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Having never owned an RPTV I'm a little unclear on how much movement would constitute requiring convergence calibration for one of these sets. I'm in the rather unique position where I must return an F38310 to CC for exchange with something new, and have basically chosen on either the Hitachi 51S500 or 57S500 as the replacement. However, I'm *also* in the middle of a home renovation and am putting down new oak hardwood in the living room (where the TV will go). So, if I take delivery within the next week or two I'll have to move the set for the floor guys, most likely into the kitchen (same floor). Would this blow the calibration of the set? Would I be better off holding off on delivery until after renovations are complete? The whole thing could take more than 30 days (as I'm flooring more than just my living room and they want to sand and finish all of it at the end). Not sure if I should purchase a special stand in order to save the new hardwood either.


Thanks for any advice.

--Maynard
 

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I would wait, not just for the moving but for the dust problem!

Why have it sitting in the way when it won't be used?

As far as alignment, it shouldn't affect it any AFAIK.
 

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No way to put the 57s500 on a stand as far as I know. I just got mine, separated the halves to install it, and while I did need to do convergence, it looked decent afterwards. If you want to get it, just don't go all out on tweaks with the manual convergence.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by jmaynardg
Would this blow the calibration of the set?
Actually, yes. All CRT sets are affected by their surrounding electromagnetic fields. Even rotating the set a few degrees or moving a few feet will affect calibration. I say wait.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by jmaynardg
Having never owned an RPTV I'm a little unclear on how much movement would constitute requiring convergence calibration for one of these sets. I'm in the rather unique position where I must return an F38310 to CC for exchange with something new, and have basically chosen on either the Hitachi 51S500 or 57S500 as the replacement. However, I'm *also* in the middle of a home renovation and am putting down new oak hardwood in the living room (where the TV will go). So, if I take delivery within the next week or two I'll have to move the set for the floor guys, most likely into the kitchen (same floor). Would this blow the calibration of the set? Would I be better off holding off on delivery until after renovations are complete? The whole thing could take more than 30 days (as I'm flooring more than just my living room and they want to sand and finish all of it at the end). Not sure if I should purchase a special stand in order to save the new hardwood either.


Thanks for any advice.

--Maynard
I would buy it and have it delivered.


Then,


Try this after a month:


Manual Convergence for the Hitachi

1) Receive an NTSC signal.

2) Press Magic Focus to begin magic focus

3) Press magic focus again during the magic focus process to get the ‘stop’ screen

4) While stop screen is up, press STATUS or INFO on the remote control (R/C) to bring you to DCAM mode and the service grid (64 point grid)

5) When you first get in here… I believe red is the selected color by default (it is flashing).

6) To choose other colors to converge, use the following buttons on the R/C:

a) “STATUS†- Green

b) “0†- Red

c) “ANT†– Blue

7) Start from the center of the screen and work your way out on one color at a time. I adjusted red across the whole screen to match green. Then I switched to blue, and adjusted that to green as well. After you adjust blue, you may want to go back and adjust some red again… etc. until the convergence looks good.

(a) Use 4, 6, 2, and 5 on the R/C to move the cursor position(dotted lines).

(b) Use thumb stick to move the convergence point color.

** There have been other posts in here to tape together the color filters found in the Avia DVD to help converge lines more easily. I have used this method, and it works well for adjusting to a greater detail. Basically, you put the red filter next to the green and adjust your red to the green line both horizontally, and then vertically. Then you do the same with the blue next to the green. Some people recommended you should be at normal viewing distance. I did mine from just a few feet back from the set. Maybe my eyes aren’t as good… maybe I just felt like it worked better this way. There are some other posts also recommending using binoculars. I think it’s great that people suggest things to make the process easier… but my girlfriend would think I was insane if she saw me with binoculars on the couch adjusting the convergence. I don’t know… whatever works best I guess.

8) I did not adjust the green at all. I use the green as the guide and did not adjust the location of any green point. This is highly suggested unless you have geometry problems.

9) When going along the lines and adjusting, you may run into the problem of getting an ‘S’ curve on the line. You’ll know if you get there. Basically, no matter what you do to adjust the line to be converged, the middle of the line between the points will not straighten out (it bends between the points). To fix this, the manual recommends going to the (7x5) mode which gives you less points to adjust. I had this problem, and the solution worked. There is also another mode (3x3) which gives you even less points. Basically, if the set looks good, you only fine tune it in (13x9) mode (64 point). If you have serious problems, the grids work as:

3x3 – ‘coarse’

7x5 – ‘medium’

13x9 – ‘fine’

10) To get to each of these patterns use the following on the R/C: (only if you need to)

1. (3x3) Press “STATUS†5 times (only works when DCU is in uncorrected state)

2. (7x5) Press “0†5 times

3. (13x9) Press “ANT†5 times

11) If you adjust the 3x3, then you should go to the 7x5, and then the 13x9. You get the point… depending on where you start, work your way up, and always finish on the 13x9

12) When finishing up the 13x9 mode, to get additional ‘grids’ on the edges of the screen, press the PIP CH button on the remote control while in the digital convergence adjustment mode (DCAM). Fine tune the edge convergence as necessary. To exit, press PIP CH again.

13) When convergence is acceptable, press PIP MODE to write data to ROM memory. ROM WRITE? is displayed to alarm system that ROM will be overwritten with new data. Press the PIP MODE button again to write displayed data to ROM.

14) DATA WRITE TO ROM will take approximately 4 seconds and no picture will be displayed.

15) Green dots will be displayed when operation is completed.

WARNING: YOU MUST DO THE FOLLOWING STEPS TO COMPLETE MAGIC FOCUS INITIALIZATION!!! THERE HAVE BEEN MANY POSTS THAT PEOPLE HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITHOUT DOING THIS STEP BECAUSE THEY LOOSE MAGIC FOCUS!

16) Press MUTE to return to convergence pattern, then confirm again convergence is acceptable.

17) Press PIP MODE and then PIP CH to initialize Magic Focus. The initialize operation starts and several windows appear during this operation. It takes about 30 seconds or less.

18) When green dots appear, initialize operation is finished.

19) Turn power OFF.

21) Wait a few seconds. Turn the TV on, and you should have your normal signal. Press Magic Focus button just to make sure the magic focus still works (and that you did the last few steps properly)
 
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