420 a few months ago. I have been very pleased with it...I spend most of my time playing X-Box and watching SD and HD programming.


I got the feeling a couple of weeks ago that my picture settings could be improved, so I ordered the Avia calibration disc.


I went through all the test patterns, but one test in particular worried me. The brightness test consisted of a half gray/half black screen with faint white bars moving back and forth on the black side. The idea is to adjust the brightness to a point where the left moving bar is invisible and the right moving bar is just barely visible.


I completed this test successfully, but it required me to turn my brightness up to about 85% or so. Is this a problem? I love this tv, so I really don't want to burn my tube out. The picture on the screen definitely looks better now, but could it be too bright for the tv to handle?
I have the same set and my adjustments with the calibration disc brought the same results for brightness. I believe my brightness came to about 44 clicks or around 68%. I too was concerned about this, but I was comparing these results to a previous Samsung set that required only 50% on the brightness setting. I thought for sure I was doing something wrong.


Unless I'm mistaken, setting Contrast (Picture) too high is what will shorten the life of your tube. Brightness is actually Black Level, or how bright (light) you are setting black to be. Contrast (Picture) is white level and overdoing it can be detrimental to your set.


I did find that when I calibrated my set against the INHD1 Saturday morning test patterns, my Brightness dropped down a bit. But this was a different source. In some way, your Brightness setting is actually against the DVD player, not the tv.


Maybe the more experienced guys could chime in here, but I believe I've got this pretty straight.


No Worries! ;)
 

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There's a service menu fix for this, and it's not too hard too, to do.


To enter the service menu press "DISPLAY" "5" "VOLUME+" then "POWER"

To navigate the service menu use the 1 and 4 keys, to change values use the 3 and 6 keys.To save your setting once you have changed it press "MUTING" then "ENTER" to save the new setting,the words WRITE will be displayed in RED if it got saved.


To exit the service menu just press power and turn the tv off from the remote.


Before you change anything please write your original settings down incase you screw up since it's bound to happen.Just use common sense!


Ok now to the adjustment of black level, first leave the brightness and contrast settings in the middle, and be in PRO mode of coarse.


Then in the service menu there is an adjustment called SBRT, use this to set the black level properly with UBOF which i will explain in a second.


First find your input with the highest black level setting( the one with the smokey blacks that don't have good black level) then using that pluge pattern from AVIA adjust SBRT like the directions tell you on the disc.


Then adjust the other inputs to match using UBOF, you will have to adjust UBOF for each resolution as well on all the inputs since it is resolution dependant.


Then when that's done you can set contrast accordingly in the user menu :)


Hope this helped...
 

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CrocHunter,


what's UBOF? You said its input and also resolution dependant. So does that mean i can adjust the UBOF for this input and save it and it will be safe for this input, and it won't affect the other inputs?
 

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Yes that's correct, you should'nt have to worry since your adjusting UBOF for that input and that resolution, so you don't have to worry about it screwing up the rest of the inputs.


And UBOF is a black level offset, it helps to make every input look the same with black level.
 

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thanks CrocHunter,


One last question. What does UBOF stand for?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterbug
thanks CrocHunter,


One last question. What does UBOF stand for?
Nothing really, the service manual i have just says UBOF.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrocHunter
Nothing really, the service manual i have just says UBOF.
I bet it's Universal Black-level Offset.
 

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Or maybe User black level offset?...


So CrocHunter, where did you get this service manual? Mind to share? :D
 

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I see...so you are using the spreadsheet service manual. I thought you bought the service manual book off sony...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterbug
I see...so you are using the spreadsheet service manual. I thought you bought the service manual book off sony...


I wrote this in another thread, but it's pertinent to you as well.



Quote:
Originally Posted by CrocHunter
Or i can give you my tips to get a great PQ, everrything the ISF guy adjusts in the service menu, i can do my self for free!
Only problem with this, no offense, is: Every TV has its own personality and settings that might work on yours may not work the same on his.


Not to mention the hours, days, and weeks of trial and error vs. having a qualified ISF guy come in, get it done right 100 percent the FIRST TIME, within a matter of hours.

Quote:


Except for convergance and greyscale, that's the only thing i don't touch since you need the proper equipment.


But if you feel like doing the job yourself like i did, you can save yourself a few hundred dollers in the process,pretty much everything i did in the service menu the ISF guy would do anyways so.


Certainly, but as always: Proceed with caution. Write down every default settings before you ever make any changes.


If you aren't technically inclinded and/or can't be bothered in terms of time, please...hire an ISF calibrator and get it done right and fast.
 

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I agree, if you don't feel confident in doing it yourself, then get an ISF calibration and do it right.


I did a lot of reasearch before i jumped into the service menu, so i was prepared.you should to if you decide to do it yourself.
 
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