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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone the more I listen to the Marty Cubes the better I like them. Now the question the urge to build has struck again but due to space limitations I am looking for something smaller to use for midbass and nearfield ( from what others have wrote that seems pretty neat ) I am not interested in something large due to the space I have in fact I was hoping to use a couple of 12's in a smaller box. I was also thinking for power I would use the nu1000 or the DSP version but that leads to another question. Most of the flatpacks I have seen in PE or DIYSG are sealed and from what I remember it is not a very good idea to have both ported and sealed in the same room? Like I said I am not looking for anything that gets down low but I am looking for a good strong midbass. All of my separates are 2-way with the mid range of 6.5". I thought with a good midbass driver it could bridge the gap between the 2 18's and the bookshelf speakers. Any ideas? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Was not sure which to write down so I put them both. Thanks for the thread I will be reading it.
 

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Okay that was interesting but could some one explain "nearfield" I like the idea of a MBM but due to the way my room is set up I cannot put the MBM underneath the mains. I might be more interested in the nearfield the way my subs are placed and maybe it was by pure luck one of the subs is facing into the side of my sofa (it is pretty much being used as an end table,the fun part when playing a good movie as WOTW or EOT and you are sitting next to the sub you feel some serious rumble. I was thinking of maybe using the Infinity 12's on each side of the MLP to get the same effect. So that is my thought so now can someone explain nearfield ( I hope I am at least in the ball park.)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A good thread on nearfield (see dominguez1's explanation in post 8):
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...4233-how-near-near-near-field-subwoofers.html
Okay that has helped now the bigger question since you have the Infinity's what would be your opinion on using them as near field? I have just enough room on each side of where the MLP is for one I was going to use the 1000dsp for them. Here is one more question I have to ask since the Marty Cubes are vented do the Infinity's have to be ported as well?
 

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Okay that has helped now the bigger question since you have the Infinity's what would be your opinion on using them as near field? I have just enough room on each side of where the MLP is for one I was going to use the 1000dsp for them.
I'm not using mine nearfield but I have plenty of tactile response from my 1260, most likely due to the fact that my "HT" is our living room with a suspended floor (over the basement) - Shakes most of the house. I suspect a small sealed cabinet would cause a lot less shake, especially on a slab.
Here's an extreme use of the 1260s in nearfield configuration:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1917921-16-x-12-sealed-sub-cabinet.html

nwf477 said:
Here is one more question I have to ask since the Marty Cubes are vented do the Infinity's have to be ported as well?
No, you can mix ported and sealed. I haven't done it myself so I don't know how big a deal it is to get them integrated but I'm sure there are plenty of threads with info.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you that was a big help now that I know what to build however the extreme use of 16 is not quite what I had in mind. For what I want 2 would be perfect my living room is also my HT depending on what I have playing everything shakes it almost feels as if the room is breathing? I have read about the butt kickers but that is not for me and I think the 2 Infinity 12's will do the job nicely.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If I had more room 18's would be great. If I had the room full marty's would be even better as it stands I have limited space and considering where I want to put them 12's will have to do.I am sure I will be able to hear them but I am looking for a little more effect and I think they will do okay. I keep thinking about your set-up, compared to mine is almost like comparing an am radio to a concert.
 

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I'm not sure how much of a tactile effect 2x 12's will have.

I will 2nd bass's suggestion of putting the sub against the back of your skull.

I get lots of shaking, sometimes it feels like someone kicking the couch. BUT, I have the subs 1 inch behind the couch and only 6 inches from my head. Most of the tactile effect goes away after I am 2 feet away. I think that 1/2 of the cone diameter is a pretty good approximation of how far the near field extends. That works out to 2 feet for my array and would be 6 inches for your single 12's. I would try to get them right against the back of the couch firing into your back if possible.

Is cost an issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Okay I took a few pictures of my set-up not as elaborate as some but to me it sounds great. The space that I have is very limited but where I sit on the left I have 20 x 12 x 17 on the right I have more space but based on what I have read and the comments here near field has to be withing 2-3ft max. I am considering this for a summer project I am also thinking of adding a second smaller system in my sunroom in which case the smaller enclosure would be perfect.
The first picture shows where I sit, this is where I was thinking of adding however a drawback to this spot I have a vent that I do not want to block. I am sure there are better places to put my speakers but for now it suits me. The last picture shows the measurement of both subs combined there is no smoothing or use of an eq to achieve it. A side note it was a royal pain in the butt to move the subs around to find a good spot so they are staying put.
 

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some thoughts, perhaps repetetive...

Frequencies above 80Hz start to become directional, so you really can't place midbass modules anywhere but at the existing speaker locations.

You'd be better served by a speaker upgrade than the kind of midbass modules you discuss, but if what you have gets loud enough... How does your FR look extended into the midbass?

The single most significant thing you can do to improve sound is move your MLP out from the wall. The couch has a thick back, but another foot will help, 2 feet would be ideal.

The next most significant thing is moving the rear speakers as far from the MLP as the room allows - I'd go high, so they aimed over the couch and hard localize. My 7.1 HT has front wide speakers, and no rears, FWIW.

Same with the surrounds. It's important to be on-axis for the mains, not so much surrounds, unless you listen to multichannel music (SACD) or use "all speaker stereo" mode where significant power and program can be sent to surrounds. In movies, that's rarely true. If you don't have the space for surrounds integrate well in the room (so they disappear), you sometimes have to get creative to prevent them from intruding.

Finally, if you're determined to build something visceral, make it a coffee table sub, aimed right at you. Can't get much more near field...

HAve fun,
Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Lots of input but John I am not going to put mains where the TV is I just got the entertainment center maybe 2 months ago. Auger if I had to do it over again that would be a good idea but considering all the wires are run underneath the house that is not going to happen.This leaves Frank, I like your ideas I am planning on upgrading my front bookshelf spkrs with the Formula series Bic FH65? the current Bic are going to the Surround back and I was going to get another pair for the surround. I will try the loveseat move one foot will not hurt anything but as far as moving the surrounds how high and do they need to angled towards the MLP or can the fire straight out? Like I said it is not as good as most people but compared to what I have had in the past major improvement. I will try Frank's idea but need to know how high.
Norman
 

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another option is to get a pro audio woofer and place it under that speaker on the wall.

use the avr to cross all the bass as high as it can (probably 150-200hz or so).
then use your inuke dsp to split the upper bass 60-150hz or so to your MBM and run the rest to your cubes.
the problem here is the low sensitivity of the mains. 6.5" drivers, just aren't going to hit the midbass very hard.
the p.a. woofer BTH mentioned in a shallow sealed cab would belt out a whole lot of bass, particularly when powered by a pro amp (and not just the AVR).


normally, i don't suggest mbm because they are more difficult to integrate than just getting some high sensitivity mains, but since that doesn't seem to be an option here, well...you gotta do what you gotta do. :)


 

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here is an example:

max spl of two 6 inch drivers vs 1 18 inch (in a small 3 cubic foot sealed cab).

the 18 has 4-5 db more sensitivity and can take 5 times or more power, so you end up with a midbass slaughter vs. a midbass whimper. not everybody needs a slaughter of course, just trying to illustrate the difference in output if that is what you seek.


 

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