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Originally Posted by jmhc /forum/post/18182294
Well in my case my apartment has a common 6" concrete block wall (plastered and painted in both sides) with my neighbors so I'm planning to add a separate layer of drywal to this walll, I was considering using QuietRock 516 or 525 but still not sure if they worth the extra $$$.
Any suggestions on this matter??
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Originally Posted by Leifashley27 /forum/post/18182311
You're adding a wall to an apartment?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmhc /forum/post/18182294
I was considering using QuietRock 516 or 525 but still not sure if they worth the extra $$$.
Any suggestions on this matter??
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/18182439
I think the question is do you own or rent. When people say apartment we normally think rental, Condo we think owned. If you build this stud wall be sure it is separated from the concrete wall by at least a 1/2 inch. That way you isolate any vibrations.
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/18182472
Using Quietrock or double drywall with Green Glue will both aid in reducing sound transfer. You should evaluate the overall cost of both systems and your ability work with the products.
Doing just the walls without addressing the floors, ceilings, and other issues may result in disappointing results.
Maybe there is a Link somewhere of a comparison of the two approaches.
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Originally Posted by jmhc /forum/post/18182704
Yes I own it, what I'm planning to do is to use 2x2 wood or metal studs and add a layer of drywall or Quiet Rock, use Green Glue between studs and drywall and then add 2 or 3 inches of fiberglass, about the space i was planning to separate the wall about 1 inch from it.
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I was planning to insolate floor and ceiling too, but since they are made of solid concrete (about 8 inch) I guess don't need that much work on them, or do I??
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Now here is where I'm undecided, Quiet Rock is more expensive than normal drywall, even the lowest models, so what I'm trying to know is if a single layer of Quiet Rock 516 or 510 does a much better job than a single layer of 5/8 drywall that they cost 300% or more per sheet??.
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Originally Posted by In2Photos /forum/post/18183015
Insulate or isolate? If you are trying to isolate then you need to work on a solution for all parts of the room, including the ceiling and floor.
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Originally Posted by Gertjan /forum/post/18183265
I found this site to be an educational read on this subject. From what i can tell, the things you are planning to do seem to not be in line with what they say is needed to get good sound isolation. Which leads me to believe you have a decent chance that the results of your plans and efforts will be disappointing / sub-optimal.
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Originally Posted by Cathan /forum/post/18184092
Gertjan - Ted, who has been responding to the OP question, runs that company.Just thought you should know.![]()
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gertjan /forum/post/18183265
I found this site to be an educational read on this subject. From what i can tell, the things you are planning to do seem to not be in line with what they say is needed to get good sound isolation. Which leads me to believe you have a decent chance that the results of your plans and efforts will be disappointing / sub-optimal.
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Originally Posted by Ted White /forum/post/18188361
You're on the right track.
#1. If that air cavity could be deeper, that would shift the resonance point down a bit more. Better low frequency performance.
#2. Look at double 5/8" drywall. Mass is a big deal.
#3. 2x4 studs would be more stable and make for a higher performance deeper air cavity. Attach them 16" on center.