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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,


I've finished installing all my 1-pc Whisper clips on my ceiling with their hat channels. I then went ahead and framed my first steel I-beam. After everything was done, I've noticed some flex when I pushed on my box (pushing towards the ceiling)



That triggered these 2 questions:


1. When my ceiling will be all done (2 layers of drywall), will I be able to "push" on my ceiling and flex it the same way I'm flexing my box frame?


2. Just to make sure, when you build soffits and boxes like the one above, it is better to fix them on the hat channel and not on the joists, right? Those shouldn't be too heavy...?


Thanks a lot!
 

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You want a little bit of resilience or flex, it's what aids in damping the vibration. Right, the soffit should be fixed to the drywall channel & not to the joists. That will decouple the soffit from the ceiling joists.
 

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You get 75 bonus points for understanding the correct way of boxing around a beam without wasting any headroom.


It is hard to tell from the picture, how did you attach the box frame to the hat channel? It should be able to pass the chin-up test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies guys. BIGmouthinDC, it passed the chin-up test, mind you I'm not 200 lbs. ;-p I'll have to be satisfied with my 165 lbs!


I fixed the 2x3s to the channel using 2" drywall screws as they seem to get a better grip than wood screws.


With the flexing, I now understand why we need to put acoustical caulking around the edges.
 

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That is a great picture! Thank you very much for that, as I may do the same in my house. I have a beam going across the room, too.
 

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You want the flex in the system. This is what decoupling is. This is why we use 25 gauge metal channel, not 20.


Keep in mind that drywall screws will shear very easily (screw head will just twist off) so you might consider using deck screws.
 

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By the way, how far apart is the hat channel? Are you using clips attached to the 2x4s that span the distance between the joists? Is that solely to lessen the room height lost? I was considering doing that, but it seemed like a lot of work for only a slight gain in height. How long would you say it took you to add the 2x4s that span the joists?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctviggen /forum/post/17037586


By the way, how far apart is the hat channel?

For double 5/8" rock, channel is placed 24" apart. For triple, we move to 16" spacing.


Are you using clips attached to the 2x4s that span the distance between the joists? Is that solely to lessen the room height lost?

Others can chime in, but generally the channel is running perpendicular to the joists. When it's run parallel, it's generally a preservation of height issue.
There's not a lot of height preserved, but when you're fighting for every 1/4"...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
And to add to Ted's reply, I think it took me twice the time to install the 2x4s and the clips versus only the clips. As Ted said, you are not saving a whole lot, but I wasn't in a rush so I told myself "why not...".
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White /forum/post/17034485


Keep in mind that drywall screws will shear very easily (screw head will just twist off) so you might consider using deck screws.

Ted, are you suggesting deck screws for the soffits only, or for both soffits and drywall?


Thanks.
 

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Sorry... Deck screws (or similar) for the framing elements. Use standard fine thread drywall screws for any drywall hanging
 
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