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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm building a theater room in a my new construction house that is completely light controlled (although I prefer to have sconces on very low rather than pitch dark). I had the drywall guys leave the screen wall flat-textured instead of hand-textured so I could paint the screen on, if I go that route.


The screen wall is 12' across and vaulted from (guessing) around 7' up to 10'. I was planning on around 110" diag screen (16x9) which would leave around 2' on each side, but lately have been thinking I may make a little wider for 2.35 and masking when doing 16x9. Since I just started thinking about this, I'm not sure how much wider I'd need it for that, maybe 130" diag?


Total length is 21', but the back 4' is walled off with an opening for a counter and barstools - so 17' actually in the main theater area.


I'm working on colors, trying to optimize with colors already being used in the house (to minimize costs in color changes) - Brown, dark red, green, etc, but those will be a satin type finish, not flat - Is Flat essential?


Projector will be ~$1000 1080P, like the HD20, etc.


I was planning on painting a screen, but there are so many different directions. Silver - of some formula on this forum? Should I paint directly onto the wall or would painting on a board or laminate of some type be better?. Will this look as good as some of the other screen DIY methods I am reading about?


I have more questions than answers right now, I'm just looking for a little advice/direction.


Thank you!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sooner_luvr /forum/post/18122610


I'm building a theater room in a my new construction house that is completely light controlled (although I prefer to have sconces on very low rather than pitch dark). I had the drywall guys leave the screen wall flat-textured instead of hand-textured so I could paint the screen on, if I go that route.

Welcome! And thanks for coming by to ask all these questions!


Quote:
The screen wall is 12' across and vaulted from (guessing) around 7' up to 10'. I was planning on around 110" diag screen (16x9) which would leave around 2' on each side, but lately have been thinking I may make a little wider for 2.35 and masking when doing 16x9. Since I just started thinking about this, I'm not sure how much wider I'd need it for that, maybe 130" diag?

A "Scope' screen that is 130" wide and 54" tall is 141" diagonal. That's "Imax'in it" out. Of your choice in PJ is a good one, thats very doable under the right circumstances.


Going "Scope" is all about Width & Height. If one wants to only mask "Width" and yet still wants a "tall" image w/16:9, then the 'Scoped Screen area must be very wide indeed. This will present a few issues with the selection of PJ you have below.......,more on that development later.

Quote:
Total length is 21', but the back 4' is walled off with an opening for a counter and barstools - so 17' actually in the main theater area.

Hmmmm......, when I'm faced with such a room I often try to see/convince the owner to place the Screen on the Wider wall.


Here's a few things to take into account.
  • At 7' high where the wall pitches up & out into the ceiling, unless you are planning to build a substantial (8" tall) Platform Riser for rear seating, the image will be too low down on the wall for those in the rear to watch unobstructed through the heads of the front Row attendees.
  • If your considering only one Row, placing such against the other "long Wall' will give you about 11' viewing distance
  • Seating distance to Screen size wise, with 12' width available, you really can only consider using an area about 9' across for your Screen.(108")
  • Using the 10' side wall you will have the potential to have the top edge of the "Scope" screen area be at 7'. Ya cannot do that on that 12' end wall.

Quote:
I'm working on colors, trying to optimize with colors already being used in the house (to minimize costs in color changes) - Brown, dark red, green, etc, but those will be a satin type finish, not flat - Is Flat essential?

Are those "costs" Economic or Social (Inter-marital)? Really, deciding to paint one room using either different colors or sheens than found elsewhere isn't going to bust a hole in the Finishing budget. You have to buy the Bases anyway, and Tinting those Bases is not (...or certainly should not be...) an additional expense. Simply figure out the amount of paint needed for coverage as per sq. footage and add 15% for a safety net margin.


your gonna need a specific amount of paint to do the Walls/Ceiling...at least 5 gallons for each, so really, where is the difference or matter what you decide "color-wise" of you must but a complete can for a specific area?


And yes, "Flat" is absolutely essential as far as the ceiling goes, and that ceiling should be a Darker shade of something than the adjoining walls. If you still decide to go with the end wall, and the sides of the room close in toward the edges of the Screen, you WILL get considerable reflection off a Satin Wall finish, no matter what the color chosen.


I'm a rainin' on yer Picnic, ain't I? Well it's not over, the big, dark, ugly clouds are just a'startin' to gather.


Quote:
Projector will be ~$1000 1080P, like the HD20, etc.

......and the Thunder rolls. That is a very poor choice for a Scoped Screen setup, one where you are planning/hoping to switch from 2:40:1 to 16:9.


NONE of the sub-1K PJs have Lens Shift, a absolutely essential feature if one is to try to maintain what is called "Constant Height". That's where both the 16:9 image and 2.40:1 images fill the Screen from Top to Bottom, requiring only "side Masking" inward to the edges of the 16:9 area. Without the ability to easily adjust the image orientation, or have it automatically done for you by the PJ, you will be always faced with a 2.40:1 image that is much "shorter" than the 16:9 image, and you'll have those damdable Black/Gray Top & Bottom Bars to deal with.


The HD20 is a DLP with a decided "Lens Offset" (7" to 11" in your screen size range) That PJ has to be mounted in an exact position to be a decent performer. I mean exact. Centered. Squared to the Screen wall. At an EXACT height. All that means once you've set it in place and have it zoned in, you gotta leave it alone. At most all you can do is employ Zoom "manually", but that will serve to increase the area of projected "Bars" as well as the image. Unless you view ONLY Movies in wide-screen format, that will mean constantly adjusting the PJs zoom, and unless you have a Rock Solid Ceiling mounting solution, all that "touchy feely" business with the PJ is gonna displace the PJs orientation and result in a skewered image that needs itself to be re-adjusted.


....now I can hear the Wind stating to Howl.....CRASH! Did a Tree just blow over onto the Roof?


Mebee sew...mebee sew, 'cause you need to spend a little more for a PJ to do what you want to do "Scope" wise. Minimally, about $1300-$1500 for a LCD PJ like a Epson 8100, one with Horizontal and Vertical Lens Shift. The best choice would be a Panny 3000/4000 because those PJ have what is called "lens memory" where once you set the different images to their specific format/position, the PJ will automatically readjust Zoom and Shift to fill the largest area possible when you switch between those Formats. That means the 2:40;1 image will be every bit as Tall as the 16:9 image. you DO want that......don't even think that ya don't!
.


Oh yeah......that's whay you also want to use the 10' wall if possible. On the 7'er, the highest the 16:9 image can be is directly up against the junction of the vertical/sloped wall. That's not gonna work out very well for you at all., and will resign you to having a much smaller image size range to be able to consider. Who wants that...especially will a "Scoped" presentation?

Quote:
I was planning on painting a screen, but there are so many different directions. Silver - of some formula on this forum? Should I paint directly onto the wall or would painting on a board or laminate of some type be better?. Will this look as good as some of the other screen DIY methods I am reading about?

I paint wall all the time to excellent results. But you've already cast the die by having all the other walls "hand Textured".
Not sure why.....as it does nothing to help your case, nor does it lend itself to receiving a "Satin" finish.
Too bad you could not have asked for specific advice earlier on in the "build" process. To mitigate the few detrimental aspects that have been introduced...or are in consideration at present, you are going to have to re-adjust your thinking at least a little, and try to wrap yourself around the reasons why such re-adjustment needs to be made.


Me? Just call me Zeus; "Keeper and Hurler of the Lightning Bolts".

.....or anything else worse that comes to mind when someone spits in your Hot Cocoa.

Quote:
I have more questions than answers right now, I'm just looking for a little advice/direction.


Thank you!

Brother Man, now you have some answers, but as to if they are the ones you want to hear, or if can introduce them remains to be seen. I seldom make such a statement as follows because it can grate on the nerves of some who think it's pretentious to do so (...in the least...) and unfair of me to relate (...in the worst...) but my advice comes from having designed and installed "many" hundreds of Home Theaters over 31 years, and over the last 8 years at least 200+ specific front projection systems. I'm not inclined to introduce issues where none need exist, but just the same I'd always be remiss if I did not relate such existing issues if they will impact the end results.


That's your situation in a Nutshell, so you can make some smooth, creamy Peanut Butter out of it all....or break a Tooth on some forgotten, un-shelled Pistachio of an issue.


Avoid the latter if you can, because no one like a unnecessary trip to the Dentist.



I'm here for the inevitable response and further questions you are bound to have. I'm sure we can get some other opinions up on this Thread too. If not...no worries. Your not drowning here, simply in need of some swimming lessons so you can stop dog paddlin' toward the cataract. As to if you'll need resuscitation after you reconsider the small degree of extra trouble and expense.....well, we'll just have to see......
 

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May I suggest the Mits HC3800. It can do constant height and well handle the screen size you want. I had the HD20 for several days and it has a constant height feature but requires the screen to be 2:1 therefore cutting off the image for both "scope" and 16:9. The Mits allows you to put the 16:9 "inside" the the 2.40:1 image. The sides will be blank/grey of course unless you have a masking system. I toyed with this screen size and decided to go with a 145" BOC screen that would give me a huge 16:9 and still a reasonable 2.40:1 as well. For normal 16:9 HD cable, the huge 16:9 will blow you away. See my thread: 144" BOC Screen...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the comments and help! I'm cerainly in deep...and it feels like it's getting deeper.


Quote:
Hmmmm......, when I'm faced with such a room I often try to see/convince the owner to place the Screen on the Wider wall.

This is not an option here. We do have a 7" riser for the back row and a bar/counter top behind that for drinks, etc. The front row will be more like bean bags and things for the kids to crash on.

Quote:
Are those "costs" Economic or Social (Inter-marital)? Really, deciding to paint one room using either different colors or sheens than found elsewhere isn't going to bust a hole in the Finishing budget.

Not a huge deal, but the painters charge for each color change (as they have to clean out their equipment each time). I can have them do a black or brown flat wall and ceiling, then a contrasting color on the walls.

Quote:
The HD20 is a DLP with a decided "Lens Offset" (7" to 11" in your screen size range) That PJ has to be mounted in an exact position to be a decent performer. I mean exact. Centered. Squared to the Screen wall. At an EXACT height.

I dont like the sound of that. I am planning on mounting from the ceiling.

Quote:
NONE of the sub-1K PJs have Lens Shift, a absolutely essential feature if one is to try to maintain what is called "Constant Height". That's where both the 16:9 image and 2.40:1 images fill the Screen from Top to Bottom, requiring only "side Masking" inward to the edges of the 16:9 area. Without the ability to easily adjust the image orientation, or have it automatically done for you by the PJ, you will be always faced with a 2.40:1 image that is much "shorter" than the 16:9 image, and you'll have those damdable Black/Gray Top & Bottom Bars to deal with.

What my thought was (which is where my lack of knowledge has led me) was that I would make it 2.35:1 wide then mask the sides, but didn't realize the projector issues with constant height. I guess I could always optimize for 16:9 screen, then just mask the top and bottom bars when watching 2.35 for a cleaner look. It would not be constant height. Is this logical and/or doable? ...or am I thinking about this incorrectly?


I REALLY like the sound of the constant height and lens memory, but not sure if the budget allows me to go there yet.


Thanks, again!!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sooner_luvr /forum/post/18162161


Thanks for the comments and help! I'm certainly in deep...and it feels like it's getting deeper.

One could construe that to mean something other than DIY Screen making. As in needing a pair of Waders.


Quote:
Not a huge deal, but the painters charge for each color change (as they have to clean out their equipment each time). I can have them do a black or brown flat wall and ceiling, then a contrasting color on the walls.

Oh what a most excellent idea you have there! A Very Dark Brown Ceiling with Walls of the same color only 2-3 shades lighter. The Ceiling need not be Black, just dark and non reflective. Walls really come into play only when the forward adjoining corners of the Wall/Screen wall place the Screen's edge within 3' If so, then it's a must to use a Flat, "DEEP" shade of a Earth tone or Blue or Gray. By "DEEP" I mean a color shade where the concentration of pigment is very dense. Such colors require a "Deep Base" so when you check a Color card and see a desirable color, all you have to do is ask what Base it requires and you'll know if you zoned in on what you want.


Personally speaking, and from experience, some of the singularly most attractive Theaters I've seen/done used a Flat, mid-dark shade of pure Gray on the walls and a very deep Flat Blue-Gray on the Ceiling. When the Room illuminating lights are up, there is a pleasing "Night Sky" look to the Ceiling and controlled reflectivity from the Walls can actually make them look brighter than they are where directed light is striking them. But when the lights go down, the Walls don't reflect much indirect light at all, and the Ceiling gobbles up virtually everything...making it look absolutely Black.


More concisely said, the depth and shade the Walls & Ceiling need to be is tied to the proximity of those surfaces to the edges of the Screen.


Lighting can be made to work for, not against you by using directional 4" Spot Cans w/Eyeball Lenses.


Directing them toward the Side Walls, and/or directly down into the Seating/Lounging areas will illuminate the room's most important areas but avoid washing the Screen with any really appreciable degree of ambient light.

Quote:
I don't like the sound of that. I am planning on mounting from the ceiling.

One can go too far saying things as "you better not try it...." but in reality, if your lacking experience with such things (...and even I scratch my head and dwell on such installations a long time....) using a LCD w/lens shift is an absolute Godsend. Shoot, early on, that was enough to switch me!



Quote:
What my thought was (which is where my lack of knowledge has led me) was that I would make it 2.35:1 wide then mask the sides, but didn't realize the projector issues with constant height. I guess I could always optimize for 16:9 screen, then just mask the top and bottom bars when watching 2.35 for a cleaner look. It would not be constant height. Is this logical and/or doable? ...or am I thinking about this incorrectly?

Yeah.

Quote:
I REALLY like the sound of the constant height and lens memory, but not sure if the budget allows me to go there yet.


Thanks, again!!

I would approach it this way. Below is a list of criteria I'd consider, and the answers to those posers:
  • Determine the widest possible Screen area you can have in 2.40:1 115" That's 124" Diagonal
  • Taking that measurement, you determine what the Tallest possible Screen you can have in 16:9 48" That's 98" diagonal
  • Chose a "height" for your Screen in the wall. 80"
  • Place the PJ at the closest possible distance (Panny 4000u as example) 13.3" at lens
  • With 14" left on each side of the Screen edge to the wall, you hang Plush Black Velvet Curtains that reside in each corner, and that can Hand pull or Motorized pull inward 16" to mask off the "Side bars" left when switching from 2.40:1 to 16:9

Result:


When viewing 2.40:1 content, a PJ with Lens memory will automatically zoom out the image to 115" wide and place it squared within the Screen's perimeter. Likewise, when switching to 16:9 format, the image will be zoomed inward, but kept at the same height, and all the masking that is required is the far more simpler "Side Curtain" method. Which in my opinion also serves to put a excellent finishing touch on any Theater.


Lastly, those Curtains could be a close match to the Ceiling Color, or any complimenting Color as long as it was dark, and they have no more sheen than any Plush Velvet would have.


Myself, I'd advise Hand Pull curtains on simple Travis Rods w/Flat Wrapped Matching Material Valances. Duplicate those Curtains anywhere else a Curtain/Wall covering is needed and add a few Sconces, and presto, you've got a Classic Theater look, one that is correctly configured for maximum performance and aesthetic appeal.


Now all this is based upon being able to use a PJ like a Panny, but in reality, any PJ that has a appreciable degree of Lens Shift and Zoom can do exactly the same thing, only YOU have to do the re-configuration every time you go from one Format to another. Until PJs like the Panny came along you wouldn't have had any choice, but now you do...on both accounts, performance and expenditure.


Although several PJs can fill the need, one, the Epson 8100 is a great alternative, less expensive than the Panny 4K, Uber-Bright and with great Contrast, and it's Lens Shift/Zoom adjust-ability is made to order for this type of application. It may not be "true CIH", but only because Ya just gotta keep doing "DIY'ing" the adjustments, that's all.


One last temptation, you could expand your Screen out to 54" x 130" (110" [email protected] 16:9 - 140" [email protected] 2.40:1 ) but doing so would require your Walls be not quite, but almost as dark a shade of whatever color chosen for the Ceiling due to the edges of the Screen now being within 6"-7" of those Walls. (Actually, excepting the Sloping Ceiling directly above the Screen, the ceiling being at 10" is working in your Favor by being so distant. That being said, in this case you might get by with darker Walls (...and with that Slope to match...) and a slightly "Lighter Shade" for the Ceiling. But one good thing is that to frame the 2.40;1 image, all you'd have to do is completely retract the Curtains.


Hey....it's all good.
 

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Instead of posting a new thread as I'm doing the same thing (have panny 4k) I want to just get clarity here before I paint. I too want to switch formats back and forth.


"When viewing 2.40:1 content, a PJ with Lens memory will automatically zoom out the image to 115" wide and place it squared within the Screen's perimeter. Likewise, when switching to 16:9 format, the image will be zoomed inward, but kept at the same height, and all the masking that is required is the far more simpler "Side Curtain" method. Which in my opinion also serves to put a excellent finishing touch on any Theater."


So does that mean the height from the projector automatically shift with respect to the bottom of the screen? In other words, just a curtain across the top to cover up the 16:9 format screen paint when viewing 2.40:1 (And curtains on the side to cover up the 2.40:1 when viewing 16:9). So the image always would rest on the bottom boundary of the screen is what I'm really asking.


Also, how bad does it really wash out if no curtains are used (assuming 3 feet of dark flat paint around the rest of the area)? Does the screen "bleed" at the edges if no curtains are placed there?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by frenchee /forum/post/18183294


Instead of posting a new thread as I'm doing the same thing (have panny 4k) I want to just get clarity here before I paint. I too want to switch formats back and forth.


"When viewing 2.40:1 content, a PJ with Lens memory will automatically zoom out the image to 115" wide and place it squared within the Screen's perimeter. Likewise, when switching to 16:9 format, the image will be zoomed inward, but kept at the same height, and all the masking that is required is the far more simpler "Side Curtain" method. Which in my opinion also serves to put a excellent finishing touch on any Theater."


So does that mean the height from the projector automatically shift with respect to the bottom of the screen? In other words, just a curtain across the top to cover up the 16:9 format screen paint when viewing 2.40:1 (And curtains on the side to cover up the 2.40:1 when viewing 16:9). So the image always would rest on the bottom boundary of the screen is what I'm really asking.

The deciding factor is how tall you want/need the 16:9 format image to be. If you can accommodate a wide enough screen to allow a really impressive sized 2.40:1 image, then "centering" a 16:9 image within those preordained confines will not see so "Kissing your Sister" like, size-wise.


To wit, and to repeat;


The maximum possible image height at 16:9 is determined by the Width you select as being maximum for 2.40:1. That is, if you do not want to have to mask the Top or Bottom edges at all.


Let's go through it again, just described slightly differently.


At a given width and height for 2.40:1, if all the available Screen area (width & height) is used, obviously no masking at any point is needed. When switching to 16:9, if a PJ with Lens Memory is used, the maximum height for that format will also be the same height as was used at 2.40:1, with only a percentage of width lost to each side. This is countered by the simple use of Side Curtains.


Obviously, this is accomplished by the PJ automatically zooming inward to reduce the native 16:9 image height to match the Screen's Top and Bottom edges, and making any needed vertical shifting adjustments ...also automatically..


As would be expected, it's the 2.40:1 image that will in fact be composed of less Pixels per sq. inch because it is being produced by a PJ whose native Resolution is 16:9. That means it will actually be producing "Black or Gray" bars at the Top & Bottom. This means your Screen wall must be masked or colored so as to absorb the very weak light that such "Bars" consist of.


When your in 16:9, that is not an issue.

Only when using a Anamorphic Lens can one avoid masking altogether because 16:9 is compressed and stretched to fill the 2.40:1 format. PJs that have a "Stretch" feature perform that function while the Lens does the compression.


All that "Morp-Lens business" cost a bundle. So by doing things the easy way and using a PJ with Lens Memory, you shell out for Side Curtains (...or make "Vertical" masking panels...) and make the Screen as Wide as possible so your 16:9 formatted material will be as "Tall" as your 2.40:1 content, but by being so, not be reduced to a less impressive height/size just so it can fit within the height limitations set by a Screen made to 2.40:1 dimensions.


The Conclusion to all this is realizing that if you make a HUGE 2.40:1 Screen, not only do you get maximum viewing pleasure in that Format, you 16:9 material will still be every bit as tall....just not quite as wide.

Quote:
Originally Posted by frenchee /forum/post/18183294


Also, how bad does it really wash out if no curtains are used (assuming 3 feet of dark flat paint around the rest of the area)? Does the screen "bleed" at the edges if no curtains are placed there?


With most new PJs, the projected Black masking areas surrounding / edging an image are pretty dark, but not "Black" by any means. If your Screen is a Dark Gray solution such as Silver Fire 3.0 or a NG7.5 or under, then your not going to be bothered much...if at all. But if it's a high Gain "White" surface....you might not be too pleased with those results.


Eliminating the potential to EVER see those "almost Black areas" is the surest way to avoid "I wish I had..." syndrome.
 

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MississippiMan,


I too was wondering if you might provide me similar guidance when you have a chance. I've read your replies and respect your opinions.


Thanks.


I have just completed my basement, have a large room to put a projector in 45x22. So I have a lot of flexibility on throw distance and screen size.


I have white textured ceiling tiles, as this seems to be one thing I didn't consider during construction to best support a HT environment. The walls are a flat tan paint. The ceiling is about 7'10".


The room is light controlled, but I tend to watch 60% sports/40% movies. I have been debating a few things:


1) My projector budget is around $2000. I've been debating between the Pan AE4000 and the Epson 8500. I thought I read the Panny would be better for sports, but the Espon is brighter. I watch a lot of sports, but I also have people over for the events and like some lights on. If I went with the Panny, I thought I might need a screen that will maximize brightness.


2) Screen: I've read about the 2.35:1 option. Is this the way to go now - is most material available in this format? Seems like many mask or have curtains so they can cleanly display both the 2:35:1 and 16x9 material.


2a) Has anyone put in a Wilsonart Laminate screen? I was debating between that and painting a screen on the wall... to get me started. If anyone is passionate about purchasing a screen, pls let me know.


3) I'll need to run my HDMI cable about 25 ft. Is this ok or will I lose any quality?


4) Any recommendations on receiver/speakers that I can get for $500-$800.


Thank you!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubfan Lou /forum/post/18209391


MississippiMan,


I too was wondering if you might provide me similar guidance when you have a chance. I've read your replies and respect your opinions.


Thanks.

Hold off there until you read my answers....


Quote:
I have just completed my basement, have a large room to put a projector in 45x22. So I have a lot of flexibility on throw distance and screen size.

You've made my day......and it's already almost 7 pm!

Quote:
I have white textured ceiling tiles, as this seems to be one thing I didn't consider during construction to best support a HT environment. The walls are a flat tan paint. The ceiling is about 7'10".

I'm betting we/you can take care of the "ceiling" issue easy enough.

Quote:
The room is light controlled, but I tend to watch 60% sports/40% movies. I have been debating a few things:


1) My projector budget is around $2000. I've been debating between the Pan AE4000 and the Epson 8500. I thought I read the Panny would be better for sports, but the Espon is brighter. I watch a lot of sports, but I also have people over for the events and like some lights on. If I went with the Panny, I thought I might need a screen that will maximize brightness.

Screen size will factor into the eqaution at least as much as either the PJ chosen or the Screen's make up. It all should be designed to work well with and compliment the attributes of the other/s.


The biggest issue here is the Panny's superior Frame Interpolation. That si what will give you smooth images when watching NASCAR, or when the BBall or Fball or Hockey players are scootin' fast! Never mind Bob Sleds, Luge, Skiing, and T-Shirt Contests.


I'd say the Panny with a 1.2 gain+ Reflective Gray Screen solution will getter 'dun for you.

Quote:
2) Screen: I've read about the 2.35:1 option. Is this the way to go now - is most material available in this format? Seems like many mask or have curtains so they can cleanly display both the 2:35:1 and 16x9 material.

Well you have the Screen Wall width...and Room(sitting) depth going for you, Blacking out the Ceiling Tiles at least 4' out from the Screen wall and to 4' each side of the Screen's edge. Maybe beyond that point the Black Out area could dissolve into a Black/White Checker Board out to the edge of each side into each corner.....that would look cool and address the worst case scenario of your having a big Screen to close to a White Reflective Ceiling.


This example is something that could be considered:


50" x 120" 2.40:1 Screen area w/1.2 Gain minimum ( 130" diag.)

14' Throw producing 16 fl.


50" x 89" 16:9 Screen area (CHI)

14' Throw now produces 22 fl.

Most all Sports for some time will be in 16:9 and that's the Content you want to be brightest anyway.

It's all lookin' gud.


Manual Pull Black velvet Side curtains used to mask out unused 8.5" of Screen


8" Drop from Cielng to Screen Edge. Bottom of Screen @ 26" off Floor


Highly Directional Eyeball spots starting 10' away from the Screen wall. No lights withing that 10' area.


..............Can I come watch?


Quote:
2a) Has anyone put in a Wilsonart Laminate screen? I was debating between that and painting a screen on the wall... to get me started. If anyone is passionate about purchasing a screen, pls let me know.

The size I suggested is right in keeping with using a WA-DW Sheet. But if you want any semblance of Ambient Light performance that retains the deepest possible Contrast, you still will have to paint it. But that too is all gud. Better still, Gatorboard @ 120 x 50". It'll be less expensive, and FAR less prone to damage.

Quote:
3) I'll need to run my HDMI cable about 25 ft. Is this ok or will I lose any quality?

Not with the right one. 1.3b Compliant is good to 40' now.

Quote:
4) Any recommendations on receiver/speakers that I can get for $500-$800.


Thank you!

Even $800.00 for Speakers(...and Sub
) for that size area???? Iffin' ya shop fiendishly on Flea Bay for some used gear...and know EXACTLY what your getting....maybe....perhaps. $500 for a barely sufficient Receiver? Barely so. $800.00 for all of it? You just took the starch right out of that "made my day" business. 'Tis a Dream your dwelling in m'thinks. Oh you can outfit the room with something like a Home Theater In A Box get-up (HTIB) but it will ruin that spectacularly huge image with Small sound. Tiny Sound. Minuscule Sound.


Crappy Sound.



I'll cast my nets out to see what's possible though...and get back with you on that.


$500-$800.00


....he has'ta b'goin' an makin' things hard...............
 

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Thanks for the valuable input. Just a few follow-up thoughts:


1) Given I really want to watch a lot of sports, I'd like to see if I could do a larger 16:9 screen. By not doing the 2.40:1 screen, am I sacrificing viewing quality when watching movies in 16:9 also? I think this decision is what I'm having the toughest time trying to get my arms around.


2) While I like your checkerboard idea, if the better half doesn't go for it, is there another option besides painting the tiles that might also look nice?


3) Curtains - you mention just side curtains - do I need the valances on the top of the screen covering the 8" between ceiling and screen top?


4) I assume with the Gatorboard I would also have to still paint. In your opinion, is the Gatorboard/paint combo superior to just painting the wall?


5) I could probably bump the budget up a little for the speakers,sub, receiver. Maybe $1000?


Thanks for your help!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubfan Lou /forum/post/18216373


Thanks for the valuable input. Just a few follow-up thoughts:


1) Given I really want to watch a lot of sports, I'd like to see if I could do a larger 16:9 screen. By not doing the 2.40:1 screen, am I sacrificing viewing quality when watching movies in 16:9 also? I think this decision is what I'm having the toughest time trying to get my arms around.

No image quality loss should be expected, just your having to deal with the Top & Bottom" masking issue w/2.40:1 content. That is the most difficult type of masking to accomplish.

Quote:
2) While I like your checkerboard idea, if the better half doesn't go for it, is there another option besides painting the tiles that might also look nice?

You could try going with a shade of Gray halfway between the Black and white, or wrap each Tile in Black velvet and detail the Tray strips with Black paint. Short of this ideas all I can suggest is replacing the affected ceiling Tiles with a more suitable Color.

Quote:
3) Curtains - you mention just side curtains - do I need the valances on the top of the screen covering the 8" between ceiling and screen top?

That is a "Decor" oriented decision. It will have no effect on performance or looks when the lights are down. Travis Rods are essentially covered at the Top with the gathered and pleated Curtains..

Quote:
4) I assume with the Gatorboard I would also have to still paint. In your opinion, is the Gatorboard/paint combo superior to just painting the wall?

Only when the Wall itself is less smooth than the Gatorboard

Quote:
5) I could probably bump the budget up a little for the speakers,sub, receiver. Maybe $1000?

Your still being hateful.


Used Gear on Ebay is really your only choice if you want really good performance in that big of space.....especially as far as both the Sub Woofer and Surround imaging is concerned.

Quote:
Thanks for your help!

..that was less hateful.....
 

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Thanks again for the notes Mississippi Man.


Is it necessary to mask 2.40:1 content on a 16x9 screen - are the top and bottom bars going to be a negative?


In painting gatorboard, is there a good how-to as far as type of paint, spray on method or rolling (would assume spray), and number of coats, etc?


What is the preferred frame around the gatorboard - material/size - and mounting method of the entire thing?


At what height will I want to mount the projector?


Thanks again friend!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubfan Lou /forum/post/18229138


Thanks again for the notes Mississippi Man.


Is it necessary to mask 2.40:1 content on a 16x9 screen - are the top and bottom bars going to be a negative?

That depends upon how well your PJ projects the "Mask' or non-content areas. Also the color of your screen will have much to do with it all. To some the presence of unused Screen area not only "grates", it's absolutely deplorable. And if the unused area is seen as a lighter shade of Black, it can become downright disturbing and work against the pleasurable experience because for some, that's all they can focus their attention on.


There are different solutions that depend upon Screen size, Screen format, and the PJ selection. All that must be determined first before you can really determine as to if...and how much you must mask.

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In painting gatorboard, is there a good how-to as far as type of paint, spray on method or rolling (would assume spray), and number of coats, etc?

Gosh......we DO need to start from Scratch with you, eh?


To do that, we/I need to know the following;


PJ

Room Size

Room Color

Lighting (Controlled? Lots of Ambient? )

Seating distance

Desired Screen size.

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What is the preferred frame around the gatorboard - material/size - and mounting method of the entire thing?

Once again, that will depend upon your desired size. The easiest way is to be the GatorBoard cut to a size that is 2.5" larger on all sides than the desired Screen dimension. That way you can spray the entire board, then hang it directly onto the wall with Drywall screws (Coarse Thread - 2"ers) shot through the Board at 1" in from the Edge. Then you can simply make & apply a Black Velvet Trim Ring over the Screw heads and frame the image area with it.

Quote:
At what height will I want to mount the projector?

Again, all the above needs to be answered. We await your comments and answers for our edification.


Quote:
Thanks again friend!

Sawright.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan /forum/post/18233188


That depends upon how well your PJ projects the "Mask' or non-content areas.

actually that should be... it depends upon how well your PJ 'doesn't' project light (or is able to isolate light) from the "Mask" or non-content areas.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by threed123 /forum/post/18145121


May I suggest the Mits HC3800. It can do constant height and well handle the screen size you want. I had the HD20 for several days and it has a constant height feature but requires the screen to be 2:1 therefore cutting off the image for both "scope" and 16:9. The Mits allows you to put the 16:9 "inside" the the 2.40:1 image. The sides will be blank/grey of course unless you have a masking system. I toyed with this screen size and decided to go with a 145" BOC screen that would give me a huge 16:9 and still a reasonable 2.40:1 as well. For normal 16:9 HD cable, the huge 16:9 will blow you away. See my thread: 144" BOC Screen...

Hello "threed123",


Are you saying the Mits 3800 has motorized lens shift memory ?


M-man,

Just wondering how many PJ's have the same feature

"lens memory" as the Pan 3000/4000 ?


John
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubfan Lou /forum/post/18216373


5) I could probably bump the budget up a little for the speakers,sub, receiver. Maybe $1000?

Here ya go if you're still looking:


Yamaha RX-V2500 receiver: fleabay $150 Doesn't have the latest lossless audio formats and you'll have to run your HDMI inputs straight to the PJ. But, boy, does it sound good!


Infinity RS-3 speakers: fleabay or CraigsScarylist $80/pair Great sound from the late 90's. Three pair: $240


FI Audio IB-318 subwoofer driver: $240 new from the factory with shipping. Make your own Infinite Baffle subwoofer. Crisp musical sound and it will rattle your world during movies. Another $100 for parts to build the IB sub.


Kenwood M-1 amp for the sub. fleabay: $70. 160 watts into 4 ohms. Doesn't sound like a lot of power, but you'll be amazed at the punch with the IB-318


Total: $800. Throw in an extra $110 for an EP-1500 amp instead of the M-1 and you'll rattle the house with the sub.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDGTX /forum/post/18785648


Hello "threed123",


Are you saying the Mits 3800 has motorized lens shift memory ?


M-man,

Just wondering how many PJ's have the same feature

"lens memory" as the Pan 3000/4000 ?


John

No, no, I'm talking about the ability to "fake" a superscope screen rather than having an external anamorphic lens. So you can simply have a 2.40:1 screen with a reduced 16:9 image inside of it. That is ideal for those that watch mostly widescreen movies. Other than that, the Mits has a large static offset and a fixed lens with no shift.
 
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