[badata2d]

My electrical book assumes your lights are widely spaced. I have three step lights (110V) that are very close together. Instead of running 14/2 between all the lights, can I just take the three blacks from the lights and connect them to the incoming black in just one connection ?? And then do the same with the whites and grounds. The three lights actually have two black wires and a ground, so I'm assuming I can just designate either black as the hot.


Thanks for any help, all the googles I put out always assume the lights are spread further.

 

[redneckcharlie]

All your connections need to be within the housings. 14/2 is so inexpensive its not worth saving a couple of dollars and doing the install incorrectly, and against code.

 

[BritInVA]

Would need to know what you mean by close but I suspect if wires exit the light enclosure it will need to be Romex

 

[badata2d]

Step lights are probably 6 inches apart. The hardwires that come with the lights are 24 inches long. I put in a "spare" empty box. All three sets of wires, and the feed all will run into this box where they will be joined.


The alternative is to run two 6" 14/2 runs and to install 3 empty boxes to enclose the joins.


I think the first option I gave is obviously easier, but I think its also within code.


The light enclosure is very small, I'm not sure I can even fit the romex feed and wirenuts inside there.

 

[smokinghot]

A pic would of the fixture would really help.


Without seeing how they are put together all I can say is that the wiring from the fixture to the junction box you propose needs to be inwall rated for your plan to be within code.

 

[dk-customs]

What is your objective or real question? Is this a code question or a question of will it work taking one black and treating it as a natural and tie them together, and then tie the other blacks together? The answer to the latter is - yep it will work. With regards to Code - A couple of things to consider and I'm on the side of neckcharlie, BritInVa and smokinghot. All the wires need to be enclosed within Romex or Conduit and all the connections need to be within a UL approved housing. You will also want to buy white electrical tape and wrap one of the black wires (per light) to identity it as a natural. Remember code is just the minimum requirements with regards to safety and most Codes exist because someone else had a bad day.


That said without a picture I'm just guessing. But it doesn't sound like there is anything between the 6 inche space between the lights, so per code you would need a small piece of Romex or conduit between the boxes. Since there is not enough room in the light enclosures for wire nuts then conduit would be a likely candidate.

 

[longtimelurker]

this is bizarre.


do the 24" long leads have the letters THHN/THWN on them?



If so, then it needs to always be in box or conduit.



If not, then i dont know what you have. I am guessing it *could* be low voltage lighting. I have never seen flying leads supplied on a HV application as that is never code (Except for lamps!, lol).



I'm laying 5:2 odds its LV, or made in china. 3:2 its thhn/thwn in flex conduit.


only the pic will tell us for sure!

 

[badata2d]

My thinking was....if I cant connect the lighting leads to the 14/2 in the lighting box, then the lighting leads will be exposed no matter what I do. So in my feable mind, my choice was to run the three lighting leads to three boxes, and then run 14/2 between the 3 boxes OR Run all 3 lights to one box and then just connect them all in the one.


Here are the pics of my riser from the front, top, and then closeups.

 

[DMF]

Well I'm stumped. Are you sure these are intended to set directly into the riser face, or are they supposed to sit in an outer enclosure? Pic of the front of the fixture?



I guess you could do as you suggest, but I wouldn't want to bet it would pass. Why not try wrapping the leads to the connection box in flex conduit?

 

[Glimmie]

Are these UL listed? I don't see anything on that label but the sticker may be somewhere else. In addition that really doesn't look like a legal amout of wiring room inside the fixture. UL has minimum cubic inch requirements for a junction box based on the amount and gauge of wires.


I too think these are intended for low voltage. Just because you can buy a 120v bulb that fits, they may not be safe for high voltage.


Here's what I would do if they are in fact 120v fixtures. Since the leads are so long, attach a piece of 1/2 metal inch flex. There loos to be enough clearence fo rhe flex connector and locknut. Then run the flexes into a junction box and tie to you 14-2 romex. If the flexes will reach ther's no reason to use seperate boxes. One standard 4 inch box should be fine. Don't splice the leads inside the flex to make them longer. You can't splice inside a conduit.


Per code this junction box must be accessable. That means an access panel to get to it or use a "cut-in" box in the riser face with a blank cover.


Also why are you using outdoor boxes shown in the last picture? These are for outdoor use. They are quite expensive $4-5 compared to interior boxes which are under $1 even for metal.

 

[Johnsteph10]

It also looks like you need to use wire protectors if they are passing out of the metal box.

 

[badata2d]

The only thing not shown for the front is a small lovered cover. They are 120V, no doubt. I spoke to the engineer at the company before I ordered them; I had a bunch of questions to make sure they were dimmable, not LED, etc...


I had a leftover box in my misc parts box, that's why its exterior.


There's no inspection since the riser is treated like furniture and not part of the house. I'll do it the right way though and pick up some flex conduit to run to the box.


Thanks all for the help, I thought this would be quicker. I had a pro electrician wire the whole floor, but the cost is so much to have them come back just to do this.

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

I have those lights.


this is the 12v:

this is the 120 volt:

I have the 120v. What I did: there is a single screw holding the reflector and bulb socket to the box, I loosened the screw and pulled the assembly out of the box. I brought the Romex into the box, I trimmed the lamps wires to a much shorter length and used small twister nuts to attach to the Romex . Then you have to strategically bend the Romex and wires so they fit in the back recess of the fixture but I can guarantee that it will fit.


I do not totally remember if I used the Romex securing clamps on the back hole of the fixture but I think I did leaving the bulky part on the outside of the box.

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

OK, so I must really be bored, as it turns out I have a burned out bulb so I took my light apart.


Here is proof. I did use the romex clamp.

 

[badata2d]

BMinDC - you Rock ! Never dawned on me obviously to take the light out to get inside there better. I guess I'm a little gun shy taking things apart given all the AV equipment I could neve get put back together. I know I have the 120V because I ran a single light to see how they worked before I started mounting them all. Thanks for the help.

 

[oman321]

Also, what I and some others did was to mount a single gang metal box to the back of that box to give you all the space you need and then put a blank cover on it.

 

[W00lly]

I also did mine like oman as the the bigger step lights use a standard incandescent slim bulb so there is not alot of room behind the reflector to hook up the leads let alone two or more. here are some pictures of my install.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post11945944

 

[carboranadum]



Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly /forum/post/16848696


I also did mine like oman as the the bigger step lights use a standard incandescent slim bulb so there is not alot of room behind the reflector to hook up the leads let alone two or more. here are some pictures of my install.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post11945944

Really elegant solution!


CJ

 

[Sands_at_Pier147]



Quote:
Originally Posted by badata2d /forum/post/16846966

You need to plug that hole. The lumber behind it doesn't count. The plug seals the box so that heat/sparks don't reach something combustible (like, say, wood).